Silv3rsurf3r's Coyote Build

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Hello everyone, I'm Rob and am finally starting my build. The road to get here has been a long and adventurous one but I finally made it! My order is as follows:

MkIV Complete Kit #9252
Coyote/TKO600
IRS
Powder coated
Full length headers/polished exhaust
Power Steering
Swaybars
17" Halibrand wheel/tire pkg
L&R chrome roll bars

Delivered 8 Jan 2018.







So far only have 2 items left on backorder list (lemans cap and fuel pressure regulator/hoses)
Update: All backordered items delivered weeks ago...

Update: Still trying to figure out how to upload pictures so might take awhile til i can post them...
Update: 7 APR 2018-Finally figured out how to upload and post pics!

[David Hodgkins]

Great speaking with you last night. Here are a few threads to help with pic hosting, and maintaining your thread title as you work the build:

Embedding pics:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...tures-in-posts
Maintaining thread titles:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...tle-Guidelines

Looking forward to following along!

[Silv3rsurf3r]

So finally got some time to work on the car this weekend. After reading the manual(guide) multiple times and reading through quite a few posts my sequence of events has since become murkier. Initially I was going to start with suspension, then brakes, then IRS, then sheet metal, steering, fuel lines and components. But since going through everyones builds and the manual everyone seems to go differently as it applies to order of build. So if anyone can chime in on this I'd greatly appreciate it; that is to say I know there are plenty of DOs in regards the order, however, I'm more interested in the DONTs (such as Dont mount the body to the frame then try to install sheet metal etc...) in other words trying to not step on my own feet and get ahead of myself.

Also- Still cannot get pics to load. I dont know if it matters that I am using a Mac or not, but it seems some of the instructions for posting in here don't line up with how it displays on my computer...UPDATE- figured it out!

Anyways, out to the garage I go to relieve a long week's worth of stress and try and strategically place parts and pieces in a logical order for assembly




Engine/Trans together...

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Ha! Finally got the last entry to post (only took a few weeks) and, think I figured out how to post pics...well at least it puts a link to click on to view them, still working out how to embed them so they show on the thread vs a link. Anyways, should be coming back here more frequent and updating with pics. So far got the F panels, front suspension/brakes and IRS/brakes, and diff installed. Waiting on some parts from Breeze (thanks Mark for the help) so as to install the rack&pinion; until then I guess I will start on the pedal box and fitting, drilling and painting sheet metal and bare metal pieces. Until next time...

F Panels in place


Front Brakes and Suspension..


IRS, Diff, and brakes

[Boydster]

But since going through everyones builds and the manual everyone seems to go differently as it applies to order of build. So if anyone can chime in on this I'd greatly appreciate it;

My guess is that builders assemble according to what they've gotten from F5 (re:backorders can hold up some processes) and according to what mods are being done. I pretty much followed the manual, making a few changes along the way. Sometimes I needed to order something so I'd go off on something else.

I think one of the biggies is dont rivet the back wall in before the trunk floor. With the angle, it can be very difficult to get the front row of floor rivets.
Dont rivet anything until you're sure you're ready to. The whole side of my drivers footbox is still open even beyond first go cart.

[Dave Howard]

The FFR manual is well written and well laid out. FFR isn't going to lead you down any rabbit holes. If you follow the manual sequence you can't go wrong.

[Silv3rsurf3r]

So far front and rear suspension, brakes, and swaybars are on; F-panels riveted and siliconed on; diff installed...trying to decide what to tackle next until steering rack arrives from Breeze. Im thinking I will go ahead and drill and paint all aluminum panels, paint pedal box bare metal pieces, and start putting pedal box together. That way when steering rack gets here that can go in, finish up the pedal box, run the brake lines, install fuel tank, clecko most aluminum panels in place, run fuel lines, test fit eng/trans, get alignment done while car has some weight in it and finish up torquing all suspension and steering components. Then remove eng/trans, permanently install aluminum panels, run all chassis and eng wiring, install interior (to include dash/gauges, seating/harnesses, carpet, trunk stuff, etc.), reinstall eng/trans, test fit body, install exhaust/battery/fluids...Go Kart!!! Assuming no issues with body, remove and send off to get undercoated and painted. Reinstall body when it comes back, windshield, lights, etc. Then the only thing to do is fight with DMV to get registered and title.

Any thoughts? Did I leave anything out??

This is kind of what I'm going for as the final product minus the orange...

[Dave Howard]

Hey Rob. You didn't by chance use to work for Halliburton did you???

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Sorry Dave, never worked for Halliburton..

[Dave Howard]

Sorry Dave, never worked for Halliburton..

No worries. Different gear head with the same name.

[Silv3rsurf3r]

I'll take the silence as a nod of agreement that my build plan is sound...

[edwardb]

I'll take the silence as a nod of agreement that my build plan is sound...

It's OK. You'll find as you get into it you'll be jumping around some. Just think things through as you go and mock up as much as possible. Don't rivet anything until you have to. I was going to comment though on your statement "finish up torquing all suspension and steering components" as a later assembly step. You'll want to tighten to the provided torque values for all the mounting bolts as you go. Just follow the instructions. I like to mark them with a paint dot to confirm they're set. Only a few nuts are used later for the alignment.

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Alright, thanks for the insight Ed!

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Got more work done over the past couple weeks...ran into some trouble with IRS, 2015+ rear brake kit, and FFR 17" wheel and tire kit. Anybody run into these issues as well? If so, what did you do to correct situation? From what I can tell a wheel spacer might alleviate all these issues...thoughts anyone???

This pic shows how close the banjo bolt is to the wheel underside, if you cant tell...really close! So close that the fastening bolt for it will not fit not to mention the bend angle on the banjo wouldnt allow it to seat properly.



This pic shows the banjo flipped the other way, once again not enough clearance for the bolt to fasten to the caliper.



This pic show the caliper rubbing on the inside of the wheel...also not good!



And finally this pic shows the tire rubbing on the strut, the only way to adjust this was to run out the caster, camber, and toe to ridiculous levels just to get 1/4" gap and that was with weight on the tire...



So in conclusion this project has come to a screeching halt until I can figure out how to alleviate these issues. I am more worried than not that I just got a bad frame and/or the welder was having a bad day that day and some of the dimensions are off causing this. Hopefully a set of wheel spacers will fix this but I'm gonna wait to hear from FFR before I go any further...

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Here are some more pics of some of the work I was able to get done before I ran into the wheel fitment issue...

Manual rack and sway bar installed


Aluminum panels fitted





Fuel tank installed





Welp, thats it for now

[edwardb]

Got more work done over the past couple weeks...ran into some trouble with IRS, 2015+ rear brake kit, and FFR 17" wheel and tire kit. Anybody run into these issues as well? If so, what did you do to correct situation? From what I can tell a wheel spacer might alleviate all these issues...thoughts anyone???

This pic show the caliper rubbing on the inside of the wheel...also not good!

And finally this pic shows the tire rubbing on the strut, the only way to adjust this was to run out the caster, camber, and toe to ridiculous levels just to get 1/4" gap and that was with weight on the tire...

So in conclusion this project has come to a screeching halt until I can figure out how to alleviate these issues. I am more worried than not that I just got a bad frame and/or the welder was having a bad day that day and some of the dimensions are off causing this. Hopefully a set of wheel spacers will fix this but I'm gonna wait to hear from FFR before I go any further...

FWIW, couple of comments. I think you can relax about whether this is a frame issue, bad welder day, whatever. While there are a handful of hand placed parts during assembly and welding, the majority including critical elements like the suspension pick-up points are all fixtured. I think it's extremely unlikely that's the cause of problems you're having. I haven't used the 2015+ brake kit. Only the Wilwoods. But comparing your pictures to mine, they're pretty similar in size and location. I also haven't used 17-inch wheels. Only the 18's. But comparing width, offset, and backspace, they should be very similar in relation to possible caliper interference and closeness to the coilover strut. I've had not issues with either.

In looking and your pictures and thinking about it a little, two questions: First, although unlikely, are you positive the wheels are correct? That's a common denominator to everything you're experiencing. I assume those the Factory Five 17-inch Halibrand Replica rear wheels? They should measure 10.5-inch width, 27mm offset and 6.7-inch backspace. Something to check. Second, you mention running "caster, camber, and toe to ridiculous levels" to get the tire away from the coilover. First, the rear IRS only has camber and toe. No caster. How are you measuring that? Looking at the camber adjustment in your picture, it's about in the middle of it's travel. Nothing extreme. I've found it needs to be there if not something different than that. Same for toe. How you are measuring? Also has to be done at ride height, although for the rear that doesn't make as big a difference as the front. I can't give you an exact measurement, but I can reach up and fit my palm between the rear tire and the coilover spring on my IRS Roadster #8674. Something isn't right. Alignment being way off could cause that. So could the wrong wheels.

[Silv3rsurf3r]

So, just got an email from FFR. Apparently the 17" wheel and tire package from them is supposed to come with rear wheel spacers. Soo relieved that thats the only issue! Thanks again for your insight Ed. I was freaking out for a minute there...

[edwardb]

So, just got an email from FFR. Apparently the 17" wheel and tire package from them is supposed to come with rear wheel spacers. Soo relieved that thats the only issue! Thanks again for your insight Ed. I was freaking out for a minute there...

There you go. That makes sense. You were on the right track thinking about spacers.

[Yama-Bro]

So, just got an email from FFR. Apparently the 17" wheel and tire package from them is supposed to come with rear wheel spacers. Soo relieved that thats the only issue! Thanks again for your insight Ed. I was freaking out for a minute there...

Interesting, I just ran into an issue with my 17" rims/tires hitting the springs on my 3 link car. I don't have the spacers. Did you find your spacers in your boxes, or are you getting some from FFR? I'd be interested to know the thickness and if there's a FFR part number.

Your build is coming along good and looks great!

[Silv3rsurf3r]

No, I never received them and they werent on the inventory either to know the difference so FFR is sending out a set. They said the thickness is 1/8" and that full weight needs to be on suspension to set ride height then work the alignment and shouldnt have any problems after that. But while its in the air they said its not uncommon for clearance issues with suspension unsprung. That came from tech support mgr at FFR, hope that helps!

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Soo...got more accomplished. After getting the wheels spacers from FFR no more fitment issues (sigh of relief!). Also finished the brakes (minus the e-brake).

Decided to go with some Wilwood master cylinders with integral reservoirs to clean up the look a bit (and also assure no leaks from reservoir). Turned out pretty good I think and plenty of space to get the caps off and fill reservoirs with a funnel once all panels and body are on. Also used Earls premade SS braided brake lines throughout, to be honest just didnt feel like f@!$ing with the hard lines. Initially I was worried about having a mushy pedal with flexible lines throughout, but, after bleeding the brakes, brake pedal has a solid feel and running the lines were a breeze! Huge timesaver!

Also, if you notice in the pictures towards the end, the clutch travel sensors are removed. The FFR manual says you need to use both sensors as one is a safety interlock and the other is to help with deceleration idle characteristics. Well after talking to Ford tech line, it turns out the safety interlock is exactly that, so you dont start the car with it in gear accidentally(duh). But the other sensor is not for idle or driveability issues, in fact Ford said they are no longer shipping that sensor anymore with the Coyote control packs. Apparently that sensor is ONLY for if you were going to install cruise control and since it didnt have that great of a following Ford ditched the sensor altogether. So that being said I am opting to connect the safety interlock clutch sensor to the nuetral safety on the TKO instead just to clean up the pedal box even more...anyways, enough rambling back to the garage to finish prepping the eng/trans so that it will be ready to stab in after next weekend(long 4 day weekend) hopefully if I get all the chassis and engine wiring harnesses, dash and gauges done, and aluminum panels glued and riveted in. We shall see...

[Dave Howard]

Hi Rob,

As for your talk about clutch/transmission safety switches, in 2012, I opted NOT to install a clutch safety switch with my Coyote set up, and like you, used the neutral safety switch on the TKO600. Works perfect every time.
Your build is going well.

[Silv3rsurf3r]

Thanks Dave! Yeah im trying to go for a minimalistic look with the least amount of clutter. Cheers!

[rx7922]

where did you get your enegine and transmission?

[JoeAIII]

I prefer that strategy as well.
I usually wind up defeating the clutch switches in my other cars as well. Its nice to be able to reach in, make sure its in neutral, and hit the key to start at track days, autocrosses, etc. Instead of having to climb in and right back out when warming up etc.

[erstanl]

Love the build. Subscribed

1) Looks like you are running the 13" brakes in back and the 11" setup in the front. Is that correct?
2) Also, noticed your not running a brake booster. Curious as to your thoughts around choosing your brake setup. I'm trying to sort my way through it right now, love to hear your reasoning.
3) What front spindle are you running?