Let me introduce myself - I'm John D. (Fixit) on here - residing in Frostbite Falls, MN. (actually the Minneapolis 'burbs)
I've placed my order for a Mk4 Complete Kit, using a Coyote, TKO-600, and IRS.
I have been a "lurker" on this Forum since August of '17, gathering information and convincing myself to pull the trigger on this project. I have wanted to build a Cobra replica/tribute since my late teens - it's only taken 35+ years to achieve that goal!
I am in need of another automotive project build. I completed my last project car (Yeah, Yeah,... I know... they're NEVER "done") about 5 years ago, and have been driving the wheels off it on Club cruises, autocross events, road-course track days, and of course on nice weekends to local shows with my sweetie.
By trade I'm an IBEW "Limited Power Technician" - read that Low Voltage guy. I specialize in commercial security, things like CCTV and Card Access systems - so I'm no stranger to complex & bizarre DC control & relay circuits. Hopefully I can return the favor on my build questions with electrical help or suggestions.
Welcome, I feel you will be right at home here. It would seem that there are many of us with varying backgrounds and technical expertise. I have to say my build has been going on for just a few months but I am nearing the engine start and go cart phase. I believe what I find difficult is not the build but the finishing touches. Plan ahead for paint and body, especially if you are one who gets a build done quickly. By the time that car is ready to drive you will want paint and it will take a while to get into someones schedule.
The madness has started...
Why wouldn't Mother Nature go off her meds the day a 500lb. IRS assembly needs to get out of my truck and into the shop!
My plan was to use the engine hoist to pick it out of the truck and wheel it into the 40 Watt - but the hoist is in the shed... behind the garage... with a full-season's of snow (plus an extra 6") in my way.
Cleaned the driveway, and carved a path to the shed with Mr. Toro - 7 trips later the hoist is assembled and the IRS is dangling. It's rolled in the shop and tucked behind Blackie for a future day.
Welcome aboard. Look forward to following along.
Nw forum rule - If you mention your recently completed project car you must post a picture! Let us check it out.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022 Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
I'm the 3rd owner, originally a 327/Pglide car, about 65,000 on the clock. I've still got the original 327 & trans (pickled, in storage).
I swapped the powertrain from my Dad's '96 Roadmaster into it, so it's now an EFI LT-1/4L60e combo, 3.08's out back. The LT-1 is bone-stock other than headers, some throttle body & intake work, and a tune.
This car/swap/project convinced me to go Coyote on the Roadster. 23 mpg, starts at 15-below, idles in traffic when it's 95 degs out, and holds it own at the stoplights.
When I did this swap there weren't any "kits" out there. You couldn't reasonably buy a stand-alone ECU or harness, so I modified the '96 Buick one. With the practically "Plug-n-Play" system for the Coyote it'll be a breeze.
Nice to see it back home John; you have built a great car and it was a pleasure to work with you! As I told ya', since I get to see them "without their clothes" the truth gets revealed and yours is outstanding...well thought out and well executed.
Originally Posted by HotrodMike
...How long did it take to do this one?
Hard to say Mike. This was kind of an on again, off again one. Because of trailer availability and his work travel schedule John brought it early even though he understood that I wasn't going to get to work on it right away (something that others have tended to forget when I've allowed them to bring cars at their convenience) so I didn't really begin in earnest until after New Years. After it was prepped, primed and ready for paint we got a cold snap with single digit temps so it went on hold for about 2 weeks---I can put plenty of heat into my paint room but with the 12,000CFM exhaust fan taking it out along with the paint overspray the 2 furnaces can't keep up once the outside temperature drops below about 20 degrees. I think it actually got paint mid February and then it just sat around looking pretty for a month or so since John planned to pick it up during a family trip that brought him 2/3 of the way here last week.
Hopefully the weather in Frostbite Falls will let you start rolling up some more miles soon---but maybe you can try to keep it out of the Minnesota mud, at least for a week or two
Down south, your lovely El Camino is called a "Georgia Jaguar"! It's a beauty!
Garry
I sure miss my coupe!
F5R1004503SP 2004 Challenge Car, 331 Stroker
Coupe # 031, 422" Windsor stroker by Southern Automotive (Dash autographed by Peter Brock)***SOLD***
Unique 427 Roadster, 482" Aluminum FE by Southern Automotive***SOLD***
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022 Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
Spent a pleasant 30 minutes on the blower with Mike Forte yesterday... This guy's a stitch! We worked through my requests/quote and came to an agreement. I can see why so many people here buy from him!
Spent a pleasant 30 minutes on the blower with Mike Forte yesterday... This guy's a stitch! We worked through my requests/quote and came to an agreement. I can see why so many people here buy from him!
Everyone I have ever talked to had great things to say about Mike.
I am very excited to see your build come along. Your off to a great start.
Welcome to the madness! I`m sure you`ll have a blast! I`m about 8h north of you (Winnipeg, MB) May have to check out your build some time if I get down that way.
Nice to here from another IBEW member. I`m a member of local 2034. Power Electrician (other end of the spectrum..mostly high voltage stuff) but am familiar with the fun of low voltage circuits (have low voltage ticket as well)
Nice to see someone else in a snowy climate doing a build.
Since it's a soaring 40 above zero today, I decided to start breaking down the IRS cradle/assembly I got for the roadster. Switched on the shop heat, backed out Mrs. Fixit's daily driver, and got started.
I've really got to get my head wrapped around working on new or nearly new parts... I was done in an hour. It's just foreign to me for bolts to work like bolts, nuts to just spin off, and things to just pop loose with gravity or a "love-tap".
Having worked on 50+ year old stuff the last 10 years, I'm used to starting with 3/8" drive, then 1/2", then the breaker bar, then a cheater on the bar, then the gas-axe! Not being bathed in penetrating oil and getting totally filthy is also a new experience!
Tools used:
1/2" drive - Breaker Bar, Impact Wrench, Ratchet, 1-1/4", 13/16", 18mm, 15mm sockets
3/8" drive - Ratchet, 6" extension, 10mm socket
1/4" drive - Ratchet, 3" extension, 8mm socket
18mm & 15mm Combination wrenches
Dead-Blow hammer (just to pop rotors off hubs)
"Persuader" (wedged between lug studs to loosen axle nut, and pop axles out of diff)
Now to try and get rid of/sell the leftovers...
Last edited by Fixit; 03-12-2018 at 05:04 PM.
Reason: Add detail
I've really got to get my head wrapped around working on new or nearly new parts... I was done in an hour. It's just foreign to me for bolts to work like bolts, nuts to just spin off, and things to just pop loose with gravity or a "love-tap".
Having worked on 50+ year old stuff the last 10 years, I'm used to starting with 3/8" drive, then 1/2", then the breaker bar, then a cheater on the bar, then the gas-axe! Not being bathed in penetrating oil and getting totally filthy is also a new experience!
I can relate my last build was a 67 Mustang. I am ready for a build using new bolts.
On the OEM half-shafts at the hub/wheel end there is a (for lack of a better term) dirt/crud/water "slinger", that kind-of seals the back of the axle/wheel bearing. (middle pic above)
Does this come with the FFR half-shafts, or should I save the OEM's?
When we hit +40 in March, out come the shorts & T-shirts!... then Ma Nature gets off her meds and throws 10+ inches of snow at us (that happened the last 36 hours).
When you live in MN, any day when you can go outside and the air doesn't HURT, it's a good day.
Yup, the little discs just below/inboard of the hub splines were what I was asking about. I'll let 'em go with the OEM half-shafts.
No kidding about responses on Craigslist or other... My only goal at this stage is to recoup the shipping cost (or at least some of it). I've been "trolled" twice already by fakers or tire kickers, nobody serious. I've even put the word out to a couple of collision shop owners I'm friendly with - seeing as (according to YouTube) most new Mustangs wind up bent in the first hours of ownership (! ) I thought they'd like to know I've got parts!
Thanks for the reply! I'll be using many of your ideas and referencing your detailed build threads with my car - I hope to mirror your postings with my own.
Just to warn others about this potential problem... I bought a rotor to rotor "take out" assembly. You'll be disposing of 75% of it.
One of the problems I had tearing it down dealt with the forward two mounting bolts of the differential housing.
From the factory, the 4 bigazz bolts holding the diff to the cradle are coated with thread-locker Blue.
The "aft/rear" bolts come out easily once you crack them loose with a breaker bar.
The "Forward" bolts might give you a problem.
The OEM Ford bushings have a LOT of twist/flex built in them. So much so, that they've built a little "tang" on the bushing, that registers against a mating tab on the differential housing. When I was attempting to break the death-grip of Loc-Tite on the forward bolts, all of my energy was spent on twisting the rubber - not cracking loose the bolt - until I gave it a closer look.
I wound up using the "persuader" to lever the diff housing forward against the built-in tab/slot mechanism, then my breaker bar energy was correctly transferred to the bolt - not the rubber bushing. One bolt came out easily, the other I nearly rounded off the "tab" on the diff trying to get the mutha loose.
Keep this in mind before you get yourself into a problem!
40 Watt Garage - Parts List - 05/19/18 it's ready!
As much as I'd love to dig into this thing, I've delayed shipment until Ma Nature gets back on her summer meds, her winter tantrums have melted, and I've got time to get the "40 Watt" in shape for a project.
Here's my order list:
MkIV Complete Kit
Chassis Powdercoat
Coyote mount kit
Coyote Install kit
Coyote Full Length Headers (SS upgrade)
IRS
Body Cut-Outs
Vinyl Seats
FFR GPS Gauges
17" Halibrands
SS Bumper Kit(s)
Wind Wings
Visors
Heat/Defrost (I'm in MN)
Wipers
Assembled Louvers
EFI Fuel Sys
Chrome Roll Bar (DS only)
Roll Bar Grommet kit
Dash Support
Power Steering (Coyote)
I've got a quote from Mike Forte on a Coyote crate & TKO600 setup, (and will be timing that with Stewart's anticipated delivery date.)
I'm going with the .82 Overdrive - Doing the numbers on the .64 vs .82 with my tire height & axle ratio, the .64 calc'd out to 85-ish MPH at 2200 R's. With the speed limits & roads around here I'd never see 5th gear. The .82 calc's out to about 65 MPH - much more in the usable range.
Further digging and research here have revealed some other "must have's", and I'll probably go with them... Advise?
Dropped trunk floor
DS footbox (whose ??)
Column Turn Signals
(Spend my money!)
I'm going with the .82 Overdrive - Doing the numbers on the .64 vs .82 with my tire height & axle ratio, the .64 calc'd out to 85-ish MPH at 2200 R's. With the speed limits & roads around here I'd never see 5th gear. The .82 calc's out to about 65 MPH - much more in the usable range.
Further digging and research here have revealed some other "must have's", and I'll probably go with them... Advise?
Dropped trunk floor
DS footbox (whose ??)
Column Turn Signals
(Spend my money!)
Those numbers don't seem quite right. What differential ratio are you calculating with? What about tire diameter? .82 might be the right choice but I think you're going to be seeing higher RPM's than that in cruise.
Dropped trunk floor = Russ Thompson has those. They're also pretty easy to fabricate.
DS Footbox = With the newest kit and using a Coyote, there's very little to be gained. Little tuck here and there maybe. Talked about in other threads. But nothing from a vendor.
Column turn signal = Russ Thompson has been the most common for a long time. He makes them from a VW turn signal assembly. He's currently backordered waiting for a new supply of the VW parts. He has a waiting list. I'd let him know if you want one. As long as you are in line behind me for the one I need for my Coupe.
Last edited by edwardb; 03-15-2018 at 07:26 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Paul's got the right idea ... get in line for the turn signal, somewhere behind me too Actually, Russ called me last week and let me know his next batch was in and he was ready for my steering wheel boss; I shipped it to him last weekend. So he's working through his backlog now.
Looking forward to my official photographer duties when your kit arrives ... and watching you grow smaller in the rear view mirror as you start the inventory process. Actually, its not bad, and you'll be so thrilled at how shiny and new all the parts look, as opposed to rusted and frozen with MN road salt. Big adventure on the horizon!
MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
Meandering, leisurely build thread is here
Those numbers don't seem quite right. What differential ratio are you calculating with? What about tire diameter? .82 might be the right choice but I think you're going to be seeing higher RPM's than that in cruise.
Dropped trunk floor = Russ Thompson has those. They're also pretty easy to fabricate.
DS Footbox = With the newest kit and using a Coyote, there's very little to be gained. Little tuck here and there maybe. Talked about in other threads. But nothing from a vendor.
Column turn signal = Russ Thompson has been the most common for a long time. He makes them from a VW turn signal assembly. He's currently backordered waiting for a new supply of the VW parts. He has a waiting list. I'd let him know if you want one. As long as you are in line behind me for the one I need for my Coupe.
I went with the rt turn signal, shipped him my steering boss this week. Fix it, if you decide you want one, reach out to him well ahead of when you think you need it. Edwardb, I would reach out for an update if you haven't already heard from him, I can't imagine I got on the list before you did.
I went with the rt turn signal, shipped him my steering boss this week. Fix it, if you decide you want one, reach out to him well ahead of when you think you need it. Edwardb, I would reach out for an update if you haven't already heard from him, I can't imagine I got on the list before you did.
We're all set. Steering boss on it's way out.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I can relate brother... I was heavily into Mustangs in my HS years, and worked on many "Flintstone Specials" ('cause that's all I could afford). No floors left, rear springs poking into the trunk, cowl/torque boxes rotted... yech. ProjectStang1and2.jpg
That's what I suspected. That's pretty tall in my opinion. I did a build with the .82 TKO and 3.27 diff. I did like how usable the .82 was in town and that there was less of a gap between 4th and 5th. But the RPM was a little high in cruise, and acceleration was a little on the soft side compared to my Mk3 with 3.55. The anniversary build I went back to the .64 TKO and 3.55. Acceleration is back and cruise RPM is reasonable. What doesn't show in the data is that the Coyote has a very flat torque curve approaching 300 ft lbs as low as 2500 RPM. You can drop it into 5th at well below cruise speed and it doesn't complain a bit. I don't think your assessment of never using 5th with .64 would necessarily be the case. FWIW.
Last edited by edwardb; 03-15-2018 at 08:03 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
That was one of my questions... I've got no experience with a Coyote 5.0, and don't know where it's "sweet spot" is.
(My turbo'd 3.5 V6 in the F-150 doesn't give a rip, stomp on it and it throws boost until the tires cry Mama!)
I really don't mind buzzing in the low 2K's to have the power "on tap". I just don't want to be gear-hunting at highway cruise when I want to pass someone. (My '65 Camino "Blackie" has a 4-spd Auto, w/ 3.08's out back. At cruise MPH (70-ish) he's barely off idle! Any press on the loud-pedal results in a downshift.
You touched on another sore-spot too... gear spacing. I'm not too crazy on the severe jump between 4th & 5th with the .64 OD. I'm looking for more of an extension of gearing, than an economy/rpm savings....
Well Mr. John - "grow smaller"... challenge accepted!
I've got an engine crane & leveler that's available for the asking, blast cabinet in the "40 Watt", and other "stuff". Going rate is Shiner Bock or Fat Tire.
John,
I think you've stumbled onto the double edged sword that comes with the TKO. If you want the .82 fifth gear you are forced to take a 2.87 first. Overall ratio in fifth with a 3.15 rear end = 2.58:1 but on the other end the overall reduction in first is 9.04:1---a little soft in my opinion (I like to see somewhere around 10.0 to 10.5:1 for a good useable yet snappy first gear on the street). If you go to the 3.27 first gear it nets a nice 10.30:1 overall if you combine it with a 3.55 rear end but then you are locked in to the .64 fifth resulting in a 2.27:1 overall which may be a higher than you're after, not to mention the big step between 4th and 5th that you seem to wish to avoid. I've always wondered why TREMEC didn't ever offer the best of both and build one with a 3.27 first and .82 fifth...
I'm also thinking about power-to-weight, and traction... with 430+/300lbft just off idle on tap even with a sticky/wide tire I'll take a bit of an expected "lull" before things get interesting out back.
Just ask Forte when you order. He fixed me up being a novice and the results are incredible.
20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Jeff Miller. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.
Wait a minute! I’ve been on his back order list for turn signal since December. He didn’t call me. I’ll have to call him tomorrow. Sorry to go off topic.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Mother Nature's still off her meds in the Northland... We should be bumping 50 degs, not the TEENS!! (and potentially several inches more of the white-stuff on Sunday). This is getting really old.
Been surfing the "Must Have" threads, and finding more ways to spend money...
I've sent in a "change order" for my kit, substituting a blank dash panel for the pre-punched one - I'm going to do my version of the S/C layout instead of street - but also add the glovebox. The gauge layout of the S/C makes much more sense, but that expanse of "nothing" on the right just doesn't look right IMO.
What is the group's experience with the Alex glovebox? So far it seems to be the best option, as the door is done, and material(s) supplied to cover the dash to match.
Edwardb... On one of your build threads, you built your own glovebox. This is intriguing, as I'm also going to run a heater. I really don't care if the glovebox is practically useless, but I want the look of it over on the right. Do you have any dimensions/templates/parts list?
What is the group's experience with the Alex glovebox? So far it seems to be the best option, as the door is done, and material(s) supplied to cover the dash to match.
Good, but just be sure to allow for lots of lead time 'cause it seems to take a while between order and delivery.
Here it is in one I built for a customer a few years ago:
You may have seen that he also offers a shallow version to allow room for the heater.