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Thread: The 40 Watt Garage - #9365

  1. #161
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Looks awesome John! Can't wait to get mine...as soon as I get this steering shaft thing worked out..LOL. I sent Russ a note just as a reminder that I have the same frame setup as you. Thanks for the pics!
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  2. #162
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Tins/Panel work - "Breeze" trunk divider/Cubby

    Because of the geography of my current residence, and Mrs. Fixit being "Thermally Challenged" - the heater/defroster option in #9365 was a "must have".

    The downside to this option is that a glovebox becomes basically useless. The heater box/core takes up every bit of space that would be used by a glovebox. This leaves only door pockets for convenient storage of "stuff" - enter the trunk divider Cubby Hole kit from Breeze.

    I hemmed and hawed about this, but seeing as #9365 is running the IRS setup, a rear "sunken" battery was out, and looking at that upper trunk area from an accessibility standpoint from the trunk convinced me to order the Breeze Cubby kit, and their front battery box mount kit.

    I jigged up the divider wall at the prescribed 11 inches aft of the cockpit cross-tube, and made some marks with a Sharpie. I did some tweaking to the supplied angle mounting pieces, and clamped things in place. (I chose to put the bottom edge attachment/wavy edge into the cubby area, not into the trunk... it can go either way.)

    (One thing you'll notice is my home-built upper/inner trunk side panels. Why FFR doesn't supply this is beyond me. They will make the trunk interior trim-out so much easier and cleaner)

    I haven't done any mods to the (FFR supplied) rear cockpit wall. Breeze supplies dimensions for an access hole, and edge trim/pinch moulding for the opening. I've got a few ideas rattling around in my head for a sliding access door into this area.
    BreezeCubby01.jpg BreezeCubby02.jpg BreezeCubby03.jpg BreezeCubby04.jpg BreezeCubby05.jpg BreezeCubby06.jpg
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  3. #163
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Thoughts & Suggestions

    This is my 1st FFR build. I'd like to share some tips/pointers that I've used or discovered that IMO will help other 1st-timers, and hopefully the seasoned builders will chime in too.

    I've done (and helped with) a few frame-off restorations on 60's muscle cars. As I'm putting this thing together I keep flashing back to those projects.
    - All the fluid piping is in place
    - Filters, pumps, cable brackets, are all in place, or attachment points are planned
    - Wiring harnesses are routed
    - Any "add-ons" are anticipated and planned for

    Why? 'Cause once you lower that 1200+lb. welded steel body back down on the frame it ain't coming off again... and snaking stuff through/up/around/over with the body in the way is sometimes impossible.

    Enter assembling a MkIV
    - There are no factory provisions made for the above - YOU choose where to final route & mount things.

    This said...
    To date, only three pieces of aluminum are a permanent part (riveted) of the car - the "F" panels, and the Driver's front footbox panel. Every other piece of "tin" is still held in with a few Cleco's.

    - This allows me to think about and jig up whatever I'm working on with finished obstructions in the way.
    - I think about future serviceability, and tool access (can you get a wrench in there?)
    - Consider moving parts, pinch points, sharp edges, clearance issues

    Now within a few minutes I can squeeze a few Cleco's and all the "tins" are out of my way.
    - I've got clearance for a drill
    - I just gained "X-ray" vision (no sheetgoods in the way)
    - I can easily work under/over/around/through the frame components
    - I can easily alter a panel - punch a hole, cut a notch, trim an edge - on the workbench

    I'm guessing I've had the sheetmetal on & off of this car about 6 times now... and it'll probably be 6 more times before another rivet gets set.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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  5. #164
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Trunk Area Pt.1

    Hey All... The last several days has been muddling through everything that happens in/under/around the trunk, and making provisions for the standard FFR stuff, and additions & options that I wanted to do.

    (This all goes somewhat out of sequence with the FFR manual, but (IMO) all of these things need to be dealt with before you start even thinking about setting a rivet in a trunk area panel. Once those panels are locked down with "glue & screws" it's going to be a real PITA to make alterations or additions.)

    I wanted to get everything from the rear cockpit wall to the bumper bolts planned out, mocked up, and (if necessary) bolted down before any tin went on.

    Options I chose to do or add to #9365:
    - The Russ Thompson "dropped trunk floor".
    - Breeze storage cubby/divider panel
    - Upper Trunk side panels - 40 Watt
    - Backup Lamp circuit - 40 Watt
    - Trunk illumination - 40 Watt
    - Storage Cubby illumination - 40 Watt

    FFR Items:
    - EFI/Coyote Fuel System
    - Roll Bar(s)

    Coyote Engine Related
    - Forte's EFI/Coyote Fuel System parts (provided with my engine package - to either substitute or add to the FFR provided parts).

    All of the above aren't really a problem until you put the dropped trunk into the mix. The trunk box necessitates moving the wiring harness a bit, and totally messes with any after-install access to mount or route things back there - even if you drop the gas tank.

    (The dropped trunk IMO this is a no-brainer option. With a few hours work you gain a cu.ft. + more trunk space... however...
    The new trunk box, and the FFR floor are an assembled sandwich around the trunk floor diagonal braces. Once it's in there, it's more or less permanent.)
    This modification impacts:
    - Rear Body Wiring Harness routing
    - Rear Bumper Bolt access
    - Fuel Sender & In-Tank Fuel Pump electrical plugs (routing)
    - General Access for drilling, brackets, etc., back there.

    Dropped Trunk:
    Russ provides some beautiful panels that fit together with no tweaking. You're gonna need a bunch of Cleco's.

    - Get your lower trunk floor in place, and get it Cleco'd basically at the corners - but not in the "field" where the diagonals come across. (You just want a few fixed/repeatable points where you can take the panel in and out and have it lock in the same place every time.)
    - Dive under the car, and trace out all the frame members on the underside of the trunk panel.
    - Build & Cleco the new trunk box, but not the trunk floor mounting flange.
    - Remove the FFR lower trunk panel, and lay out the cutting lines per the RT instructions. (Measure twice, Cut once).
    - Cut the rough opening in the trunk floor
    - Set the new trunk box in place on the trunk floor pan, double check everything and at the box's 4 corners, Cleco it to the trunk floor.
    - Transpose your tracings of the trunk area frame braces onto where they contact the new trunk box.
    - Remove the trunk box and carefully trim the box to your marks.
    - Take the parts over to the car, and see if they fit. Cleco them together in the car with your 4-corner "master" mounting points. Trim/adjust as needed.
    - Once satisfied with the fit of the new panels, remove it all, and do your final drilling, and trimming of the box to the trunk floor opening. NO RIVETS YET.
    - Now put it all back in the car, and make reference marks on the frame members where the new trunk box gets in the way of the frame members.
    - Now take it all back out of the car again!

    RT_Trunk.jpg RT_Trunk02.jpg RT_Trunk03.jpg RT_Trunk04.jpg RT_Trunk05.jpg RT_Trunk06.jpg RT_Trunk07.jpg

    Set these panels aside for the moment, and get ready for some electrical harness work.
    Last edited by Fixit; 09-13-2018 at 05:14 PM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  6. #165
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Electrical - Rear Harness Mods & Install

    Rear Electrical Harness - Mounting and Mods


    I'm adding the Breeze "Cubby" divider panel, and Russ Thompson's dropped trunk floor kit to #9365.
    My own additions will include:
    - Trunk courtesy light
    - Cubby courtesy light
    - Backup/Reverse light(s)
    - 3rd/High Mount Brake Light (Jury's still out on this - but I'm prepping for it)

    The FFR supplied Ron Francis wiring harness does not include circuits to do any of the above. You will have to add them. 18ga. wire is adequate.
    - Backup lights need a fused Ign. switched +12v feed to the transmission switch, and the subsequent +12v switched (via the transmission) feed to the rear of the car.
    - Trunk courtesy lighting needs a fused "HAAT" (Hot At All Times) +12v feed to the trunk area. (switches to be figured out later)
    - 3rd Brake Light needs a feed tapped off of either the L or R brake light circuit in the trunk area, and routed to the accessible upper trunk area.

    I am not going to install a radio.
    The RF harness has provisions for one - which solves two problems - a fused IGN switched feed, and a fused HAAT feed are provided.
    I'll be tapping off of these feeds from the dash harness, near where the rear harness enters the firewall, behind the dash.
    The 3rd Brake light feeder will be "T-tapped" off of one of the existing L or R wires, and routed with the license light wiring.

    I'm not going to detail a lot of pictures, as this job is simply pushing a wire or two into the rear harness zip-tubing.
    - You'll need to measure where your transmission's reverse switch is located, approximate that location on the frame, and break out of the main rear harness at that point.
    - You'll need to plan where you intend to have the (RF) license light break into the (accessible) trunk, and add the HAAT & 3rd Brake feeders through the main and into that leg of the harness.
    - You'll need to run the switched reverse/backup feed through the rest of the rear harness (from the trans switch then aft), and drop it out at your intended backup light(s) location (adding a ground as well).

    The dropped trunk floor necessitated moving the rear harness to the PS a bit. Once above the rear diff, it'll angle over and run between the fuel tank kickup and the box.

    I'm not Ty-rapping the harness to the frame tubes. I installed Ty-rap cable clamps with TEK screws to the frame. Looping a Ty-rap around a frame tube creates a hump where the panel won’t sit flat. (Why not rivet? I don't have access to UV-stable clamps. In a few years these will get brittle - as long as you don't pull on them they'll be fine, but if you do - they'll break. I wanted an easy way to replace them.)

    At the lower right it shows where I routed the License Light loom along the trunk diagonal, under the cross-tube, and up-n-out near the PS roll-bar outrigger. I’ll punch a hole in the upper trunk floor and install a grommet here. The loom will then go onto the curved trunk hinge support tube to about the middle.
    Trunk01.jpg

    I didn’t punch the prescribed 3 harness holes in the firewall. The Sending Unit loom is small, and leaves plenty of room in the grommet for the Rear Body harness. They both go through the same grommet. (The Coyote harness is the one to the right, not part of a “standard” install). This shows where my “added” +12v switched, and +12 HAAT feeders break out. I’ll install a keyed connector on them, with its mate tapped into the RF radio wires.
    Trunk02.jpg

    This is a good shot of the temporarily installed dropped trunk kit, and where I installed a grommet for the licence, 3rd brake, and trunk courtesy lights.
    Trunk03.jpg

    This shows where I dropped the transmission switched +12v “backup” light wire out. It’s about center in the rear, and I added a ground wire (T-tapped into DS lights ground, and also landed to the steel center support plate).
    Backup.jpg

    The reverse gear switch on a Tremec is at the rear of the tailcone. Measuring the length of the driveshaft, and doing a “swag” on it, I dropped the switched +12v feed, and the feed to the rear lamp(s) out of the Rear Harness at this point. (I added the split loom)
    Backup02.jpg
    Tail/Stop/Turn
    Since my backup lights, fuel sender, and fuel pump wiring need to snake between the trunk box and the rearmost frame/bumper mounts, I decided to just punch a hole in each side, install a grommet, and run the Tail/Stop/Turn harnesses out here.
    TurnSignal01.jpg
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  7. #166
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Trunk Area – Fuel System

    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Trunk Area – Fuel System

    (This all goes somewhat out of sequence with the FFR manual, but (IMO) all of these things need to be dealt with before you start even thinking about setting a rivet in a trunk area panel. Once those panels are locked down with "glue & screws" it's going to be a real PITA to make alterations or additions.)

    I wanted to get everything from the rear cockpit wall to the bumper bolts planned out, mocked up, and (if necessary) bolted down before any tin went on.

    I’ll be using the Forte’s Performance supplied fuel delivery components in the Coyote Package.
    Mike provides:

    • In-Tank pump & pickup
    • Integrated filter & regulator
    • Pre-made quick connect lines (supply & return to filter/regulator)
    • Adapter tube (filter outlet to quick connect line)
    • A length of fuel line with quick connect ends (filter to engine)


    Ford Performance (via Forte’s) provides:

    • Evap Canister


    FFR provides:

    • Fuel Level sending unit
    • Fuel Tank & mounting straps


    I installed the fuel lever sender and Forte’s pump/pickup into the tank per the FFR instructions, and with some experience of my own doing this on other vehicles.
    Tips:

    • Smear some Vaseline or chassis grease onto the O-rings. I’ll help hold them in place, and let the parts slide around a bit when seating the locking rings.
    • There’s a sump in the fuel pickup area of the tank. The filter sock must be oriented the correct way on the pump for it to fit. Look through the filler hole with a flashlight to see what I mean.
    • Make sure the filter sock is fully seated on the pickup nose of the pump! It’ll fall off wiggling the assembly into the tank if it’s not. (Don’t ask how I know…)
    • The locking ring “ears” invade the space for the discs on the sender & pickup. You’ll have to finagle the parts around to get them past the ears and onto the O-rings.
    • If everything’s seated in place correctly, the locking rings will easily spin around into position with a few light love-taps with a hammer & drift. Make sure all three ears are engaged.


    Here’s the in-tank pump and filter sock
    Double check the tightness of the machine screws and the outlet hose clamp. (The large hose clamp around the pump body was to keep the pump from moving while pressing the filter sock on. It was removed before installing the pump)
    Fuel_01.png

    This is the integrated supply/return/regulator fuel filter, with the Forte’s supplied tube adapter on the outlet.
    Fuel_02.png

    This is the raw bracket I made up for the filter unit, some 2x2 aluminum angle, and a 10-32 rivnut
    Fuel_03.png

    Bracket & Filter
    Fuel_04.png

    Mocked in place on the car
    It’s roughly above the axle shaft, aft of the UCA forward pivot, on the main frame rail
    Fuel_05.png

    After a trip to the blast cabinet and paint
    Fuel_06.png

    Riveted on the car, with Supply and Return hoses attached
    Fuel_07.png

    Shot from forward of the brake rotor. The filter outlet hangs just below the main frame member, angled out
    Fuel08b.jpg

    Fuel Tank with Fuel Level sender, and Fuel Pump installed. The Filter/Regulator is at top-right.
    Fuel_09.png

    Fuel Pump with quick-connect lines attached
    Fuel_10.png
    Last edited by Fixit; 09-13-2018 at 07:34 PM. Reason: clarification
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  8. #167
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Trunk Area – Evap Canister

    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Trunk Area – Evap Canister

    I wanted to get everything from the rear cockpit wall to the bumper bolts planned out, mocked up, and (if necessary) bolted down before any tin went on.

    This is provided with the Coyote install kit from Ford Performance. It’s kind of a big clunky thing, and others have made up their own with Aquarium filter parts. I decided to use it.

    FFR provides a laser-cut stainless bracket for the canister… but I didn’t/couldn’t find it until I made my own. As it turned out the FFR bracket wouldn’t have worked where I wanted to mount the canister.

    I did use an FFR provided bracket for another (previous version?) fuse panel. I opened up the hole on one end for the canister mounting tab, and drilled/nutserted the other for a mounting screw. The bracket was riveted to the frame on the PS side, forward of the trunk kickup, hanging down above the IRS.

    Evap_01.jpg Evap_02.jpg Evap_03.jpg

    The 3/8" inlet was capped off, and on the 1/4" inlet a length of fuel hose was routed to the fuel tank vent
    Last edited by Fixit; 09-13-2018 at 08:22 PM. Reason: clarification
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  9. #168
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    These are some detail pics of the installation.
    The steering hub is not in it's final/fully-seated-on-the-shaft position!

    The final position and length of the steering shaft & RT mounting tube is yet to be determined. It may/will require adjustment once I get the dashboard installed.

    This option is worth every penny. Russ has done a beautiful job making a very well engineered and easy to install product.


    Attachment 92913Attachment 92914Attachment 92915Attachment 92916Attachment 92917
    Hey John - I received my RT Turn Signal kit and thanks to your pictures, you really made it a 30 minute install. Just wanted to say THANKS! One question on your steering boss. When you lined it up on the steering shaft, did it slide on easily? Mine stops about 1/2" in and am not about to force anything. The flat sides are aligned with the shaft flat sides, so seems to be aligned correctly. Maybe one of those, tap tap tap press fit deals? RT did say that once in you’ll need a steering wheel puller to get it off again.
    Last edited by cv2065; 09-13-2018 at 11:30 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  10. #169
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    One question on your steering boss. When you lined it up on the steering shaft, did it slide on easily? Mine stops about 1/2" in and am not about to force anything. The flat sides are aligned with the shaft flat sides, so seems to be aligned correctly. Maybe one of those, tap tap tap press fit deals?
    No, my steering wheel hub is not a "slip fit". I could push it on by hand (dry) about 1/4", then it stuck. I threaded the retainer bolt in and just snugged it so I could test the signal system (by hand, no wheel attached).
    Many others have stated that it is a tight interference fit, and final install should be done only after the dash is in place - as you will need a puller to get the hub off again. When I get a little closer to that phase of assembly, I'll look more closely at the fit to see if any minor filing/fitting will be needed.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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