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Thread: The 40 Watt Garage - #9365 - Body is ON!

  1. #281


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post
    Hey Carl, were your adjustments to the sleeves/arms in the same 3/8" range as John? I'm coming up on the IFS soon and may proactively do the mod if there's a consistency in the measurement across builds, otherwise I'll loosely install everything and come back to it later.
    To reach 8 degrees I've found them to be pretty consistent. 1/4" is plenty; 3/8" gives a bit more and still leaves more than enough thread engagement.

    Jeff

  2. #282
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    Quote Originally Posted by VAHokie View Post
    Hey Carl, were your adjustments to the sleeves/arms in the same 3/8" range as John? I'm coming up on the IFS soon and may proactively do the mod if there's a consistency in the measurement across builds, otherwise I'll loosely install everything and come back to it later.
    Yes, I actually cut at the ends of the sleeve right at the end of the hex shape as it transitions into round. I cut off both ends so that it would match. Then I cut off about 3/8-7/16 off of the one end. I did not cut the solid end on the ball joint bracket. I figured that I really did not need to worry about not having enough threads as even with the cuts, I'm almost bottomed out to get to the 7* In fact, at the bottomed out point I was about 8.5* so I was happy with it there...

    NOTE: THIS PHOTO IS ONE FROM MY DRIVERS SIDE but on the passenger side it is set up like this with the rear of the vehicle to the left of the photo.
    Drivers Side Front modification.jpg

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Build Thread Click Here Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - Hit 1000 Miles 3-23-19

  3. #283
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Yes, I actually cut at the ends of the sleeve right at the end of the hex shape as it transitions into round. I cut off both ends so that it would match. Then I cut off about 3/8-7/16 off of the one end. I did not cut the solid end on the ball joint bracket. I figured that I really did not need to worry about not having enough threads as even with the cuts, I'm almost bottomed out to get to the 7* In fact, at the bottomed out point I was about 8.5* so I was happy with it there...


    My curiosity got the better of me, and I wanted to see if I could get away with not cutting the threaded shafts of the UCA's, just shave off a bit from the adjuster sleeves. I made up an "X-Ray Vision" tube from some 3/4" EMT, to simulate the adjuster sleeve. I basically removed the machined/turned down ends of the sleeves.

    **Note** If you look at one end of the sleeve, there's a groove machined into the round surface. This is the L.H. threaded end. Re-mark or pay attention upon re-assembly after cutting the sleeves.

    017.jpg 018.jpg

    The solution seems to be pretty consistent... I'd be pro-active and just do the mod now!
    Last edited by Fixit; 04-07-2019 at 06:32 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  4. #284
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    [COLOR=#000000][FONT=Verdana]
    **Note** If you look at one end of the sleeve, there's a groove machined into the round surface. This is the L.H. threaded end. Re-mark or pay attention upon re-assembly after cutting the sleeves.
    The solution seems to be pretty consistent... I'd be pro-active and just do the mod now!
    I actually saw this and was wondering why it was there.... Never even thought about the left handed threads... Thanks...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
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    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

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  5. #285
    Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    John/Jeff/Carl, thanks for all the great info, specs and pics. Did the mod tonight, slapped some anti-freeze in the sleeves and packaged it all back up.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  6. #286
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Anti-Seize right????

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Build Thread Click Here Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - Hit 1000 Miles 3-23-19

  7. #287
    Member VAHokie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Anti-Seize right????
    Yes! Darn auto correct.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9494 l Carb'd 306 l Mid-shift TKO600 l 3.55 IRS l P/S l Forte Hydraulic Clutch, Mechanical Throttle Linkage l RT Turn Signal, Drop Trunk l Breeze Lower Radiator Support, Fan Shroud l Boig Quiet Pipes l 18" Forgestar F14s

  8. #288


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post


    My curiosity got the better of me, and I wanted to see if I could get away with not cutting the threaded shafts of the UCA's, just shave off a bit from the adjuster sleeves. I made up an "X-Ray Vision" tube from some 3/4" EMT, to simulate the adjuster sleeve. I wound up cutting about 3/16" off each shaft, and basically removed the machined/turned down ends of the sleeves.

    **Note** If you look at one end of the sleeve, there's a groove machined into the round surface. This is the L.H. threaded end. Re-mark or pay attention upon re-assembly after cutting the sleeves.

    017.jpg 018.jpg

    The solution seems to be pretty consistent... I'd be pro-active and just do the mod now!
    So in other words you didn't believe me...

    Jeff

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  10. #289
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Of all the knuckleheads on this forum, you're one of the few I'll trust... but i still gotta prove it to myself. Can't get away from the ingrained machinist gotta know - believe it when I see it mentality.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  11. #290
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    So... as I'm sitting in a hotel room in Monrovia CA... 60+ deg's - while my wife is calling me asking where the heat gun is to thaw the frozen kitchen pipes (-25F ambient)... should I feel bad??
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  12. #291
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Welcome to California John! It was 70 here yesterday 2 hours north of you in Bakersfield. Today it’s pouring rain and 55.
    You can feel sorry for her for a minute...but enjoy it while you can. I feel sorry for you that you have to go back to that
    And everybody else that has to live and work in that stuff. I grew up in SoCal and this is about as far away as I wanna get from there.

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

  13. #292
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Well the "supercold" is gone, and it got to +35 over the weekend... just nice enough to melt sheit and then REFREEZE. Now we're getting snow at about 1"/hr over ICE.
    (Mother Nature is off her menopause meds again... hot/cold/hot/sweats/cold/whatever)

    I was finishing up a control panel pre-build in the 40 Watt and needed some hydrocarbon therapy. Reached over and fired up #9365 for some NOISE and fumes!!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  14. #293
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    The 40 Watt Garage - #9365 - Snowblower Repair

    It's been too damn cold to keep the heat up in the garage, and Mother Nature's been hitting us with anywhere from 2 to 6 inches of white stuff about every three days.
    I was clearing the driveway (again) and the machine was snagging on the expansion joints like crazy...

    After 10 years the front skids finally gave it up and wore through. Hey! I've got a project that generates heat!

    skids 001.jpgskids 002.jpgskids 003.jpgskids 004.jpgskids 005.jpgskids 007.jpgskids 008.jpg
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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  16. #294
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    Nice work! My snow blower has been working hard this winter as well. Almost a whiteout here just south of the Wisconsin border now. Need to get the drive cleared again because the Factory Five truck will be here on Tuesday!
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2-19-19
    1965 Mustang Convertible 4v 289
    Build Thread HERE

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    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Been a LONG time since an update... better part of 1-1/2 months (being 3 pages down on the thread proves this!) Between Mother Nature's tantrums and my work schedule there's been no time to tinker on #9365.
    (In all honesty this has been a good thing. I've found that on any major project, be it recreational or other - you just have to "walk away" from it from time to time. Clear your head, clean the shop, regroup, and use the time for doing something else.)

    I did have one Roadster-related day earlier this month. The guys & gals in my Chevelle Club have been nudging me to host a "Show N Tell" day at the 40 Watt Garage. They've all been very interested in the build, and now that the car is on it's wheels and runs, curiosity is high.

    I highly recommend hosting a get-together at your shop. At the very least it'll force you to clean the place up, put tools away, and have some interaction (instead of being a garage hermit!).
    Thank you's to "Mrs. Fixit" for making up a big crock-pot of chili and pan of cornbread, and not minding the crew tramping through the house!

    ShowNTell_190309_01.png ShowNTell_190309_02.png ShowNTell_190309_03.png ShowNTell_190309_04.png (I'm the one in the FFR shirt)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  18. #296
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Good to see you back....

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Build Thread Click Here Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - Hit 1000 Miles 3-23-19

  19. #297
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Glad to see you back John. Great workshop!
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Blueprint 427, TKO 600, IRS
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

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    John-

    I am certain it feels good to be back in the garage getting some items knocked off the checklist!

    Chili and corn bread, mmmmm way to go Mrs. Fixit!! That's a sure way to keep folks happy.

    Glad you are back at it, and I look forward to seeing your updates.

    Regards,

    Steve

  21. #299
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    That's great John, your shop looks very clean and organized. Gotta appreciate your wife!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

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    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    The 40 Watt Garage - #9365 - Front Lighting Harness

    Chipping away at the "final" punchlist before getting the body down out of the rafters and starting on that ughknown...

    One of the items was routing and locking down the front lighting harness to the frame tubes, and mounting the horns. Believe it or not this took the better part of a day!
    I didn't want to run the PS side wiring across/along the bottom of the radiator, I wanted to run it across the top. Where RF/FFR cuts in and taps off for the PS is in the wrong place for across the top, so I had to do some surgery on the harness. This also enabled me to break out the horn wires where I mounted the horns.

    F_Harness01.png This shows why I made the bracket for the Tilton reservoir as it is... built in wiring channel.
    F_Harness02.png Along the DS "F" panel

    F_Harness03.png Horns on the DS down-tube
    F_Harness04.png Backside of horns
    F_Harness05.png Across the upper radiator support using the screws for the upper mount
    F_Harness06.png Down the PS tube
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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  24. #301


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Nice work John! I prefer to run across the top also...and...if you use the Breeze radiator cowl cover they'll be hidden (in addition to cleaning up the whole area and promoting better cooling).

    https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...th-ffr-hinges/

    Cheers,
    Jeff

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    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    The 40 Watt Garage - #9365 - Initial Body Fitment

    I've spend the last few days/surftime going over several threads about the initial body fitting process. This is what I've come away with:
    - Install the foam stripping and bulb seal as described in the manual... however, it would be prudent to protect it in some way, either with poly sheet or something.
    - protect the top edge & face of the dash from scuffing.
    - the rolled lip of the dash and rear cockpit seem to cause some clearance issues.
    - if possible, have 4 people on hand... one front, one rear, and one on each side.

    Here's a question for y'all...

    Should I just scribe a line about 3/8" to 7/16" back from the rolled edges of the front & rear of the cockpit opening, and trim off the excess body material? Clean up the factory edge to a known clean edge & eliminate the (possible) clearance issues before even setting the body on?
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  26. #303
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Should I just scribe a line about 3/8" to 7/16" back from the rolled edges of the front & rear of the cockpit opening, and trim off the excess body material? Clean up the factory edge to a known clean edge & eliminate the (possible) clearance issues before even setting the body on?
    My experience with two Mk4's is the following: The dash lip I trimmed straight and clean back even to the shortest point, and fits with adequate clearance. Did the same with the rear edge, but in both cases ended up taking more in order to fit the rear wall and carpet underneath. You end up with less than a full round on each end, but still looks fine. Just watch the first install on the dash of course. It should clear OK but as you said don't want to mess up your dash. The rear cockpit wall you may have off/on a couple times (I have) but if still just plain metal can't really hurt anything. The rear wall is flexible in the middle, but not so much on the ends of course by the shoulder belts. So needs to have adequate clearance.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  27. #304


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Should I just scribe a line about 3/8" to 7/16" back from the rolled edges of the front & rear of the cockpit opening, and trim off the excess body material? Clean up the factory edge to a known clean edge & eliminate the (possible) clearance issues before even setting the body on?
    Yes in front, about 1/4" in back.

    Jeff

  28. #305
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul & Jeff...

    Another question:
    I've installed the Breeze Cubby divider panel, per the instructions at about 11" back... but now I'm looking at it and it seems to be quite a bit taller/proud than the cockpit rear wall and the trunk hinge hoop.
    Should the divider panel be the height/follow the contour as if I laid a straightedge from the cockpit wall onto the trunk hoop, or does the body rise in this space?
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  29. #306
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    The 40 Watt Garage - #9365 - Body Prep, lamps, etc.

    Been getting home early, so I enlisted the help of Mrs. Fixit to get the body down out of the rafters. The last couple of days has been spent fitting the lamp housings, fuel filler, and then prepping & coating the underside of the body.

    I had FFR cut the body openings. I think it was money well spent, they did a nice job. There is a "however"... the holes for the headlight buckets and lamp assemblies will take a little massaging to get perfect. They are a bit undersize for the buckets & housing to sit nice and flush to the body. Nothing that a carbide burr in the air die grinder didn't handle in a few seconds.
    Lights01.png

    I did a little custom mod to the fuel filler. I wanted the unit to sit in the fender with the hinge at 11:00, latch at 5:00... but this puts the drain hole at about 11:00, on the high-side (nothing will drain!). I went as far as taking the unit apart to try and "reclock" it. No go, the hole never wound up at the low point. Ok, fine - drill another hole.
    Here's the custom part. I didn't want any spilled gas just dribbling out inside the fender. I cut the nipple off of an 1/8" hose barb, threaded it 1/4-28, drill the proper hole in the filler and tapped it, and now I can put a length of hose on the filler and direct spills down & out.
    FuelCap01.png FuelCap02.png

    I then took all the shiny bits back off the car, got it off the sawhorses & buck, and turtle'd it. The next several hours were spent working on the underside.

    Per Jeff K & Paul's advise, I just went pro-active and shaved off about 3/8" of the dash rolled lip, and about 1/4" off the rear cockpit lip. There's still plenty of rolled edge, and it should now just be a matter of sanding for clearance, not surgery.
    I knocked all the boogers & stray strands down with some 80 grit, roughed everything up, vacuumed, and wiped it down with some acetone. The better part of a roll of tape, and on went the bedliner. I used the same stuff as the floorpans.
    I masked off around any edge that will need attention during finish bodywork. I don't want the product reacting to body & paint products, or getting in the way/causing extra work for Mr. Kleiner.
    Prep_01.png Prep_04.png Prep_05.png Prep_06.png Prep_07.png Prep_08.png

    This is the 1st coat. It will get at least one more, probably two.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  30. #307
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Looking great... Nice mod with the fuel filler drain.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Build Thread Click Here Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - Hit 1000 Miles 3-23-19

  31. #308


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    ...I masked off around any edge that will need attention during finish bodywork. I don't want the product reacting to body & paint products, or getting in the way/causing extra work for Mr. Kleiner....
    Thanks John! I just started one that didn't get that kind of attention and it's left me with a helluva mess

    Jeff

  32. #309
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Thanks John! I just started one that didn't get that kind of attention and it's left me with a helluva mess
    Just thinking ahead for the next guy... I figure I'll have to get in the wheelwells, etc., and "black-over" any overspray that gets by your masking, so I'll hit the spots that didn't get coated then.

    I layed another coat on this morning before leaving for work. When I got home everything was dry, so it was unmasked. Here's the result:
    Prep_09.png Prep_10.png
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  33. #310


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    ... I figure I'll have to get in the wheelwells, etc., and "black-over" any overspray that gets by your masking, so I'll hit the spots that didn't get coated then...
    No you won't. I do that.

    Jeff

  34. #311
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    No you won't. I do that.

    Jeff
    See.... Jeff is cool like that....

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Build Thread Click Here Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - Hit 1000 Miles 3-23-19

  35. #312
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Earlier yesterday afternoon I took some 6mil poly I scored from a jobsite and cuts some strips. I layed it over the bulb-seal and foam, and tacked it in place with some tape. This was done to give some "slippery" if I have to reef the body around to get it to set right.

    After dinner I enlisted the help of "Mrs. Fixit" and we set the body down over the frame.

    Holy Crap!! It looks like a car in the garage!
    BodyOn_01.png BodyOn_02.png BodyOn_03.png BodyOn_04.png BodyOn_05.png

    I was very surprised at how easily it popped down over the frame, and snuggled into position.
    I'll be working on getting it centered/squared the next few sessions, but all in all it looks good!!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  36. Likes Boydster, FF33rod liked this post
  37. #313
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    Looks fantastic, John!

  38. #314
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    The FFR manual is lacking about "body fitment".
    In my case, the rear of the car pretty much settled down into perfect. I opened up the rear QJ/Overrider holes just a touch and my bolts spun in without a problem.
    In the front is another story.
    The build manual has you install the foam stripping, and gives a very non-descript explanation of how to measure if the body is centered on the frame... even suggesting you run a few screws into the frame tubes to hold things in place.
    In my instance the body just snuggled down on the frame, and everything just seemed to line up perfectly - except the front QJ/Bumper mount holes! To get these bolts through the front end of the body needed to be raised about 5/8" (well above the foam strips).

    After a few well spent minutes on the phone with Jeff K., I got the "real" poop.

    The body DOES sit "proud" of the frame tubes near the radiator tube(s) transition, and if it doesn't you'll play hell with getting the hood to sit flat, due to the design of the hood hinges. As it turns out, the FFR drilled holes for the front QJ/Bumper bolts are SPOT ON. When I raised the front of the body to where the bolts/sleeves were centered in the holes all things were lined up.

    I just placed an order with FinishLine for their front grommets.
    These are now apparently essential in maintaining the alignment of the nose. The FFR provided steel "eyebrows" that sandwich into the frame mounts are (for all practical purposes) useless for holding the nose of the car in position. (how do they expect a few 10-32 machine screws through a lamp housing to hold the nose of a car in place...??) I'll use the eyebrows for an anchor point, but the grommets will be the main positioners.
    Last edited by Fixit; 04-14-2019 at 06:10 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  39. #315
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Another few hours on #9365 today... installing the side louvers.
    I'm kinda of mixed opinion/value here about having FFR cut these openings. Dimensionally they're good for the supplied "bend your own" louvers, but aren't quite nice for the aftermarket FinishLine/FFR upgrade louvers.
    With the holes already cut in the body, you're held hostage as to making the upgrade louvers fit... and on one or two corners you're really cutting it close for a nice fit with enough reveal of the body edge. At best it's a cosmetic compromise. You fit the upgrade louvers to make the best of the already cut holes.

    Without going into a "step by step", I traced the OD of the louver onto a piece of cardstock, cut it out on this line. Then took this template and made the best compromise of placement on the FFR cut out hole - all the while trying to maintain at least 1/8" to 3/16" of body material showing. (remember, my template was of the OD... there's 1/16" of aluminum, then the body edge). Using an air-recip saw and a Dremel w/ sanding drum I opened up the holes to fit my louvers.

    I made my own perf'd screw-stud gizmos from some material I had around (hate paying for something I can make), and used some panel bonding adhesive to mount them to the fenders.
    (Rather than riveting the "L" brackets to the louvers, I roughed up the "L's" and the louvers with 40g, and JB-Weld'd the "L's" to the louvers a few days ago).

    The adhesive I used has a 30 minute "open time", 2-hour "sand time" and after that you're screwed. Everything was dry-fitted before application of the glue.
    I used a length of aluminum channel and some velcro strapping to hold the pieces in place during cure. I also had a piece of poly sheet between the "L" and the bracket to prevent any squeeze-out from sticking to the louver.

    Louvers_01.jpg Louvers_02.jpg Louvers_03.jpg Louvers_04.jpg Louvers_05.jpg
    Last edited by Fixit; 04-14-2019 at 06:09 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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