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Thread: The 40 Watt Garage - #9365 - "It's in the Hole!"

  1. #201
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    I really like the "two-tone" approach for that back wall. I've been looking at mine off and on trying to decide if I want carpet all the way up. I think that is going to really look nice especially with matching tunnel cover.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  2. #202
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Finding that tile transition piece cemented the plan... the in-house Design Consultant (Mrs. Fixit) planted the seed about having the leather kinda "wrap around the car" up high - dash to door panels to upper rear wall a few weeks ago, and I agreed.

    The polished edge between the carpet & leather will also tie the small amount of "bling" (chrome bezels, door latches, rollbar) all around the cockpit.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  3. #203
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Finding that tile transition piece cemented the plan... the in-house Design Consultant (Mrs. Fixit) planted the seed about having the leather kinda "wrap around the car" up high - dash to door panels to upper rear wall a few weeks ago, and I agreed.

    The polished edge between the carpet & leather will also tie the small amount of "bling" (chrome bezels, door latches, rollbar) all around the cockpit.
    FYI, I'ma gonna steal this idea...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  4. #204
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Dash Upholstery

    Last weekend was spent upholstering the dash panel.

    I opted to use the FFR blank panel, and use a modified S/C layout. In a previous post I detailed the cutting of the gauge & switch holes.

    Materials:
    Vinyl or Leather of your choice
    Padding material of your choice
    3M “Super 77” spray adhesive
    Weldwood Contact Cement
    Good/Sharp scissors (not your wifes!)
    Supply of single-edge razor blades
    A few #11 X-Acto blades
    Heat Gun

    Several years ago I redid the floor in the breezeway with Pergo. I still had a length of the underlayment foam padding… hmmm. It’s about 1/8” thick, dense but with some “cush”, and doesn’t shred like other foam. This is what I used for the padding on the dash.
    The padding was attached using “77”, allowed to dry, and the holes cut out for the gauges, switches, and mounting screws.

    The vinyl is from our local JoAnn Fabrics – I purchased 3 yards.
    2 yard length (54” wide) is for the dash, trans tunnel, and rear cockpit wall
    1 yard length is on it’s way to Herb Fraser for door panels.

    A piece was cut with about 2” extra all around for the dash, the dash & vinyl sprayed with “77”, and allowed to tack up. The vinyl placed on the bench, and the dash carefully layed down.
    DashUphol01.png
    A stripe of contact cement was painted around the entire perimeter on the vinyl & dash, and allowed to dry (15 minutes min).

    The vinyl was worked/pulled/stretched and stuck to the dash – making pie cuts as needed, or playing it with a little heat to make it pliable for tight corners.
    **Be very careful using a heat gun!**
    DashUphol03.png

    Flashback… One of the things I did after cutting the holes and JB-Welding the mounting flanges to the aluminum panel was to bond several Ty-Rap cable clamps to the back of the dash. Anticipate possible places for wiring to be bundled, put a pea-sized blob of JB down, and press the clamp into the blob. The JB will squeeze up through the hole, and form a “rivet head”.

    Continue working around the perimeter, making cuts as needed, using heat as needed.
    DashUphol04.png

    The finished panel without holes
    DashUphol05.png DashUphol06.png

    Each gauge opening was painted with Contact Cement around the perimeter of the hole, and onto the vinyl. Pie-cuts were made, stopping about ” from the edge.
    The material was pulled/stretched over & around, and stuck to the aluminum.
    Each gauge was installed afterward, and snugged down (basically as a clamp).

    The switches are a bit tricky. There’s not a lot of room for error or forgiveness here, and you can’t pull the material through the hole like the gauges. The vinyl has to be trimmed just a hair smaller than the actual hole. The only thing holding the vinyl down is the retaining nut, and there’s not much of a flange there!
    DashUphol07.png

    The glovebox opening was next, and you can see the perimeter stripe of contact cement
    DashUphol08.png

    The finished product
    DashUphol13.png DashUphol11.png

    I decided to not use the FFR supplied turn & highbeam indicators or the Ford "MIL" lamp. I didn’t like their appearance, and the speedo has the turn & Highbeam indicators built in.

    On one of my scrounging sessions at a local surplus store, I scored a handful of these really neat “vintage” control panel indicator lamp bezels. They have a glass jewel, and just look period correct.
    I made up some housings for LED’s, and will be using these for “headlamp ON” and “MIL” indicators. They are flanking the Oil Pressure gauge.
    DashUphol12.png
    Last edited by Fixit; 11-15-2018 at 06:51 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  5. #205
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Electrics - Dash Harness

    I hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving, and has emerged from their "Food Coma" without any ill effects other than the scale going redline...

    11/25 - It's been awhile since an update on #9365, so here's the first of three.

    Wiring - This is where I'm my own worst enemy – an occupational by-product/hazard is I’m OCD about routing, labeling and neatness of cable routes and wiring.

    The supplied Ron Francis harness(es) are beautiful pieces of work, and being adaptable to more than one car is a great benefit to FFR and us. The circuit layout, connectors, and routing are simple and easy to follow/troubleshoot.
    However this “adaptability” pops off my OCD – extra length on pigtails, feeders not breaking out of the main harness at just the right spot, etc.
    (As supplied the harness will work perfectly for 99.9% of everyone out there… I’m just one of the .1% who’s a wiring geek and has to change things.)

    The way the harness is built (with the split-loom, taped tap-off’s/feeders, and being internally taped/ty-rap’d it’s pretty inflexible – it wants to lay in the way it’s set, and twisting it around is tough. I found that the feeders weren’t “pointed” in the direction I wanted, etc. when the loom was in place. Enter my OCD.

    I carefully cut the taped joints, and removed the split loom. As the split loom was removed, ty-raps were placed to hold the wiring, and preserve where feeders broke out of the main harness. The masking tape on the conductors (pre split loom) was also removed (this allows free twisting of the bundle, and removal of individual wires. I now have a basically “naked” harness – still as RF built it, but not in a strait-jacket.
    New breakouts for groups of wires were made as needed, trimmed to length, and ends installed
    DashWiring01.png

    Modifications:

    Trunk Courtesy Light & Backup Lights
    A “Hot At All Times (HAAT)” and “IGN” +12v are needed into the rear of the car.
    - I pulled back the supplied radio power & memory feed, and broke them out at where the rear harness plugs in.
    - A new connector was installed at this point

    Hot Rod Steering Column Connector & Turn Signal Indicators
    This connector is not used in the Roadster.
    On the Roadster, the turn signals & 4-ways are handled by toggle switches, or a combination of a toggle for the 4-ways, and RT’s column mounted VW switch.
    - With all the wrapping out of the way, I carefully pulled back on all of the “Hot Rod” column connector wiring and clipped them out of the harness
    - Ends were left about 3” long and capped off

    Dashboard turn & High Beam indicators can be individual lamps, use the ones integrated in the speedometer, or both.
    I chose to use the speedometer indicators & no outboard/dash mounted lamps.
    - The harness indicator feeds were trimmed back, and broken out of the harness behind the speedo.
    - A new 3-pin connector was installed on the harness leads and the speedo leads.



    Headlight Hi/Low Beam switching
    This can be done simply with the supplied toggle switch, or via a relay system using a light-duty momentary pushbutton (Russ Thompson or other). The relay system also adds the option of “Flash to Pass”.
    Via Toggle switch is straightforward – follow the assembly manual instructions.
    Via Relay system – a little bit of work is involved.

    Many builders have made up a sub-panel with terminal strips for the relay connections. Being a glutton for punishment I designed, etched & soldered up a circuit board with sockets for the required relays (Hi/Low beam & Flash-to-Pass) and removable terminal blocks for easy connection. The whole package is about 3” square. (It can be dropped out with 2 screws for access to the windshield post holes) I also included connection/pass-through points on the terminal blocks for the turn signal wiring - from the VW switch, FTP pushbutton, flasher feed, and out to the lamps - everything is in a neat little package.
    VW-FTP link

    DashWiring03.png DashWiring04.png

    The Coyote “connection to the vehicle” plug, and sub-harness with the clutch switch, MIL, etc. was unwrapped, and unnecessary lengths trimmed out. The big Ford plug was eliminated, and the wiring hard soldered to the RF harness at the appropriate points. Proprietary connectors (clutch switch, accelerator, etc.) were saved, and the wiring soldered & shrink wrapped back together. The Ford wiring was bundled with the RF wiring.
    The split loom was reinstalled, and the harness held down with ty-raps and Velcro tape
    DashWiring02.png

    The dashboard harness was put on a diet as well, and unnecessary lengths trimmed out when possible. The RF and SpeedHut wiring was secured to the dash panel with ty-rap clamps (JBwelded to the panel previously), ty-raps & Velcro tape.
    DashWiring05.png

    The dashboard was reinstalled, and connected
    DashWiring06.png
    Last edited by Fixit; 11-25-2018 at 08:56 AM. Reason: added link
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  6. #206
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Electrics - High Beam/Flash to Pass

    11/25 2 of 3

    (I'm using Russ Thompson's turn signal setup. He includes some very nice instructions on how to connect the High Beam & Flash to Pass wiring, but the diagram has a lot of "extra" stuff that may be confusing to some.)

    This is an explanation of how the VW Headlight Hi/Low relay and a Flash-to-Pass (FTP) relay interact, and how they will work when using a single momentary pushbutton to activate the circuit. I've included a schematic with just the basics needed to make the circuit work.

    VW Headlight Hi/Low Relay
    Part Numbers:
    VW # 111 941 583
    Standard Automotive Products # LR-35
    NAPA/Echlin # AR284
    Price ranges from $15 to $50

    This is a specialty relay – it is a mechanically latching or “toggle” type relay.
    Terminals:
    S = Relay Coil negative (-)
    30 = Relay Coil positive (+)
    56 = Relay Common
    56a = Relay Output #1
    56b = Relay Output #2

    Operation: (assuming 30 is energized with + voltage)

    • Apply a momentary (-) input to S and it will latch 56 to 56a (turning off 56b)
    • Apply another momentary (-) input to S and it will latch 56 to 56b (turning off 56a)

    Quirks:

    • It operates on a momentary input signal – not a constant trigger feed.
    • It doesn’t share the standard/common connector footprint of the other general purpose “Bosch-style” 5-pin relays


    Bosch/General Purpose Relay (5-pin, 20/30/40 Amp)
    Part Numbers: Too many to list
    They are available everywhere for $3 to $10. They are a staple-item in the automotive world.

    Terminals:
    86 = Relay Coil negative (-)
    85 = Relay Coil positive (+)
    30 = Relay Common
    87a = Normally Closed Relay Output
    87 = Normally Open Relay Output

    Operation: (assuming 85 is energized with + voltage)
    “At Rest” terminals 30 and 87a are connected

    • Apply (-) to 86 and the relay will change state – connecting 30 to 87
    • Remove (-) to 86 and the relay will de-energize – connecting 30 to 87a


    Circuit Operation – What the Momentary Pushbutton or Switch does:
    Headlights OFF – “Flash to Pass (FTP)” function is available.
    Action = Energizes Hi Beams for the duration of the input.

    The VW relay is inactive – it does not have +12v from the headlight switch to operate.
    The Bosch relay changes state, and momentarily sends +12v to the Hi Beam wiring

    Headlights ON - “Flash to Pass (FTP)” function is bypassed.
    Action = Toggles the VW relay between Hi & Low Beam wiring

    The VW relay is active – the headlight switch is now supplying +12v to its coil.
    The Bosch relay still changes state, but its output is over-ridden/negated by the VW relay.

    Purpose of the diode in the negative trigger feed between relays:
    Think of a diode as a “one-way” electricity valve. The diode in this case prevents residual or “breakdown” voltage from the relay coil(s) from messing with each other – causing unwanted or erratic operation.

    VW_FTP-diagram.jpg
    Last edited by Fixit; 11-25-2018 at 08:25 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  7. #207
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Electrics - Cubby & Trunk Lighting

    11/25 3 of 3

    When I routed the rear harness I also included a few wires that weren’t “factory” supplied. These were inserted in the loom at the rear harness connector behind the dash and a 2-pin connector installed:

    • A “HAAT” (hot at all times) +12v feeder
    • A “IGN” (switched) +12v feeder

    I repurposed the “Radio Memory” and “Radio Power” wires for this duty.

    Additionally, a tap was made off of one of the brake light feeders with a length of 18ga, for a future “3rd Brake Light”. All of these wires were combined into the “Licence Light” loom, and routed together. These wires were broken out in the trunk area near the passenger side rollbar outrigger post.
    RT_Trunk07.jpg

    The harness was routed up onto the trunk hinge hoop, using ty-rap clamps. A small 2-post terminal block was installed on the forward face of the hoop for connections.

    Cubby Hole Lighting
    I made up a small “Z” bracket for a toggle switch, and installed it on the rear cockpit wall hoop. A length of LED strip lighting was stuck down, and the wiring routed over (under the carpet) to the trunk terminal block.
    Cubby01.png Cubby02.png Cubby03.png Cubby04.png

    The switch is just visible from the passenger compartment. I can now finalize the divider wall installation.

    Trunk Lighting
    A little “L” bracket was made up, and a small micro-switch mounted to it. I found the switch on a scrounging session at a local surplus outfit. AXMAN
    The mounting hole for the bracket is slotted, and the switch was adjusted so the trunk hinge arm makes/breaks contact with the arm on the switch. Wiring for this and the cubby switch was landed on the terminal block (just out of frame to the left of the hinge).
    Trunk01.png Trunk02.png Trunk04.png Trunk05.png

    Last edited by Fixit; 11-25-2018 at 08:26 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  8. #208
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Replacement Voltage Inverter

    Received my replacement voltage inverter from SpeedHut today. I was wiped out from work today, but couldn't resist installing it and checking it out

    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  9. #209
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Front "Switchback" LED's

    (Since I had the cell-camera out, and was editing video anyway, I decided to shoot a bit about the front LED lamps I chose to run. I was going to clean up a little, and "produce" a more structured movie, but nahhhh! The shop's usually a mess, I'm usually a mess, and that's my story and I'm sticking to it!)

    I purchased the clear front lenses via Roger's Motors, and the LED switchbacks from SuperBrightLED

    I've had this type of LED lamp in the front of my '13 F-150 for years, and I really like them. They serve like Daytime Running Lights (DRL) whenever the vehicle's "on", and automatically flip to amber on a turn signal or hazards condition.
    They do require an ignition switched +12v source, which can be tapped into the main front harness parking light wire (before it splits L & R). It is imperative that "blocking" diodes be installed on the source and parking light wire(s) to prevent a backfeed to the rear taillights and other ignition switched circuits.

    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  10. #210
    Straversi's Avatar
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    That’s a nice feature. Very cool.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  11. #211
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Milestone... We have a ROLLER!!

    Well I bit the bullet, and after triple checking that I'd not have to do anything "major" under the car I rigged up the crane & floor jack and took #9365 down off the dolly!

    Roller01.png

    I only had to raise it about 1" to clear the "saddles" in the uprights, and slide the dolly out sideways. Then a little bit front, rear, repeat and it's on the wheels.

    Roller02.png

    IT IS SO WEIRD TO HAVE IT DOWN NEAR RIDE-HEIGHT!

    Since July it's been about 20" off the ground while getting it to this stage, and now it actually is looking like a vehicle, not a project on a stand.

    Roller03.png Roller04.png

    Now to get Mr. Wile E. Coyote off his dolly, and into the chassis (maybe ACME tools can help?)
    Last edited by Fixit; Yesterday at 04:09 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  12. Likes PeteMeindl liked this post
  13. #212
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    Congrats, John! That's great news. Yeah, i can only imagine how weird it must be to have the car down low. Sometimes i feel like i'm working on what's going to be a jeep since it's always lifted up off the ground on the dolly. Nice going!

  14. #213
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Yay!! The first time mine hit the ground, I was surprised at how low and little it looked. And the suspension was still too high. Congrats and keep on trucking....
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  15. #214
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Only 1 minor mishap...
    I get it down on the ground, and try and roll it a few feet. It moves about 6", and there's this "jerk/stop" then it moves. Then another foot, and "jerk/stop" move. WTH?? And now it rolls freely.

    As it was rolling I heard two clunks as something hit the floor.

    Both rear wheel weight balance strips got sheared off by the calipers - they were stuck on in an "interference" area of the wheel!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  16. #215
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - "It's in the Hole!"

    Got home from work, had dinner, and decided to jig up the engine on the chains/leveler to get ready for a thrash session tomorrow.
    After a couple of up & down sessions off the dolly to get the chains set right I decided "why not".

    Believe it or not this was one of the EASIEST engine/trans combinations to slide into place! Literally no cussing involved, and nothing scuffed up or damaged - just a slow-dance between lowering, tilting, easing in, repeat... total time was less than an hour.

    Install_01.jpgInstall_02.jpgInstall_03.pngInstall_04.jpgInstall_05.pngInstall_06.jpgInstall_07.pngInstall_08.jpgInstall_09.jpgInstall_10.jpg

    The only item that wound up being a clearance "issue" going in was (of all things) the side drain plug on the pan. I had to remove it for the oil pan to snuggle past the motor mount risers on the frame.
    Last edited by Fixit; Yesterday at 06:06 PM. Reason: Oil pan plug clarification
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  17. Likes Mark Eaton liked this post
  18. #216


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Yep, that's how it's supposed to work

    Jeff

  19. #217
    Senior Member BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Wow, that's kinda how mine ended up in the hole. I still do not see how you guys get the headers on the DS with those... Looks great!!!

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18 Started 8/19/18 First Start 11-1-18
    Build Thread Click Here

  20. #218
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Nice work John. Big milestone on the build! Hopefully I'll be there before Xmas break is over.
    MKIV Roadster - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  21. #219
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    Awesome! Congrats, John - that's great news!

  22. #220
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Very impressive
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  23. #221
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Had another productive day in the 40 Watt Garage...

    Mr. Wile E. Coyote is now bolted in, and locked down. Spent the next few hours finalizing everything from the bellhousing aft.
    - The transmission "A-Frame" is in place
    - Hydraulic line from the clutch master is on the slave, and the clutch system filled & bled.
    - Driveshaft is installed
    - Transmission is filled with nearly 3qts. of Mobil 1 Synth ATF
    - Sat in the car and made lots of vroomvroom noises while rowing some gears!!

    Questions for the group... I'm running the IRS rear axle.

    The trans A-frame, mount adapter plate, and mount all went in "as spec'd" by FFR (meaning this on top of that, etc.). But as bolted in, my forward driveshaft yoke hit the bigazz 4" cross-tube on the frame. I had to fab up a 1/4" thick spacer plate to go under/between the mount and A-frame for spin clearance.
    - I haven't checked driveline angles at all yet... I know there's going to be some shimming involved here.
    - Is this common?
    - What's a typical amount?

    Clutch
    I'm using Forte's hydraulic setup. Again, this is 3 minutes into the install... no adjustments yet.
    - Surprised at the effort needed for a "juice" clutch... reminds me of a mechanical.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  24. #222
    edwardb's Avatar
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    My Coyote/TKO/IRS Roadster build needed a 3/4-inch spacer to raise the transmission tailshaft over the 4-inch tube and to the proper pinion angle. A spacer is normal for a TKO. You'll see it described in nearly every build thread. Not sure why it isn't mentioned in the instructions.

    Lots of variables that contribute to clutch effort. I've had both cable and hydraulic in these builds. Can't say that I've noticed a huge difference in effort of hydraulic over a well routed and quality cable setup. There are other advantages and I prefer hydraulic. But it's still a pretty good push.
    Last edited by edwardb; Yesterday at 08:29 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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