FormaCars

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  2
Likes Likes:  1
Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 80 of 237

Thread: 3/17/2018 complete date for my MK4......delivery by April!

  1. #41
    wareaglescott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    Posts
    1,816
    Post Thanks / Like
    Congrats on your arrival. Very organized looking work space!
    I am going to need a picture of whatever the spare Audi tires go on
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  2. #42
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    Congrats on your arrival. Very organized looking work space!
    I am going to need a picture of whatever the spare Audi tires go on
    Here you go Scott....S3 is my daily and the R8 has never seen rain!

    IMG_1926.jpgIMG_2542.jpg

  3. #43
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    Do you have plans for this frame stand? I really like the wood on casters to make the build easier, but I didn't know where to place the supports. I think I like the height of this as well.
    Hey doddmoore,

    I used plans from one of the guys on this forum that I found. Let me see if I can locate for you.

    Steve

  4. #44
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Ok.....so an issue that does not make sense to me. The Wilwood brakes from Gordon do not fit properly over the rear wheel hub. The hole in the hat is too big. They fit the front rotors perfect but not the back. Did he send me the wrong hat for the rotor? The hub came from ford and they were in the box with my rear spindle so I know they are the rear wheel hub. See pics below.

    IMG_2636.jpgIMG_2637.jpg

    Also, the rear wheel studs came out of the hub pretty easy with my vise and lump hammer. Pressing the new ones in is almost impossible. Any comments? Here is a pic of the stud. Could it be the wrong size? I'm using my vise as a press along with a socket. It will not sit flush......and I was using a lot of pressure.

    IMG_2638.jpg

    Here is a pic of my hub part number....that could be wrong also. With the studs not pressing in I'm thinking it might be the hub.....

    hub.jpg

    I guess it's also possible that the hat is centered using the lug nuts as they do fit snug. I'm going to attempt to pull the studs into the hub using my impact gun. Once I confirm that all the parts I have are correct of course.
    Last edited by stevant; 04-08-2018 at 11:10 AM.

  5. #45
    wareaglescott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    Posts
    1,816
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Here you go Scott....S3 is my daily and the R8 has never seen rain!

    IMG_1926.jpgIMG_2542.jpg
    Very nice. Had an S5 I recently traded for a 911.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  6. #46
    edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    5,227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Ok.....so an issue that does not make sense to me. The Wilwood brakes from Gordon do not fit properly over the rear wheel hub. The hole in the hat is too big. They fit the front rotors perfect but not the back. Did he send me the wrong hat for the rotor? The hub came from ford and they were in the box with my rear spindle so I know they are the rear wheel hub.

    Also, the rear wheel studs came out of the hub pretty easy with my vise and lump hammer. Pressing the new ones in is almost impossible. Any comments? Here is a pic of the stud. Could it be the wrong size? I'm using my vise as a press along with a socket. It will not sit flush......and I was using a lot of pressure.

    I guess it's also possible that the hat is centered using the lug nuts as they do fit snug. I'm going to attempt to pull the studs into the hub using my impact gun. Once I confirm that all the parts I have are correct of course.
    It takes quite a bit of pressure to pull those studs into the hub. I doubt they would go in using your vise. I've had good luck using an impact wrench. They pull right in. I use a couple of hardened washers, a hardened nut, and coat the parts with grease before using the wrench. Don't use one of your lug nuts unless you want to chew it up pretty good.

    You don't want that hat being centered only with the wheel lugs. It should register on the hub center. Assuming Gordon sent you the right part, Wilwood sells various sizes of registration rings. https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-ring-adapters. FWIW, the Wilwood brakes FF supplies use a registration ring on the front hub, but not on the back. So it's not an unusual problem.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  7. #47
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Gordon just got back to me. These rear rotors and hats are lug centric not hub centric so all is good. He has never needed a spacer. He can try and get one which I might, just need to give him the size. He says I don't need it. I'm feeling better now. Meanwhile the studs pulled right into the hub using the impact wrench.....Thanks!!!

    IMG_2640.jpg

  8. #48
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    I just ordered these, according to my measurements they should do the trick! Even though I don't need them I would rather the rotor hat fitting snug around the hub.

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-300-11337

    Thanks again Paul!!

  9. #49
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Some more progress to report. I completed Gordon's rear spindle modification for the IRS with the 15" wheels. All looks good. See attached pics.

    IMG_2647.jpgIMG_2644.jpg

  10. #50
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Tonight I assembled my UCA's. They came upside down from FFR so I had to disassemble and reassemble correctly, no biggie. I did go with Pauls choice of upper ball joints and installed the Howe HRE-22320S. They screwed in effortlessly and as you can see in the pic I bought the tool to tighten them in. Who doesn't like a new specialty socket! I also purchased the ball joint boots, Energy 5.13102G. Paul, maybe you can confirm these are the correct boot for this ball joint. The passenger side UCA is the one on top and the drivers side is on the bottom. If anyone sees anything that is not correct please let me know. Will snug up with rough dimensions once installed.

    IMG_2671.jpg

  11. #51
    edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    5,227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Tonight I assembled my UCA's. They came upside down from FFR so I had to disassemble and reassemble correctly, no biggie. I did go with Pauls choice of upper ball joints and installed the Howe HRE-22320S. They screwed in effortlessly and as you can see in the pic I bought the tool to tighten them in. Who doesn't like a new specialty socket! I also purchased the ball joint boots, Energy 5.13102G. Paul, maybe you can confirm these are the correct boot for this ball joint. The passenger side UCA is the one on top and the drivers side is on the bottom. If anyone sees anything that is not correct please let me know. Will snug up with rough dimensions once installed.
    Looking good. 5.13102G are the UCA ball joint boots I've used as well on several builds. Hopefully you used plenty of Loctite on those ball joints and it's also recommended to put a witness mark on the ball joint and plate so you can monitor and make sure they aren't loose and/or backing out. I haven't had any issues with mine, but several builders have reported that. Not just the Howe ball joint. Any of them. Some even recommend a welding tack joint, but I haven't gone that far. Just something to keep in mind.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  12. #52
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    I used the loctite blue, but can back out and use red if you think. The Howe ball joints move so smoothly, I can't even budge the Mevotech ball joints with my hands at all. I assume the Howe should move so freely..........

    Do you think I will have any problem torquing them down to 75 lbs. without the ball tuning in the socket?
    Last edited by stevant; 04-11-2018 at 08:33 AM.

  13. #53
    edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    5,227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    I used the loctite blue, but can back out and use red if you think. The Howe ball joints move so smoothly, I can't even budge the Mevotech ball joints with my hands at all. I assume the Howe should move so freely..........

    Do you think I will have any problem torquing them down to 75 lbs. without the ball tuning in the socket?
    I've used blue in mine and haven't seen any movement. I only use red when specifically instructed (e.g. Wilwood) or basically if I don't plan to have to take it apart again. That stuff is tough. Yes, the Howe joints move nice and free right out of the box. But as long as they don't have any slop (mine sure don't...) they should be good to go. I suspect the others would be much looser once they have a little road time. 75 lbs sounds about right. I don't have a fancy socket for mine () so they get a good grunt with a large combination wrench. No possibility for a torque wrench.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  14. #54
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    So, in case I forgot to mention, my Koni shocks along with my lower control arms are on backorder so I'm finding other things to do before I start the build from the beginning. I started prepping the pedal box by painting the steel brackets with epoxy paint.

    IMG_2680.jpg

    Thanks to Paul for telling me about the Wilwood Registration Rings. I found the one I needed for my Gordon Levy Rear brake setup and they work perfect.......thanks for the lesson Paul!!

    IMG_2673.jpg

    Lastly for the night, my sons and I discussed the undercarriage of the car and what we wanted to see when completed. We unaminously decided that we like the contrast and colors of the different materials of the undercarriage of a car. Since everything is new, it will look like Jewelry under there. I don't want to paint everything black because then it all blends........IMO of course. We have decided to go ahead and clear the majority of the major components as to see them against the powder coated frame and other metals, it's a look that we like. Nothing will be left in raw metal as we don't want anything to rust. This car will never see rain so I'm not worried about excessive water exposure but with a durable clear coat on things, it will be fine. I completed our IRS Center section bracket so we can now work like gentleman moving that beast around. We are going to clear that also with an epoxy based clear coat. The finish on there works well under the car.

    IMG_2677.jpgIMG_2678.jpg

    I rolled the stand under the car so I could imagine it in place!!!!!!

    IMG_2679.jpg

  15. #55
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Frisco, TX
    Posts
    318
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looking good! But I think that custom-made rolling diff stand is a little over the top! I thought I was fancy when I throw a couple pieces of 2x4 on a furniture dolly so that I could roll my trans around on it

  16. #56
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have issues..... lol. Could be worse...it’s the cabinet maker in me!

  17. #57
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    My son and I were able to remove the shell from the frame. We set it up on top of our body buck and placed it into our storage tent. It should be fine there until we need it, at least I hope.

    IMG_2684.jpgIMG_2683.jpgIMG_2685.jpg

    We will start marking out our panels at start drilling...and drilling........and yes more drilling. Still not sure of the finish for the panels. I like the aluminum look but want it to have a little more durability than just raw aluminum. Powder coat like others, undercoat one side, clear the engine bay side. Need to make a decision.

    IMG_2687.jpgIMG_2686.jpg

    I cleared my rear center section with epoxy clear. I really like the way it turned out. Great coloring with the black frame and a nice durable shine.

    IMG_2694.jpgIMG_2695.jpgIMG_2696.jpg

    More progress tomorrow.......

  18. #58
    edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    5,227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Center section looks great. Including the rolling stand. Hopefully you put some clear on that nice shiny pinion flange too. Can't tell from the pics. Those turn rusty almost immediately once it hits the street.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  19. #59

    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    74
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Center section looks great. Including the rolling stand. Hopefully you put some clear on that nice shiny pinion flange too. Can't tell from the pics. Those turn rusty almost immediately once it hits the street.
    I am planning on painting my center section this weekend, was planning POR for the iron and clear on the rear aluminum. However, I assumed i needed to cover/avoid the pinion flange. Is there a proper taping plan to avoid the gear part of the flange and just hit the outer rim then?

    Thanks
    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  20. #60
    edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    5,227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Fabb View Post
    I am planning on painting my center section this weekend, was planning POR for the iron and clear on the rear aluminum. However, I assumed i needed to cover/avoid the pinion flange. Is there a proper taping plan to avoid the gear part of the flange and just hit the outer rim then?

    Thanks
    -B
    With a little bit of care I don't think it's a big deal. There's a plastic piece between the pinion flange and the actual case. I assume it's part of the underlying bearing and seal. When I've done mine, I mask on one side to paint the case and mask on the other side when painting the pinion flange. Visible in this pic and obvious that I avoided it. No other moving parts or anything to be concerned with IMO.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  21. #61
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the kind words Paul. I did indeed clear the pinion flange so all is protected.

  22. #62
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm starting on the rear of the car since I don't have my front lower control arms. I also don't have my shocks but at least I'm able to get a good portion of the rear so I'm just not sitting around. I was able to install the center section this morning. I was anticipating a struggle after reading some of the other installs, fortunately mine went in with relatively minimal manipulation.

    IMG_2704.jpgIMG_2705.jpgIMG_2706.jpg

    Tonight I was able to install the upper and lower control arms along with the toe-arms. The mount tabs had to be spread in a few areas but in general they were not too bad. Will torque the bolts tomorrow after I grease the fittings. Axles and Knuckles on tap for tomorrow night.

    IMG_2707.jpg

  23. #63
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    I was able to get the axles installed tonight along with the rear spindles. I greased all the rear fittings and torqued all the control arm bolts but not the bolts on the spindles. Still waiting for my shocks to come in. Im going to keep working on items that I can. Once I get my front end pieces I can move forward with that also. I'm probably going to assemble the gas tank next. I'm going to complete the rear bumper mounts like Paul did as once the tank is installed, getting to the rear bumper bolts will require dropping the tank. Not a good option. I'll go with Pauls idea instead!!

    IMG_2709.jpgIMG_2710.jpgIMG_2711.jpgIMG_2712.jpg

  24. #64
    edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    5,227
    Post Thanks / Like
    Looking good! Full disclosure. Appreciate the shout out, but the coupler thing for the rear bumpers isn't my idea. Not sure who came up with it. It's one of many great mods that's been bouncing around on the forums for a long time.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  25. #65
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not much to report tonight other than a lesson learned. I was so excited last night when I completed the rear that when I looked into the rear sway bar, the mounts use the same bolts as the lower control arms and the toe-bar. So.........out they came and in went the mounts. Not too big a deal just a little extra muscle as everything was nicely torqued.

    IMG_2715.jpgIMG_2717.jpg

    I also went ahead and ran my center section vent.............until tomorrow!!

    IMG_2718.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  26. #66
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    For those using a sway bar, you know what this picture is and you surely know how difficult it is to cut. Can't wait to do the front......

    IMG_2720.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  27. #67
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    I started painting my F panels last night, like Papa, I’m using Rustoleum Bed liner paint. I really like the finish. The one thing in addition is I’ll be going over it with Eastwood matte expoxy clear. It is very durable and will give much better protection from scratches. It really enhances the durability. I’ll also be using black rivets.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  28. #68
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    My lower control arms came in today along with my sway bar bushings. Not too much building going on tonight except for that. I did put a coat of clear epoxy on the sway bar brackets. I rethought my decision in the post above and I'm going to powder coat my panels. I found a local guy who will powder coat them to look just like the bed liner paint that Papa used. I was going to go that route but if I could get the same look with greater durability, I have to go with the better option. I'll post pics of my F panels as soon as I pick them up.

    IMG_2749.jpgIMG_2750.jpgIMG_2751.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  29. #69
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Still waiting on some parts, continuing to drill panel holes and use my Cleco's. Trimmed and fit my firewall support. Mounted the front sway bar along with the steering rack. Had to remove the stock bushings from the rack to install the supplied ones from FFR. Assembled my fuel filter and ready to mount! Going to clear coat the tie-rod ends too, pic is showing ready to be sprayed in the morning.......just keep plugging away!!

    IMG_2753.jpgIMG_2762.jpgIMG_2769.jpgIMG_2773.jpgIMG_2774.jpgIMG_2775.jpgIMG_2778.jpgIMG_2779.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  30. #70
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Still waiting for my Koni's along with my 15" wheels. Once the Koni's come I'll be able to complete the suspension. Hopefully the wheels come so I can make this a rolling chassis. My powder coated F panels came back and I could not be happier. They look great. Going to be dropping off the majority of them later this week. Only a few more panels to drill and that will be that..............I know I'm preaching to the choir, there are a lot of holes to drill!!! Ran my front brake lines. Followed Paul's routing along with the retaining clips. Tapped into the frame. They really look good. Gas tank is assembled. Internal Walbro 255 on the hanger, that was a bit of work to get that into the hole. Don't want to have to pull that out. I also removed the ABS ring from my front hubs. Used my wheel puller. I cleaned them up and spayed them with some clear. Trying to preserve all in it's original metal finish.

    Here are attached pics of my progress.

    546822429.jpg546824285.jpg546824335.jpgIMG_2817.jpgIMG_2819.jpgIMG_2820.jpgIMG_2821.jpgIMG_2822.jpgIMG_2823.jpgIMG_2825.jpg

    .....a few more in the next post.
    Last edited by stevant; 04-30-2018 at 08:50 PM.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  31. #71
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  32. #72
    Boydster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Glen Burnie, MD
    Posts
    672
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice work on the brake lines. Looks nice.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  33. #73
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thank you........ right tools always help! Edward b made it easy for me to reference with his 20th anniversary build.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  34. #74
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Frisco, TX
    Posts
    318
    Post Thanks / Like
    Question, why remove the ABS rings? Also, did you run stainless brake lines? Looking good!

  35. #75
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks!!.....,Since I will not be using them, they serve no purpose. I was not happy seeing that ring around the hub . Yes, those are and will be all SS brake lines. Will do the same with the gas line.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  36. #76
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    So, I was able to mount my front spindles tonight. Upper and lower ball joints fell in place. Steering linkage went well, torqued my hub to 250 ft lbs. Rotors are on temporarily for the look. Just waiting on my Koni's all around and we'll have a rolling chassis. ( Need my wheels too) I do have one concern and the attached pics will show it. All in all everything mounts one way so there really is not too much that can go wrong in regard to placement of the components. My upper control arms are in spec to the manual so I'm a little confused with the wheel camber at this point. With all sides being the same and the adjustments equal, the camber should be consistent on both sides. Am I thinking through this correctly? What can deviate it other than the upper control arm settings, right? There are no other adjustable components. Take a look at the level in the photos. my passenger side has much more camber than my drivers side and all is the same. Any one have an explanation as to why that might be?

    Here are the pics of tonights work.

    IMG_2843.jpgIMG_2844.jpgIMG_2845.jpgIMG_2846.jpgIMG_2847.jpgIMG_2848.jpgIMG_2849.jpgIMG_2850.jpgIMG_2851.jpgIMG_2852.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  37. #77
    wareaglescott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Auburn, AL
    Posts
    1,816
    Post Thanks / Like
    IS the car sitting perfectly level on the frame dolly?
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

  38. #78
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Great point Scott........ even though the car is level to the dolly, the dolly is not level to the floor. My garage floor slopes. I jacked up my frame and made it perfectly level. With all settings the same on both sides, my level was within a tolerance which I assume is more manageable. My right rotor still has more camber but it’s about 1/32- 1/16 more than the left at the top of the rotor.

    I guess I should not be concerned? I’m using tools with tolerances to make furniture, I’m sure more accurate measuring devices will show much better results........I hope!!
    Last edited by stevant; 05-02-2018 at 06:38 AM.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  39. #79
    Boydster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Glen Burnie, MD
    Posts
    672
    Post Thanks / Like
    Small changes can make big differences when it comes to adjustments on the front end. When you say all is equal, are you counting threads? Every adjustment affects all other adjustments... is the caster the same? Is the toe the same? The dolly may be perfectly level.. is the floor? When I did my alignment, I was turning the adjusters 1 flat at a time for fine adjustments... and yes, it mattered.

    IMHO, I think you are way too early to be concerned about this. You need weight on wheels, ride height set and steering centered in the frame before getting to this point. Anything can make the adjustment change...

    edit: My build has been ongoing for 14 months now, and I only did the alignment about 2 months ago. I left the wheels lookin all wonky and out of whack and not worried about it until it was time to do so.
    Last edited by Boydster; 05-02-2018 at 06:46 AM. Reason: added comment
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  40. #80
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    268
    Post Thanks / Like
    Point we’ll taken and thanks for the support. Too much OCD at this point. I have to believe in the design and specs of the things I can’t change. (Upper and lower control arms, spindles, etc). As long as they are within their production tolerances I know the alignment will work out fine once it’s ready to complete. These are all bolt on parts so hard to really mess that up. Unless you are drilling out your mounting points, all will be fine. No more placing the cart before the horse!

    I’ll keep moving on with my build!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Flat Irons Tuning

Visit our community sponsor