Cunifer brake lines (Copper-Nickel, Nicopp, etc..) who has run them?

[shark92651]

I've been reading about copper-nickel alloy brake lines and how easy they are to work with and have nearly the PSI of steel brake lines, no rust, etc... Who has used them and what are your thoughts vs steel and stainless steel? Any reason NOT to use them?

[lance corsi]

I'm using it all round. Fuel lines & brake lines. It comes in lots of sizes and lengths. Sold at Fedhill.com

[CraigS]

I have been using them for a couple of years when I replace a line. I love the stuff since it is so easy to work with. My car originally had SS lines and they were an absolute bear to get flares formed and sealing. The NiCopp from Advance Auto is not even very expensive. No steel for me ever again.

[BDHoneyman]

I used it on my build and it was substantially easier to use than the steel. I purchased a 25 ft. roll from Westocktools for $20.00 and an Eastwood tubing straightener for (gulp) $80. The 25 ft. was enough for the roadster. It was also much easier to flair than the steel and to make tight bends (and corrections) than steel.

NiCopp.JPG

Eastwood.JPG

In place.JPG

-Bruce

[SelectivePC]

I used it on my build and it was substantially easier to use than the steel. I purchased a 25 ft. roll from Westocktools for $20.00 and an Eastwood tubing straightener for (gulp) $80. The 25 ft. was enough for the roadster. It was also much easier to flair than the steel and to make tight bends (and corrections) than steel.

NiCopp.JPG

Eastwood.JPG

In place.JPG

-Bruce

Are you using a manual flaring tool Honeyman?? If so what type, my hydraulic one needs way more of a neck to grab the tube then this shown in your pictures, also my manual one from Craftsman still needs more then yours.

[BDHoneyman]

I'm using the OTC 4503 double flaring tool, about $25:

OTC 4503.JPG

I practiced quite a bit before I felt I could make a good double flare. I found the key to be a clean cut with a tubing cutter (I got a wheel for steel), a slight chamfer on the outer edge of the tubing and deburring the tube. Since the NiCopp is softer than steel tubing I think it seats better into fittings.

-Bruce

[BDHoneyman]

SelectivePC:

I forgot to add-- I used wire to figure out the length of tubing that I needed and did the flares on the straight pieces before I bent them. So, for the short piece in the last photo of my first post, I figured I needed a piece about 6" in total length, including allowing for the reduction in length due to the flares, made flares on both ends and then bent the tubing into the 'U' shape that you see. The flaring tool needs 3/4" - 1" of a straight tubing section to hold the tubing and allow for material to make the flare.

-Bruce

[JRL16]

I used it for my brake lines but I went with stainless for the fuel line. Flairing the nickel/copper lines is easier. Just don't use too much turning pressure on step 2 of your flairing. You want the tubing to seat when it's fastened so easy on step 2. Good luck.

[NukeMMC]

Brake lines are cunifer. The fuel line that runs along the frame rails is the coated steel that i have also painted on top of.

[Murd]

I used it for fuel lines. I had already done the brake lines but if I did it again I would also use it for brakes.
I also used some for my wiper tubes since I didn’t have a flaring tool for the stainless the wipers come with.

[flynntuna]

I'm using it all round. Fuel lines & brake lines. It comes in lots of sizes and lengths. Sold at Fedhill.com

Interesting that they have a rental program for a flaring tool.
https://cunifer.com/about-us