Lowback roadster seats, right? I installed sliders in one I built a few years ago---I think they came from Summit; they look about the same as the number you posted. You may have to get a little creative and make up some simple brackets for mounting, although with the larger floor plate on later Mk4s some of that might not be necessary. Go to the "indy14" build thread linked to my signature below and you'll find text and photos beginning around post #13.
BTW, the owner reports that since he drove the car out of my garage he has adjusted the seat exactly zero times...
BTW, the owner reports that since he drove the car out of my garage he has adjusted the seat exactly zero times...
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. I agree, if I don't install the sliders I will drill/bolt the seat 1/2" off.
If I install the sliders I will never move it. Works for me
Ohh, interesting, I thought I would just center the seat in be done. But I need to consider the floor shape, not the overall look. It may look crooked compare to body.
I used Jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...70220/10002/-1 They work fine. I did move the adjuster rod on the passenger side to the outside rail. (deleted the 'pull' cable from the opposite rail, and put in a 'push' bar to the other rail.)
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Something else to consider; some race tracks require dual locking seat sliders. I don't think the FFR sliders are dual locking.
Last edited by Yama-Bro; 03-01-2018 at 02:36 PM.
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022 Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
Thanks all for your feedback. I am just going take a chance and bolt it in place. If I am slightly off, I can adjust the pedals as well.
Do not make anything permanent without the body on. Even the lowbacks have the potential for conflict with the body's rear cockpit corner and door if not positioned properly.
Do not make anything permanent without the body on. Even the lowbacks have the potential for conflict with the body's rear cockpit corner and door if not positioned properly.
I used Jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...70220/10002/-1 They work fine. I did move the adjuster rod on the passenger side to the outside rail. (deleted the 'pull' cable from the opposite rail, and put in a 'push' bar to the other rail.)
Did you also use part 70225 - the stationary pedestal seat mount, or did you find that part unnecessary?
Thanks,
RJD
MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.
Did you also use part 70225 - the stationary pedestal seat mount, or did you find that part unnecessary?
Thanks,
RJD
Just the sliders. The slider bolted to the floor, and the seat bolted to the slider. I haven't layed down the carpet yet, but I don't foresee a problem. (how many times have I said that....)
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Do not make anything permanent without the body on. Even the lowbacks have the potential for conflict with the body's rear cockpit corner and door if not positioned properly.
Jeff
How does one secure the seat temporarily during go-karting phase before the body goes on?
With previous cars I had sliders, perhaps not necessary once the seat is properly located but...
I found that it took a bit to find the comfortable position, once dialed in I didn't change much. But the real value for me was being able to slide the seat full forward for those times (multiple and often) when I lost something behind the seats. Being able to move the seat forward made locating the item much easier.
I'm using these: Sparco 00493 Seat Glides https://www.rallylights.com/sp00493-seat-track-set.html $80 each.
Well-built with solid adjustment locks on both rails. Rails can be spaced as necessary, and the locking handle can be modified for width.
Will be combined with Kirkey 65 Series Adjustable Road Race Seat and their seat mounts. This is the current FFR supplied seat.
Jim
2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.
I tried adding the seat sliders but it actually caused my seat to sit too high and make it uncomfortable. My knees hitting bottom of dash and impacted line of sight.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
