Exhaust hitting body

[DavidW]

So I've been told the splash guard will push out the body so it doesn't hit the exhaust, that's true with a lot of force and hopefully the louvers will still sit flat in their opening because the body does flex a bit. I'll probably need to add an extension to the splash guard where it attaches to the f-panel to do this or make a larger one. Does anyone have any pictures of what they did to solve this. I've been thinking about attaching a stud with HSRF to the tab in front of the exhaust on the body to attached the splash guard to. Maybe even adding some type of wedge between the drivers footbox and body to help push it out.





The passenger side fits great and both exhaust fit parallel down the side of the body evenly.

[edwardb]

What does it look like with the splash guard with bulb seal installed? It definitely makes a difference. I can't say it's going to fix the interference, but I would want to see that first before doing anything else. You may not like this idea, but another option is to raise the opening. Not fun with a painted body, but it can be done. This is 100% a constructive comment, and mainly for others reading this thread. This is why I continually advise to mock up everything before paint.

[GFX2043mtu]

One option that might be easier them modifying panels and such forth is remove the side exhaust and tap that top flange hole. Then enlarge the header flange hole for the bolt and use a lock washer and bolt it together. You can custom trim the bolt easy enough and it won’t stick past the flange at all. I was and still am looking at possibly doing that on my car to gain some clearance on the passenger side.

[AC Bill]

Install the Splash shields, with bulb seal first, then see if you need to do any further adjustments. I am amazed you managed to get this far without installing them.
Besides the exhaust cut outs, the shields can also affect the fitting of other things. That's why it's usually recommended they be installed when first fitting the body. Some use riv-nuts so they can be removed again.
You don't need a lot of clearance. (as long as that bolt doesn't rub), so chances are good the shields will do the trick without further modification.

[Murd]

I’ll also add to the chorus and say fit the splash guards with bulb seal. I had a fit problem here and couldn’t believe how much it moved out.

[DavidW]

What does it look like with the splash guard with bulb seal installed? It definitely makes a difference. I can't say it's going to fix the interference, but I would want to see that first before doing anything else. You may not like this idea, but another option is to raise the opening. Not fun with a painted body, but it can be done. This is 100% a constructive comment, and mainly for others reading this thread. This is why I continually advise to mock up everything before paint.

I temporarily installed the splash guard, it does push the body off the exhaust but I really have to pull the body and fit the splash guard in there to do it. I may need a bigger bulb seal too.







I could probably push it out maybe another 1/8 inch but the body wants to push back and I think it will win over the splash guard in the long run and lay back down on the exhaust. Would a bigger bulb seal help?

Is the bulb seal to close to the exhaust, worried about the heat?

[GFX2043mtu]

It’s hard to tell how close the seal is. You will want a little room between it and the exhaust so that if the car gets stuck in traffic it doesn’t start to burn the seal. I would think a half an inch should be fine. I have over a inch on mine but I did slightly reform the splash panels for better fitment. From the pictures you may have to do the same to get the top portion to sit near the body. You can do this by bending out a small amount of the step in the panel in that area which will push that part of the panel out more tward the body. The issue you may still have is the nut clearnce. You can do the drill and tap thing I mentioned or use a button head Allen screw with the head facing the body. The head height of these is less then the nut height. You will have to pull the body out a little to be able to get it in.

[edwardb]

You're getting there. Agreed it's hard to tell just how much clearance you have now. But the splash guard is helping as I suspected it would. Yes, it's a tight fit to get it in and you need to pull the lower part of the body out when installing. All normal and OK. I wouldn't worry about the long term affect, e.g. the body pushing back and laying back down. Actually the opposite will happen in my experience. The glass will set to this new position over time. Also agree you may need to play with the position and bend the splash guard to get it to fit better. My last build I flattened them out a bit and that helped. There is bigger bulb seal available. 1120A572 from McMaster which I've used. Same as what's provided in the kit just one size larger, and that's as big as it gets for that edge thickness. Could help a little but won't fill the gap you're showing. My bulb seal is probably 1 to 1-1/2 inches away from the exhaust at the bottom and heat hasn't been an issue.

[jwebb]

With the hot exhaust pipes being that close to the painted surface, wouldn't there be a concern about damage to the paint?

[DavidW]

With the hot exhaust pipes being that close to the painted surface, wouldn't there be a concern about damage to the paint?

I asked the same question and was told it wouldn't be a problem, the paint would be fine. I'll let you know at the end of summer.

[GFX2043mtu]

I was more focused on clearance then heat with mine. I put 1/2” clearance around the pipes and 1/4” clearance on the top flange bolt. Then I checked the body with a inferred thermometer and every thing looked fine. I actually expect the body to get hotter in the direct summer sun. Worst case you can put some heat reflective aluminum on the inside of the body around the pipe exit to help with heat. But it may make it worse if most of the heat comes from the sun as it will trap it on the back side.

[GFX2043mtu]

This is what mine looked like during fit up. 1D06CE87-151E-487B-A416-6D6AA7B1E0B5.jpeg

[Murd]

As far as clearance I understood you need about 3/4” from pipe to body on drivers side to account for engine torque twisting up in its mounts. Feel free to correct if I’m wrong.

[grluisi150]

That's what I found out also. With a 1/2" clearance I had paint on side pipes. 3/4" and no paint on drivers side pipe. I don't know how much different engines will play in this but something to check.
Gary

[JRL16]

I had the same problem on the drivers side. Wound up adding a little aluminum extension to the splash guard to move the body out slightly then used a button head bolt for added clearance. I didn't notice any shims in your sidepipe connection. I needed two and that compounded my problem. McMaster Carr has a larger bulb seal that I also had to use just to close off the gaps around all the splash guards. Good luck.

[GFX2043mtu]

Pipe clearance vertically will be dependent on your mounts. Solid mounts ensures almost no movement, polyurithane mounts have some movement but much less then regular rubber mounts. I’m running poly mounts and from everyone I’ve talked to 1/2” seems to be fine. I ran it with the body on once and was not nice to it and I didn’t see any rub marks.

[CraigS]

As you adjust this, be aware that due to the body being rolled under the rocker panel it is quite stiff from the rear wheel opening to the exhaust opening. If you push it out at the exhaust, it will be out at the leading edge of the door also.

[j.miller]

Pass and driver are no where even. D side is always higher on 302-351. Trim that sucker up. Do "not pull the body out farther then 3/8 of an inch with splash guard (stress will show up somewhere else) What works for one guy doesn't always work for everyone...da Bat

[DavidW]

Pass and driver are no where even. D side is always higher on 302-351. Trim that sucker up. Do "not pull the body out farther then 3/8 of an inch with splash guard (stress will show up somewhere else) What works for one guy doesn't always work for everyone...da Bat

I was worried about that because the stress on the front fender is significant. Even though significant I went through the task of pushing it out and making new splash guards, one for the DS to hold it out and PS because the FFR panel didn't fit.

Where do you think I would see the effect of the stress? The rocker stays in place it riveted and the DS door fitment didn't change, I didn't see any movement on the hood either.

Anyway I used the wedge pump to push out the body and get clearance, then fit the new splash guard with FFR bulb then removed the wedge pump and it looks good. Hopefully it will stay ridged and not lay back down over time.




The difference in size of the front splash guards that was need verses the one FFR sent with the kit is a lot. In this picture I have the FFR sitting on top of the new one.


Here is the new one installed (temporally).

[Pineapplehead]

Doesn't look painted yet, open it up a bit. I agree with the others, 3/4" on the driver's side.

[DavidW]

Doesn't look painted yet, open it up a bit. I agree with the others, 3/4" on the driver's side.

Oooh its painted, its been opened up once already by the painter after paint and touched up. I plan on putting some Dupli Color Bed Armor in those areas under the body where visible so its all black.

[j.miller]

If stress is going to show up it will be at a weak point like around the side louver hole. On my customer cars I open the hole up 1/2 in over the top 4x4 bolt. I know it seems like a lot but you have to remember those holes were marked and cut for J-pipes.....on a 302......on a MK1......not a car that rolls the body under the frame...da Bat.......YEAH! THAT'S RIGHT! I SAID IT ! A MK1 WITH J-PIPES ! well, now that cat is out of the bag........

[DavidW]

If stress is going to show up it will be at a weak point like around the side louver hole. On my customer cars I open the hole up 1/2 in over the top 4x4 bolt. I know it seems like a lot but you have to remember those holes were marked and cut for J-pipes.....on a 302......on a MK1......not a car that rolls the body under the frame...da Bat.......YEAH! THAT'S RIGHT! I SAID IT ! A MK1 WITH J-PIPES ! well, now that cat is out of the bag........

Thanks, I do think you are right and I should open up the hole but I'm hard headed and am going to listen to the warden/painter who told me to let the splash guard push it out and it will be fine. Hopefully nothing will happen regards to stressing the fiberglass body but if something does well you know, live and learn.

I'll let you'll know the results at the end of summer.