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Thread: Need some help, rear caliper disassembly

  1. #1
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    Need some help, rear caliper disassembly

    I'm trying to get the internal screw shaft and side ebrake assy removed from the caliper so I can get the grease and O-rings removed so I can powder coat them. (400°F to cure the powder)
    This is on my '33 hotrod with IRS. FFR says the calipers are from a 2015 Mustang. I've searched and found lots of info on older calipers but these parts must get removed by some other method. The 2 parts feel loose, but just don't want to come out.
    Your newer roadsters must use the same rear calipers, have any of you had your apart? How'd ya do it?
    Any help would be appreciated.

    Dscn1494.jpg

    Dscn1495.jpg

  2. #2
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    OK I'll play. In your 1st photo it appears there is a spiral ring holding that part in. If I'm correct do I get half credit?

  3. #3
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    NAZ, no cigar. There was a C clip in there that I removed.
    Weird that neither part will come out.
    I'm not giving up, somehow I'll find how those 2 parts are held in.
    Might take it to the Ford dealer if I can't find out.

  4. #4
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    I have no experience with these, but it looks like they lock each other in, can you try to turn the cable lever as you try to remove the other part? If that works, keep track of where both are in relation to the caliper when they clear each other for reassembly.

    This for a differnt year but may help in the removal?
    http://forums.corral.net/forums/gene...ing-brake.html

    If nothing else, have the ford dealer pull up the exploded parts diagram at the parts counter, that will show any other clips or possibly if there is a seal or threads on them.
    Last edited by Just puttering; 03-03-2018 at 01:19 AM.
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  5. #5

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    I have never been able to figure it out either. I can tell you I have powder coated a set assembled. Never leaked. Brakes get pretty hot.
    Mike

  6. #6
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    I have never been able to figure it out either. I can tell you I have powder coated a set assembled. Never leaked. Brakes get pretty hot.
    Mike
    Yes, I think the seals on the caliper should handle the heat. If the brake fluid is able to handle over 400*, then the seals can too. Not all powder coating needs to be heated that high, many only to 375*, check to be sure.

  7. #7
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    I’ve disassembled a sticky parking brake before but could not remember the trick.

    Did a search an found this: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-brake.835751/

    «*11) Then came time to remove the screw that the piston rides up and down on. At first I couldn't for the life of me figure out what was keeping it in there and I couldn't yet remove the lever mechanism from the back of the caliper (it was obvious the two were "tied" together some how but I couldn't see what was holding them). Finally I got tired of messing with it and just grabbed it with a set of pliers (with a rag on the end as to not scratch the screw) and sure enough it just popped out. It's got a little O-ring around the base of it that keeps it kind of suctioned into a hole (see pics for a clearer idea of what I am talking about). The screw also has a little swivel rod (don't know what else to call it) that just pulls out of the back of it. The other end of the swivel rod sticks into a hole in the parking brake lever (hence keeping it from being pulled out before).*»

  8. #8
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    Thanks guys, it's apart! Those were some good pics.
    I had the caliper in the vice with a big set of pliers on the screw, pulled so hard the workbench was moving so I stopped.
    Took the caliper out and found out that if you rotated the side lever (up I think) the screw pulled out with my fingers. I tried this same thing yesterday but it didn't work, maybe it had something to do with yanking on it and possibly breaking the vacuum so it wouldn't keep pulling itself back in, or the grease wasn't allowing the pin to drop out of the way??
    Nice there was a part number for a rebuild kit, I was looking for one.
    Now on the caliper #2.

  9. #9
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    There are plenty of caliper/high temp paints available which would be much easier.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  10. #10
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    The second caliper literally fell apart in my hands after I removed the piston. The center screw came out just like there wasn't anything holding it in, unlike the first caliper.
    CraigS, I've painted calipers, valve covers in the past. Found that the brake dust eventually starts sticking to the caliper paint so I bought a powder coating kit.
    Just finished coating both rear calipers, need to let them cool down before I put the parts back in them.

  11. #11
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Glad you got it worked out. What color are they now?
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  12. #12
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    Craig, I used mirror black which is what the chassis is.
    I think they will look good behind the torque thrust wheels.
    The front calipers are aluminum and were nice an smooth, the rears are cast which aren't smooth.
    They look better than the pics.
    Thanks again everyone.

    DSCN1496.JPG

    DSCN1497.JPG

  13. #13
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Very nice.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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