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Thread: Powder coated chassis touch up

  1. #1
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Powder coated chassis touch up

    I have a mk4 that should show up in a week.

    I also have 2 known places where I am going to cut and move parts of a nice powder coated chassis. They are, for a mid shifter and for a transmission mounting bracket (a t56 magnum with a mid shifter is on the way).

    My question is, what is the best way to protect the chassis from rust after making these changes? Paint, powder coate ( a pain ), or maybe por15? I hear that por15 doesn’t stick to powder coate well, how would I transition between the powder coate and por15. The mid shifter adjustment shouldn’t be as big of a deal being further rom the ground. At those locations pretty isn’t as important as protection is.

    Thanks,
    Jim
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Repairing with more powder coat isn't an option. The standard gloss black frame is pretty easy to match. I've used gloss black POR15 and it matches well. I haven't had any issues with it sticking to the existing PC. Although if I'm doing a patch, I typically sand the edge of the transition slightly so it doesn't show. So maybe that slight rough-up helps. A while back someone suggested Rustoleum gloss black appliance paint from Home Depot. I used a can of that a couple builds ago it also worked really well. I usually didn't try to spray it on directly though. I sprayed some into a small mixing cup, let the solvent flash off a little, then applied with a small brush.

    The areas you're describing aren't visible when you're done. So get them touched up in a timely way so they don't rust and forget about 'em. BTW, you'll probably find other places to do PC touch-up during your build. Not particularly unusual to chip something putting in the suspension. All the same comments apply.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Thanks,
    It sounds like por15 is a good option. I was afraid that it wouldn’t stick to the powder coate on the edges where it is used but you answered that.

    Jim
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  4. #4
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    I use VHT chassis & roll bar paint in the rattle can, same as I use for painting all the miscellaneous bare steel brackets that come from FF. With a little prep and decent care in application, you're hard-pressed to see the transition from powder coat to paint and back again.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

  5. #5
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    Lots of guys use Rustoleum gloss black for touch up.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Rustolium gloss black matches very well. Remember that you can buy a quart, not just rattle cans.

  7. #7

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    I used both Eastwood's 2-pack-in-a-can https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-...sis-black.html for high wear areas and the Rustoleum everywhere else. Both match very well, but the marketing says (!) that the 2X should be stronger..
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  8. #8
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I've used lots of Rust-Oleum and that stuff fades really bad. The absolute best product I've found for matching the black powder coat is Eastwood two-part rattle can gloss black chassis paint. I't not Cheap Depot paint it's actually a two-part AUTOMOTIVE paint. The stuff is a perfect match, can be color sanded and rubbed out just like AUTOMOTIVE paint because that's what it is. It's durable and will last much longer than any rattle can paint you buy at a hardware store. You can purchase it and the harder in open top cans if you have a big job and want to use a HVLP gun. Pricey? Yes, but the stuff is durable and did I mention it's AUTOMOTIVE paint?

  9. #9
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    I've used gloss black lacquer in rattle can from Ace, 2 to 3 coats matches fine.

  10. #10
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy black either spray or can
    https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...e-epoxy-spray/
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  11. #11
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy black either spray or can
    https://www.rustoleum.com/product-ca...e-epoxy-spray/
    I may try this. Looks like picking it up at HD or Lowes is the way to go - under $4
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...6830/100141519

    Amazon, not so great when they add on the "free" shipping
    https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-78...L3U/ref=sr_1_1

  12. #12
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    Another touch-up method is to use some of the same powder that was used originally (in this case black), and mix it with MEK until it becomes the consistency of paint. Brush it on and let it dry, overnight works well. Then hit it with a heat gun to finalize the curing.

    Protect the adjacent areas from the heat gun with aluminum foil.

    Derald

  13. #13
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    For the small dings use a little bottle of black testers from the hobby shop.

    I second the black appliance epoxy for big stuff. Durable too.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Rattle can high gloss black is a perfect match

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