Brake bleed empty lines with a shop vac - how to

[TexasAviator]

When you get to the part of the build that requires brake bleed, this trick is free and no expensive specialty tools are needed to vacuum the freshly laid lines. Here is a vid I made using a shop vac. Rear brakes took a lot longer but they will eventually bleed. I have an adjustable brake bias installed in the rear and I have it turned clockwise all the way to the right. All brakes bled on less than a 32 oz bottle.

https://youtu.be/CGv_SWuoxT4

[CraigS]

Cool idea

[shark92651]

That's pretty neat. I guess I'm going to be doing something similar, but pushing the fluid from the reservoir with a bleeder cap and my compressor.

[Al_C]

This looks like the tool: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...-kit/46839_0_0

I may have to try this. I've been putting off bleeding the brakes, but this looks like a pretty good solution. It looks like you just made a seal with your fingers around the vacuum?

[TexasAviator]

This looks like the tool: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...-kit/46839_0_0

I may have to try this. I've been putting off bleeding the brakes, but this looks like a pretty good solution. It looks like you just made a seal with your fingers around the vacuum?

yes, the vac was powerful enough to just seal with my hand. The link you have there is the one I bought about 10 years ago

[broku518]

This looks like the tool: https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...-kit/46839_0_0

I may have to try this. I've been putting off bleeding the brakes, but this looks like a pretty good solution. It looks like you just made a seal with your fingers around the vacuum?

Al,
Bleed them sooner, you can easily see the leaks and get to them. I googled a video on youtube, using two bottles with some tubing. Pretty much one man job, you sit in the drive seat, pumping the brake and watch the bubbles move in tubing.
(I used some some juice boxes from my kids

[TexasAviator]

pumping the brakes doesn't work with new lines, fluid has to be pulled or pushed before you can start pumping the brake. The master cylinder is useless without getting fluid in the lines first.

[broku518]

pumping the brakes doesn't work with new lines, fluid has to be pulled or pushed before you can start pumping the brake. The master cylinder is useless without getting fluid in the lines first.

Hi,
It worked for me. You just have to make sure you leave some brake fluid in each bottle. So the line is submerged. As you pump you can see the bubbles move out. At the same time the fluid is being pulled from reservoir.

[Boydster]

I used a check valve that attaches to the bleeder with a short piece of hose, then off the other end of the check valve, a longer hose with the end submerged in clean fluid. Did it all by myself... open bleeder, pump till no air, watch res level, close bleeder, test brakes. Took a while, worked fine. Brake pedal now has about 1/2" travel to a firm and tight pedal. Full Wilwood setup from FFR.

[TexasAviator]

Hi,
It worked for me. You just have to make sure you leave some brake fluid in each bottle. So the line is submerged. As you pump you can see the bubbles move out. At the same time the fluid is being pulled from reservoir.

Good to hear, I have never been that lucky. Glad yours worked.

[TexasAviator]

I used a check valve that attaches to the bleeder with a short piece of hose, then off the other end of the check valve, a longer hose with the end submerged in clean fluid. Did it all by myself... open bleeder, pump till no air, watch res level, close bleeder, test brakes. Took a while, worked fine. Brake pedal now has about 1/2" travel to a firm and tight pedal. Full Wilwood setup from FFR.

innovative!

[mistasherm]

Great idea and thanks for posting. It is nice to see that there are others having to go through the "kid bike obstacle course" when getting some work done on the build...

[cwrandolph]

I made this rig to put pressure in the master cylinder reservoir. I used a spare cap, drilled a hole in it and inserted a plastic nipple. About 10 psi is enough to force the fluid through the lines. Just takes a couple of minutes to bleed all 4 corners.

[CraigS]

I bet you could also make a rig to use a shop vac to pressure bleed the system.

[Fixit]

Cool idea, but I'll stick to tried & true.
(Bench bleed the Master(s)... then let the physics of gravity fill 90% the system... then break out the vacuum pump & fluid jar rig and suck all the air out. Never has failed me on dozens of brake systems builds.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Cool idea, but I'll stick to tried & true.
(Bench bleed the Master(s)... then let the physics of gravity fill 90% the system... then break out the vacuum pump & fluid jar rig and suck all the air out. Never has failed me on dozens of brake systems builds.

Same/same for 40 years

Jeff

[Joee]

Cool idea, but I'll stick to tried & true.
(Bench bleed the Master(s)... then let the physics of gravity fill 90% the system... then break out the vacuum pump & fluid jar rig and suck all the air out. Never has failed me on dozens of brake systems builds.

I did above without vacuum pump. Jacked front end up sections of clear hose to empty water bottles, let the system do its thing for a day or so. Then do the buddy bleed method. Key is to get the master bench bled properly, I bought 12" sections of brake lines and looped them back into the master towards the bottom of the bowls, also pumped it off and on for a few days. Have always had rock solid brakes.

[Fixit]

I've never used them, but some guys swear by 'em... SpeedBleeders

My usual problem is sucking air past the threads of the bleeder screws. I usually pull them out, give 'em a heavy coat of chassis grease, then thread back in and use the bleeder jar and hand vac pump. (The grease won't effect the fluid, and it also ensures I'll get the damn bleeders out in 5 years on the next rebuild!)

[RoadRacer]

When you get to the part of the build that requires brake bleed, this trick is free and no expensive specialty tools are needed to vacuum the freshly laid lines. Here is a vid I made using a shop vac. Rear brakes took a lot longer but they will eventually bleed. I have an adjustable brake bias installed in the rear and I have it turned clockwise all the way to the right. All brakes bled on less than a 32 oz bottle.

https://youtu.be/CGv_SWuoxT4

Thanks TexasAviator/HandyHusband! Can't wait to try it, hopefully this weekend. I found the same kit at o'reillys. It didn't look like you needed to bench bleed your masters doing this. That would be a nice shortcut since mine are bolted to the car and fully plumbed in Not that it's a biggie to remove them, but I'll try without first.

[TexasAviator]

roadracer, that is what happened to me. I didn't want to bench bleed the system and had it all plumbed and bolted in. Literally took 10 minutes per front to bleed from empty to full and maybe twice that in the rear. Whole job was maybe an hour-ish

[broku518]

Hey, I did couple go cart runs and my brake are somewhat spongy. I may have a leak somewhere or my method isn't 100% air prof.
I am getting the bottle setup and will try the way you did it.

Thanks for posting this!
Martin

[Foose412]

I've never used them, but some guys swear by 'em... SpeedBleeders

I highly recommend SpeedBleeders, they work extremely well.

[Foose412]

I highly recommend SpeedBleeders, they work extremely well.

While I have have good luck with SpeedBleeders on 3 different vehicles, I might retract my earlier statement. They do work as advertised and make 1-person brake bleeding jobs a fairly painless process. However, I just ordered a Wilwood big brake kit for my truck a couple days ago and contacted them for the bleed screw specs to order some SpeedBleeders. They advised not to use SpeedBleeders because they can be a potential point of failure if the check ball fails and mentioned inconsistent build quality issues with them. They may have to say this for liability reasons but thought I'd share.