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Thread: Steering Bind Problems

  1. #1
    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Steering Bind Problems

    Hi
    I have run into binding on the u-joints because the angle is to severe. It seems there needs to be a third bearing to eliminate the binding. I have the FF Unisteer kit and bought the very expensive u joints from Unisteer. I have gokarted the package and the steering bind every rotation. Has anybody had this problem and how did you fix it. Steering2.jpg

    Thanks TomH33
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    Member tcollins's Avatar
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    I don't have a good picture of that area on the finished car, but I added an extra joint, primarily to get around the coyote headers. It seems to turn fine without binding. I don't recall buying extra joints, I thought everything to do this came with the kit? I welded the angle iron to the frame but others, with powder coated frames, have bolted on pillow blocks to mount the bearing in this general location.

    left side engine.JPG Steering mockup.JPG steering linkage finished.JPG
    Last edited by tcollins; 03-14-2018 at 06:31 PM.

  3. #3
    Member tcollins's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of the bolt-on pillow block if you prefer not to weld.

    steering pillow block.JPG

  4. #4
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    I spent time and got joints at 30 degrees, but that is with third bearing.

  5. #5
    Ol Skool
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    The angle on that input looks pretty severe, but recheck the last one at the rack. It appears phased 90 degrees to what I would expect.

  6. #6
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    Make sure the steering shaft isn’t too long and sticking too far into u joints either. That will make them bind when the u joint hits the shaft end that sticks too far out.
    '33 Hot Rod
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  7. #7
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    I think I remember something in the Steering Column instructions about "phasing" all the joints as well.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  8. #8
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    Make sure the steering shaft isn’t too long and sticking too far into u joints either. That will make them bind when the u joint hits the shaft end that sticks too far out.
    That is what I had a problem with at first. The shaft going up into the last joint at the steering column was too long and was hitting during the turn.

    I also noticed that the u-joint right at the firewall is a little away from the bearing face. I recall the directions said to make sure it was flush on the bearing face.
    Tim Sapp
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    33 Hot Rod
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  9. #9

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    I also noticed that the u-joint right at the firewall is a little away from the bearing face. I recall the directions said to make sure it was flush on the bearing face.
    Second that - it should be touching, and make sure you use just a very short grub screw (no locking nut on it) on that end of UJ so it doesn't touch. But your UJ's are way different to what I got on #997. Ironically in this very early mockup shot, my UJ isn't snug up to firewall either.. it is now, but no pics.

    steer2.jpeg
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  10. #10
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Here is a picture of mine that I took when I was figuring out how much I needed to cut off of the rod.



    I also had the set screw wrong in this picture and was not using the small one they provided.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  11. #11
    Senior Member TomH33's Avatar
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    Thanks You all SOOO Much!! I think the third bearing is a good solution. I will double check the phasing and the shaft length for interference.

    Thanks Again
    TomH33

  12. #12
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Here is a picture of mine that I took when I was figuring out how much I needed to cut off of the rod.



    I also had the set screw wrong in this picture and was not using the small one they provided.
    I think the guys hit the nail on the head, it doesn't look like you have the correct joint at the firewall. Unless you have a Coyote or other engine than needs extra clearance, the third bearing is unnecessary.

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