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Thread: Fuel pump for Coyote?

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    Fuel pump for Coyote?

    Hi all,

    I'm building a roadster with a Coyote (bought complete engine from FFR). The one part I forgot to get ahead of time was the fuel pump. I really like the way the Ford unit is designed and all integrated into one piece. However because I'm building with a Coyote and not a 302 EFI Windsor, will this [pump work with a Coyote 5.0 (see link below)? I don't know much about fuel flow rates so I don't know if this will adequately feed the beast. Thanks!

    https://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-pum...4-1997/p/FPU3/

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    Ford recommends a 166 lph fuel pump for the Coyote. That's what I used and it works just fine with the FFR 5/16" fuel lines and 1/4" return line. The link doesn't specify the pump capacity so unless you know what performance this stock pump has, I would pass on it. If you plan on running the Coyote stock, a 166 lph pump is satisfactory. Some use a 255 lph pump but that may require a larger fuel line and wastes energy pumping that volume while taxing the pressure regulator to dump a lot of fuel back to the tank. It could be why a lot of builders have trouble with the fuel line inside the tank coming apart. There is a GM fuel filter/regulator that can be used close to the fuel tank to reduce the return line distance and eliminate the firewall pressure regulator. Perhaps FFR included this one with the Coyote.
    King
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I agree with King. Pass on that pump. No specs given and for the vintage Mustang it's intended for, very possible it's not up to the task for a Coyote. Ford's instructions for the Coyote crate state: Fuel pump requirements: 155 lph minimum at 55psi. The Factory Five instructions say the Coyote requires a 255 lph high pressure fuel pump and that's also what they provide if you buy the engine from them with the installation kit. Are you positive they aren't including the pump?

    I also agree 155 lph pump is fine with the stock lines. If you do choose to go to a higher volume pump, I personally think larger lines are better being especially mindful of the return and 1/4-inch inlet on a stock fuel pump hanger.
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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    King is king on this one. The Factory Five instructions are excellent. If you follow the tried and( many times over) proven recipe from FFR you will wind up with a worry free build. Like King, I too used the FFR supplied 5/16" fuel line and 1/4" return line. Over 20,000 miles on mine and no issues.

  5. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    King is king on this one. The Factory Five instructions are excellent. If you follow the tried and( many times over) proven recipe from FFR you will wind up with a worry free build. Like King, I too used the FFR supplied 5/16" fuel line and 1/4" return line. Over 20,000 miles on mine and no issues.
    You did understand that King is recommending a different pump than what FF specifies in their instructions if using the stock fuel lines, right? As he points out, and I agree with, the higher volume pump and stock fuel lines have caused some issues for some and also isn't recommended by Ford or the manufacturers of those parts. Which pump are you running? Just curious. Clearly yours has worked out OK.
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    First a mistake in my first post, 166 lph should be 155 lph for the Ford Coyote instructions. I did some time on the Mustang forums trying to find stock fuel pump numbers and found there are many outputs depending on the model and year of the car. So, don't buy a pump without some documentation on its output. Even then, the numbers aren't accurate without knowing the pressure the pump is working against when tested. But there is another problem with pumps depending on the type fuel system they will be used in, namely return or return less. Here is a good article that is informative. A good point found in the conversations about pumps is the fact that using the Ford Racing PCM, the pump runs wide open all the time at full load while the OEM PCMs run the pump as necessary to maintain a preset fuel pressure. Not only is the life of the pump reduced with excessive fuel supply, all the wasted fuel supplied results in heat dumped in the fuel in the tank. As the tank gets empty, the fuel temperature is raised and the pump may fail. A good thing with a pressure regulator on the fire wall is the length of fuel line available for cooling the fuel outside the tank which the GM style filter/regulator used close to the tank doesn't. A 255 lph pump used with the GM filter/regulator may have a shorter life. More pump may not be better.
    King
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    I used Summit inline fuel pump p/n sum-g3138 for my coyote powered English ford. If you use this pump, be sure to mount it on rubber isolators or else it will sing to you. I agree with everyone else about not using too large a pump. It only cost $85.00 but you can pay more for the same pump if you want a brand name.

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    Yes, 155 lph at 55 psi for the Coyote.

    However, pumps are rated at 155, 190 or 255 lph, but at 40 psi /13.5v.

    A 190 lph pump flows 190 lph at 40 psi 13.5 volts but only 135 lph at 55 psi/ 12v.

    You need a 255 lph pump to safely achieve 155 lph at 55 psi 12 v.

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    Quote Originally Posted by totem View Post
    Yes, 155 lph at 55 psi for the Coyote.

    However, pumps are rated at 155, 190 or 255 lph, but at 40 psi /13.5v.

    A 190 lph pump flows 190 lph at 40 psi 13.5 volts but only 135 lph at 55 psi/ 12v.

    You need a 255 lph pump to safely achieve 155 lph at 55 psi 12 v.
    Thanks all for the help (and sorry it took me awhile to get back into this). I've been working overtime on assembling the car. I found a box I had previously missed doing inventory on (the Coyote install kit box) and there was a separate parts list in there. Included with that kit is a 255 lph pump (however mine is backordered). So I don't need to buy a pump after all.

    Thanks for all the help. Next time I'll be more diligent about finding and opening ever single box!

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    Breeze recommends a Walbro nominal 190lph pump for use with a stock Coyote. (properly plumbed without unnecessary restrictions)
    It is good for 470hp at 13.5V pushing 58psi with a 10% safety factor and can work with the stock 1/4" return port in the Mustang EFI hanger.

    If you run a nominal 255lph pump you will need a larger return port to avoid aeration of the fuel near the pump intake which causes the pump to take in vapor. https://www.breezeautomotive.com/sho...el-return-kit/

    Totem - when the engine is running the pump is getting around 13.5V. Voltage has a large effect on actual pump flow rate.
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    Sorry to revive an old thread but I am still unclear on what pump is needed. It sounds like a 190lph pump would allow me to use the lines I have and provide enough fuel for the Coyote. I see that Mark Reynolds lists it being good for 470HP. I assume that is crank HP which is pretty close to what the Gen 2 Coyote's make tuned right? My understanding is the Gen 3 Coyote makes more like 500 HP when tuned. If you are going to use a Gen 3, which I think requires 65 PSI would you need a 255 pump and bigger fuel lines? What about if you tune the Gen 2 or use e85? Sorry, I just don't want to put in lines and a fuel pump now only to rip it all out and start over. Not sure about going with a Gen 2 or Gen 3 Coyote yet. I don't think I am going to go crazy with the power but I also don't want to hamstring myself.

  13. #12
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Yes, the 470 HP Mark describes is at the flywheel. I agree the 190 LPH pump is OK with the stock fuel lines. Also agree the 255 LPH is probably not a good idea with the stock fuel lines. Back when I was researching this for my Gen 2 powered Roadster, there were several that had early fuel pump failures, and the common thought was they were being stressed by the too small lines as 2bking describes. I ended up going with full 3/8-inch lines for supply and return and the 255 LPH pump. Final rationale for me was instructions from Aeromotive (the regulator I used) that said full 3/8-inch lines were needed for this volume and pressure. Conservative and probably overkill? I guess but not easy to change later as you said. Another element to this discussion is the fuel pump hangar. The stock hanger, with 5/16-inch supply and 1/4-inch return, even when drilled out per the instructions, isn't a good match for the 3/8-inch lines if you go that way. Several of us have used the Pro-M full 3/8-inch hangar, and it's excellent. http://www.promracing.com/high-flow-...-mustangs.html. It also addresses the aeration issue that was referenced.

    You are correct that the Gen 3 requires 65 PSI and is routinely dynoing over 500 HP, even in stock form. Personally, I think the 255 LPH pump and 3/8-inch lines and hangar are no longer a debate at that point. Went with that setup (again) in my Gen 3 Coyote powered Coupe build. If you think you might be using a Gen 3 Coyote, sure what I'd recommend. Do it once and do it right.
    Last edited by edwardb; 06-18-2019 at 06:13 AM.
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    Buy the Coyote fuel installation kit from FFR. It includes everything you need . Fuel pump, lines, regulator, connectors, fittings, zip ties etc, Everything, Put it together and it works.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    I think the promracing pump hanger is worth the price just for the reduced aeration. Only issue with this hanger is the wire size is small for the up sized pumps. I put the 255 pump in mine due to the advertised hp being over 500. With the key on the pump is noisy, but not heard after the engine fires.
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    Buy the Coyote fuel installation kit from FFR. It includes everything you need . Fuel pump, lines, regulator, connectors, fittings, zip ties etc, Everything, Put it together and it works.
    Hey Ron. Agreed. That's a proven solution. Wasn't available in 2015 when I did my current Roadster. Do you have an opinion about whether it would be OK for the Gen 3 Coyote? Given the higher HP and higher pressure required.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    I have no experience with the Gen 3 yet. I expect it will be fine, but have not seen a gen 3 other than the one in FFR's hot rod.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    I am running the TU229HP pump, which is a 255lph pump specific to the 98-04 fuel tank. I haven't had the issues described above with fuel return or overheating (yet). Because it didn't have a return line, I had to add one. Similar to the hanger above, I routed a return hose to the bottom of the fuel pump hat to keep the hat full and avoid aeration. Prior to that modification, it would run out of fuel on long high G corners because the stock hat would get pumped out quickly.

    For what it's worth, my gen 1 coyote dynoed 450rwhp. Other than the standard build components (SS headers, high flow air filter), I only added a 2018+ intake manifold and got it tuned. The tuner said it was moving 52 lb/min peak airflow, which should put it just north of 500hp at the crank (it needs about 40 gph/150lph at a conservative 0.50 BSFC). I am much more comfortable with the 255lph given the numbers it makes. Don't forget to account for the pressure loss of supply line when you select the fuel pump. That is in addition to the fuel pressure required by the engine. If I am loosing 5psi in the supply line/filter and need 55psi at the engine, I need a total of 60 psi. If you have a 3/8" line, this will help, but could still be a factor. The graph for a typical walbro 155 lph pump shows 32 gph at 60 psi, which would be inadequate. The typical walbro 190 lph moves ~45 gph at 60 psi, which is barely adequate (only 10% capacity to spare, imagine the what if's such as low fuel level, dirty fuel filter, ect). The 255lph moves closer to 61 gph at 60 psi. I feel more comfortable here, but need some upgrades to run E85.

    https://walbrofuelpumps.com/fuel-pumps-pressure-charts

    On my previous vehicle, an 88 mustang, I ran a walbro 255lph pump with the stock mustang fuel lines, which were crimp bent 1/4 return and 5/16 supply. I never had a fuel pump failure in the 10+ years that pump was installed, despite even running E85 much of the time. Also never had an issue with too much fuel flow in the 1/4 return lines in either vehicle. This issue would show up at idle as an inability to keep fuel pressure low enough since that is the lightest load condition.

  19. #18
    FFR Maven Logan's Avatar
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    Shopping for fuel pumps for my Gen 3 Coyote. Ford Performance has instructions (from the Control Pack, available here) that list the fuel requirement at 155 L/Hr minimum at 55 psi.

    A quick glance at the Walbro pumps leads me to the GSS series. They call it the "Gold Standard". GSS340, GSS341, and GSS342. The difference between these three is still a mystery to me, because their website is a bit lacking.

    @EdwardB - you mentioned you used the GSS320 in a prior build, and were expecting to use that for your Gen 3 Coupe (with Gen 3 Coyote), is that the route you went?
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  20. #19
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logan View Post
    Shopping for fuel pumps for my Gen 3 Coyote. Ford Performance has instructions (from the Control Pack, available here) that list the fuel requirement at 155 L/Hr minimum at 55 psi.

    A quick glance at the Walbro pumps leads me to the GSS series. They call it the "Gold Standard". GSS340, GSS341, and GSS342. The difference between these three is still a mystery to me, because their website is a bit lacking.

    @EdwardB - you mentioned you used the GSS320 in a prior build, and were expecting to use that for your Gen 3 Coupe (with Gen 3 Coyote), is that the route you went?
    Can't get anything from that link for the Ford Performance instructions. This one works: https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-M50B.PDF.

    The instructions state "NOTE-Fuel pump requirements:165L/hr minimum at 65 PSI" (bold is mine). So a bit different than what you referenced. Need to be a little careful here though IMO. Walbro (like others) rates their pumps in L/hr but doesn't give the PSI for the rated flow. If you look at their website, they do provide a graph. In this case, the Walbro GSS340BX I used is rated as 255L/hr, but that's only at approx 40 psi. At 65 psi, as Ford requires, it's around 220L/hr. A little hard to read exactly because of the graph. Also need to convert since it shows in gallons. Drawing about 10 amps at that point BTW. So, overkill maybe, but not as much as you might think. A lesser pump, when measured at 65 PSI, might come up a little short or be right at the minimum. With full 3/8 lines as I did, plus the Pro-M hangar, I'm not worried about any negatives from unused fuel flowing back to the tank. Also note Walbro (TI Automotive, same thing) rates this pump for 500 HP. About right for the Gen 3 Coyote. GSS340, GSS341, and GSS342 are all the same basic pump. The difference is the pickup at the bottom The GSS340 is the "Ford" version using the push-on sock filter.

    This is exactly what I installed in my Gen 3 Coupe with the Gen 3 Coyote, pictured below before going into the tank: Pro-M Racing High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger for 1986–1997 Mustangs, Walbro GSS340BX Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Tank, 255L/ph, Ford, 5.0L, Walbro 94-615 Wiring Harness, and 922229 Molex 19164-0077, and Perma-Seal™ Heat Shrink & Crimp Step-Down Butt Connectors, 16-14/12-10 Ga from DelCity.net. All working fine through first start, multiple additional starts and running, and a grand total of 2 miles driving around my neighborhood over the past week. It's almost exactly the same setup I have in Roadster #8674 that is approaching 6,000 miles with no issues.

    Last edited by edwardb; 08-06-2019 at 09:56 AM.
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  21. #20
    FFR Maven Logan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Can't get anything from that link for the Ford Performance instructions. This one works: https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-M50B.PDF.

    The instructions state "NOTE-Fuel pump requirements:165L/hr minimum at 65 PSI" (bold is mine). So a bit different than what you referenced. Need to be a little careful here though IMO. Walbro (like others) rates their pumps in L/hr but doesn't give the PSI for the rated flow. If you look at their website, they do provide a graph. In this case, the Walbro GSS340BX I used is rated as 255L/hr, but that's only at approx 40 psi. At 65 psi, as Ford requires, it's around 220L/hr. A little hard to read exactly because of the graph. Also need to convert since it shows in gallons. Drawing about 10 amps at that point BTW. So, overkill maybe, but not as much as you might think. A lesser pump, when measured at 65 PSI, might come up a little short or be right at the minimum. With full 3/8 lines as I did, plus the Pro-M hangar, I'm not worried about any negatives from unused fuel flowing back to the tank. Also note Walbro (TI Automotive, same thing) rates this pump for 500 HP. About right for the Gen 3 Coyote. GSS340, GSS341, and GSS342 are all the same basic pump. The difference is the pickup at the bottom The GSS340 is the "Ford" version using the push-on sock filter.

    This is exactly what I installed in my Gen 3 Coupe with the Gen 3 Coyote, pictured below before going into the tank: Pro-M Racing High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger for 1986–1997 Mustangs, Walbro GSS340BX Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Tank, 255L/ph, Ford, 5.0L, Walbro 94-615 Wiring Harness, and 922229 Molex 19164-0077, and Perma-Seal™ Heat Shrink & Crimp Step-Down Butt Connectors, 16-14/12-10 Ga from DelCity.net.
    Thank you Paul!

    I think the Ford Performance website was having issues last night, some things weren’t loading, but yes your link is correct. Part number M-6017-M50B for the 2018+ Gen 3 Coyote Control Pack.

    I understand the differences between the GSS34X pumps now. I assume the BX suffix is more of a revision thing.

    I see the Walbro GSS340 is available on Summit and other places for about $100. I’ll call Pro-M to see if they sell the pickup with pump together.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    Buy the Coyote fuel installation kit from FFR. It includes everything you need . Fuel pump, lines, regulator, connectors, fittings, zip ties etc, Everything, Put it together and it works.
    Does the FFR kit upgrade the fuel line to 3/8?
    I’m confused as to what comes in the kit.

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    No it does not, you get a 5/16 feed line and 1/4 return line on the fuel pump hangar and connectors to make those connect to -6 lines. You also get a fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel regulator and associated parts to make it all connect together and connect to the motor.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    No it does not, you get a 5/16 feed line and 1/4 return line on the fuel pump hangar and connectors to make those connect to -6 lines. You also get a fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel regulator and associated parts to make it all connect together and connect to the motor.
    Thanks for the response FFinisher I apologize in advance, I’m still pretty confused haha.

    So the Coyote needs 55psi to operate, FFR provides a 255lph pump with 5/16 feed 1/4 return. (EFI KIT)

    BUT!! From everything I’ve read...

    The 5/16 feed line and 1/4 return doesnt work well with the 255lph pump? Creates excess pressure and more work on the pump and sometimes blows off lines in the hanger?

    I guess my big question is what makes the FFR EFI fuel kit work well? Because that’s what I bought.

  25. #24
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    I have a Coyote with a 255lph pump (55PSI) and 5/16 feed 1/4 return lines supplied from FF. I have approx 1500 miles and it works fine.
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    [QUOTE=Smarstiller;383587]Thanks for the response FFinisher I apologize in advance, I’m still pretty confused haha.

    So the Coyote needs 55psi to operate, FFR provides a 255lph pump with 5/16 feed 1/4 return. (EFI KIT)

    BUT!! From everything I’ve read...

    The 5/16 feed line and 1/4 return doesnt work well with the 255lph pump? Creates excess pressure and more work on the pump and sometimes blows off lines in the hanger?

    I guess my big question is what makes the FFR EFI fuel kit work well? Because that’s what I bought.[/QUOTE

    As stated below by Ducky 2009 it works fine-
    I have never had a line blow off at the hangar, I am aware others have, Multiple times in the same drive, I have been with one person who had this happen.

    I don't know why this happened to this individual. We have all seen all kinds of stuff fall off, That does not automatically point to faulty parts, or parts that don't work together.

    Not bragging.... but I have built 13 coyote cars with this set up -no problem.

    The white coupe we built as Sema last year had this set up.

    Take a look at videos on line. You will see the car ran just fine.

    https://youtu.be/iWp6LEs__FU

    This is a gen 2 coyote, right out of the box, no tune, we bolted it together and Dave Smith did this for 8 minutes.


    I cannot answer for others. I can tell you if you want to spend more money..... someone will take it!
    Last edited by FFinisher; 10-06-2019 at 08:54 AM.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    The EFI In-Tank Fuel System that FFR shows in their complete kit list for $549, seems a little expensive for a fuel pump and regulator. They don’t state what is included with this option.
    I have a Gen 2 and looking for a in tank fuel pump and regulator. Can someone tell me what they’ve used successfully?

  29. #27
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    The EFI In-Tank Fuel System that FFR shows in their complete kit list for $549, seems a little expensive for a fuel pump and regulator. They don’t state what is included with this option.
    I have a Gen 2 and looking for a in tank fuel pump and regulator. Can someone tell me what they’ve used successfully?
    You'll get several answers. Many are above already in this thread, including what I did. Although mine is admittedly on the high side of what's required based on other experiences. Mine is in its third season with 6,300 miles and has been flawless. Because of that basically duplicated the same setup in my Gen 3 Coupe / Gen 3 Coyote build. I've used the Aeromotive Universal 13129 Bypass Regulator on my builds. As I recall that's the one Factory Five has in their instructions. Don't know if that's what they provide in their kit. Many have used and recommend a GM fixed regulator/filter. That plus other pump related topics in this thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...gulator-Coyote.
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  30. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    The EFI In-Tank Fuel System that FFR shows in their complete kit list for $549, seems a little expensive for a fuel pump and regulator. They don’t state what is included with this option.
    I have a Gen 2 and looking for a in tank fuel pump and regulator. Can someone tell me what they’ve used successfully?
    It also includes flexible supply and return fuel lines, a second fuel pump hanger(one came as part of our complete kit), a fuel pressure gauge and miscellaneous fittings. If you are installing hard lines, I would purchase these items separately and save yourself some $$$. If you want PTFE lined flex fuel line I would also steer clear of this FFR EFI kit.
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    This is what I’m thinking about ordering from Summit; Summit Racing Universal LS Fuel Filter Regulator Kit & Walbro Electric In-Tank Fuel Pumps GCA719-2 255 lph with max pressure of 80 PSI. Is 80 PSI going to be to high? Also the High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger from Pro M.

  32. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobm488 View Post
    This is what I’m thinking about ordering from Summit; Summit Racing Universal LS Fuel Filter Regulator Kit & Walbro Electric In-Tank Fuel Pumps GCA719-2 255 lph with max pressure of 80 PSI. Is 80 PSI going to be to high? Also the High Flow Fuel Pump Hanger from Pro M.
    That's the same pump and hangar setup I've used twice and works great. Only suggestion is buy the loose pump only (GSS340BX, same one) and Walbro 94-615 Wiring Harness, rather than the kit. You'll save a few bucks. The Pro-M hangar has the other parts you need, e.g. tube, clamps, filter, etc. You'll also want some fuel resistant shrink sleeve and/or connectors. Like the Molex Perma-Seal ones I mentioned. Shouldn't have any problem regulating that pump down to what's required for the Coyote. Hasn't been a problem for me.
    Last edited by edwardb; 10-15-2019 at 05:16 PM.
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  33. #31
    Senior Member bobm488's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    That's the same pump and hangar setup I've used twice and works great. Only suggestion is buy the loose pump only (GSS340BX, same one) and Walbro 94-615 Wiring Harness, rather than the kit. You'll save a few bucks. The Pro-M hangar has the other parts you need, e.g. tube, clamps, filter, etc. You'll also want some fuel resistant shrink sleeve and/or connectors. Like the Molex Perma-Seal ones I mentioned. Shouldn't have any problem regulating that pump down to what's required for the Coyote. Hasn't been a problem for me.
    Thanks Paul, I saw your car at the Motts college this last May, it's a beauty .

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    Just curious wouldn't an in-tank pump out perform an inline pump? I need to get this for my Gen 3 install.
    Stay cooler as well as less noise :-).

    Thoughts?

  36. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakers35 View Post
    Just curious wouldn't an in-tank pump out perform an inline pump? I need to get this for my Gen 3 install.
    Stay cooler as well as less noise :-).

    Thoughts?
    ??? Every post except one in this thread is about an in-tank installation. With the same ratings, shouldn't be any difference in performance between external and in-tank. But you're right. In-tank is cooler and quieter.
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    Bought Aeromotive Stealth II tank for my restomod with a Gen II Coyote. Options were 200 LPH and 340 LPH. The 200 LPH pump seemed marginal, so I chose the 340LPH option. As long as the fuel lines are 3/8 supply side and return, any issues with the higher capacity?
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  38. #35
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    Same question for me. I'm getting a Coyote Gen III and my engine package supplier is including the fuel pump, at 340LPH. No mention of larger line sizes. All I have are the 5/16'' lines in my complete kit from FFR.
    Is the 340LPH over-sized??? Or, is this to overcome the 5/16" lines? Even if assume a conservative pressure loss of 10 psi through 5/16" line to the motor, then pump needs to discharge at 75 psi, and according the chart for the 340LPH pump, delivery is 250 LPH. FORD OEM spec is 155 LPH? I guess I just answered my own question. But current draw at 250 LPH is over near 14V, which is capacity of alternator just about, right? But how often will I be at wide open throttle? Hardly for me, I'll be cruising.

  39. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 32J View Post
    Same question for me. I'm getting a Coyote Gen III and my engine package supplier is including the fuel pump, at 340LPH. No mention of larger line sizes. All I have are the 5/16'' lines in my complete kit from FFR.
    Is the 340LPH over-sized??? Or, is this to overcome the 5/16" lines? Even if assume a conservative pressure loss of 10 psi through 5/16" line to the motor, then pump needs to discharge at 75 psi, and according the chart for the 340LPH pump, delivery is 250 LPH. FORD OEM spec is 155 LPH? I guess I just answered my own question. But current draw at 250 LPH is over near 14V, which is capacity of alternator just about, right? But how often will I be at wide open throttle? Hardly for me, I'll be cruising.
    All the posts in this thread pretty much covered everything. No point in repeating most of it. IMO a 340LPH is way more than a stock Gen 3 Coyote needs. And pumping through 5/16" lines is asking for trouble. Don't forget that same fuel line set has a 1/4" return, and with that size pump you'll have plenty of return. So it's restrictive all the way around. Your pump might last 200,000 miles. It might not make it through the first month. Hard to say. I'd recommend checking with the mfg and see what minimum size lines they recommend. I'd bet it's 3/8 or even 1/2. Pushing that much fuel through undersize lines will stress the pump and draw excess current (expressed in amps, not volts) which translates into heat for the pump and potentially the fuel. You're right. For street cruising you'll rarely have that thing at wide open throttle. It gets crazy (and illegal) real fast. But that's not really the point. The pump is running wide open all the time regardless of how much fuel you're actually burning. Either go to a smaller pump or go to bigger lines is my advice. Easy to do while building. Not nearly so easy once it's done.
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    I am following the lead set here - skip the efi option from the kit and purchase the pump and hanger separately.
    Am I right in thinking that I need to buy the regulator aswell? I assume it doesn't come with the kit if you don't include the efi option.

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