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Thread: Steering Column

  1. #1
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    Steering Column

    I just loosely installed the chrome steering column (upgrade) - and this may be premature but the brake arm hits one of the mounting bolts (closest to the firewall) when pushed in. Again, no fluid is in the brake lines yet (no brake resistance) so maybe the brake pedal will never be depressed that far to even hit the bolt. Also assuming column is mounted correctly - seem only one way, but???

    Walter

  2. #2
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    Pics? Can you mount the bolt the other way around? FWIW, I mounted my column to the left of the mounting points and added washers one side to position it to my liking.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

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  3. #3
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    It’s been awhile and I’ve slept since then, but I seems to remember having to put a bolt in from other direction in that area and also use the supplied washers on the brake pedal to move it slightly to one side or the other.
    '33 Hot Rod
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  4. #4
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    I'm attaching several photos of the problem. It looks like no matter which direction I put in the steering column mount bolt/nut, it would still hit (see photo). Despite matching the instruction photo, I can move the hole master cylinder/pedal mount back about a 1/2 inch, but the pedal arm would still hit either the bolt or nut. My other thought was that while I removed the left pedal (going automatic), move the brake pedal to the left (But again, that would be weird). Steering linkage seems to fit perfectly, thinking the column is in the correct place. Or wait until I add brake fluid and the pedal will never be depressed that far?
    Any suggestions would be welcomed.
    Thanks

    WalterSteering Colunm 1.jpgSteering Colunm 2.jpg

  5. #5
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    yeah, that's a little odd. Here's a pic I just took of mine. You'll see how it's spaced over a little, but yours seems to fit better than mine did. Mine is #997, perhaps yours is later and was 'fixed' here? But look at where my brake pedal goes.

    brakepedal.jpeg

    BUT I have to say.. now that I've seen it, the pedal will never move that far when fluid is in..
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  6. #6
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    In the brake kit there is spacers you need to install.
    One 1/2 inch spacer on the right side.

    Bob
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    yeah, that's a little odd. Here's a pic I just took of mine. You'll see how it's spaced over a little, but yours seems to fit better than mine did. Mine is #997, perhaps yours is later and was 'fixed' here? But look at where my brake pedal goes.

    brakepedal.jpeg

    BUT I have to say.. now that I've seen it, the pedal will never move that far when fluid is in..
    We did the same as you except we placed the head of the bolt on the inside to have more clearance

  8. #8
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    In all the images sent, your pedals are basically down the middle between the column bracket welded to the frame (especially seen in the image with the red hoses) - mind pedal on the other hand if looking again at the image with the two red hoses, is lower in the images not centered as shown hence why it is hitting the bolt or if reverse, the nut. It is almost like FFR welded the bracket on the frame or the pedal mount in the wrong spot- it's about an inch off - so no spacer will get that bolt or nut out of the way. I'll retake a few images to try to show more detail.

    Thanks
    Walter

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by racephotoman View Post
    I'll retake a few images to try to show more detail.
    Yeah, that would help. Here's the latest plan view I took of this area..

    firewallp5.jpeg
    Last edited by RoadRacer; 03-19-2018 at 02:34 PM.
    Aerodynamics are for those who can't build engines - Enzo Ferrari

    FFR33 coupe #997, ordered 2/20/17, delivered 4/15/17, build thread
    Planned: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, GT500 wheels

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by RoadRacer View Post
    Yeah, that would help. Here's the latest plan view I took of this area..

    firewallp5.jpeg
    I put a shoulder bolt in with the head facing the brake pedal. Easy peasy.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  11. #11
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    I have just run into the same issue. looking at some of the other pictures I dont think there is a standard location for the brackets on the chassis, I had to put a large spacer on the right side to center it on the brake peddle. I am going to try to flip the bolts around to see if the arm will clear the heads.Brake Peddle hit 005.JPG

  12. #12
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    I get putting in the spacer(s), but like what you are also experiencing, the pedal no matter what we do will hit either the bolt or the nut on the driver's left side of the welded bracket. I'm also attaching an image showing the pedal is definitely favoring one side, not like as shown in the pix with the red hoses. When did buy your kit? - I received my Dec. 2017. I'm still thinking the bracket on the frame was welded in the wrong position, and should have been installed more to the outside of driver's left. I also call FFR and sending them pix. I hope I'm just doing something wrong.

    Walter
    PEDAL2.jpg

    I still would like to see if I'm doing anything wrong / or manufacture problem (welding) - but will probably try the shoulder bolt idea and move on - and stop over thinking (guaranteed I have more) - great advice - thanks!!!

    I just went back to see about just using a shoulder bolt - unfortunately, I have the most an 1/8" between the welded bracket on the frame and the steering column bracket. You can also see the limited space in duff33's image. Bummer!

    Walter
    Last edited by racephotoman; 03-19-2018 at 07:47 PM. Reason: added words

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by FFinisher View Post
    I put a shoulder bolt in with the head facing the brake pedal. Easy peasy.

    I actually meant a 5/16 carriage bolt with a rounded head facing the pedal, not sure if this will help or not.

    Sorry for the wrong terminology.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  14. #14
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    I think with a little grinding of the brake pedal shaft, it probably would work. I have just about an 1/8" between the bracket and pedal shaft. I have a call in to FFR to see what they think - still believe after looking at the images sent here, and the latest from the other gentleman having the same issue - think the bracket was welded in the wrong place.
    Thanks!

    Walter
    Last edited by racephotoman; 03-20-2018 at 12:54 PM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by racephotoman View Post
    I think with a little grinding of the brake pedal shaft, it probably would work. I have just about an 1/8" between the bracket and pedal shaft. I have a call in to FFR to see what they think - still believe after looking at the images sent here, and the latest from the other gentleman having the same issue - think the bracket was welded in the wrong place.
    Thanks!

    Walter
    I checked mine last night. With the brake pedal fully depressed it doesn't come close to the bolts.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    I checked mine last night. With the brake pedal fully depressed it doesn't come close to the bolts.
    Here is a picture from above with the brake pedal fully depressed. IMG_1092.JPG
    Thanks,
    Andy

  17. #17
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    I was able to swap the bolts around and the peddle just fits between giving more travel.Brake peddle hit2 002.JPG

  18. #18

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    Mine is just like yours Racephotoman, it hits the head of the bolt on the left side.
    No spacer in my kit, I used washers.
    Like someone above said when there is fluid in the MC the travel will be much less.

  19. #19
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    Hi guys, did we solve this issue @racephotoman?

  20. #20
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    I am having the exact same issue. Has it been determined that the brake peddle will not reach the bolt heads when finished? Seems like I only have about 3/4" from peddle to bolt to play with now without fluid in system.

  21. #21

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    I used some button head allens and washers.
    Hope to have brake fluid in the system tomorrow so I can answer that question.

  22. #22
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    Better to fix the interference issue than to rely on the pedal arm not contacting the fastener under normal conditions. Myself, I'm not comfortable have a M/C stroke limited because of a design or installation issue. The pedal arm may not hit under normal conditions when the brakes are bled but think about this. How much more pedal stroke will you need should one system of your dual brake system fail due to a major leak (broken hose, failed M/C, or any number of other causes of a serious leak)? Could the extra pedal movement needed be limited by contact with a fastener? It's easy to find out and you can determine that while you're bleeding your brakes if you perform this step by bleeding the system conventionally with the pedal.

    And while you're in this area -- make sure you set the gap on the balance bar correctly or again you may not have enough pedal throw should either the front or rear system fail. Better safe than sorry.

  23. #23

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    With the button head on the left side my pedal does clear it.
    Today I filled the system with fluid, used a pressure bleeder on the reservoirs with a vacuum bleeder on the calipers.
    My pedal will not make it to the button head.

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