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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build

  1. #41
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Lilburn, GA
    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I am a little unsure about the area Ducky is pointing at on that oil pan. Maybe they changed the design some. Completely different from where Paul determined his dipstick was hitting. Maybe he can chime in with his photo as well.
    After reading that there was an issue, I installed the pan (before modification), only installing a few bolts (loosely) on the opposite side of the dip stick. I lifted the pan an inch or so and pushed the dip stick in until it hit. Seeing where it touched, I marked it with a sharpie. Had to remove the pan to mark it. I re-installed to verify, then drilled. The hole looks slightly off center in the pic. That's due to the fact I had to lift so much to take the pic. Looked better with a minimal crack to peak through. See pic
    NOTE: I also turned the dip stick 180 degrees to verify it didn't have a bend and would hang up if installed 180 out.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-08-2018 at 12:40 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Painted 3/23/18. Mipa brand paint, color B-5-09600.500, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread:

  2. #42

    Oil pan and pickup - Take 2!

    I guess it's more important to post about your failures than your successes so that others can benefit from the experience. That being said, as I was taking the box for my oil pan pickup to the recycle bin I found a small envelope with a large O-Ring in it! Oops, I'm guessing that is important, so everything is coming back off. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise as it gave me an opportunity to double-check the issue that Ducky2009 was bringing up and he was 100% correct!

    Here is the O-Ring I didn't notice the first time, so got that in place

    One quick look at the oil pan and it was obvious that the "slight interference" I was feeling was much bigger than I thought and exactly as Ducky described. Hopefully this will be useful to others, you can't just assume that what worked for others will work for you. You need to test this. It's as easy as putting the oil pan in place and installing a few bolts to hold it and then insert and remove your dipstick several times and the steel dipstick will easily scratch the aluminum to show you exactly where contact is happening.

    A center punch and step drill made quick work of opening up this area for the dipstick. Cleaning out all the chips again is a pain, but two-steps forward and 1 step back seems to be my MO. Now that last inch of inserting the dipstick is completely smooth and I no longer hear any contact being made - problem solved!

    You can see from this photo there is a rather large area that the dipstick can emerge from so easy to see that the path it takes can vary quite a bit depending on the engine, the pan, and how you choose to insert the dipstick.

    Last edited by shark92651; 04-08-2018 at 01:58 PM.
    Coming soon: MK4 Coyote build

  3. #43

    Powertrain mostly assembled

    Well another week has gone buy and my kit is still sitting in the warehouse at FFR Jolene at Stewart Transport implied that my kit may get picked up next week, but she didn't actually commit so fingers crossed. I did receive the correct wide engine cradle from stumpysfabworks so I was able to get the Coyote off the engine stand and get some work done on my powertrain.

    Cleaned the flywheel and clutch plates very well with brake cleaner and acetone and got the clutch installed with the alignment tool and properly torqued down.

    Next I got the bellhousing installed and torqued down to the backer plate and the block.

    I then was able to setup and install my Tilton release bearing. It's a fairly simple process that requires measuring with calipers and a straight edge from the face of the bellhousing to where the bearing makes contact with the diaphragm spring fingers. You then subtract .125 for an air gap. In my case that came out to 3.84". You then turn the threaded adjustment sleeve on the release bearing until you set that distance from the front of the bearing to the face of the transmission where the bellhousing is mounted. You then remove one of the transmission bearing bolts and replace it with the supplied threaded guide rod which prevents the HRB from rotating.

    If the guide rod extends beyond the face of the bearing you are supposed to cut it down to avoid interference. In my case it did not, but I cut it down anyway because I'm afraid there could be possible contact with the centrifugal weights on the Centerforce clutch and that would be bad. You just need enough rod to prevent rotation.

    Coming soon: MK4 Coyote build

  4. #44
    That's about all I can do for now. I need to figure out what size bolts I need to mount the transmission to the bellhousing. So far from a few minutes of Googling I cannot find that info. Anybody know? I suppose I could make a call to QuickTime on Monday if I don't have a bolt lying around that fits.

    UPDATE: Just to clarify, the correct bolts are Grade 10.9 Flanged Head M10-1.5 x 30mm. The official part from Quick Time is RM-170 but a little pricey. I just picked up some bolts at my local hardware store. The threads on my bellhousing were a little jacked so I chased them with a tap and all is good now.

    Last edited by shark92651; 04-15-2018 at 12:55 PM.
    Coming soon: MK4 Coyote build

  5. #45
    Here is a shot from inside the bellhousing after trans installed. It's a bit hard to make out but you can see the 1/8" clearance between bearing and fingers and looks to be no interference issues at all. Cool

    Coming soon: MK4 Coyote build

  6. #46
    Looking good so far.
    When Jolene says next week does she mean the week of the 16th or 23rd?
    She has told me mine will be picked up the week of the 23rd so it will arrive when my son returns from boot camp.
    Ours might be on the same truck.

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by Rsnake View Post
    Looking good so far.
    When Jolene says next week does she mean the week of the 16th or 23rd?
    She has told me mine will be picked up the week of the 23rd so it will arrive when my son returns from boot camp.
    Ours might be on the same truck.
    I'll be upset if I don't get a call this week that it is on the truck, but I think it is going to happen.
    Coming soon: MK4 Coyote build

  8. #48
    The waiting has been the hardest part. I hope you get the call.

  9. #49
    And just for completeness, here is a pic of the installed starter.

    Coming soon: MK4 Coyote build

  10. #50

    Stewart Transport update

    Got an email from Stewart Transport that increased their estimated delays from 7-10 days to 21 days. I called FFR and talked to someone in the warehouse and they said that Stewart was sending 2 trucks this week and that they are "up to" the week of my build, but they don't think my kit is going to make it onto either of those trucks - not what I wanted to hear. Here is a photo of my kit sitting in the warehouse. Poor thing looks so homesick to me.

    Coming soon: MK4 Coyote build

  11. #51
    I think the only thing harder than waiting on the kit is waiting on crucial parts after you have the kit! The consolation is you get to walk out to the garage and look at it. It will be more than 2 months from the time of delivery until I get my shocks...ugh!

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