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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Major Setback

  1. #41
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wareaglescott View Post
    I am a little unsure about the area Ducky is pointing at on that oil pan. Maybe they changed the design some. Completely different from where Paul determined his dipstick was hitting. Maybe he can chime in with his photo as well.
    After reading that there was an issue, I installed the pan (before modification), only installing a few bolts (loosely) on the opposite side of the dip stick. I lifted the pan an inch or so and pushed the dip stick in until it hit. Seeing where it touched, I marked it with a sharpie. Had to remove the pan to mark it. I re-installed to verify, then drilled. The hole looks slightly off center in the pic. That's due to the fact I had to lift so much to take the pic. Looked better with a minimal crack to peak through. See pic
    NOTE: I also turned the dip stick 180 degrees to verify it didn't have a bend and would hang up if installed 180 out.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-08-2018 at 12:40 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  2. #42
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Oil pan and pickup - Take 2!

    I guess it's more important to post about your failures than your successes so that others can benefit from the experience. That being said, as I was taking the box for my oil pan pickup to the recycle bin I found a small envelope with a large O-Ring in it! Oops, I'm guessing that is important, so everything is coming back off. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise as it gave me an opportunity to double-check the issue that Ducky2009 was bringing up and he was 100% correct!

    Here is the O-Ring I didn't notice the first time, so got that in place


    One quick look at the oil pan and it was obvious that the "slight interference" I was feeling was much bigger than I thought and exactly as Ducky described. Hopefully this will be useful to others, you can't just assume that what worked for others will work for you. You need to test this. It's as easy as putting the oil pan in place and installing a few bolts to hold it and then insert and remove your dipstick several times and the steel dipstick will easily scratch the aluminum to show you exactly where contact is happening.



    A center punch and step drill made quick work of opening up this area for the dipstick. Cleaning out all the chips again is a pain, but two-steps forward and 1 step back seems to be my MO. Now that last inch of inserting the dipstick is completely smooth and I no longer hear any contact being made - problem solved!



    You can see from this photo there is a rather large area that the dipstick can emerge from so easy to see that the path it takes can vary quite a bit depending on the engine, the pan, and how you choose to insert the dipstick.

    Last edited by shark92651; 04-08-2018 at 01:58 PM.

  3. #43
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Powertrain mostly assembled

    Well another week has gone buy and my kit is still sitting in the warehouse at FFR Jolene at Stewart Transport implied that my kit may get picked up next week, but she didn't actually commit so fingers crossed. I did receive the correct wide engine cradle from stumpysfabworks so I was able to get the Coyote off the engine stand and get some work done on my powertrain.

    Cleaned the flywheel and clutch plates very well with brake cleaner and acetone and got the clutch installed with the alignment tool and properly torqued down.







    Next I got the bellhousing installed and torqued down to the backer plate and the block.



    I then was able to setup and install my Tilton release bearing. It's a fairly simple process that requires measuring with calipers and a straight edge from the face of the bellhousing to where the bearing makes contact with the diaphragm spring fingers. You then subtract .125 for an air gap. In my case that came out to 3.84". You then turn the threaded adjustment sleeve on the release bearing until you set that distance from the front of the bearing to the face of the transmission where the bellhousing is mounted. You then remove one of the transmission bearing bolts and replace it with the supplied threaded guide rod which prevents the HRB from rotating.



    If the guide rod extends beyond the face of the bearing you are supposed to cut it down to avoid interference. In my case it did not, but I cut it down anyway because I'm afraid there could be possible contact with the centrifugal weights on the Centerforce clutch and that would be bad. You just need enough rod to prevent rotation.


  4. #44
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    That's about all I can do for now. I need to figure out what size bolts I need to mount the transmission to the bellhousing. So far from a few minutes of Googling I cannot find that info. Anybody know? I suppose I could make a call to QuickTime on Monday if I don't have a bolt lying around that fits.

    UPDATE: Just to clarify, the correct bolts are Grade 10.9 Flanged Head M10-1.5 x 30mm. The official part from Quick Time is RM-170 but a little pricey. I just picked up some bolts at my local hardware store. The threads on my bellhousing were a little jacked so I chased them with a tap and all is good now.

    Last edited by shark92651; 04-15-2018 at 12:55 PM.

  5. #45
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Here is a shot from inside the bellhousing after trans installed. It's a bit hard to make out but you can see the 1/8" clearance between bearing and fingers and looks to be no interference issues at all. Cool


  6. #46
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    Looking good so far.
    When Jolene says next week does she mean the week of the 16th or 23rd?
    She has told me mine will be picked up the week of the 23rd so it will arrive when my son returns from boot camp.
    Ours might be on the same truck.

  7. #47
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rsnake View Post
    Looking good so far.
    When Jolene says next week does she mean the week of the 16th or 23rd?
    She has told me mine will be picked up the week of the 23rd so it will arrive when my son returns from boot camp.
    Ours might be on the same truck.
    I'll be upset if I don't get a call this week that it is on the truck, but I think it is going to happen.

  8. #48
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    The waiting has been the hardest part. I hope you get the call.

  9. #49
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    And just for completeness, here is a pic of the installed starter.


  10. #50
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Stewart Transport update

    Got an email from Stewart Transport that increased their estimated delays from 7-10 days to 21 days. I called FFR and talked to someone in the warehouse and they said that Stewart was sending 2 trucks this week and that they are "up to" the week of my build, but they don't think my kit is going to make it onto either of those trucks - not what I wanted to hear. Here is a photo of my kit sitting in the warehouse. Poor thing looks so homesick to me.


  11. #51
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    I think the only thing harder than waiting on the kit is waiting on crucial parts after you have the kit! The consolation is you get to walk out to the garage and look at it. It will be more than 2 months from the time of delivery until I get my shocks...ugh!

  12. #52
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    I think the only thing harder than waiting on the kit is waiting on crucial parts after you have the kit! The consolation is you get to walk out to the garage and look at it. It will be more than 2 months from the time of delivery until I get my shocks...ugh!
    Yeah I just emailed Stewart again and found out that my kit did NOT get picked up this week, but they promise next week, even gave me the name of the driver. The frustrating part is I just saw a post from a guy on the Factory Five Builder Facebook page that his kit just got picked up today, yet his kit was completed just a week ago on 4/14. Mine has been sitting there ready since 3/24! Probably has something to do with the route and his location in the country but still leaves me feeling frustrated.

  13. #53
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    That's frustrating! I struggled with Stewart as well but not to this degree. Cross your fingers that when the truck does get there the driver doesn't drop your car from the winch like he did mine! No damage was done (only dropped a foot or so back down on the support rail in the truck) but it made my heart stop regardless!

  14. #54
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Glovebox upgrades

    This week I received the standard glovebox I ordered from Alex's Custom Roadsters. Overall I am impressed with the quality of the glovebox and I think it will look great on my dash. I sent Alex a piece of my interior leather and he covered the door with it and did a great job. The door is heavy and solid and the latches are very substantial - it's WAY better than the cheap glovebox on Factory Five's padded dash, which will bend like a piece of thin paper if you push on one side of it. There are a couple upgrades I made to the glovebox, however. First you can see that the latch slides into a slot cut into the top of the glovebox. I found that depending on how much pressure you use when closing the door that the latch may not always line up with the slot so may take a bit of back and forth movement to find the right position. I made a back stop out of 3/4" aluminum angle for a positive stop right at the slot - gave me a chance to practice with my powder coating setup as well. I also purchased some nylon flocking fibers, acrylic paint, and a flocking tube from craftflocking.com and flocked the inside of the glovebox. I like the velvety look and feel much more than the shiny plastic.








  15. #55
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Yeah I just emailed Stewart again and found out that my kit did NOT get picked up this week, but they promise next week, even gave me the name of the driver. The frustrating part is I just saw a post from a guy on the Factory Five Builder Facebook page that his kit just got picked up today, yet his kit was completed just a week ago on 4/14. Mine has been sitting there ready since 3/24! Probably has something to do with the route and his location in the country but still leaves me feeling frustrated.
    I don't blame you. After reviewing some of these threads going back to 2016, it would seem that FFR would have a better control on delivery and kit contents? I work for a national manufacturer myself and unless we are having a materials or truck shortage, which is very rare, everything is delivered in full. In fact, if we don't deliver in full, we end up paying for it through our contracts to our retailers.

    I realize that a lot goes into one of these kits, but when does it get to a point where you get your kit a week or two after completion and it's 100% in full? Mine will be ready on 6/16. Hopefully there are no delays!

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    I don't blame you. After reviewing some of these threads going back to 2016, it would seem that FFR would have a better control on delivery and kit contents? I work for a national manufacturer myself and unless we are having a materials or truck shortage, which is very rare, everything is delivered in full. In fact, if we don't deliver in full, we end up paying for it through our contracts to our retailers.

    I realize that a lot goes into one of these kits, but when does it get to a point where you get your kit a week or two after completion and it's 100% in full? Mine will be ready on 6/16. Hopefully there are no delays!
    Really tough about the delivery delays. I've done several self pickups, and only one Stewart delivery. I was pretty lucky it was only a couple weeks between completion and delivery. And that seemed like a long time! Really feel for builders caught up in this issue with Stewart. Factory Five is selling a lot of kits right now and Stewart is having trouble keeping up. That's what the driver told me in December. Apparently as well they've had driver and truck issues not the least bit helped by a long and crummy winter. Not good to say the least. Hopefully they will get it sorted out soon.

    Just to be clear though, Factory Five doesn't control Stewart. They're a separate company. Factory Five provides them with the lists of kits, dates, and destinations. Stewart takes it from there. In my conversations with Factory Five, they strongly encouraged me to stay in constant contact with them (Jolene) and once my kit was picked up I'd be in contact with the driver. That's pretty much how it worked out.

    Regarding backordered parts, I've talked about this in each of my build threads. I'm not defending it, but it's a reality. I too worked for several large multi-nationals and that level of backorders would not be tolerated. But (again, not defending, just stating the way it is...) they're a small company doing a pretty complex and unique job. We had way more sophisticated planning and delivery systems, many more people, and a lot more clout with our vendors. Best bet is to expect backorders, don't let it disappoint you or get you down, follow-up regularly once you know what they are (which you won't until the actual delivery), and be prepared to be flexible with the initial stages of your build. You may need to jump around a little at first, depending on your build speed. Once you get the backorder parts behind you, you'll totally forget about it. Trust me. But it's painful at first. I know.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-22-2018 at 04:34 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  17. #57
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    But (again, not defending, just stating the way it is...) they're a small company doing a pretty complex and unique job. We had way more sophisticated planning and delivery systems, many more people, and a lot more clout with our vendors. Best bet is to expect backorders, don't let it disappoint you or get you down, follow-up regularly once you know what they are (which you won't until the actual delivery), and be prepared to be flexible with the initial stages of your build. You may need to jump around a little at first, depending on your build speed. Once you get the backorder parts behind you, you'll totally forget about it. Trust me. But it's painful at first. I know.
    Good points. I would have tried to pick mine up myself, but I'm so far away that even a U-Haul is the same price as Stewart curbside, so can't complain too much. Just got to keep focused on that end product and starting up the first go kart!!

  18. #58
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Didn't hear from Stewart this week either so I called FFR. Sally says it looks like it may get picked up on Monday.


  19. #59
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    Just making sure - you used new flywheel bolts when you re-installed, yes? Hoping others can learn from my mistake.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, Roller: 12 Jan 2018

    Forte: 2016 Coyote & cover, alternator, engine controls, clutch kit, bellhousing, Moroso pan, TKO600, midshift, 3.55 axle, 190lph fuel pump, Spectre air inlet and filter. Breeze: battery forward and switch, fuel pressure regulator and braided hose, radiator shroud and mounts. Replicaparts: radiator panel, under dash panel, weathertight connectors.

  20. #60
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Yeah I did, the 2nd time Thanks

  21. #61
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    I swapped some emails with Jolene at Stewart on Wednesday and she said they have multiple trucks on the way to factory five to pick up kits. So I am assuming Monday might be the day. Ours might be on the same truck.

  22. #62
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Well I finally received word from Stewart that my kit is on the truck and should be delivered to me either Monday or Tuesday.

  23. #63
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    I have a feeling our kits are on the same truck. Stewart said mine was heading to Phoenix to be offloaded to another truck and on the way to California.
    Texas is sort of on the way to Arizona.

  24. #64
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    My kit has finally arrived!

    Well after many weeks delay my kit has finally arrived. I promise I'll stop complaining about how long it is taking now






  25. #65
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    Congratulations!

  26. #66
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    Congratulations! Let the fun begin. Did you see any other cars in the truck? I am hoping mine is in there.

  27. #67
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rsnake View Post
    Congratulations! Let the fun begin. Did you see any other cars in the truck? I am hoping mine is in there.
    There was a Hot Rod in there in front of mine and a Mk4 body getting delivered to a painter. I think there was one more MK4 behind mine but I didn't get a good look.
    Last edited by shark92651; 05-07-2018 at 10:19 PM.

  28. #68
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Right on!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  29. #69
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    Yay!! Inventory! And Congratulations!
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  30. #70
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    If you look at the photo in my post #30 you can see the material I trimmed in my pan. In testing, it feels and sounds like it is making very minimal contact. I think it is just touching the vertical wall of the area I milled out and then deflecting slightly down it. I don't think it is going to be an issue like it would be if it were deflecting 90 degrees.


    The original Moroso pans for the Coyotes that came out in 2011/12 didn't have the slot for the dip stick. There were a number of fixes on forums that included shortening the dip stick and re-indexing a new scale on it. Moroso, having great customer service, supplied new a replacement inner horizontal baffle plate with the slot in it for the dip stick. I called them with part number of the pan and they shipped me one free of charge. I didn't need to provide proof of purchase. Now, on newer Coyotes, it appears the dip stick location has shifted slightly. The fix plate for my 2012 Coyote/Moroso worked as designed.

  31. #71
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Congrats! Let the building commence!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  32. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    The original Moroso pans for the Coyotes that came out in 2011/12 didn't have the slot for the dip stick. There were a number of fixes on forums that included shortening the dip stick and re-indexing a new scale on it. Moroso, having great customer service, supplied new a replacement inner horizontal baffle plate with the slot in it for the dip stick. I called them with part number of the pan and they shipped me one free of charge. I didn't need to provide proof of purchase. Now, on newer Coyotes, it appears the dip stick location has shifted slightly. The fix plate for my 2012 Coyote/Moroso worked as designed.
    I can confirm that the Moroso pan used with Gen-2 Coyote needs a new hole. Mine looks remarkably like Shark's, unsurprisingly.
    IMG_2947.JPG
    IMG_2949.JPG
    IMG_2948.JPG

    Be prepared to spend a long time getting all the metal shavings out.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, Roller: 12 Jan 2018

    Forte: 2016 Coyote & cover, alternator, engine controls, clutch kit, bellhousing, Moroso pan, TKO600, midshift, 3.55 axle, 190lph fuel pump, Spectre air inlet and filter. Breeze: battery forward and switch, fuel pressure regulator and braided hose, radiator shroud and mounts. Replicaparts: radiator panel, under dash panel, weathertight connectors.

  33. #73
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    This weeks update

    I'm waiting on control arms for the front and rear, toe arms for the rear, and all four shocks - that going to put a damper on the suspension assembly for awhile, but there is plenty to work on.



    I got the body on the buck and the boxes in the garage. I've started inventory, that is going to take awhile.



    I got all the chassis installed panels marked and removed



    I mocked up the dual stainless breeze roll bars. I've got a welder lined up to come over and tack them and make a couple other welds for me and he wanted some pics.



    I don't want to see any of the brackets for the tank straps in the trunk, so I decided to cut them both off. I'll fabricate a new bracket out of 16 ga steel to weld in at the same height as the DS bracket, and modify the PS strap to fit.



    I got the diff painted with POR-15.



    I'm also a member of the "yes I have friends, no they weren't available to help" school of roadster assembly. Between my floor jack with homemade trans platform, engine crane, and tie-down straps I was able to get it into place all by myself and all four of the bolts went in with little effort. Woot!

    Last edited by shark92651; 05-13-2018 at 12:53 PM.

  34. #74
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    Great progress!

  35. #75
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Started installing IRS components

    I didn't get as much time to work on my kit this weekend as I would have liked, but my back-ordered control arms did come in late Saturday and I received my dropped trunk kit from Russ Thompson.



    I cut the ends off of the rear spindles using my angle grinder and a cutting wheel, cleaned up with a flap disc.



    I had a heck of a time swapping out the wheel studs. The FFR recomended method to remove the old studs (grab head of stud in vice, bang out with hammer) worked pretty well but their method to draw in the new studs with a lug nut and washer did not. I got one in with great effort, but about 1/2 way through the 2nd stud the lug nut was getting destroyed, the washers were bending up, etc... So I went to Home Depot and bought a large bolt to use as a punch, ground down the threads on one side, and used a socket in the vice and beat the studs in with a 4lb hammer. It took about a dozen blows to fully seat each stud, but I got them all in.



    Here are the completed spindles and hubs. You can see the socket and hammer blows marred the hubs a bit, but I guess it shouldn't cause me to lose too much sleep since they will be hidden.



    I also ordered up some stainless bolts and couplers from McMaster Carr for the rear Quick Jacks mod.



    Next I started to install all the IRS control and toe arms. A tip I picked up at the Mott's school was to cut some thin, radial grooves in the end of the bushing with a hack saw in order to help the grease flow across the face of the bushing. I have no idea if this will make a difference, but did it anyway. It seems that it should help.



    It took quite a bit of coaxing with my precision "knockometer" to get the upper and lower control arms in place, but I finally got all the bolts loosely installed. I need to paint my sway bar mounts and get those in place so a few of those bolts will have to come back out, I hope the arms don't move on me. I discovered that FFR sent me 16mm bolts instead of 14mm for mounting the toe arms to the spindles, so I am going to have to wait on new bolts before I can attach the spindles.



    Next I started assembly of my Russ Thompson dropped trunk kit. I need just a little more tweaking of the floor cutout and then can drill out the holes to attach it to the floor. I plan on cutting the diagonals tubes and re-welding them in new locations to help support the box and rear frame. Hopefully I can get these two projects finished up soon and move onto something else.

  36. #76
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Here are a few more items I worked on since last weekend:



    I powder coated the mounting brackets for the rear sway bar. Here they are fresh out of the oven. Didn't turn out too bad but I see a bit of "orange peel", I think I put too much powder on it, but not bad for first attempt.



    I mounted my rear spindles. Here you can see the bracket I made out of 1/8" aluminum to cover the ABS sensor hole. The hole for the 6mm bolt was not threaded so I had to tap it.



    I got the rear brakes properly shimmed and torqued. You can see that my sway bar still isn't mounted to the spindles. I took the rod ends to a local machine shop to have them cut down to size and still waiting to get them back. I didn't want to tackle that with my Dremel or sawzall. I went to Auto Zone and used their "Loan A Tool" program to get the 36mm socket to tighten the axle nut. The specs in the instructions said to torque it to 98 ft lbs "+45 degree". I could not get it to budge past 98 ft lbs even when using a breaker bar against the wheel studs to stop the hub from turning, so there is no "+45 degrees" for me. Did anyone else have an issue with this? Is it anything to worry about?



    Next I made a bracket to mount my triple reservoir. I used a piece of 2.5" angle aluminum I bought from onlinemetals.com and cut it down on the bandsaw at work. I attached it to the rail using 3 10-32 rivnuts on the top rail and fasten it with 1" socket head bolts from underneath and it is pretty flush on top. I positioned it so that the front of the reservoir is only 9.5" from the DS foot box (thanks for the specs Paul!). I went with the triple reservoirs from JAMAR. It's a bit more money than the CNC but I really like the look of it and, quite frankly, wanted to do something a little different.



    Here is a better look at the bracket and it's location after powder coating. With this long Memorial Day weekend coming up I am looking forward to getting some quality build hours in.
    Last edited by shark92651; 05-25-2018 at 10:27 PM.

  37. #77
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    On your rivet-nuts, they are designed to have compression on the flange side. I'm not really sure, but with the machine screws coming in from the back side of the rivet-nut, it may de-compress the rivet-nut and loosen up. Something to check out. Otherwise, nice clean build. Good job.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  38. #78
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    On your rivet-nuts, they are designed to have compression on the flange side. I'm not really sure, but with the machine screws coming in from the back side of the rivet-nut, it may de-compress the rivet-nut and loosen up. Something to check out. Otherwise, nice clean build. Good job.
    Yeah that might be a concern, although with three rivnuts holding this small amount of weight I don't think if it would be an issue. I'll keep an eye on it and if it does loosen, I'll just drill them out and use countersunk flat heads with nuts on the bottom.

  39. #79
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Yeah that might be a concern, although with three rivnuts holding this small amount of weight I don't think if it would be an issue. I'll keep an eye on it and if it does loosen, I'll just drill them out and use countersunk flat heads with nuts on the bottom.
    I have also had a couple spots where I did use the back side of the riv-nut, and what I did was use a longer machine screw and run a ny-lock nut down on it from the flange side. In my case it worked, but it would obviously defeat the purpose on yours. Rather than a flat head screw, you might be able to get away with button-head screws from the top. Just a thought.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  40. #80
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Your build is coming along nicely. I like those reservoirs.
    Regarding the +45 degrees on the axle nut; that’s a significant amount of torque. I’d give it another try and get that torqued correctly. I think I used the same method you described. Have someone give you a hand. You’ll sleep better knowing that assembly is correct.
    -Steve.
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

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