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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Major Setback

  1. #1
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Major Setback

    While my Kit is still about 3 weeks from delivery, I have actually started working on it already so I decided to go ahead and start a build thread so that I can consolidate all my updates and questions into a single thread. If you count the obsessive research I have been doing online, I guess you could say I have been "working" on it since December 2017. I attended the Mott Build School the weekend of 3/9 - 3/11, which I found to be excellent. I met a lot of cool people including a few more builders here in Texas.

    I've always loved the AC Cobra as long as I can remember, and have thought about building a replica off and on over the years. I finally got my mind set that I was going to build a Factory Five roadster and with a tepid buy-in from the wife (she is coming around, or at least accepted it is inevitable now) it is on now. Besides, I was born in 1965 so it's like it was meant to be

    Here is my planned build:

    MK4 Complete Kit with IRS
    Coyote 5.0L
    Tremec TKO 600
    Quicktime Bellhousing
    Ford Performance Clutch
    Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing
    KRC Power Steering
    Koni single-adjustable shocks
    13" Wilwood brakes
    18" Halibrand Wheels
    Stainless side pipes

    Other Upgrades
    Dual Breeze Stainless Roll Bars
    Russ Thompson Trunk Box (yes I'm going to cut the diagonals)
    Russ Thompson turn signals
    Competition Gauge Layout
    Leather Covered Dash w/ Glove Box
    USB Charger, 12V adapter, Footwell Lights (hidden under dash)
    Leather Removable Trans Tunnel Cover
    Leather Bucket Seats
    Leather Door Panels
    LED Headlights, turn signals, tail/brake lights, dash indicators

    Color is undecided at this point, probably one of the first items I ever thought about and will probably be the last decision I make.

    I'm really looking forward to this process and want to thank everyone that has helped me already and those that will in the future. This forum and it's participants are an invaluable resource! My experience with working on cars in not very extensive. I have installed LED lighting in the front and rear of my truck, replaced a radiator on my Z3 I used to own several years ago, and some basic maintenance, but that is about it. I've done quite a few jobs around the house (electrical, plumbing, etc.) and ran network wiring and camera systems in two offices so I know my way around tools, oh and I am REAL good at Googling and YouTubing.


    Here is my one-car garage where I will be building. It's a little tight, but I have 1/2 of the 2 car garage just across from this one to store my body and boxes of parts. Up to this point I've just been getting this work area ready.


    I had a large monitor and a Chrome Box at the office that were not being used so I mounted them on the wall over one of my workbenches and connected to my home WiFi - this should be very useful.
    Last edited by shark92651; 12-09-2018 at 12:05 PM.

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    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Body Buck

    Here is the body buck I built to store the body and boxes. I built this using the instructions in the PDF from Factory Five. It's in the two-car garage parked next to my wife's car.



  3. #3
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Tremec TKO 600

    The first part I ordered and received was the Tremec TKO 600 Upgraded/Synchronized from Liberty Gears. It has the .62 5th gear, which I think is the best choice for highway cruising. Unfortunately Liberty Gears forgot to add milling off the tail housing to my work order as I requested. They apologized and offered to have me ship it back but that is just too much trouble, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to learn how to use my new Dewalt 11amp angle grinder.



    I marked it and started with a cutting wheel. I removed the guard otherwise it was just too hard to get in there. After a bit of cutting on both sides I whacked it with the hammer and it came right off.



    I then figured it would be good to practice with the grinding disc and the flap wheel since I will need to cut the rear spindles soon enough and make them pretty. Didn't turn out too bad. I made sure to cut plenty off as I read that a few people discovered they had to cut more off once they tried dropping in the motor and trans - I want to avoid that headache.



  4. #4
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Parts are rolling in now

    I got a few boxes in from Summit Racing today. Quicktime bellhousing, Moroso oil pan and pickup, Moroso radiator reservoir, air intake parts, Tilton hydraulic release bearing and master cylinder, and a few other items.



    I bought the steel Quicktime bellhousing and also picked up a Summit universal driveshaft loop, at the recommendation of the instructors at Mott College. I think it's good insurance should something catastrophic happen on either side of the transmission. I'm kind of attached to most of my body parts and intend to keep it that way.

    Last edited by shark92651; 03-17-2018 at 06:59 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Oil Pan Questions

    Here is a pic of the oil pan. I notice it has a plug on either side and on each end, with one of the plugs missing. I assume the plug in the rear is the oil drain plug, what are the others for? I want to ditch the clock that comes with my vintage gauge kit and add an oil temperature gauge (yes I know probably unnecessary for my needs, but I want it anyway). Would I use one of these holes for the oil temp sender? Which hole should I use and what is the recommended sender unit for my application?


  6. #6
    Junior Member Venom61's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum. Building a Factory Five a great experience, but not without its challenges. This forum is a great resource. The Moroso Oil pan I received arrived with one port unplugged. From reading other posts on this forum, the open plug is for an Oil Level Sensor. We just threaded a plug into the orifice for now, but I don't see why you couldn't use it for an oil temp sender.
    Bob (Building with my son Justin)

    MK IV #9040 - Complete kit, IRS, Forte Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Delivered 2/14/17.

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    You’re going to have a blast building this. And if you’re like me, when it’s done, you’ll start looking around for your next project. After the roadster build came a 350 SBC conversion into a Porsche 944 race car. Now my team and I are ready and waiting for the ‘65 Daytona Coupe to arrive. Guess Stewart is a little backed up at the moment.

  8. #8
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Welcome to The Madness, Mr. Shark. Building a machine like this is an amazing time. Just be prepared to walk away and think things over when it doesn't seem right. Dont get in a hurry and do every step exactly the way you want it to be. Your Factory 5 Roadster will be awesome.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  9. #9
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Here is a pic of the oil pan. I notice it has a plug on either side and on each end, with one of the plugs missing. I assume the plug in the rear is the oil drain plug, what are the others for? I want to ditch the clock that comes with my vintage gauge kit and add an oil temperature gauge (yes I know probably unnecessary for my needs, but I want it anyway). Would I use one of these holes for the oil temp sender? Which hole should I use and what is the recommended sender unit for my application?
    The open threaded hole on the LH side of your Moroso pan, as already stated, is intended for the Coyote low oil sensor. My 2015 Gen 2 Coyote had the sensor. But my understanding is later years didn't include one. Moroso 22738 is available to plug it. Something else might be available, but it's 20mm x 1.5mm threads, so maybe not too common.

    The rear plug is the oil drain. Front one, I don't know. The bung on the RH side is for an oil temp sender. You could have it on either side, but likely that one is the more common threads. If you buy an oil temp gauge from Speedhut, it will come with a sender. Sidebar, I had an oil temp gauge on #7750. It was interesting I guess. But didn't really tell me anything. For the most part, tended to follow water temp. For track use, probably has some value because it will go and down depending on how hard you're working the engine. But for street cruising, oil pressure and water temp get the job done IMO.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-17-2018 at 08:30 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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    I am wiring my 17 coyote now. The wire for the oil temp is in the convolute with the oil pressure and water temp leads which would be the left side of the motor or pan. My oil pan just clears my motor mounts going in and out. I actually had to move the motor forward as I lowered it to get the bungs to clear the mounts. Iím not sure how youíd do it with a sender threaded into one of them. I am not using an oil temp gauge on mine so I didnít have to sort out the actual thread.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  11. #11
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Shark, I'm impressed with how clean and organized your shop is. And you have clearly done your research. I look forward to your build thread. If you ever want to see the sloppy "winging it" technique just check out my build thread!

    Mark
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  12. #12
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Looking over my transmission today and I read that some people ordered billet plugs for the mechanical speedometer. This is what I see on my TKO 600 from Liberty Gears. Do I need to order anything or did they already plug it?



    Also, do I need to do anything with these plugs/wires or just leave them as is?



  13. #13
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Received my engine today

    Also I received this today and got it into the garage and up on blocks. I won't be able to do much to it until I get my engine lift brackets (ordered from FFR, coming with my kit). I guess in the meantime I can read up on how to mount the oil pan and pickup and remove that oil cooler. I have the short oil filter adapter on the way from Tasco. Did I read correctly that the proper tools to remove the oil cooler is a 14mm allen and a breaker bar?


  14. #14
    wareaglescott's Avatar
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    Cant remember the size of the allen but that sounds right. You do not need a breaker bar. If you have the right side allen it comes off pretty easily.
    Your tranny plug looks different than mine but should be good to go. The one that comes with the transmission is just a plastic plug for shipping. I just cut off the wires as they are not needed.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottscobra

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    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Nice work space!! I will gladly follow along!! Congrats on the build.
    Higgy

  16. #16
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Also posted on the other forum: The T-56 that I received for my Coupe build a few weeks ago had the same plug in the external speed control port. I checked it out, and it's a very substantial metal plug with an O-ring and bolt. Very different than the rubber shipping plug they used to put there which had to be replaced if you didn't install a speed sensor. It's every bit as good as the various billet pieces available. Nothing further to do IMO. Thank you Tremec.

    The connection with the pigtails at the back is the neutral safety switch. Unless you're planning to wire something like that (most don't...) you don't need it. The clutch switches with your Coyote installation provide a very adequate safety setup if installed as instructed. On the TKO's I've installed, I just clipped off the leads at the base. If you're not comfortable doing that, tie off the lead so it doesn't dangle.

    The connection with the plug on the RH side is the internal speed sensor. The Coyote PCM doesn't required a speed signal. If you have the GPS speedo, you don't need it there either. Your Ron Francis harness though has a pigtail and connection for there. On my Anniversary Roadster build, I went ahead and plugged in the RF connection just to cover the connector and keep the RF pigtail from dangling. The wires aren't connected to anything up at the dash. But they're available if ever needed.

    For the oil cooler, I don't remember the exact size, but it is a hex socket that is visible when you remove the oil filter. Same exact socket as in the short adapter you already have on hand.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  17. #17
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    There is not a whole lot for me to work on while waiting for my kit to arrive, but I did take the flywheel off and put the blocking plate on behind it and re-torqued the flywheel bolts. Should I replace these? They seemed perfectly fine, no galling of any kind that I could see. This is probably not news to most, but in order to keep the flywheel from turning while removing/installing the bolts I used a couple of the pressure plate bolts and a pry bar between them. I wish I had my clutch to install but it is supposed to ship on Monday.



    I went to a local Cobra Club meet on Saturday and when I got back my Wilwood brakes were waiting for me! I couldn't resist putting those together. I discovered that safety wiring is not one of my favorite tasks, but I managed to get through all four rotors. I'm glad that is over with. These brakes look awesome, I can't wait to bolt them in place!







    One last minor update. I want to put a couple cup holders in my trans cover near the dash - mostly a place to hold my phone while charging it with a USB port I plan to hide below the dash, but also a place to hold small items or maybe even a drink, LOL! Anyway someone suggested these jumbo size stainless poker table cup holders. They are 4" wide from edge to edge of the lip with 3.5" width inside - perfect for my iPhone X. I wanted some rubber liners and I found these Nissan Armada cup holder liners on eBay and they are exactly 3.5" diameter and they fit like a glove!



    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rch_detailpage
    The inserts I found on eBay - they are 2016-18 Nissan Armada Front Center Console Cup Holder Rubber Insert Liner

  18. #18
    Junior Member Logan's Avatar
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    If that's your first time safety wiring, you could've fooled me. It looks pretty good, and believe me when I say I've seen some sketchy safety wired stuff at motorcycle track events.

    As far as the flywheel bolts are concerned, it's not usually a galling issue (steel fasteners and steel threads in the crankshaft). When you hear "replace flywheel bolts any time they're removed" it's typically due to the threads of the fastener stretching when torqued to yield. Sometimes the OEM specs a torque (lb-ft) plus an additional angle (degrees) that the flywheel bolts are tightened to, and that makes them a one-use deal. It's a lot easier to pop new bolts in at this step than to have one come out later on when it's all put together in the car.

    Looking good so far! I really like the coating on your garage floor.
    Logan Ficken

    FFR Fanatic Since 1998
    Future builder of Roadster/Coupe
    2017 Mustang GT PP #95

  19. #19
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logan View Post
    If that's your first time safety wiring, you could've fooled me. It looks pretty good, and believe me when I say I've seen some sketchy safety wired stuff at motorcycle track events.

    As far as the flywheel bolts are concerned, it's not usually a galling issue (steel fasteners and steel threads in the crankshaft). When you hear "replace flywheel bolts any time they're removed" it's typically due to the threads of the fastener stretching when torqued to yield. Sometimes the OEM specs a torque (lb-ft) plus an additional angle (degrees) that the flywheel bolts are tightened to, and that makes them a one-use deal. It's a lot easier to pop new bolts in at this step than to have one come out later on when it's all put together in the car.

    Looking good so far! I really like the coating on your garage floor.
    Thanks Logan, I just bought a set of safety wire pliers from HF and watched a youtube video. It wasn't too difficult, but a pain to fish the wire through some of the bolt heads. I went ahead and ordered a new set of flywheel bolts so will replace those when I get my clutch in and hopefully won't have to mess with them again. Getting the garage floors coated was my first home improvement after moving into the new house, that and the monkey bars shelving - best upgrade ever!

  20. #20
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Another question about the oil pan. I received this 20mm Moroso plug and I notice it has a wide head and a copper washer, similar to the drain plug that came on the pan. The other two plugs that came with the pan have no head and no washer, but appear to have what looks like anti-seize compound on the threads. Will both of these plugs work easily well at sealing without leaks or am I supposed to use some teflon tape or some other product on the threads of the plugs without a head?


  21. #21
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Also as posted on the other forum: You're looking at two different thread types there. The two plugs with no head or washer (intended for optional supercharger drain back and oil temperature sender) are tapered 1/2-inch NPT threads. They should be tight after 4-5-6 turns. Standard practice on that type of thread to use a sealant or tape. For automotive use, I strongly recommend sealant. But that's a whole other discussion. Either will work in this application. The other two -- the drain plug and oil level sensor you pictured -- are straight cut threads and use a copper crush washer. No sealant required, although it's generally recommended to use a new crush washer each time it's removed.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  22. #22
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Also as posted on the other forum: You're looking at two different thread types there. The two plugs with no head or washer (intended for optional supercharger drain back and oil temperature sender) are tapered 1/2-inch NPT threads. They should be tight after 4-5-6 turns. Standard practice on that type of thread to use a sealant or tape. For automotive use, I strongly recommend sealant. But that's a whole other discussion. Either will work in this application. The other two -- the drain plug and oil level sensor you pictured -- are straight cut threads and use a copper crush washer. No sealant required, although it's generally recommended to use a new crush washer each time it's removed.
    Thanks Paul, you are a wealth of knowledge! I still have a lot to learn. So when dealing with NPT, I assume the 1/2" or 1/8" measurement is the ID?
    Last edited by shark92651; 03-27-2018 at 11:13 AM.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post

    One last minor update. I want to put a couple cup holders in my trans cover near the dash - mostly a place to hold my phone while charging it with a USB port I plan to hide below the dash, but also a place to hold small items or maybe even a drink, LOL! Anyway someone suggested these jumbo size stainless poker table cup holders. They are 4" wide from edge to edge of the lip with 3.5" width inside - perfect for my iPhone X. I wanted some rubber liners and I found these Nissan Armada cup holder liners on eBay and they are exactly 3.5" diameter and they fit like a glove!



    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rch_detailpage
    The inserts I found on eBay - they are 2016-18 Nissan Armada Front Center Console Cup Holder Rubber Insert Liner
    Good find on the Armada cup holder liners. Do they come out easy if you have a bigger cup to drop in?
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  24. #24
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Thanks Paul, you are a wealth of knowledge! I still have a lot to learn. So when dealing with NPT, I assume the 1/2" or 1/8" measurement is the ID?
    NPT is different than most others. The cited size is roughly related to the ID. But there are other factors. Your best bet it consult a chart like this one.

    https://www.pyromation.com/Downloads...read_Chart.pdf
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  25. #25
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yama-Bro View Post
    Good find on the Armada cup holder liners. Do they come out easy if you have a bigger cup to drop in?
    yes they are ribbed on the back so if you squeeze one side with your fingers it will pull out pretty easily.

  26. #26
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    Shark, welcome and congratulations! It looks like we are building almost the same car, lots of similarities. It looks like you are off to a great start. I will be following along and will try and keep up.

  27. #27
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Shark, welcome and congratulations! It looks like we are building almost the same car, lots of similarities. It looks like you are off to a great start. I will be following along and will try and keep up.
    Good luck on your build as well. I just found out today that Stewart Transport is about 10 days behind schedule so my kit did not get loaded this week after all. This is like a kid finding out out Christmas Eve that Santa is a going to be 2 weeks late

  28. #28
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    Waiting is the worst! But when that truck pulls up in front of your house it is truly like Christmas, birthday, Super Bowl Sunday all rolled into one!

  29. #29
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    I received the same news on my delivery but they say it will be picked up on Monday......let's hope they are right!! Looks like our builds will be on the same timeline!

  30. #30
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Hopefully my kit will be picked up this week, but no word on that yet. I didn't get a whole lot of work done this weekend because I couldn't get the engine on the stand. I couldn't source the grade 10.9 M10 x 1.5 x 100mm bolts locally so going to have to wait on a delivery from McMaster this week. I did manage to get a few things done, however.

    As others have mentioned, I removed some material in the oil pan in the area that may cause interference with the dipstick. I used a rotary burr file on the angle grinder to get the bulk of the material off and finished it up with small sanding drums on the Dremel. Cleaning out all the bits of aluminum was a pain. I removed that top plate and then used hot water and Simple Green. I wiped it out with paper towels and then blew it out with my compressor. It took awhile but I finally got it all out.



    I got my clutch in this week and of course the dowels had to be swapped so I took the flywheel back off. I flipped it upside down and laid it across a couple 2x4's and drove out the old dowels with a 1/4" punch.



    To drive the new dowels in I used a cool tip I saw on Youtube. I took a large bolt and I drilled a 1/4" hole into the head just deep enough to set the dowels slightly recessed into the flywheel. I also ground off the raised identification letters on the head of the bolt so that it wouldn't stamp them into the flywheel. I have no idea if that would actually happen, but didn't want to take a chance. I also left the dowels in the freezer overnight, just a touch of oil, used my homemade starter punch, and they drove in very easily. Flywheel is now installed with new flywheel bolts, properly torqued to 177 in/lbs + 60 degrees.







    I borrowed lift brackets from a friend so I was finally able to get the engine off the pallet. I may have to shorten those chains when I am putting it in the car to get enough height out of it. I put the motor on the fixed engine cradle I bought from https://www.stumpysfabworks.com/ so that I could drain the oil. Of course I then realized I bought the wrong cradle. It works great for the stock oil pan but it isn't going to clear the Moroso pan. I emailed Kurt asking if I could exchange it, hopefully that won't be an issue. For those looking for an engine cradle, the price and quality is right at Stumpy's. The model you want for the Coyote and the Moroso pan is the MOD-PAW - "W" for Wide.



    Last edited by shark92651; 04-06-2018 at 09:13 PM.

  31. #31
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    I can confirm that the tool you need to get that oil cooler off is a 14mm hex. It came off real easy with the proper bit and a ratchet.




    This is what a homer bucket of synthetic motor oil looks like. I bought a clean bucket and lid on my last trip to Home Depot so that I could save and reuse all this. Well I guess there isn't anything for me to do at this point until I get those bolts in and get the engine on the stand. Hopefully next update will be with the oil pan and pickup, clutch, bellhousing, Tilton hydraulic unit, and transmission all installed.

    Last edited by shark92651; 04-01-2018 at 08:12 AM.

  32. #32
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    This is the sort of random thing my mind comes up with when I have nothing to work on. I was looking at the stand for the monitor I mounted on the wall. It's pretty thick 12 ga steel with a plastic cover and I got an idea. 30 minutes later after using a 1" hole saw on it and then opening it up a bit more with the Dremel, I now have a pretty decent transmission platform for my floor jack. This should prove useful for the rear diff and the gas tank.



    Last edited by shark92651; 04-01-2018 at 01:20 PM.

  33. #33
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Oil pan and pickup swapped out

    Well another week has gone by and no word of my kit being picked up I did manage to get the engine mounted to a stand I borrowed from a friend and got the oil pan and pickup swapped out. The pickup had a little surface rust on it so I cleaned it up with a Scotch Brite pad and then wiped it down with some motor oil. I'm glad to get this part done - I'm not a big fan of using this rotating engine stand, makes me a bit nervous. I'll be glad when it's back on the ground in the engine cradle.





    Here is a shot of the adapter and the oil temp sender I purchased. Someone said there may be interference with the frame and this sender - anybody know if that is the case?


  34. #34
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Here is a shot of the adapter and the oil temp sender I purchased. Someone said there may be interference with the frame and this sender - anybody know if that is the case?

    There is a little under 3 inches between the sides of the Coyote Moroso pan and the 4 inch frame tubes in the Roadster. Nearly the same on both sides. Can't tell for sure, but looks like you might be OK. I'd recommend leaving it off until the engine is installed though. One less thing to bump into. Plus I'd figure out something different if you can't get it on/off with the engine installed.
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  35. #35
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    There is a little under 3 inches between the sides of the Coyote Moroso pan and the 4 inch frame tubes in the Roadster. Nearly the same on both sides. Can't tell for sure, but looks like you might be OK. I'd recommend leaving it off until the engine is installed though. One less thing to bump into. Plus I'd figure out something different if you can't get it on/off with the engine installed.
    Thanks Paul. I guess I'll wait until the engine is installed before I put the oil back in it just in case I do have to swap that out or remove it temporarily.

  36. #36
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Alternator installed

    I got my back-ordered alternator kit in yesterday so I went ahead and installed it. Pretty straightforward install, despite the lack of any real instructions other than a diagram with torque values.





    The instructions don't address this pulley at all. I assume it could be used in place of the silver one on the tensioner. Any reason to use one over the other?


  37. #37
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Well another week has gone by and no word of my kit being picked up I did manage to get the engine mounted to a stand I borrowed from a friend and got the oil pan and pickup swapped out. The pickup had a little surface rust on it so I cleaned it up with a Scotch Brite pad and then wiped it down with some motor oil. I'm glad to get this part done - I'm not a big fan of using this rotating engine stand, makes me a bit nervous. I'll be glad when it's back on the ground in the engine cradle.

    Did you check to make sure the dip stick aligned with the cutout in the oil pan? I too have the Moroso pan and had to modify (all a hole) to allow the dip stick to go all the way in without hitting the pan and deflecting. If it hits and deflects, it will appear that you are low on oil. Over filling could occur if not modified.
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    I am a little unsure about the area Ducky is pointing at on that oil pan. Maybe they changed the design some. Completely different from where Paul determined his dipstick was hitting. Maybe he can chime in with his photo as well.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
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    This issue was discovered several years ago when Moroso released these pans for the Coyote. They added a slot for the dipstick to go through. When I received the pan for my Anniversary build, I checked. It had the slot but my dipstick will still hanging up. I did a quick check, reviewed forum posts, and drilled a hole. Still found it hung up. What I found on mine was it was hitting the cross piece underneath the slot they cut. Trimmed that and problem was solved. The area I found the interference is indicated in this photo. Along with the hole I drilled which didn't fix the problem. Your experience may vary, but this is what I found. I'll be going through this again on my Coupe build. I have the new Moroso pan, but not the engine yet.

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  40. #40
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ducky2009 View Post
    Did you check to make sure the dip stick aligned with the cutout in the oil pan? I too have the Moroso pan and had to modify (all a hole) to allow the dip stick to go all the way in without hitting the pan and deflecting. If it hits and deflects, it will appear that you are low on oil. Over filling could occur if not modified.
    If you look at the photo in my post #30 you can see the material I trimmed in my pan. In testing, it feels and sounds like it is making very minimal contact. I think it is just touching the vertical wall of the area I milled out and then deflecting slightly down it. I don't think it is going to be an issue like it would be if it were deflecting 90 degrees.

    Last edited by shark92651; 04-07-2018 at 04:55 PM.

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