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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327

  1. #81
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    You can see that my sway bar still isn't mounted to the spindles. I took the rod ends to a local machine shop to have them cut down to size and still waiting to get them back. I didn't want to tackle that with my Dremel or sawzall.
    A little late, but sometimes putting the power tools aside can be easier. I've cut two sets of them with a hack saw in a bench vise. Takes some elbow grease, but really not that bad. Touched them up on the disk sander when done.

    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    I went to Auto Zone and used their "Loan A Tool" program to get the 36mm socket to tighten the axle nut. The specs in the instructions said to torque it to 98 ft lbs "+45 degree". I could not get it to budge past 98 ft lbs even when using a breaker bar against the wheel studs to stop the hub from turning, so there is no "+45 degrees" for me. Did anyone else have an issue with this? Is it anything to worry about?
    Yes, worry about it. You need to get them tightened as spec'd. I tried something similar to what you're describing without much luck either. Waited until the wheels/tires were on and sitting on the ground, the drive train installed and in gear, and the e-brake set. With all that, it was rock solid and I could put my weight on the bar to tighten. Achieved the 45 degrees without too much trouble.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  2. #82
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Yes, worry about it. You need to get them tightened as spec'd. I tried something similar to what you're describing without much luck either. Waited until the wheels/tires were on and sitting on the ground, the drive train installed and in gear, and the e-brake set. With all that, it was rock solid and I could put my weight on the bar to tighten. Achieved the 45 degrees without too much trouble.
    That makes a lot of sense. I'll revisit the +45 when it's on the ground.

  3. #83
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Trunk fabrication nearly complete



    I've got most of my pre-weld fabrication complete. This is how I plan to reinforce the trunk area after cutting the diagonals. When I cut the diagonals I intentionally left the tube "stubs" so they will extend under and support the lip of the trunk box on two sides, and the new support tube on the right will provide quite a bit of rigidity as well. I also plan to run one more tube below the trunk box on the left but need to get the tank into place and check clearance and determine the best placement. You can also see the new tank strap bracket I fabricated out of 1" x 1/8" steel bar stock. Gotta get my welder friend out here soon, hopefully next weekend to get all these welded up.



    I have the trunk aluminum nearly complete - just need to fab a cover to go over the old tank strap locations. I ended up using rivnuts to make the access panels removable.

  4. #84
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Front end work

    I'm still waiting to get my F-Panels back from powder coat but I decided to go ahead and start on the front end. I just snugged up the bolts that mount the upper control arms to the frame and I figure I can just remove those bolts and pivot the entire assembly away from the frame in order to rivet in my F-Panels when I get them back. Both of my upper control arms were installed incorrectly so I had to unscrew and swap them around. I guess it's too much to ask whoever assembles these to take an extra 2 seconds to make sure they do it correctly I guess I was lucky on my ball joints though, both screwed all the way in to the shoulder by hand. I loc-tited those and tightened then down with a 24" adjustable wrench I got at Harbor Freight this morning for a mere $22.50 with my 25% off coupon! That is one big hulking wrench. I figure I can use it to crush zombie skulls during the apocalypse.




    I posted photos of front and rear of both sides. Let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary. Still waiting on all four back-ordered shocks.

    DS Front



    DS Rear



    PS Front



    PS Rear



    As I was installed the second rotor I noticed a directional arrow on the rotor and it was pointing in the wrong direction! I quickly removed the calipers on the other side and swapped the rotors before the loc-tite had time to set. I then wondered if I got the rears on wrong as well. I figured I had a 50% chance of getting it right.

    Well crap! I guess I'm removing loc-tited bolts on both sides on the rear and swapping them as well. Awesome...


  5. #85
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Oh don't worry about backing out those bolts with red loctite. I specialize in that.
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  6. #86
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    Are you going to run ABS?

  7. #87


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    Looking good and you're making great progress

    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    ...Both of my upper control arms were installed incorrectly so I had to unscrew and swap them around. I guess it's too much to ask whoever assembles these to take an extra 2 seconds to make sure they do it correctly ...
    Just FYI, the arms are an off the shelf item from SPC and are not FFR specific; what is deemed "incorrect" for our use is correct for other applications. It is up to the end user to assure that they are in the correct configuration for the vehicle.

    Jeff

  8. #88
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    I posted photos of front and rear of both sides. Let me know if anything looks out of the ordinary.
    Nice progress. Good catch on the directional rotors. Better now than later. One somewhat minor suggestion. Those bolts on the UCA ball joint mounting plates -- flip them over. Always good build practice to have the nut on the bottom and the bolt on the top. If in the unforeseen chance the nut loosens and falls off, the bolt has a chance to stay in place.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  9. #89
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Are you going to run ABS?
    No, not doing ABS.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Looking good and you're making great progress
    Just FYI, the arms are an off the shelf item from SPC and are not FFR specific; what is deemed "incorrect" for our use is correct for other applications. It is up to the end user to assure that they are in the correct configuration for the vehicle.

    Jeff
    OK did not know that. I did take note that on the roadster the spindle marked DSS goes on the PSS and PSS goes on the DSS prior to assembly

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Nice progress. Good catch on the directional rotors. Better now than later. One somewhat minor suggestion. Those bolts on the UCA ball joint mounting plates -- flip them over. Always good build practice to have the nut on the bottom and the bolt on the top. If in the unforeseen chance the nut loosens and falls off, the bolt has a chance to stay in place.
    That's good advice, I will flip them over, thanks.
    Last edited by shark92651; 05-29-2018 at 06:49 AM.

  10. #90
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    Since your not doing ABS have you thought about pulling the tone rings off?

  11. #91
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Since your not doing ABS have you thought about pulling the tone rings off?
    I didn't even think about that. Now that it's all assembled not sure I want to take it apart again

  12. #92
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    Another mistake I made was not paying attention to the steering arms close enough. I made sure they were pointed in the right direction but didn't notice the direction of the tapered hole. 50-50 shot and I missed, everything back off and on again.

  13. #93
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    KRC Power Steering

    I started work on the steering last night. When you buy power steering from FFR they are supplying the KRC system now, which is nice. Other than the steering rack, it's all just loosely mocked up right now. My tie rods and upper steering shaft are on back-order so can only get so far right now







    Unlike the photos in the instructions, this input shaft does not have any flats on it. Do I just tighten the set screw down onto the lower splines or is it supposed to land in the area between the two bands of splines?



    This is where the shaft enters the footbox. Does this look correct? I know this has to come back out to install my front footbox aluminum, which I should be getting back from powder coat tomorrow morning.

  14. #94
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    On the steering rack, in the valley between the splines. The flats are usually just on the steering shaft.
    Higgy

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    2 things from your recent posts. When I tried to tighten my steering shaft down onto the splines the allen screw kept pushing the shaft up off the lower set of splines. I ended up grinding a small flat onto the lower set of splines for the set screw to bite into so the shaft would be fully seated. This lowered the whole shaft into the firewall bearing a little. I am currently working on the KRC kit that FFR is selling. They did not supply the fittings that thread into the rack and convert to AN for the braided lines that they sent. I had to source them from a local supplier.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  16. #96
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    2 things from your recent posts. When I tried to tighten my steering shaft down onto the splines the allen screw kept pushing the shaft up off the lower set of splines. I ended up grinding a small flat onto the lower set of splines for the set screw to bite into so the shaft would be fully seated. This lowered the whole shaft into the firewall bearing a little. I am currently working on the KRC kit that FFR is selling. They did not supply the fittings that thread into the rack and convert to AN for the braided lines that they sent. I had to source them from a local supplier.
    I noticed the same thing. I think grinding a flat is a good idea. I'd feel a lot better with both sets of splines engaging, even if only a little for the lower splines.

  17. #97
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Finished up the trunk fabrication

    I found an awesome welder through Facebook of all places, and he lives only a mile from my house! Shout out to Matt from Warrior Welding. He came over on Friday and welded up all my new tank supports and my new PS tank strap.



    Here are the new trunk supports after welding.



    And this is what they look like after painting. I used a gloss black appliance rattle can and it matches fairly well.



    Because I lowered the position of the PS tank strap bracket, I had to modify the PS tank strap. I just drilled out the spot welds on the back end, flattened it out with a hammer on my vice, and then bent it around a bolt in the vice at the appropriate position. I just kept comparing it to that end of the DS strap until it looked right. I cut off the excess on the end and had my friend weld the ends back together. Touched it up with the rattle can.



    Here is a close up of the PS tank strap area after installation of the tank.



    Speaking of the fuel tank, I went ahead and installed that. I have an M-Pro racing hanger which was kind of a pain to install. I had to cut a small notch in the opening to allow clearance of the longer return line, but I got it in there and managed to not get any trash in the tank.





    And finally here is my completely fabbed trunk with drop box and block-off plate I made to cover the old tank strap cut outs.

  18. #98

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    I have to correct my earlier response. FFR does supply the rack to AN adaptors with their complete KRC kit so it is a true complete setup. I just didn’t have them.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  19. #99
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Carbon vapor filter

    I was at Home Depot this afternoon picking up some parts to add some drip lines to my irrigation system when something caught my eye and I got an idea. I decided I can make a decent gasoline vapor filter for the vent line using a replacement popup body. They even have a 1/2" barb fitting that is perfect for attaching to the vent line. Total investment was under $3 (excluding the filter carbon).



    Here are the parts I picked up. There is no popup component since it's just a replacement body, but there is a spring and an inner tube that pulls right out.



    I decided to cut out this inner sleeve using a 1 1/4" hole saw to give a bit more volume inside for carbon and to make it easy to place a piece of Scotch Brite pad in the cover.



    Here is the finished product after I cut and placed a piece of Scotch Brite pad into each end and filled it with carbon pellets. It has a 1 1/4" diameter and is about 5 1/4" long. It probably doesn't have as much volume as some of the other solutions I've seen, but it's very cheap and it has a nice screw on cap and fitting so will be easy to change out the carbon if I ever need to. Now I just need to find a good location and clever way to mount it.

  20. #100
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    E Brake mod

    Last night I completed the E-Brake mod to route the cables over the 4" tube rather than under. I pretty much just followed in the footsteps of EdwardB with this one, using the exact same parts and cutting of the Lokar clevis as he described. It works well. Props to EdwardB for this one



    Last edited by shark92651; 06-05-2018 at 09:11 AM.

  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodneyarcher1 View Post
    Another mistake I made was not paying attention to the steering arms close enough. I made sure they were pointed in the right direction but didn't notice the direction of the tapered hole. 50-50 shot and I missed, everything back off and on again.
    I just checked mine....you had me thinking. If I'm not mistaken though it barely goes on the opposite way. The steering arm does not slip over the tie-rod end when inverted. I was nervous for a second!!! Lol.....
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  22. #102
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Steering shaft trouble

    I started to mock up the steering shaft and I had a heck of a time getting it on. At first I tried to put the bearing that goes on the front of the footbox on the inside, but because of the bracket for the pedal box, it won't sit flush.



    When I tried to put it on the outside of the pedelbox, there was so little clearance between that U-Joint and the bearing that I could barely get the other end of the shaft onto the steering rack. I mean the only way I could get it on was to rotate the shaft a bit so that the flats were at 12 and 6 o'clock and then I could barely get it to go in. I fear that once I have the aluminum panel on the front of the footbox that I won't be able to get it in at all. I mean it is already so tight that it seems like 1mm would make a world of difference. Anybody else run into this or am I doing something wrong? My first thought was to mark where the interference is on the pedal box bracket and cut that bit of metal off of it so I could put the bearing on the inside, but that seems a bit extreme.


  23. #103
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    You can grind/sand down the top of the bracket flat so it fits. I put mine on the inside and flattened out the top so it fits flush.

    Untitled.jpg
    Last edited by stevant; 06-08-2018 at 10:12 AM.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  24. #104
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    You can grind/sand down the top of the bracket flat so it fits. I put mine on the inside and flattened out the top so it fits flush.

    Untitled.jpg
    Thanks. I think that is probably the best fix. It will be a lot easier to cut the top of the thinner bearing bracket rather than pull out and cut the pedal box bracket.

  25. #105
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    Yep........
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  26. #106
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    Common problem. I've put it on the inside on the last two builds and heard from lots of others who did the same. Also the only way it would fit. Grind or sand a flat along the edge of the bearing shell so it clears and you're good to go.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  27. #107
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    Yep. x3. Grind it and slap it in.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  28. #108
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    This week's progress

    I worked on a few different tasks this weekend.

    I put together my flexible fuel lines and got my regulator installed. I am going with the LS style fixed regulator and I installed it close to the fuel tank. I am using stainless braided PTFE hose and mostly Quick Detach fittings from Racetronix. The price was pretty good on these fittings and I like the idea of a single fitting instead of QD to AN fittings. The fittings to the M-Pro hanger are AN, also from Racetronix. I am going to run a single Nicopp 3/8" line to the front for the engine.





    I also installed the new pulley and power steering pump w/reservoir on the front of the Coyote.



    Next up is the radiator. I installed the Breeze fan shroud and mounted the radiator with the Breeze lower radiator mount. I'm going to pull it back out and send the fan shroud out to be powder-coated with my next batch of panels.





    I installed my flexible brake lines front and rear. I guess my next major project is going to be to run the hard lines for brakes and fuel. Another job I have never done before, but I'm looking forward to it.



    Last edited by shark92651; 06-11-2018 at 12:41 PM.

  29. #109
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    Nice progress Shark!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  30. #110
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    More welding work completed

    The Tilton Hydraulic Release Bearing requires a clutch stop to prevent excessive movement beyond what is required to release the pressure plate from the friction plate, only 1/4" of additional movement of clutch pedal once released. I came up with a design for a clutch stop and will mount it on the underside of the top pedal box bracket in the general area where the FFR supplied clutch stop is located. It did require an additional hole drilled into the bracket so glad I did this now before I plumb everything, because I had to pull it all out in order to get to the area I need to drill. Here is what I came up with. I angled the bracket so that the clutch stop engages with the pedal at a roughly 90 degree angle. The adjustable bolt with plastic cap actually came off a hinge door stop from Home Depot. I had my friend come over to do some more welding for me at lunch yesterday to put the two pieces together.





    I also had him weld up my dual stainless roll bars from Breeze. I think they turned out pretty nice. I hope the discoloration around the weld will polish out when I have the bars polished, but I really don't have any experience with this so don't know. I also drilled holes in the short stub tubes for the hoops and had my friend plug-weld those to the MK4 chassis stub tubes so I have one less set of holes to drill and through-bolt. The DS rear leg snugged up really well with the hoop but the PS was a bit off, by about 1/2". I had to make one cut in the stub tube to bend it a bit to get perfect alignment. I will have my friend weld up that cut when I am closer to mounting the body. I greased up the stub tubes and inside of the roll bars pretty well before I tapped them into place and he welded them right on the vehicle so there should have been very little movement. Hopefully they will pull off fairly easily.








  31. #111
    DavidW's Avatar
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    With the angle of the roll bar if you weld them in place can they be removed, I thought they would be welded after the body was on.

  32. #112
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    The stub tubes for the front hoop are welded in place, which basically takes the place of one set of through-bolts. The roll bars are removable because the rear stub tube can be pushed up inside the rear leg, then you are basically just pulling the hoop off the stub tubes. For final installation, the outer hoop and rear leg are through-bolted to the stub tubes.

  33. #113
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Nice welds!! Should polish up no problem!!
    Higgy

  34. #114
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    I powder coated my clutch stop and installed it. It works pretty well. Currently I have it adjusted to stop the clutch just before contact with the frame tube.



    With a little bit of modification I was able to get the Coyote bottom travel clutch switch working with my hydraulic clutch setup using the brackets that FFR supplies. I took the switch contact bracket for the cable clutch and trimmed it down a bit and then I drilled and tapped the clevis on the end of the clutch pedal so that I could attach the bracket to the clevis with a single 6-32 bolt. I was able to attach it with the existing pin and snap rings.





    Last edited by shark92651; 06-15-2018 at 07:20 AM.

  35. #115
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Clever solution to the switch for the hydraulic clutch. Good work.

    I also like the new power steering pump with integral reservoir from FFR. Nice to see how FFR keeps upgrading features.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  36. #116
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    I am SO tired of drilling holes

    I spent most of this weekend marking, drilling, and placing aluminum panels. This is a lot of work but I have most of it behind me at this point. I am going to pull these off and send most of them to the powder coater this week. While not very exciting, here are some pics:









    Last edited by shark92651; 06-18-2018 at 10:22 PM.

  37. #117
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Great progress! Hope you have an air riveter!!
    Higgy

  38. #118
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HiggyMK4#???? View Post
    Great progress! Hope you have an air riveter!!
    Higgy
    I do. That tool is awesome.

  39. #119
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    What is the best way to seal up gaps in the panels, like the area around the round tube in this photo?


  40. #120
    Senior Member HiggyMK4#????'s Avatar
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    Most guys cut a patch to cover the hole and get a close fit around the tubing. Finish it off with seam sealer. I did see a pic of someone's, I'm sure it'll get posted here.

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