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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Graduated!!

  1. #161
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Breeze roll bars drilled and through-bolted

    I riveted most of my remaining aluminum in place as I hope to spray Lizard Skin soon. Before I put the rear cockpit wall in place I figured I better get my Breeze roll bars drilled first or else it would be nearly impossible to get in position to drill the holes. I read that a lot of people struggled with this but I didn't find it too difficult so will detail what I did here.

    From looking at how I could drill from two sides, and to gain access to the roll bars once the body is in place, I decided to drill the holes in a mostly front to rear orientation. I bought three drill sizes: 1/8", 1/4", and 7/16". I bought the Milwaukee cobalt drill bits at Home Depot. I bought 2 of the 1/8" bits and one each of the others.



    I'm lucky to have access to a large drill press with a cross vise and it definitely made the job easier. I center punched the tubes at each leg and drilled with the 1/8" bit first, then the 1/4", and then the 7/16". I would swap out the bits and completely drill each leg to completion before moving to the next leg. I ran the press at 550 RPM and used lots of Tap Magic oil. It probably took me just over an hour to get them all drilled.







    I then honed out the inside of each leg a bit with a drum sander bit on my cordless drill to remove any burrs and greased up the inside of the legs and the stub tubes. The roll bars pressed back onto the stub tubes fairly easily. I aligned them to the top of the paint marks I had made earlier which are 3" above the floor of the trunk. I then used my center punch to mark the center of each hole on both sides.



    Using the same bits as before I drilled 1/8" pilot holes on each side. I did NOT try to drill through to the other side as I figured it would be next to impossible to get the holes to line up that way. I then moved up to the 1/4" bit and finally the 7/16" bit. My cordless drill was struggling a bit on the 7/16" bit, probably because it was getting pretty dull a this point. I switched to my corded 1/2" drill to finish these up. Here is the final product, all six legs and rear stub tube drilled and with through bolts installed. I am glad I decided to plug weld the front stub tubes in place as that saved me from having to mess with an additional 4 holes. I have read that some think it is a bad idea to weld them in place as they needed the additional movement in order to fit the bars, but I don't think that is the case, at least I didn't have any problems at all with the way I did it here. All told it was probably about a total of 2.5 hrs to complete this job.


  2. #162
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Panels in place

    I've riveted in the remaining back cockpit wall and hope to spray Lizard Skin next weekend.




  3. #163
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Test dash

    Before I start cutting holes in my blank dash, I decided it would be a good idea to make a "test dash" where I could figure out the best hole sizes for each gauge and switch and practice covering with the foam and leather I plan to put on the dash. I cut a piece of aluminum and bent a tab on the bottom and curved the top so I could practice covering a curve with leather as well. I did learn that the 2 1/8" hole saw is a better choice than the 2" for the small gauges. I thought 2 1/8" was too loose but after pulling the leather back through the opening it is about perfect, whereas the 2" was just way too tight. For the large gauges I bought a 3 7/8" hole saw, which is a little too tight. I don't want to spend money on a 4" hole saw so I am just going to open up both those holes to 4" with a drum sander instead. Overall I am pretty pleased with how it turned out. I used a couple of SS washers as bezels for the speedo menu button and the toggle switches.

    I used the Landau Top & Trim adhesive and applied it with cheap paint brushes from Home Depot. This stuff works very well. I found that once I pulled the leather over the edge or through an opening and pressed it into place it would not move. I didn't even feel the need to put any weights or anything on it, just ran my roller over it a couple times and it isn't moving at all.




  4. #164
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    Its really coming along!! Rollbars and the test dash look great!
    Higgy
    New MK4 kit picked up 4/10/23!!!
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    MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
    351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars

  5. #165
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    Nice job Shark........ I have not really looked into the gauges after install into the dash but will once time to hook up. What’s the button for attached to the RPM gauge?
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  6. #166
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Nice job Shark........ I have not really looked into the gauges after install into the dash but will once time to hook up. What’s the button for attached to the RPM gauge?
    I just grabbed a 4" gauge for the test dash. The button will actually be used for the GPS speedo to cycle though all the menu options on it. You do need to use the button to program the tach, however, but no need to have that one permanently mounted in the dash. I am going to install a couple remote stereo jacks in the support panel underneath, however, and hook them up to the tach and the fuel gauge in case I ever need to reprogram those - will be a lot easier than having to get to them behind the dash.

  7. #167
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    I think you also need the button for the clock?
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  8. #168
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    I think you also need the button for the clock?
    Yes but I traded in my clock for an oil temp gauge

  9. #169
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Dash fabrication complete

    I got all the holes in the dash cut out for gauges, switches, and the glovebox. It was a bit tough cutting with the 3 7/8" hole saw even on my drill press - it kept binding up. I got them all cut out though and then cleaned them up with my deburring tool. I also fabricated a center dash support and new end supports. The center support has USB/12V power connections and "remote" stereo jacks that I will use to be able to program the tach and fuel gauge without having to reach up under the dash to plug in the programming button. The end supports have white "live well" lights that will be used for footbox lights. Hopefully I can get the pad and leather installed next weekend.





    [/url]

  10. #170
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Dash is finished

    This is a milestone that I am happy to have completed. I wanted a padded leather dash with competition layout and got most of my inspiration from edwardb's build. I also wanted a hidden attachment so went with a very similar approach using some aluminum angle, countersunk machine screws, filled with JB Weld and sanded smooth. I used the same method to mount the glove box and it all turned out super smooth with no printing through the leather.



    [/url]

    Covered with pad

    [/url]

    Covered with leather and pie cuts made



    Final product





    Last edited by shark92651; 08-25-2018 at 09:04 PM.

  11. #171
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    Great job!!
    Higgy
    New MK4 kit picked up 4/10/23!!!
    SOLD
    MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
    351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars

  12. #172
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Trunk inner panels

    I fabricated a couple of inner panels for the upper trunk this morning. I just took some measurements and then transferred to some poster board and then to aluminum. Took a bit of checking and trimming but finally got them to fit the way I like. It seems so much more finished with these, I'm surprised FFR doesn't include them in the kit.




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  14. #173
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    So this looks really good. In fact, at first I was trying to figure out what you did... I had to go back to the bunch of photos I took of my kit before I took all the panels off. So if I'm seeing it correctly, you now have a "double" wall on the side right? Because from my photos I have, it looks like there is a side panel there, but you have the support braces on the inside of the truck if you leave them as is... Am I understanding what you did?

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

  15. #174
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Yes... a double wall. I made the same panels for 9365 - and I agree, FFR should include them - they'll make the trunk trim-out so much easier and better looking.
    Chassis_04.jpg Chassis_05.jpg
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

  16. #175
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Ok, you guys convinced me, I need to do the same thing.
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  17. #176
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    ---and I agree, FFR should include them -
    The early cars did but when the trunk configuration and structure was redesigned to eliminate the dropped floor several months into Mk4 production they changed the outer trunk side aluminum and deleted the the inner panels.

    Jeff

  18. #177
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Lizard Skin Sound Control sprayed

    I spent several hours on Sunday masking and preparing for Lizard Skin. I scuffed all the panels in the cockpit and trunk with some 150 grit sandpaper and then masked everything off. This is a lot of work and I am still just over 1/2 done since I need to also mask again and spray the ceramic insulation, but at least that is cockpit only.

    Here you can see most of the masking in the cockpit



    I bought a few plastic drop cloths and taped them along the edges and tied some string loops in the corners so I could hook them onto my shelves and quickly bring them down to allow me to move around to spray and protect from different directions. I managed not to get it all over the garage, which is good.



    Here are the results after I pulled the masking. I should have let it set up for another hour before I started pulling the masking tape, but I didn't want the edges to pull up if it was to hard. As it is, I smudged it in a few places as it was still very wet. Oh well, I have to spray the heat product next and it's all going to be buried under carpet in the end anyway.





    Last edited by shark92651; 09-03-2018 at 08:25 PM.

  19. #178
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    That looks really good
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

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  21. #179
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Lizard Skin complete

    I re-masked the cockpit and sprayed the ceramic insulation yesterday. I'm glad to have this done and can pull wires through and bolts things in place for the last time.






    After pulling all the masking and pulling the harnesses back through.



    I also ran a wiring harness for the wiper motor, ran the engine senders harness, and attached a fitting for the stainless PTFE fuel line. I'll cut and put the fitting on the other end once I have the motor in place. Speaking of the motor, looks like I am very close to dropping that in place.


  22. #180
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    So now that you have the Lizard Skin in place, do you also plan to put any other coating/padding, etc down? Like you have in your foot box. Why did you not do the foot box BTW?

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

  23. #181
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    So now that you have the Lizard Skin in place, do you also plan to put any other coating/padding, etc down? Like you have in your foot box. Why did you not do the foot box BTW?
    Because my pedals and MC's and everything was already in place in the DS footbox, I just thought it would be easier to use the stick-on product there rather than trying to mask and spray around all that. The Lizard Skin is all I plan to use for sound/heat in the rest of the cockpit.

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  25. #182
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Pressure Bleeder

    After bleeding my brakes the old fashion way a while back, I still had some air in my rear circuit. The rear MC would move about 4x as much as my fronts. I bought an extra cap for my reservoir and collected the parts I needed at Home Depot to make a pressure bleeder. Here are the parts I used and the finished product.





    I set the compressor at 15psi and re-bled the rear brakes. Wow, what a difference. Now I have a nice hard pedal with equal movement in both the front and rear MC. I wish I had just done this from the beginning. Super easy and was done in 5 mins.


  26. #183
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Cut bottom flange off QuickTime bell housing

    As others had advised, I went ahead and cut off the bottom flange of my QuickTime bell housing and backer plate. I figure it would be a LOT easier to do it now while it is still out of the car. I removed the trans and hoisted the engine up and rested it on top of my Black and Decker WorkMate (with the hoist still handling most of the weight) and cut it off with the angle grinder. I cleaned it up with a flap disk and then touched it up with some of the leftover POR-15 that has been in the bottom of my fridge since May - it's still good!




  27. #184
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Looking really good! You're last two threads gave me more work to do. One, I'm definitely going to cut me some side panels. And two, I've got to get me another B&D Workmate. I have a really old one that is on its last legs, and man do those things come in handy!
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

  28. #185
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    I've had this WorkMate for several years and I have certainly gotten my money's worth.
    Last edited by shark92651; 09-16-2018 at 02:02 PM.

  29. #186
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    DS footbox top installed

    Nothing too exciting today but I got my DS footbox top panel in place, with removable access panel. I had to get my hydraulic reservoir out of the way to get in there so I made a little support out of a piece of aluminum so it's kind of just hanging out in space there. I guess I'll just leave it there until I get the motor installed.


  30. #187
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Nothing too exciting today but I got my DS footbox top panel in place, with removable access panel. I had to get my hydraulic reservoir out of the way to get in there so I made a little support out of a piece of aluminum so it's kind of just hanging out in space there. I guess I'll just leave it there until I get the motor installed.

    Looks great!! Question: Where you have your 3 hydraulic hoses coming out of the driver's side front foot box panel, where did you get your hoses as well as the triple grommet they are feeding through?
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
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  31. #188
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    The removable top access panel 3 top screws may conflict with the body. Those screws I used red loctite on at a depth to accept the panel which I slotted. You'll only have six screws to tighten then. Build is looking awesome by the way
    Last edited by RR20AC; 09-17-2018 at 01:25 AM.
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Jeff Miller. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017, 3000 mile inspection on 1/14/19.

  32. #189
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Looks great!! Question: Where you have your 3 hydraulic hoses coming out of the driver's side front foot box panel, where did you get your hoses as well as the triple grommet they are feeding through?
    Those are the hoses that came with the master cylinders. If you need to order some, it is EPDM rubber hose, same as used for air hose. You can get it in red or black at McMaster-Carr. The part# for red is 5405K2. I bought a cheap assortment of rubber grommets on eBay, and I just carefully spaced 3 of them out and drilled the panel for them.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/180-pc-Rubb...-/292371204638

    Quote Originally Posted by RR20AC View Post
    The removable top access panel 3 top screws may conflict with the body. Those screws I used red loctite on at a depth to accept the panel which I slotted. You'll only have six screws to tighten then. Build is looking awesome by the way
    I would not be surprised if there is a conflict. I purposely avoided the top-left corner for that reason, from looking at other builds. I suppose I could leave the cover off when I put the body on and then use whichever ones I have access to. Your idea to slot the top holes is a good one and would be an easy mod, thanks for the suggestion.
    Last edited by shark92651; 09-17-2018 at 09:39 AM.

  33. #190
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Those are the hoses that came with the master cylinders. If you need to order some, it is EPDM rubber hose, same as used for air hose. You can get it in red or black at McMaster-Carr. The part# for red is 5405K2. I bought a cheap assortment of rubber grommets on eBay, and I just carefully spaced 3 of them out and drilled the panel for them.
    Ah, I see it now...that's the round block off panel that you drilled the holes in. Thanks!
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

  34. #191

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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Yes but I traded in my clock for an oil temp gauge
    l

    Did you get the oil temp gauge from Seedhut or FF?
    Last edited by Sigurd; 09-17-2018 at 09:46 AM. Reason: Spelling

  35. #192
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigurd View Post
    l

    Did you get the oil temp gauge from Seedhut or FF?
    I contacted Speedhut and they hooked me up with a trade in. It comes with the sender as well so don't do like I did and order that separately.

    Update: I needed to revisit this recommendation. The sender that comes with the gauge will barely fit between the oil pan and the frame rail, but it doesn't leave enough room to plug in the harness. I ended up using their smaller "universal sender" as I can actually get a wire hooked onto it. The SKU is G-SNDR-14 for anyone that needs that info.
    Last edited by shark92651; 10-19-2018 at 01:41 PM.

  36. #193
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    PCV and CMCV plumbing

    I knocked out a few more tasks on the Coyote in preparation to dropping it in next week.

    I ordered the kit from JLT to run the DS PCV hose to the intake and got that installed.





    Thanks to help from forum members and a detailed thread that EdwardB started, I got my CMCV system properly plumbed. The CMCV system gets it's vacuum from a reservoir at the rear of the intake. On the 2017 Coyote, there is a single vacuum hose on the PS that is the vacuum source for that reservoir. This normally connects to the stock air intake with a 3/8" quick-detach shown here.



    A good vacuum source to connect this to already exists to the right and above the throttle body, but it is a 1/2" connection. I decided to just cut off the plastic hose with the quick-detach right at that plastic hose barb and just plumb it with 3/8" hose and a barbed 3/8" to 1/2" fitting. The JLT kit for the PCV included a short length of 3/8" hose, so I used that, and I bought a 1/2" short molded cooling hose with a 90 degree bend on Amazon to hook this all up.

    Eldon James C8-6BN Automotive Black Nylon Reduction Coupler, 1/2" Hose Barb to 3/8" Hose Barb
    Dayco 80393 Molded Coolant Hose



    Last edited by shark92651; 09-20-2018 at 10:26 AM.

  37. #194
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Tachometer wire

    I also got my tachometer wire ready to go. I tapped into a DS coil trigger wire to feed the Tachometer, as detailed in EdwardB's thread. I purchased a spade crimping kit on Amazon as I needed that for other wiring as well. I used a short wire lead and crimped a spade connector on each end, stripped a small amount of insulation off the trigger wire, and then crimped the spade connector onto that. I wrapped it all up and zip-tied it so that it is secure.






    I purchased this inexpensive Necygoo Crimping Tools kit on Amazon as I needed it to wire other things anyway, like the wiper motor. This is my first time using this type of crimper and it works very well.

    Last edited by shark92651; 09-20-2018 at 09:06 AM.

  38. #195
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Looking good. I’m excited for you. Can’t wait to see that Coyote in place.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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  40. #196
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Dash test-fit and issue with Russ Thompson turn signal

    Today I test-fitted my completed dash for the first time. For my hidden fasteners I used some aluminum angle on the back and put rivnuts on the bottom of the dash hoop in 4 places. Once the dash was covered in pad and leather, and the Russ Thompson trim ring put in place, of course it caused the dash to move a little on me so the holes in my brackets didn't quite line up anymore. I just opened them up a bit with a rat-tail file in the correct direction and was able to get the bolts screwed in easily enough. The last thing I want to do is have one of those bolts bind up and spin a rivnut!



    I then test-fitted the Russ Thompson turn signal unit and I think I have a problem. Russ had to modify his mounting system to get it to work with the latest changes to the MK4 frame and he mentioned that there could be an issue and that I may need a longer tube, which he can machine for me. Looks like I am going to have to bring this post to his attention and take him up on his offer. It was probably fine before I added the pad, leather, and trim ring but now it looks like I need about a 3/8" longer tube to get it to work properly. The set screw that secures the hub to the tube is barely making contact with the main tube.

    The whole hub kind of comes out at an angle from the dash, but I think that is normal for these cars.



    Here you can see that turn turned down end of the tube is about 1/4" from the dash aluminum.



    And here you can see the biggest issue that the set screw is not making good contact with the tube in it's current mounting location and length.

    Last edited by shark92651; 09-22-2018 at 11:35 AM.

  41. #197
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Question... If you bring the RT turn signal assembly out (back) any further, won't that interfere with back side (or forward facing) of the steering wheel hub? I had to grind off about 1/16 " from the tube in order to slide the turn signal forward, away from the steering wheel hub so that it would bind on the hub.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  42. #198
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boat737 View Post
    Question... If you bring the RT turn signal assembly out (back) any further, won't that interfere with back side (or forward facing) of the steering wheel hub? I had to grind off about 1/16 " from the tube in order to slide the turn signal forward, away from the steering wheel hub so that it would bind on the hub.
    If I follow what you are asking, I don't think that is an issue as the inner steering shaft can be pulled out to leave a small gap between the turn signal hub and the steering hub. Russ warns in his instructions that some people cause it to bind by pressing the upper steering shaft too far in, and then when tightening the nut that holds the wheel it pulls the steering wheel hub further in and causes them to bind. Is this what you are referring to, the RT hub rubbing against the FFR steering wheel hub? If not I apologize for the confusion.

    I am in contact with Russ, by the way, and he is working with me to find the best resolution to my issue. I will post updates when it is resolved. One thing he pointed out is that there is supposed to be a small curved plate on the end of the jam screw which helps spread the contact force to the tube. I did find that plate in my box and put that in place, but still don't feel good about the amount of contact I am getting.

  43. #199
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Ahhhh.... There ya go. Thanks.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

  44. #200
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Coyote installed, clearance is super tight

    I got the powertrain installed today with the help of a few friends. Clearance is super-tight on the drivers side, maybe 3/32" and I don't think it is enough. There is plenty on the PS. Someone on Facebook suggesting removing the 1/2" spacer from the PS motor mount, and lengthening the slots on the DS motor mount so that the motor will drop down and slide a bit over to the PS, while keeping the headers level. Is this the best solution? Any other ideas?



    Passenger Side clearance



    Drivers Side clearance




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