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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Graduated!!

  1. #121
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Looks good. The panels are coming up as one of my next steps.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  2. #122
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    First time on the ground

    Well my back-ordered shocks finally arrived and I got them assembled and installed, and attached my front sway bar. I wanted to get it on the ground so that I could tighten up the axle nuts and the drive shaft adapter, so I re-installed the e-brake. For some reason I had a heck of a time getting the e-brake re-installed. I ended up removing the cables from the calipers in order to get enough slack to reattach everything.



    One quick note that may be useful to someone: I had to cut the corners off of my front sway bar brackets in order to get them to seat flat - there was contact with a weld that was bending them.



    Rear Shocks



    Front Shocks



    On the ground

    The alignment is so bad right now. I know it's not really worth trying to align it at this point but once the motor/trans is in place I think I will try to do a rough alignment before the first go cart. I really would like to minimize damage to my new tires. I have the 18" Halibrands with BFGoodrich Rival S tires. Front: 245/40ZR18 Rear: 315/30ZR18



    Here is a shot looking down at the front-left tire with the steering almost all the way to the left. If I turn it a bit more the tire will rub the F-Panel. Also note the contact with the flex brake line. These Wilwood brake fittings are a 45 degree and right now they are angled towards the tire. Should I re-seat these and angle them more towards the hubs or vertically? Also I guess I can re-attach the flex lines and have them more bowed in towards the shocks. Any other suggestions? Also, how can I prevent contact with the F-Panels?

  3. #123
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Started electrical

    Hopefully I will get my panels back this weekend and I can run the hard lines, but in the meantime I can still find things to work on. I decided to make a support for the firewall as I have seen others do. I fabricated this with some of the aluminum that I cut out for my trunk box. I left plenty of room above and below to run wires, but also cut a hole in the middle. I know that I need better hole saws, especially before I cut holes in my dash. The hole saw I used left a burr all the way around the hole so I knocked it down with a flap disc. Should I just buy decent brand bi-metal hole saws for the sizes I need or is there a better suggestion?



    Brace installed



    I installed the Breeze battery box. I ordered some Steel Gray Pearl powder to match what my powder coater is using on my panels and I coated this box myself. It was tricky getting it into my small oven without smearing the powder, but I managed. It did not turn out nearly as good as some of the other pieces I did in black, maybe it's the powder or the size/shape of the part. Oh well, it is going to be pretty much hidden down there so who cares?



    I installed my Optima yellow top and soldered/attached my ground cable. Not much more I can do with this until I start to run the harness(es). I am not really looking forward to that part of the build



    With the battery installed I wanted to make something light up so I pulled out all the tail lights/turn signals and I went ahead and swapped out the bulbs for the LEDs that I purchased. It was a simple process to swap them out and they do appear to be a bit brighter than the incandescent bulbs. If anyone is interested I purchased the iBrightstar 1157 bulbs on Amazon in Brilliant Red and Amber Yellow.



    This is the LED headlight that I chose - it is a United Pacific 31391 in chrome. It has good reviews in an LED headlight comparison review that I read and I like that it has retro styling and won't make my car look like a cyborg .
    Last edited by shark92651; 06-25-2018 at 10:57 AM.

  4. #124
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Everything looks great on this end. I'm envious at where you are with your build! Might want to get a grommet for that support hole. How's the oven/powder coating thing working out? Are there enough small pieces to warrant the $100 spend?
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

  5. #125
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Everything looks great on this end. I'm envious at where you are with your build! Might want to get a grommet for that support hole. How's the oven/powder coating thing working out? Are there enough small pieces to warrant the $100 spend?
    I plan to put a grommet on the hole. I'm glad I bought the powder coat setup. It's nice being able to do a part myself at any time. So far I've coated the trunk hinges, reservoir bracket, all the e-brake parts, e-brake cable brackets for calipers, motor mount spacers, trans bracket, pedal box brackets, flex brake line brackets, battery box and braces, and my clutch stop. I still have to do the hood hinges. Im pretty sure I've got my investment back already.

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  7. #126
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    I plan to put a grommet on the hole. I'm glad I bought the powder coat setup. It's nice being able to do a part myself at any time. So far I've coated the trunk hinges, reservoir bracket, all the e-brake parts, e-brake cable brackets for calipers, motor mount spacers, trans bracket, pedal box brackets, flex brake line brackets, battery box and braces, and my clutch stop. I still have to do the hood hinges. Im pretty sure I've got my investment back already.
    Thanks for that list. Sounds worthwhile. I've got my eye on a $35 oven...
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
    Build Thread #1: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread
    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

  8. #127
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Door latch mods

    I'm kind of at the mercy of the powder coater at this point. They promised me my panels would be done by today but I'm not holding my breath. It may be next weekend before I can get some significant work done. In the meantime I found a few things to work on. I went ahead and did the door latch mods that everyone agrees are essential. I won't go into too much detail as this mod is already well documented, but I bought a couple 5/16" x 1" carriage bolts and cut them down to 3/4" and ground down the heads so they are flat. I knocked down the top lip of the insert with a flap disk so that my washer and nut will hold the lever, and I added lithium grease to all the moving parts. It's way smoother now. I also drilled/tapped the knobs for my 10-32 stainless Torx bolts and filed down the lever stop a bit to allow the striker to fully retract. One less thing to worry about.




  9. #128
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Coyote accelerator pedal

    I wasn't really that impressed with the FFR suggested way to graft the supplied pedal onto the Coyote accelerator pedal arm so I thought I could do better, although for a bit more work and expense. I figure if this doesn't work I can always buy the Lokar unit, but I'm pretty sure this is going to work pretty well. I heard that someone removed the pedal pad and just spun it upside down and re-inserted it into the existing hole, but I didn't think that would work too well. For one I feel like the pedal ends up too close to the inside footbox wall and I really didn't like the look of an upside down pedal. I had a thought that I could basically buy a piece of 3/16" x 2" aluminum bar and make a new backing plate that basically replaces the wide plastic piece at the bottom of the pedal. With that in place, I would have a lot of flexibility to bolt it to a cut down pedal arm by drilling and tapping the plate for bolts and pieces of aluminum angle that I can through-bolt onto the pedal arm once I find the optimal position. This is my plan and I think it is going to work fine, but I won't do the final fitment until I get my footbox floor and lower-inside wall in place. Here is what I did so far:



    I removed the pedal pad and traced the shape of the existing plastic backer and hole location onto a piece of paper, then transferred that to a piece of 3/16" x 2" aluminum bar.





    After a good bit of cutting and grinding, I had a backer that could slip down inside the bottom of the pedal pad. I cut down the plastic shaft and secured it with the original tapper screw after cutting it to length.





    At that point I mounted the accelerator to the bracket and held the pad up to where I felt it would be best and marked the pedal arm. I cut off the excess pieces of the pedal arm to where I can mount the pedal pad. It took removing/remounting the pedal and testing a few times before I got enough plastic cut out. I may have to cut a bit more when it comes time to permanently mount the pedal pad but it's pretty close right now.



    And this is about what I will end up with. It's just held in place with some duct tape right now, but I think it will work out just fine. Once I get it secured permanently I will take a few pics detailing how I mounted the pad to the pedal arm.
    Last edited by shark92651; 06-29-2018 at 10:50 AM.

  10. #129
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Nice work.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  11. #130
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Panels back from powder coat

    I got my panels back from the powder coater late Friday afternoon. I'm happy that they got them done as promised so I could get on with the build. This powder color is Steel Gray Pearlescent from Cardinal Paint. I got the PS footbox and floor installed along with the DS footbox floor, front, and inside bottom wall. I don't think I should install any more panels at this time as I want access to run my hard lines and wiring. What do you think, should I stop here for now or are there some others that I could safely rivet in place now without interfering with access for the rest of the build?






  12. #131
    Straversi's Avatar
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    I’d leave the panels loose or just cleco’d for as long as possible. Run your wiring harnesses, finish as much as you can before you make those permanent. Once everything is riveted you have to crawl under instead of reaching through. Looking good.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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  14. #132
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Finished Coyote pedal

    This is how I attached the coyote pedal after cutting it down. I drilled/tapped the aluminum backer plate and bolted a 10-32 1/2" bolt through what was left of the plastic flange on the bottom and then cut down two aluminum angle pieces and drilled/tapped the backer to hold those on either side of the pedal at the top. I then drilled through both angle pieces and the pedal arm and through-bolted with a 10-32 1-1/4" bolt and nylon lock nut. I then powder coated all the pieces and mounted into the footbox hopefully for the last time. I ended up with about 1-1/2" of clearance from the pedal to the inside footbox wall. I am pleased with how it turned out.








  15. #133
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Hood hinges

    I went ahead and powder coated all the hood hinge parts and also the quick jacks. I think I am mostly done powder coating small parts but I'm sure I'll find something else I forgot to do and have to drag it all out again. I assembled the hood hinges and installed loosely on the car so that I can check clearance as I mock up the rest of the engine compartment.



    Last edited by shark92651; 07-03-2018 at 11:19 AM.

  16. #134
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Fuel line installed

    This morning I ran my 3/8" Nicopp fuel line. It also came with a Stainless coil spring for extra protection. I attached the line with 1/2" rubber cushioned clamps along the spring and 3/8" on the line, secured with 3/16" rivets. This was my first time bending and flaring and I am happy with the results. I borrowed the Eastwood flaring tool from a friend and a line straighter from another and it made the job super easy, even for first time. The Nicopp is flexible enough that I could do final bending and by hand at the ends. I hope to get the brake lines done by this weekend.









    Last edited by shark92651; 07-04-2018 at 02:13 PM.

  17. #135
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Charcoal filter mounting

    I mounted my rainbird popup sprinkler head charcoal filter to the DS above the rear shock. I used a 1 1/4" conduit clamp that I went ahead and powder coated black with my last batch of parts that I coated. I attached the conduit clamp and the cushioned clamp on the hose with Rivnuts that are in the 3/4" tube behind the aluminum piece. I secured the line under the trunk with a couple more 3/4" clamps secured with 3/16" rivets. Hopefully by running the line all the way to the DS and up high it will prevent any fuel from sloshing out.




  18. #136
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Great job. The build is so much fun.

    One comment...I was looking at the picture of the hood hinge power coating. I dd the same. If you are planning on driving the car and you might get caught in wet weather, consider changing the socket head bolts for stainless steel. The hardware from FFR is NOT corrosion resistant and will start to rust and look unsightly within your first driving season.

  19. #137
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    Hey Shark.....I noticed on your fuel lines you flared your lines to adapt to your AN fittings. I went with the compression fitting instead for the gas lines at that point. Anyone see a downside to that?

    IMG_3191.JPG
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  20. #138
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Howard View Post
    Great job. The build is so much fun.

    One comment...I was looking at the picture of the hood hinge power coating. I dd the same. If you are planning on driving the car and you might get caught in wet weather, consider changing the socket head bolts for stainless steel. The hardware from FFR is NOT corrosion resistant and will start to rust and look unsightly within your first driving season.
    Good to know, thanks for the advice

    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Hey Shark.....I noticed on your fuel lines you flared your lines to adapt to your AN fittings. I went with the compression fitting instead for the gas lines at that point. Anyone see a downside to that?

    IMG_3191.JPG
    I don't have any experience personally, hopefully someone else will chime in. I am using an inverted flare to AN union on each end of the hard line connected to flex lines with AN-6 on one end and Quick Connect on the other.
    Last edited by shark92651; 07-05-2018 at 07:37 AM.

  21. #139
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    Hey Shark.......I'm not familiar with the Coyote setup but you don't need a fuel return line in your situation? What kind of fuel pump are you running?

    Do you still have to run that line?
    Last edited by stevant; 07-05-2018 at 08:04 AM.
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  22. #140
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevant View Post
    Hey Shark.......I'm not familiar with the Coyote setup but you don't need a fuel return line in your situation? What kind of fuel pump are you running?

    Do you still have to run that line?
    It is a return system, but I am running the LS style fixed fuel regulator, you can see it in the photo below. You can mount it near the tank so that it has a very short return line. The Coyote wants 55 psi and this regulator is fixed at 58 psi. From everything I have read it works just fine, is inexpensive, and also contains a 5 micron fuel filter so it makes for a simple install. I picked this one up at Summit for $38.00. I am running a 255 lph Walbro fuel pump in the M-Pro racing hanger with 3/8" lines. I hope it all works out fine

    Last edited by shark92651; 07-05-2018 at 08:55 AM.

  23. #141
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    Learn something new every day!!! Nice..........

    So the fuel will loop within that short run and the regulator will feed the psi needed, smart!!
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  24. #142
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Triple reservoir complete

    I got my triple reservoir and hoses mounted in their final location. I wanted to run the three hoses through rubber grommets in the block-off plate for the clutch cable hole in the front of the pedal box. I found that the hole was not quite big enough so I needed to open it up. This was not the best time to be cutting a hole since I had already mounted my front pedal box aluminum. I ended up using a scrap piece of aluminum and cleco'ed it behind the opening to provide material for the pilot hole of the 2" hole saw. It was a bit hairy but I managed to get the hole cut out and looking fairly neat.

    You can see the scrap aluminum for the pilot that I cleco'ed behind the hole above the pedal box bracket. You can see some scratches where I just held up the hole saw and attempted to cut without the pilot hole material - yeah, that was not going to work.




    Here is the rough hole before I cleaned it up, filed it smooth, and painted the edge with some rattle can black.



    Here is the finished product with the block-off plate, grommets, and hoses in place.


  25. #143
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Brake lines complete

    I spent probably 10 hrs total running my brake lines. I have to say this is probably my least favorite part of the build so far. I had to redo about 3 lines in the process but overall I am pleased with how it turned out. Luckily I was using Nicopp lines and borrowed an Eastwood flaring tool from a buddy or else it would have been a lot harder. I've got nothing but respect for you guys that can do this in stainless! I decided to just stick with the provided insulated clips and rivets to secure the lines - I just didn't see much ROI for buying anything fancier or tapping the holes for bolts. I did end up having to buy some slightly larger cushioned clamps to go over the stainless spring armor that runs over the tubing along the bottom of the 4" rails.

    For my front brake routing I decided to come over and down along the 3/4" tube that comes out the front of the pedal box.



    Here is the line coming up and over and running down the top of the 3/4" tube to the LF brake. You can see I put a rubber grommet on the line before I flared it. I intend to notch the top of the block-off plate that covers the slot there and slide the grommet in.



    Here is the Tee fitting at the LF brake.



    Down the X-brace as others have done.



    And the connection to the RF brake.


  26. #144
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Rear brakes

    For the rear brakes I came over and down behind the bracket for the accelerator pedal.



    I used a single union on the run to the rear, up behind the accelerator bracket. I decided on this location so that I could run the stainless coil spring the full length along the 4" rail. I racked my brain trying to figure out how to do this in a single run. I punted - I was ready for this job to be over. Again, nothing but respect for those of you that do this in a single run.



    Coming out the bottom of the footbox. You can see I used another rubber grommet to fill the 7/16" hole I had to drill to fit the tube nut.



    Running along the 4" rail. I had to buy some 5/16" cushioned clamps to fit over the stainless spring armor. I'm not sure if the stainless spring is necessary, but it came with the Nicopp line so I was going to use it. More protection for the lines running along the bottom of the rail is a good thing, IMO.



    Coming up the 2x3 tube.



    The rear Tee near the LR brake



    And finally the connection to the RR brake.



    I'm glad that is done. I'm going to fill and bleed the system this afternoon and check for leaks.
    Last edited by shark92651; 07-08-2018 at 12:26 PM.

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  28. #145
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    Thank you for the detailed deacription and pictures of your brake lines. Even some of the most detailed posts tend to mention replicating something someone had done, but seem light on pictures and details, particuarly in the footbox.

  29. #146
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Very quickly, another shout out regarding swopping hardware for stainless steel. The black finish socket cap screws holding the pedal box on the front of the driver foot box will be rusted within a season if you get caught in weather. Stainless steel replacements are dirt cheap at a fastener supplier. Its easy to change them out now while the body is off and the footbox still open.

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  31. #147
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    I got the brakes filled and bled yesterday afternoon. I had my son come over and do the "pump and hold" while I went around working the bleeders with some 1/4" vinyl tubing and a jar. Being my first time it took about an hour before we got them all bled and used about 1 1/2" bottles of brake fluid. The fronts bled pretty easily but couldn't get the rear brake to operate properly until I realized I need to bleed from both the inside and outside bleeders on the rear. Only had one small leak at the rear tee union but just tightened it up a bit more and that was it.

  32. #148
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    I'll give you a second "thank you" for your brake line pics. I'll probably do something similar with mine. They look good!
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  33. #149
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Coyote accelerator RHS support

    Just a quick update on a mod I did on the Coyote accelerator last time I put it back in. I didn't like the fact that it was only attached to the bracket on the LHS as it tended to kick it out away from the bracket on the RHS and allow some movement. Probably not a big deal but it bothered me so I made an attachment for the RHS. I cut down a piece of aluminum and pressed it in between the ribs on the back. I then drilled a hole through it and tapped it for 10-32 screws. I also drilled and tapped the pedal bracket. I had to drill a clearance hole through the bracket that is welded to the frame at that location as well so that the screw can pass through. I then just cut and drilled a small piece of angle and bolted it down. Now it's rock-solid on the RHS as well.

    Last edited by shark92651; 07-10-2018 at 04:10 PM.

  34. #150
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Coyote harness and power started

    I've started laying out and attaching the Coyote harness and various bits for the power wiring. This is an area of the build I have been intimidated about since I first started thinking about the build. Hopefully my confidence will grow and it will all make sense by the time I turn that key for the first time. Shout out to Paul for answering my questions, it is greatly appreciated. You will notice the similarity to Paul's power wiring. He did a great job and I'm following his layout closely. I hope to be able to avoid any issues and be prepared so that I can drop the engine/trans in a single time only.

    Here you can see I mounted the Coyote PDB on the DS above the trans tunnel, on the large tube. I used 5/16-18 rivnuts, nuts, bolts, and lock washers. I cut a 2" hole in the firewall with the hole about 1/2" above the tube and close to the firewall support I added.



    This is a shot from below looking up towards the PDB. You can see I installed the battery disconnect switch (from FFR) and the 250A fuse block that comes with the Coyote control packs. to mount the fuse block under the PDB I used a 10-32 rivnut in the 3/4" tube on the right and then used 1 1/4" of nylon spacers and a 2" 10-32 bolt from HD to mount the left through the aluminum panel.



    Here is the PCM bracket and Coyote PCM mounted above the PS footbox.



    I also went ahead and mounted the fuse box bracket for the Ron Francis wiring harness. I made a bracket to secure that loose corner as others have done.



    Now I'm just waiting on some wire, lugs, heat shrink and other bits to arrive so that I can start hooking all of this up. I'm also reviewing the documentation again trying to wrap my head around all of it.

  35. #151
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Looking good. Think about pulling your gauge wires through the firewall now as well.
    -Steve
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  36. #152
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Straversi View Post
    Looking good. Think about pulling your gauge wires through the firewall now as well.
    -Steve
    Are you talking about the wires for the senders like oil pressure, water temp?

  37. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Are you talking about the wires for the senders like oil pressure, water temp?
    yes, and Tach.
    Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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    I want all my holes drilled before I send my firewall to the powder coating place. Can I get a measurement on where you drilled the hole for the wiring?

  39. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dthquazi View Post
    I want all my holes drilled before I send my firewall to the powder coating place. Can I get a measurement on where you drilled the hole for the wiring?
    Are you talking about the hole in firewall for Coyote harness? I can get that to you when I get home. It's really not that big of issue to drill this after powdercoat because the edges are covered by the grommet, however.

    Update: I placed the hole in my firewall 18-3/4" from the PS edge of firewall and 3-3/4" up from bottom of firewall. This clears the 2x2 tube by about 1/2" and is about 2" towards the DS from the Dash hoop support.
    Last edited by shark92651; 07-18-2018 at 07:31 PM.

  40. #156
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    Cable Crimper

    EdwardB mentioned the hydraulic cable crimper he found online and I ended up buying the same unit so thought I would post some more info for those interested. Search for YQK-70 - It was about $40 on Amazon. At first I was going to use the fusion lugs and terminals with the solder slug inside but I saw they are around $6-$10 each and I need about 12 of them so that's $72 right there. The basic tinned copper lugs are only about $1 each so was easy for me to justify the investment.

    [/url]

    It easily makes nice 6-sided crimps that are very strong. I put two crimps on the battery terminals because they are so long, and only 1 on the standard lugs.




    I had to find a chart to convert the die sizes to AWG. Here it is:

    AWG MM2
    12 4
    10 6
    10-8 8
    8 10
    6 15
    4 25
    2 35
    1/0 50
    2/0 70

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  42. #157
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    Nice tool to have. One of those that you may not use much, but when ya gotta do the job, it becomes priceless.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  43. #158
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Re-routed rear harness

    It's been as hot as the surface of the sun in Texas the last week so haven't been spending much time in the garage. Also taking a few mini weekend vacations so may be awhile before I make some more decent progress. I have mostly completed my power wiring, just waiting on a couple parts from Del City and then I'll post up some photos and details of that work in my next update.

    After looking at where I drilled holes for my rear harness, dash power wire, and where I intended to run my clutch line, I decided I didn't like it. With the dash in place, the harness was visible. Probably most wouldn't notice it, but it bothered me so I decided to re-route things. I put the upper inside DS footbox wall in place and decided to route those items through that panel instead.





    Here is where the harness will come in. Hidden much better IMO.



    Here is a block plate I made to cover the old holes. Another benefit is that it fills most of that large gap between the panel and the 2x2 tube. This will be mostly buried when I get Lizard Skin and carpet in place, but I'm going to powder coat it so that it looks good from the back side before I rivet it in place.

    Last edited by shark92651; 07-24-2018 at 08:50 PM.

  44. #159
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Power wiring complete

    I have been out of town the last couple weekends and waiting on a part from DelCity, which I finally received today, so I was able to button up the power wiring. There is nothing here that is new as I relied very heavily on what others have done, especially EdwardB, but there were a few subtle changes in the Coyote Controls pack and I'll do my best to detail that here in case anyone else finds it useful.

    There was a label on the wiring harness near the main connection for the PCM that identifies this version of the controls pack as CM-14A006-A504VB REV. 2 04/2018 313. The two biggest changes I see from previous versions is that they eliminated the Clutch Top of Travel connector and switch and also removed the 2nd power connector that plugged into the PDB. You only have to deal with the Clutch Top Travel switch and the single "unlabeled" power lead to the PDB.

    In this photo you can see the wiring for the PDB, the supplied 250A fuse, and the battery disconnect switch. I ran 2AWG cable from the battery to the switch, over to the fuse, and then up to the PDB. The power connector that normally goes to the lug on the front of the PDB is actually attached to the right-side of the fuse, but is hidden in this photo. The 4AWG cable on the top (switched-side) of the switch runs down to the starter. Inside that small loom in the middle of the junction there that is also running down with the starter power wire is the (B) Battery Ground BL and the (N) Starter Lead. The Battery Ground needed to be extended and the Start Lead was rerouted from it's original location near the PCM. You can also see a small loom that contains an 8AWG wire coming off the top of the disconnect switch and running into the dash - this will power everything inside the dash.



    Here is the 4 AWG power cable and the (N) Starter Lead coming out of the harness in the area where the starter will be located.



    Here are the 2AWG battery cables and routing. I tapped a 3/8-16 hole for the ground and grounded the main battery cable and the (B) Battery Ground BL. I used my Dremel with a small sanding drum to remove the powder coat and used dielectric grease to keep the connection corrosion-free (I hope).



    FFR supplies a 5/16" hole on the engine mount here that is a perfect pilot hole for tapping a 3/8" engine ground.



    Here is the mounted PCM and how I routed the cabling here. I cut and capped off the wires for the EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering), which I won't need with my KRC hydraulic system, and tucked them inside the harness. Continuing towards the front on this side is the wire for the engine fan and the connections for the MAF and Alternator which I'll deal with later.

    Last edited by shark92651; 08-01-2018 at 10:34 PM.

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  46. #160
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    Thank you for pointing out that hole.
    Hopefully I remember it when it comes time to wire mine.

    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    I have been out of town the last couple weekends and waiting on a part from DelCity, which I finally received today, so I was able to button up the power wiring. There is nothing here that is new as I relied very heavily on what others have done, especially EdwardB, but there were a few subtle changes in the Coyote Controls pack and I'll do my best to detail that here in case anyone else finds it useful.

    There was a label on the wiring harness near the main connection for the PCM that identifies this version of the controls pack as CM-14A006-A504VB REV. 2 04/2018 313. The two biggest changes I see from previous versions is that they eliminated the Clutch Top of Travel connector and switch and also removed the 2nd power connector that plugged into the PDB. You only have to deal with the Clutch Top Travel switch and the single "unlabeled" power lead to the PDB.

    In this photo you can see the wiring for the PDB, the supplied 250A fuse, and the battery disconnect switch. I ran 2AWG cable from the battery to the switch, over to the fuse, and then up to the PDB. The power connector that normally goes to the lug on the front of the PDB is actually attached to the right-side of the fuse, but is hidden in this photo. The 4AWG cable on the top (switched-side) of the switch runs down to the starter. Inside that small loom in the middle of the junction there that is also running down with the starter power wire is the (B) Battery Ground BL and the (N) Starter Lead. The Battery Ground needed to be extended and the Start Lead was rerouted from it's original location near the PCM. You can also see a small loom that contains an 8AWG wire coming off the top of the disconnect switch and running into the dash - this will power everything inside the dash.



    Here is the 4 AWG power cable and the (N) Starter Lead coming out of the harness in the area where the starter will be located.



    Here are the 2AWG battery cables and routing. I tapped a 3/8-16 hole for the ground and grounded the main battery cable and the (B) Battery Ground BL. I used my Dremel with a small sanding drum to remove the powder coat and used dielectric grease to keep the connection corrosion-free (I hope).



    FFR supplies a 5/16" hole on the engine mount here that is a perfect pilot hole for tapping a 3/8" engine ground.



    Here is the mounted PCM and how I routed the cabling here. I cut and capped off the wires for the EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering), which I won't need with my KRC hydraulic system, and tucked them inside the harness. Continuing towards the front on this side is the wire for the engine fan and the connections for the MAF and Alternator which I'll deal with later.


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