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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - Graduated!!

  1. #241
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    You're a better man than me... How could you RESIST giving the throttle a few blips!!??
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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  2. #242
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    You're a better man than me... How could you RESIST giving the throttle a few blips!!??
    I definitely gave it more than a few "blips" when I went tooling around the neighborhood last weekend

  3. #243
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Major setback

    Well I officially have a major setback Seems I have a problem with my Tilton hydraulic release bearing and I am afraid the transmission has to come out to repair/replace it. After successfully completing my first go cart ride I had an issue the next time I took it out right before Thanksgiving. The hydraulic release bearing would not retract and I barely got the car back into the driveway. The issue didn't happen right away and I drove it a few miles without issue, but the next weekend on another go cart ride I would release the clutch pedal and the transmission would not engage. Eventually it engaged and I was able to get it home and in the driveway, but could not get it to move after that and had to push it into the garage and wait until after my Thanksgiving trip back home to take a look at it. The bearing was extended what looks to be about 5/8" which I believe is within spec but it would not retract. I ended up bleeding some fluid from the circuit and pushed on it a bit with a long screw driver and it retracted. I then re-bled the system and reset my clutch stop hoping the issue was that it wasn't set quite right. After testing that it was moving in and out I fired up the engine and put it into gear and it did the same thing, it would not retract and engage the clutch. This time when I took a look into the bellhousing I could see a little hydraulic fluid dripping off the HRB. Damn. I guess it's either defective or I somehow damaged it by overextending it, although I am not certain that I did because I was pretty careful in the initial setup of the gap and the setting of the clutch stop. I did have to adjust the clutch stop a bit more as it was initially grinding a bit to get it into Reverse, so maybe I did overextend it, I don't now for sure.

    So am I going to have to pull the engine or is it possible to drop the transmission in a Coyote/TKO configuration without pulling the engine?

  4. #244
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Well I officially have a major setback Seems I have a problem with my Tilton hydraulic release bearing and I am afraid the transmission has to come out to repair/replace it. After successfully completing my first go cart ride I had an issue the next time I took it out right before Thanksgiving. The hydraulic release bearing would not retract and I barely got the car back into the driveway. The issue didn't happen right away and I drove it a few miles without issue, but the next weekend on another go cart ride I would release the clutch pedal and the transmission would not engage. Eventually it engaged and I was able to get it home and in the driveway, but could not get it to move after that and had to push it into the garage and wait until after my Thanksgiving trip back home to take a look at it. The bearing was extended what looks to be about 5/8" which I believe is within spec but it would not retract. I ended up bleeding some fluid from the circuit and pushed on it a bit with a long screw driver and it retracted. I then re-bled the system and reset my clutch stop hoping the issue was that it wasn't set quite right. After testing that it was moving in and out I fired up the engine and put it into gear and it did the same thing, it would not retract and engage the clutch. This time when I took a look into the bellhousing I could see a little hydraulic fluid dripping off the HRB. Damn. I guess it's either defective or I somehow damaged it by overextending it, although I am not certain that I did because I was pretty careful in the initial setup of the gap and the setting of the clutch stop. I did have to adjust the clutch stop a bit more as it was initially grinding a bit to get it into Reverse, so maybe I did overextend it, I don't now for sure.

    So am I going to have to pull the engine or is it possible to drop the transmission in a Coyote/TKO configuration without pulling the engine?
    Man, hate to hear that. For your sake and also because I just installed my Coupe Coyote/T-56 setup with the same Tilton piece. Just out of curiosity, have you contacted Tilton? I have no idea what their customer service is like, but might be worth a try to see if they have a suggestion about why you're having a problem. Which clutch did you use, BTW?

    I personally haven't tried, but I guess it is possible to get the TKO out of the Roadster without pulling the engine. Isn't nice though from what I've heard.
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  5. #245
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Man, sorry to hear that Just out of curiosity why the hydraulic release bearing vs. a conventional bearing, fork and slave?

    Hope you're able to solve it with minimal pain and suffering.

    Jeff

  6. #246
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I'm contemplating how much "fun" it'll be getting the Coyote & Trans combo IN THE CAR for the 1st time... and wouldn't want to think about "Out"...

    Maybe the universal currency of pizza & beer, and a friendly word to someone who has a lift in their shop? Getting the car overhead and having a few bodies to help may make pulling the trans out an easy process?

    The other alternative is a LOT of work...
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
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  7. #247
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Which clutch did you use, BTW?
    I have the Ford Performance Centerforce clutch.

  8. #248
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    I have the Ford Performance Centerforce clutch.
    Same here. I'll be very interested to see/hear would you come up with about this.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  9. #249
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    I have the tillton with coyote T56 and works good, went with .75 master and it is small ( need full travel on pedal ) for my back and leg.
    Have you tried un doing fitting to let fluid out of slave(i would use bleed line for this) that
    would tell you if it is the bearing unit or not. OR the adjustment collar may have moved, you can look at the unit thru the clutch arm hole in bellhouse.

  10. #250

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    I hate to hear about your setback. I have the same Tilton bearing but have not yet started my engine. I,ll be interested in the fix.
    build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds

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  11. #251
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    Sorry about your set back but the transmission can easily come out from below. The difficulty is doing it laying on your back and muscling the weight of it. You may have to remove the shifter (mid-shifters definitely have to come off) and don't forget to drain the transmission. Then removal will be in reverse order of the installation. When time for putting it back in, cut the heads off a couple of 8 inch bolts with the same thread as the four that mount it to the bell housing and use them for rails to slide the transmission back into the bell housing.
    King
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  12. #252
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    Very sorry about your trouble. I can relate as I had a flywheel problem during my gokart stage and had to replace. Unfortunately, it's one of those things that is frustrating. But relative to the entire build, it won't take much time to do. I was a little fortunate in that I found that my new rear main seal had a leak. So I was able to fix that while the flywheel was off.

    Again, sorry for your frustration. Wish I was closer that I could help. Dave
    Dave
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  13. #253
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Needless to say this has been a bit deflating to the momentum. At this point I am just going to get through the holiday season at least and then get to tackling this problem. Work has been taking away from my build time the last couple months anyway. I will attack this with renewed vigor at some point. Thanks for all the help and encouragement!

  14. #254

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    Ugh... Really sorry to hear this, Shark. Yeah, like you said, enjoy the holidays and you'll come back renewed and ready to tackle this!

  15. #255
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    It's hard going backwards, but it's a good feeling to put that thing back where it belongs and know that you took the time to do it right.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

  16. #256
    Senior Member Hacksaw84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    I got my back-ordered alternator kit in yesterday so I went ahead and installed it. Pretty straightforward install, despite the lack of any real instructions other than a diagram with torque values.





    The instructions don't address this pulley at all. I assume it could be used in place of the silver one on the tensioner. Any reason to use one over the other?

    Did you ever get an answer on this pulley? I was wondering the same thing? Since yeah, the instructions are useless.
    In the description of the kit it says "Larger pulley to slow the armature speed, reduce drag and reduce parasitic hp loss" I assume that is the pulley already installed on the alternator.

    I bolted my alternator up and it does not really feel right. The lower left bolt does not really snug up the alternator. I am curious if I am missing something because I am missing the nut that goes on the upper right bolt (the one with the star head).

  17. #257
    Senior Member Hacksaw84's Avatar
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    I answered my own question(s).

    I talked to ford performance and here is what they told me on the pulley:
    "That is an idler pulley with a stronger bearing for high RPM use. It was production on the Boss Mustangs. Remove the bolt and the accessory drive belt idler pulley. To install, tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft-lb)."

    On the alternator I didn't realize the nut in the rear pulled in when you tightened it up. Once I got the missing nut, it was all good.

  18. #258
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hacksaw84 View Post
    I answered my own question(s).

    I talked to ford performance and here is what they told me on the pulley:
    "That is an idler pulley with a stronger bearing for high RPM use. It was production on the Boss Mustangs. Remove the bolt and the accessory drive belt idler pulley. To install, tighten to 24 Nm (18 ft-lb)."

    On the alternator I didn't realize the nut in the rear pulled in when you tightened it up. Once I got the missing nut, it was all good.
    I was about to say I installed it anyway since they must have supplied it for a reason. Glad you got the hardware issue sorted out.

  19. #259
    Senior Member Hacksaw84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    I was about to say I installed it anyway since they must have supplied it for a reason. Glad you got the hardware issue sorted out.
    I thought the same but wanted Ford to confirm. They are pretty good about answering things like that, got help right in their online chat. Apparently not so good with those instructions though.

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  21. #260
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Pulled the trans, now how to fix?

    Well I finally got the time and motivation to pull my transmission out. I bought a universal transmission tailshaft plug to keep the fluid from spilling out and cut down the unused side to give me a bit more room to move the transmission rearward. I removed the driveshaft safety loop and driveshaft, then inserted the plug and sealed it up with some duct tape. I also removed the shifter plate and sealed that up as well. Then I disconnected the flex hydraulic line and caught the fluid in an oil tray. I wrapped the line from the release bearing in a zip-lock and rubber banded it to avoid any further mess. Then it was a matter of removing all the bolts from the transmission mount and the transmission support. I put my floor jack under the trans and lifted it slightly to pull out the transmission support. Then I removed the four bolts holding the trans to the bell housing. My son worked the floor jack from the rear of the vehicle while I was underneath on the creeper. It was a process of carefully pulling the transmission rearward until the input shaft cleared the bellhousing. Then we slowly lowered the front of the trans until the shaft cleared the outside of the bellhousing. The trans was tilted quite a bit with the rear of the trans resting on the frame cross-member with a rag underneath for protection. Eventually it was clear. It was a job, but not as awful as I imagined it would be.















    Now that it's out I have to decide what to do next. I'm not exactly sure if the problem was due to faulty installation or what. Tilton support even asked me if I removed the powder coating from the front of the bellhousing, as if a slight cant could have caused the issue with the slave not being able to retract. If the Tilton has such a narrow window between proper setup/operation and total failure, count me out How difficult would it be for me to switch to an external slave such as the Forte kit at this point? Can I install it and set it up without having to pull the bellhousing and put my transmission back in place using the reverse of the procedure I used to pull it out?

  22. #261
    Senior Member FLPBFoot's Avatar
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    Great pics and sorry for all the problems.

    Give Mike Forte a call tomorrow. He'll know exactly what you will need to do.

    I went with the slave on mine from Mike. Set up was easy and his mounts are top quality.

    Steve
    2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
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  23. #262
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Now that it's out I have to decide what to do next. I'm not exactly sure if the problem was due to faulty installation or what. Tilton support even asked me if I removed the powder coating from the front of the bellhousing, as if a slight cant could have caused the issue with the slave not being able to retract. If the Tilton has such a narrow window between proper setup/operation and total failure, count me out How difficult would it be for me to switch to an external slave such as the Forte kit at this point? Can I install it and set it up without having to pull the bellhousing and put my transmission back in place using the reverse of the procedure I used to pull it out?
    Continue to be really sorry about the problems you're having here. Did you index the bell housing when you assembled it? Aside from the Tilton HRB, if it's not in spec Tremec would likely give you grief for any warranty claims. The question from Tilton about the powder coat isn't an unreasonable question. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the powder coat from the bell where it contacts the block. The spec (.005/.010 total) is that tight. I've indexed three QuickTime bells like yours and my experience is they were almost perfect. So I doubt yours is out of spec. But unless you measured it, can't know for sure. Point is if it's out of spec enough to affect the HRB, which I have a little trouble imagining, you might have a bigger problem with the trans down the road.

    But to your point, if you want to switch to a traditional clutch arm / slave cylinder setup (which I completely understand) wouldn't be that hard although you may have to disconnect the bell housing. Did you leave the pivot in the bell housing or remove it? If it's still there, you could probably get the clutch arm in and hooked on the pivot. But it may not be adjusted at the right height. Once the clutch arm and TOB are installed, the rest (slave cylinder mount, slave cylinder, etc.) would be pretty straightforward with everything installed. Good luck.
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  24. #263

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    Im glad to hear the removal wasn’t as bad as you thought it would be. Im sure youll make the right decision for your build as to what to do next. I have to do the same, but my car is still in go-kart stage so i think it will be easier to pull the engine and tranny assembly out altogether. My issue was my own fault as i allowed the bleed line to rub against the rotating clutch causing the line to fail. For time constraints i didnt even consider going another route. im replacing the Tilton HRB.
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  25. #264
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Continue to be really sorry about the problems you're having here. Did you index the bell housing when you assembled it? Aside from the Tilton HRB, if it's not in spec Tremec would likely give you grief for any warranty claims. The question from Tilton about the powder coat isn't an unreasonable question. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the powder coat from the bell where it contacts the block. The spec (.005/.010 total) is that tight. I've indexed three QuickTime bells like yours and my experience is they were almost perfect. So I doubt yours is out of spec. But unless you measured it, can't know for sure. Point is if it's out of spec enough to affect the HRB, which I have a little trouble imagining, you might have a bigger problem with the trans down the road.

    But to your point, if you want to switch to a traditional clutch arm / slave cylinder setup (which I completely understand) wouldn't be that hard although you may have to disconnect the bell housing. Did you leave the pivot in the bell housing or remove it? If it's still there, you could probably get the clutch arm in and hooked on the pivot. But it may not be adjusted at the right height. Once the clutch arm and TOB are installed, the rest (slave cylinder mount, slave cylinder, etc.) would be pretty straightforward with everything installed. Good luck.
    Can you describe what is involved in "indexing" the bell housing? I didn't remove anything from the bell housing (the pivot), but I don't really recall seeing anything but perhaps it is in there. I was focused on the Tilton unit from the beginning so I never even researched how to install the standard clutch fork and bearing.

  26. #265
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vspeeds View Post
    Im glad to hear the removal wasn’t as bad as you thought it would be. Im sure youll make the right decision for your build as to what to do next. I have to do the same, but my car is still in go-kart stage so i think it will be easier to pull the engine and tranny assembly out altogether. My issue was my own fault as i allowed the bleed line to rub against the rotating clutch causing the line to fail. For time constraints i didnt even consider going another route. im replacing the Tilton HRB.
    My car is still Go Cart as well, haven just taking it on a couple short rides before this issue came up. For me the thought of pulling the engine, or more specifically, removing the cooling system, headers, sensor connections, and everything else attached to it fills me with dread.

  27. #266
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Can you describe what is involved in "indexing" the bell housing? I didn't remove anything from the bell housing (the pivot), but I don't really recall seeing anything but perhaps it is in there. I was focused on the Tilton unit from the beginning so I never even researched how to install the standard clutch fork and bearing.
    There are a number of articles and videos on the web. Try this one: https://www.bowlertransmissions.com/...install-guide/. Talked about here on the forums quite a bit. Your Quicktime is probably fine, and with the Coyote it's not easy to correct if it's off. But it's related to the comments Tilton made to you regarding alignment, powder coat affecting it, etc.

    I seem to remember the Quicktimes come with the pivot installed. But I'm not positive. You should be able to see it there. Either directly or with a mirror. But the height typically needs to be adjusted. So if you go that way, probably the bell housing has to come off.
    Last edited by edwardb; 01-29-2019 at 10:10 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  28. #267

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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    My car is still Go Cart as well, haven just taking it on a couple short rides before this issue came up. For me the thought of pulling the engine, or more specifically, removing the cooling system, headers, sensor connections, and everything else attached to it fills me with dread.
    Yes i see. The Coyote is a much bigger engine and a liitle more complex than my install. I would dread removing it also.
    build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-USRRC-vspeeds

    Build School: July 14-16, 2017
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    Mk4 - 289 USRRC Roadster kit, Roush 427SR with Schneider Racing custom camshaft, Fitech EFI, TKO600 (.64-5th gear), 15" wheels, stock brake calipers, under car exhaust with Spintech 7000 muffler, no roll bar, Russ Thompson turn signal, removable steering wheel, and many other small upgrades and modifications

  29. #268
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Just replace it with one of these and be done.

  30. #269
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Clutch Fork Install

    Well I'm finally getting back to my build and hopefully I can get the hydraulic clutch swapped over to the external slave type without too much effort. I am really trying to get the pivot bolt and the fork/bearing in without having to pull the bell housing. I put a second nut on the bolt and using it as a jam nut I am able to adjust it easily with a wrench. The problem is, I have no idea what I am doing here. How do I know how far in/out the pivot needs to be and if the fork is adjusted properly? If I remove the bearing, I am able to slip the fork in and then attach the bearing. Here are a couple shots and a video. Any advice on how to know if I have it adjusted properly? Thanks for any help.






    Here is a video showing how much movement is in the fork at this time. How should I adjust this?

    Video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/5SNmvz8TSCo

  31. #270
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Well with some help from forum members and reviewing some pics in other threads, I got the pivot ball adjusted and locked down. I put a thin bit of Lucas Red N Tacky in all the right spots and got the fork and bearing reinstalled. This weekend I plan to get the transmission back in with the Forte clutch unit. I'm glad to finally be back on the project and hope to regain the momentum I lost at the end of last year.


  32. #271
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Transmission is back in

    This morning my son came over and we managed to get the transmission back in without too much trouble. I got the transmission frame, the support and spacer, and the drive shaft all buttoned up. Just need to get the driveshaft safety loop back in place and the gear shift plate on the top. A builder friend had a spare Forte hydraulic kit that he gave me - gotta love the FFR community! However it seems the bracket is the wrong one. He said this was for a small block with the TKO and I have the Coyote/TKO combo. Hopefully all I need to do is get a new bracket. Does anybody know if this is the case?




  33. #272
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    A builder friend had a spare Forte hydraulic kit that he gave me - gotta love the FFR community! However it seems the bracket is the wrong one. He said this was for a small block with the TKO and I have the Coyote/TKO combo. Hopefully all I need to do is get a new bracket. Does anybody know if this is the case?
    Correct. The only difference between the kits from Forte is the bracket. You need one specifically for the Coyote/Quicktime/TKO combination. Bell housing can make a difference too. Not the best pic, but you'll need the same one I have on my #8674 Anniversary build, which we've talked about before. You can roughly see how different is than the one you have.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  34. #273
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Thanks Paul. I talked to Forte today and he is going to do a swap for me for basically covering shipping.

    A few weeks ago one of my employees asked me what color I was planning to paint the car and I told him either Ford Ruby Red like my truck or a silver, but leaning towards the Ruby Red. Look what showed up in the mail for me today! This is all hand drawn - he has some serious skills! I picked up a frame on the way home from work and have it hanging up in on my garage wall now.


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  36. #274
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    That drawing is awesome!
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2/19/19, First start - 9/8/19, Go Cart - 9/14/19
    1965 Mustang Convertible 4v 289
    Build Thread HERE

  37. #275
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Trans tunnel cover fabrication

    I completed most of the fabrication of my trans tunnel cover today. I am going to cover it with the same pad and leather as my dash. The cup holders are 3.5” poker table cup holders with rubber inserts from a Nissan Armada. They are wide enough to hold my phone, and I have USB chargers just above in my dash center support. I used 3M panel adhesive and countersunk rivets to add a 2nd piece of aluminum underneath for extra rigidity and to hold the patch around the shifter opening. I plan to make it removable through the use of rivnuts on the 1” tubing and some 3/4” aluminum strips on the side with countersunk holes and flat head screws.






  38. #276
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Trans tunnel covered in leather

    Today I got my trans tunnel covered in leather and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. First here are some pics of the finished product, less the shifter boot and mounting system, and then I'll include some details on my process in case anyone finds it useful.







    I only put foam on the very top of the tunnel cover, except I wrapped the sides only 1/4" down. The reason is that I will be mounting it from the sides with some 3/4" strips of aluminum that will be lined up with the bottom of the tabs on the side, which are 1" long. I figure having the foam and leather wrap over the edge and then meet the aluminum bar would prevent trash from collecting in the seam. Also by not having the foam under the aluminum strip it will be much easier to install and should make for a nice look without excessive "puffiness".



    Here you can see that I cut the foam out around my shifter boot trim ring and the cup holders. I did this with my dash as well and I find that it makes for a clean look. You also don't have the foam working against you trying to compress it when you are trying to seat the parts in place.



    I used the same Landau Top and Trim adhesive that I used on my dash. I probably have enough to do at least one more car if I had to. I got the leather seated on the foam and then slowly work my way around all the edges, trimming as I go. The only real hard part here is working the corners, but working slowly and cutting and trimming pie cuts as you go makes for a nice result. I cut the holes out with my X-Acto and use shop shears for the rest.



    I used some leftover Thermo-Tec insulation to insulate and secure the cup holders in place. I heard there is quite a bit of air pressure in the tunnel at speed and I don't want them popping out. I also plan to brush on some of my leftover Lizard Skin heat and sound insulation on the rest of the bottom before I mount it.



    Finished product
    Last edited by shark92651; 04-28-2019 at 09:54 AM.

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  40. #277
    Boydster's Avatar
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    I like that recessed look by trimming the foam back. Nice work.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    427W, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, Graduated Nov 4, 2019

  41. #278
    Senior Member Higgybulin's Avatar
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    Very nice!!
    New MK4 kit picked up 4/10/23!!!
    SOLD
    MK4 #9759 picked up on 4/3/19
    351C, 3 link, 17's, dual roll bars

  42. #279
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looks great. Like what you did a lot.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  43. #280
    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    That really looks good!! I also love what you did.

    Keep in mind that in the immortal words of edwardb that lizard skin does not like the elements and you might want to top (or bottom in your case lol) coat it with something to protect it.
    ALWAYS pay attention to Paul
    Also yay and congrats! It’s been a tad over a year since you bought them

    Kurt
    Last edited by SSNK4US; 04-27-2019 at 09:51 PM.
    If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

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