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Thread: Shark92651's MK4 Coyote Build #9327 - fully titled and registered now

  1. #361
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Windshield Mounted

    This afternoon I got the windshield installed with the help of my son. It was not without incident, as usual. I manage to strip one of the threaded holes in the brass insert on the drivers side. It certainly doesn't take much to strip it, it seems I was barely turning it and none of them seem to fit very tight - gaps at the top. I guess I will go ahead and pester Whitby's to fill my order and I'll have the painter swap them out for the SS inserts when he has to pull the windshield back off. From the advice I received in my other thread, I measured down 13" from the bottom screw hole and marked the side bars and then cut the excess off at a 45 degree angle with my angle grinder. Once I got enough of the openings in the body opened up for the windshield to fit properly, measuring 27" from the top of the body above doors to the top screw, I reached in and marked the holes. I pulled it back out again, center punched them, and used a series of drill bits to get it up to the 27/64 bit and then tapped the holes to 1/2" - 13. When I installed the bolts I found that the drivers side was flush to the body mount but there was a small gap on the passenger side, and I used a couple 1/2" washers (about 1/8" thick) as spacers and then tightened everything down. I still need to square and clean up the windshield rubber and get the trim rings mounted, but otherwise I am done with this for now.




  2. #362
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Radiator aluminum installed

    This morning I got my front radiator aluminum installed as well. I bought the piece from Mike at replicaparts.com and also the top piece from Breeze Automotive. I had the large radiator piece powder coated a satin black several months ago along with some other parts, while the Breeze piece comes already powder coated. After some careful measuring it seemed that the front aluminum was going to be just a bit too tight. I briefly though about changing the angle of the radiator, but I decided that just trimming the aluminum would be a lot easier. I removed the bulb seal from the inside edge, marked it with tape and trimmed about 1/2" off the bottom and sides, tapering to the point at the top where the piece is riveted into place.




    Here is a shot from inside showing the seal of the top aluminum piece. I put a piece of bulb seal on it and it seals it up quite nicely.




    Because I have already (roughly) mounted the hood, I could not get to all the rivet holes I had drilled earlier before I installed the body. I did manage to get 3 rivets installed on each side, which will hold it just fine for now, and I will ask the painter to install the last few rivets when he has the hood and body off for paint.


  3. #363
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Doors mounted

    Yesterday I got both of the doors fitted and the latches installed. For now I am using stacks of washers and standard hex nuts on the plungers. Later, I plan to dress that up with some spacers cut to length and some cap nuts.




    I did have a bit of a time getting the driver's side door mounted. I started another thread in the Roadster forum and posted quite a few pics there. I got some great advice and was able to get the door hung fairly well. No need to repeat that info so I'll just link to that thread here: Need advice on fitting the @#$!$ drivers side door and latch

    I ended up using the laser cut spacer on the driver's side and also had to elongate the slot in the striker plate by about 1/8". The passenger side was a breeze to install in comparison. No spacer was needed so in order to allow clearance for the carriage bolt mod on the latches, I marked the fiberglass and then opened up the existing hole with a drum sander. Here is the "before photo" (I forgot to take an after, but you get the idea).






    I installed the check straps as well. The manual calls for rivets but I prefer making things removable if possible. I want to pull these back off later to dye them black anyway. I used 10-32 SS bolts and nylon locknuts to mount to the door hinge and I drilled/tapped the 2x2 frame rails for the same 10-32 SS bolts.

    Last edited by shark92651; 08-11-2019 at 02:07 PM.

  4. #364
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Trunk mounted

    Next up was the trunk and I got it mostly done this morning. Like most of the body panels, it ain't perfect but it closes and latches tight. I'm hoping my painter pro can straighten up all the gaps for me.






    The lip on the body at the bottom of the trunk was not cut very straight so I spent a fair bit of time sanding that until it was even all the way across. I then went ahead and mounted the bulb seal and the catch. That paper in my trunk is the template I created for cutting out the carpet. I decided to just leave it in place as a protector so that the carpet won't get too dirty during all the body work.


  5. #365
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    ...For now I am using stacks of washers and standard hex nuts on the plungers. Later, I plan to dress that up with some spacers cut to length and some cap nuts.



    If you're talking about the stack of washers shown in the photo...and intend to send the car here for body & paint...don't bother with making spacers because when all is said and done there's about a 90% chance that things will change once the doors and body positions are finalized.

    Jeff

  6. #366
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    If you're talking about the stack of washers shown in the photo...and intend to send the car here for body & paint...don't bother with making spacers because when all is said and done there's about a 90% chance that things will change once the doors and body positions are finalized.

    Jeff
    Absolutely, i plan on that being one of my "back from paint" projects

  7. #367
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Side pipes mounted

    Yesterday I got both of my side pipe holes opened up and the pipes mounted. Since I chose the factory hole cutout option, I already had a hole there that followed the shape of the template in the manual so I decided it was best to stick with that basic shape. I rested the side pipes on my jack with a moving blanket underneath to protect it and put it into position. On the driver's side I could tell right away I needed to cut out quite a bit more on top and towards the rear. I couldn't even get close to putting the top bolt in. I printed and cut out the paper template from the manual and used that as a guide. I marked it short of where the final hole needed to be and taped the template in place. I had to mark the top and side, and then move the template to alight the other vertical, and finish marking it. I made the long straight cuts with my dremel, cutting diagonals near the corners. I then shaped the corners with a drum sander on my drill and then test fitted the pipe again. I had to do this about 3 times on each side in order to get to the final shape. I ended up with about 1/2" on the sides and about 3/4" on the top.

    Here are a couple shots of the driver's Side. This pipe seems to be hanging perfectly to me. It is fairly parallel to the body and the ground. At first I was concerned because the top bolt was extended beyond the cutout and it would most certainly hit the body when the engine moves. I then remembered I hadn't put my splash guard back in place. Once I put that back in, the bolt head clears the body so that will not be an issue any more.






    Here is the passenger side. I measured this side and found that it hung down about 3/4" lower, and the tip extends out about 1 3/4" further than the DS. I loosened all four bolts and lifted the tip of the pipe, rotating it against the bolts, and then held that position with my jack and re-tightened all of the bolts. After doing this, the height is now perfect so I think I can get by with a single wedge spacer to bring the tip in 1.5".


  8. #368
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    License plate light wiring

    Last night I also finished up the wiring for the license plate light. I searched the forums to see how others routed the wiring and this is the position I ended up with. I like this spot because it is close to where I brought the wire loom up through the trunk floor and I can just zip-tie it to the hinge to keep it neat. You can shine a bright flashlight through the fiberglass to see where the metal plate is to make sure you can avoid it. I had some left over grommets from my wiring and found one that slipped over the wire loom and used that to determine what size hole to drill. My grommets don't work very well on the thick fiberglass so I kind of cut slits on the back of it and shoved it in the best I could. I'll try to find a more suitable grommet and replace this one after paint.

    I pulled a single wire out of some Romex home wiring cable I had on hand and used that to fish from the hole I drilled up to the trunk opening. This wire is stiff enough to fish easily, yet flexes better than a coat hanger would. I found that it only needed to go about 1/2 way up the hood before it found an opening and then arched over to the hole.




    I used a couple of those "license bolt" LEDs in my modified license plate holder so I twisted the leads together and put a bit of heat-shrink on each to keep them together. I used some of the small spade connectors on each so that they can be easily removed for paint or bulb replacement.




  9. #369
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Seats installed

    Today I got the seats secured. I am using the Breeze seat brackets which provide a little bit of recline and adjust-ability, although I doubt I will ever move them from the rear most position. The lower bracket is riveted to the floor and frame members using 1/8" and 3/16" rivets, depending on whether you are drilling into a frame member or just the aluminum floor.




    I also used the supplied boards which are supposed to give a bit more thigh support and prevent the foam from pressing down between the seat frame rails. The instructions called for the board to extend 3 1/2" beyond the front frame rail, but I found that was not going to work with my leather seats. I don't know if it is because the way the leather wraps on the sides prevents the board from moving forward or what, but I ended up setting it at 2". I sprayed the boards with a water seal product as the instructions recommended, and I had to drill a hole to allow me to pass my seat heater wires through.




    It's nice to have the seats finally secured. I'm about ready to take my first ride with the body on.


  10. #370
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Side pipe wedge installed

    I ordered a side-pipe adjustment wedge from Breeze last week and it came in this weekend so I went ahead and installed it. I bought the 1-1/2" wedge and another gasket. This worked great to bring the passenger side pipe in and parallel to the body. The driver's and passenger sides are within 1/4" of each other now. In order to get the nuts to engage I needed slightly longer bolts so I picked up some 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" stainless socket head bolts at Lowes.







    I went ahead and installed the front splash guards on both sides now that the pipes are in place. I made the splash guards removable with some 10-32 rivnuts on the F-panels. I still need to make some tabs to lock them down to the body at the bottom since I had to trim them quite a bit to fit the way I like.


  11. #371
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Wind wings, sun visors, and mirrors installed

    I also got the wind wings, sun visors, and mirrors installed today. When I first started researching for my build I decided I wanted all these options. The wind wing mounted side-view mirrors and the windshield mounted rear-view mirror with the bracket from Dark Water Customs were recommended by several as providing superior visibility to the stock mirrors and location on the body. Besides, there are a few less holes to put in the body and I really like they way they look.

    The wind wings were pretty easy to assemble and install on the windshield side bars. The sun visors had me a little concerned as the brass is easy to strip and I read that the screws can bottom out on the glass. I test fitted all the screws with the brackets and it did not feel to me like anything was bottoming out. I installed the screws until I could just feel some resistance, just snug. In each case the bracket felt secure so I felt pretty good about it. I then removed the screws one at a time and put a little blue loctite on each one and reinstalled.




    The rear-view bracket from Dark Water was a completely different story, however. At first I tried to use the supplied hex nuts but I just could not get them to hold securely. At first I tried using the end of a small screwdriver to keep the nut from turning while tightening, but that didn't work very well and the bracket was still loose. Also, the supplied screws were bottoming out on the metal inside the windshield frame. I took a look at EdwardB's thread and saw that he used some rectangular nut plates to install his. I have some 8-32 nut plates left over from my hood latch installation so I cut those down and drilled/tapped them to 5mm - .80 to match the supplied screws. I used my dremel to cut off both sides of the nut plates and my grinder with a flap disk. I had to take some material off the top and bottom, and also reduce the thickness to get it to slide into the frame. I also had to take a bit off the length of the screws to keep them from bottoming out. It sure is a lot of work to have to make your own nuts




  12. #372
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Anti-sub belts

    I pulled my seats again to install the anti-submarine belts (should have planned ahead and done this when I riveted in the seat bracket). I drilled a 1/2" hole through the bottom seat bracket and through the floor and attached with the supplied hardware. Hopefully the next time I pull the seats will be after paint when I am installing the carpet.


  13. #373
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Side Pipe Hangers mod

    When I tried to install my side pipe hangers I could tell there was a problem. This is the PS pipe after I installed a wedge spacer to bring the pipe in 1 1/2". I still need to bring the tip in another 1/2" to match the DS, but even so you can see that the hanger is a bit high, nearly touching the body, and a bit too far to the outboard. The DS actually made contact with the body and I need to allow for some movement. I don't know if this is an issue with the way my engine is sitting in the mounts, or just the combination of parts I am using or what, but I didn't not want to mess with the engine or mounts so the fix would have to be with the hanger itself.




    The fix I decided on was to make a small extension bracket to bring the hangers down and in to the proper position. I brought home a piece of Kydex plastic from work and used that to make a template. I bolted it to the pipe tab and just held the hanger up to it in the best position and marked it for holes. I then shaped it and used the template to transfer the outline to a piece of 2" x 3/16" steel bar I picked up at Home Depot. I then powder coated them gray. I would have preferred silver but I had the gray on hand and this will not be very visible anyway. I ended up with a basically triangular shape as I will only use a single bolt on the pipe tab in order to allow movement - from reading the forums this seemed to be a common recommendation to prevent cracking around the tab.




    For mounting the rubber hanger and the pivot, I went with 5/16-18" rivnuts to work with the supplied hardware. I didn't want to through bolt into the floor and I had picked these up at the start of the build just for this purpose anyway.




    And here is the DS installed. It allows 1/2" clearance between the body and the top of the hanger. I also installed a stainless washer between the bracket and the tab to facilitate movement. I'll install the PS after I get that last 1/2" wedge installed.


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  15. #374
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Vinegaroon chemistry lesson

    Thanks to a tip from Jeff Kleiner, I made up some Vinegaroon and turned my check straps black tonight. Vinegaroon is basically just vinegar with dissolved/rusted steel wool in it. It causes a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather that turns it black. Unlike dye it will not rub off and it doesn't change the color of the threads so it makes for a cool look. Literally took 30 seconds to do and no stained fingers.






    https://www.instructables.com/id/Vin...k-Leather-Dye/

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  17. #375
    Senior Member DavidW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    Thanks to a tip from Jeff Kleiner, I made up some Vinegaroon and turned my check straps black tonight. Vinegaroon is basically just vinegar with dissolved/rusted steel wool in it. It causes a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather that turns it black. Unlike dye it will not rub off and it doesn't change the color of the threads so it makes for a cool look. Literally took 30 seconds to do and no stained fingers.






    https://www.instructables.com/id/Vin...k-Leather-Dye/
    Thats awesome, I'm doing that. I never liked the tan leather strap, a chemistry experiment for the family what awesome fun!

  18. #376
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    I have a "gelcoat driver"!

    Aside from just a couple loose ends (notably wipers, PS pipe hanger, wheel spinners, and undercoating my splash guards) I have a completed gelcoat driver! I just contacted my insurance company and will begin the process of insurance, title, and registration and enjoy it like this until Kleiner can work it into the schedule for paint.








  19. #377
    Senior Member chmhasy's Avatar
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    I too will be running it in gel coat. I have been following a guy on youtube called boat works today https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0k...zdqFUk3oTaHBuA to learn how to sand and polish the gelcoat. so I bought some red gelcoat from http://www.mertons.com/index.html in Mass IMG_20190707_130039.jpg

  20. #378
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Congrats on getting her there! She looks great now enjoy as much driving as you can the remains in the year.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017.

  21. #379
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Wipers installed

    On Saturday I got the wipers installed, which is something I needed to finish before inspection. In hindsight I probably should have just gone with some temporary clip-on wipers, but I bought these when I ordered the kit so I was going to install them. They were pretty straight forward to install following the instructions, but I do have a few tips. The holes are drilled at a pretty steep angle and to a size of 5/8". At first I tried to use the jig they provide while drilling. I found that that size bit was just grabbing too much on the jig or the body itself and was not working very well. I was hoping to find a 5/8" hole saw at Home Depot, but they don't sell one that small. In the end I just used the jig to mark the starting location with a Sharpie and then used a smaller bit, holding the drill next to the jig to approximate the angle. After I got a small hole started I used a step-bit up to 1/2", and clamped the jig back in place and ran the 5/8" bit to set the final size of the hole. With a 1/2" "pilot" hole already in place the 5/8" bit ran just fine in the jig.

    I gave up trying to flare that stainless tubing they provide. It was just way too hard and my only attempt to flare it ended up with a lopsided flare. This was using the Eastwood flaring tool I borrowed from a friend. I ditched the stainless, went to Autozone and picked up a piece of the basic steel 5/16" tubing and flared that easily.

    Another thing that wasn't completely obvious to me at first is that when you are ready to install the cable in the wheelboxes, you really need to remove the wheelboxes from the body and feed the cable into them while putting the tubing in place. At first I thought it just snapped into place but that doesn't work, at least not for me. And finally I did use a torch and bent the arms just a bit to bring the wipers down and more parallel with the base of the windshield. They work, but they don't really feel like quality wipers to me and in the end I'll probably rely more on Rain-X than the wipers.




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  23. #380
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Looks great.... as you drive it in Gel-Coat, you will find little things that need to be tweaked. You'll be glad you are not painted yet. Your body looks really good as well. Now go put some miles on it.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here
    First Start 11-1-18
    ----First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - 1000 Miles 3-23-19 / 2200 Miles 4-30-19 / 7500 Miles 8/16/19 / 9000 Miles 9/15/19.

  24. #381
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadAsp427 View Post
    Looks great.... as you drive it in Gel-Coat, you will find little things that need to be tweaked. You'll be glad you are not painted yet. Your body looks really good as well. Now go put some miles on it.
    Appreciate the comments. I have insurance and just picked up my temp 30 day tag and taking it for an alignment and inspection on Friday. Hopefully I will be done with the entire title/registration process soon.

  25. #382
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Alignment and inspection complete

    This morning I took the car to an ASE Master Technician for the inspection and alignment. This was the first time I took the car outside of my neighborhood and wouldn't you know it that on the way home a guy in a BMW wanted to race already Now I have to find somewhere to get a weight certification, fill out a few other forms, and then get it to the Tax office and hopefully I can get this baby titled and registered.


  26. #383
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Blocking engine heat to the cockpit

    Despite all my efforts to insulate my foot boxes, floor, and firewall, a lot of heat is coming in from the gap between the body and the top and sides of the footboxes. Today I pulled off all my wheels and removed all my splash guards (again, I hope for the last time for awhile). I also removed my louvers so that I could get better access to block this air path. I bought some black pool noodles online and cut then into appropriately sized pieces and shoved them in to fill the gaps the best I could. I put a light in the seat shining towards the front to more easily spot the gaps. I blocked the gaps on both sides and, as you can see, it should be a lot cooler in there now. This is just temporary as Kleiner is going to install some better insulation in this area before he re-installs the body after paint.

    Before



    After

    Last edited by shark92651; 09-15-2019 at 08:21 PM.

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  28. #384
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Steering wheel badge

    There are few "finishing touches" I can do before paint, but I went ahead and installed the steering wheel badge. I did as others suggested and drilled a small hole above the o-ring to relieve air pressure if I have the need to pry it off later. Looks good


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  30. #385
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Splash guards undercoated

    I pulled all my splash guards and painted them with 2 coats of my leftover Herculiner bed liner. I taped the edges where the bulb seal goes so it would be easy to re-install it. You can also see the filler panels I fabricated to fill the gaps between the body and frame in front of the rear wheels. I intend to secure my filler panels with rivets once the vehicle comes back from paint, but just holding them in place with self-tappers for now so will be easy to remove until then. The main front and rear splash panels are all removable via 10-32 rivnuts. I'm glad to finally be done with these as I probably spent more time screwing around with these panels than all the other panels in the entire build combined!

    All panels coated




    PS Front Splash Guard Installed




    PS Rear Filler Panel




    PS Rear Splash Guard Installed


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  32. #386
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Halibrand wheel hubs and spinners

    This is how I decided to secure the center hubs for the fake wingnuts on the Halibrand wheels. I drilled and tapped three 8-32 holes in the hubs and secured them from the inside with 1/2” long set screws and a drop of blue locktite. I considered drilling and tapping through the outside of the wheel but decided I like this approach better. I also put some anti-seize on the wingnuts before tightening them just snug. The set screws should provide plenty of resistance to avoid a situation where the hub just spins when trying to remove a stuck spinner (I hope!)

    Before re-installing the wheels I made sure all the suspension bushings and ball joints had plenty of grease, re-installed the wheels and torqued them down to 90 ft lbs.





    Last edited by shark92651; 09-20-2019 at 06:18 PM.

  33. #387
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Name plate installed

    I went ahead and riveted on the F5R name plate. After input from others I decided to put it on top of the passenger side footbox.

    Last edited by shark92651; 09-20-2019 at 06:18 PM.

  34. #388
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    First highway miles

    This morning I took a short road trip, about 50 miles in total, to go get a weight certification. It was the first time I've had her up to highway speeds, around 80 most of the way and it was a blast. It was a good opportunity to shake things out, and quite literally I did shake something loose - one of the nuts on the driver's side door hinge came loose and fell off - guess I forgot to tighten that one. Otherwise it was pretty uneventful, but a blast to drive! I like my choice of the .64 5th gear as it cruises right along at 80 mph at 2500 rpm.

    The car weighs in at 2360 with a full tank of gas and is pretty well balanced. I have all my paperwork in order and will go to the tax office next week to hopefully get title, registration, and tags.




    I took a couple more photos in the driveway when I got home. Here is the current state of the car at this point. I've pretty much done about all I can do until body work and paint, other than go out and have fun!




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  36. #389
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Title, registration, and tags

    This past Monday I took all my paperwork to the county tax office and got everything submitted to get my title, registration, and tags. I did all my homework up front so was able to get out of there in about 20 minutes with my registration sticker and 60 day temp paper tags. They said I should expect to receive my title and permanent license plate in about 3-4 weeks.

    I also finished up my "Kleiner modded" license plate holder. I found that I needed just a bit more room to get the plate to fit without touching the trunk latch so I removed everything and cut a couple notches in the bottom of the "bridge" that holds the lights to allow the plates to slip all the way up into the holder. I also opened up the mounting holes in the trunk just a bit so that I could bring the entire unit up just a bit and that allows it to fit so I shouldn't have to modify the plate itself at all. For a plate mount I purchased an inexpensive license plate blank on Amazon and modified it to fit. I cut a notch in the top to clear the light housing and secured it to the license plate holder with some #10 flathead screws cut down to about 1/4" length so that they will not touch the trunk. I also drilled some access holes in it so that the entire unit can be easily removed from the trunk without removing the plate mount.


  37. #390
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    May 2019
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    Houston, Tx
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    Quote Originally Posted by shark92651 View Post
    This morning I took a short road trip, about 50 miles in total, to go get a weight certification. It was the first time I've had her up to highway speeds, around 80 most of the way and it was a blast. It was a good opportunity to shake things out, and quite literally I did shake something loose - one of the nuts on the driver's side door hinge came loose and fell off - guess I forgot to tighten that one. Otherwise it was pretty uneventful, but a blast to drive! I like my choice of the .64 5th gear as it cruises right along at 80 mph at 2500 rpm.

    The car weighs in at 2360 with a full tank of gas and is pretty well balanced. I have all my paperwork in order and will go to the tax office next week to hopefully get title, registration, and tags.




    I took a couple more photos in the driveway when I got home. Here is the current state of the car at this point. I've pretty much done about all I can do until body work and paint, other than go out and have fun!



    This is great. I'm only about 2 (2 and a half) years behind you.

  38. #391
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Feb 2018
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    Frisco, TX
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    Forte AC Cobra pedals

    The stock Wilwood pedal pads weren't really working out for me and I wanted a bit more room to reach my dead pedal. After seeing what others had done I decided I wasn't crazy about the look after cutting them down so I decided to order the bolt on AC Cobra pedals from Mike Forte. The pedals are a little too thick for the rubber inserts to hold properly in place so I used a couple drops of super glue under each one and attached the center cover with a bit of leftover silicon caulk. I like the look and feel of these pedals, they are quality parts.


  39. #392
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Feb 2018
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    Frisco, TX
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    Lund Racing custom tune

    A couple weeks ago I ordered an nGauge unit and custom tune from Lund Racing. Several people on the forums have recommended them so I felt it was a good choice. I'm optimistic that the custom tune will optimize the engine performance and I will feel it was worth the investment. I am about 1/2 way done with the turning process at this point. The Lund tuner asked me a few questions as to parts in my build (air intake, exhaust, fuel pump size) and asked for a photo of my intake. He asked me about a "PATS delete" and I had to Google that. I think is an anti-theft system but I don't know if that is even present in the crate motor and control pack. He then asked me about if I "locked the IMRC open", again I had to go to Google. I believe that has to do with the CMVC system and I told him it was plumbed as normal but I have no idea if/how it functions on the crate motor. He asked me to perform a "read vehicle" function and send him the file. He then informed me that it looks like the IMRC is "locked open" with the stock tune, I have no idea if that is correct or not but I'll trust his knowledge on this. He also sent me a base tune which I flashed to the PCM. I then performed the requested data logging at idle, holding engine at various RPM, and then performing slow RPM climbs on the street and sent the data logs over the weekend. This morning, they send me an "R2" tune which I have loaded. They now want me to perform the same data logging as before but add in a WOT from 2,500 to 5,000 RPM and then send the logs again. I will keep you posted as to my results. So far I must say I am impressed with their quick turn around and customer service.



  40. #393
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    Sep 2017
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    Grayslake, IL
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    Looking good! I also installed the Forte billet pedals. Nice product. Even with them the brake and gas pedal were a little too close so I move the brake and clutch pads over by using only the right most screw holes in the pads and the left most holes in the Wilwood arms. Very solid and much better spacing.
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2/19/19, First start - 9/8/19, Go Cart - 9/14/19
    1965 Mustang Convertible 4v 289
    Build Thread HERE

  41. #394
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Feb 2018
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    Frisco, TX
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    Fire extinguisher

    I picked up a small H3R Hal Guard fire extinguisher and a billet bracket from Eddit Motorsports. The bracket is is quite a bit cheaper than the one from H3R and I like the look of it. It is advertised as for 2.75" cylinders and the small H3R is 2.6". I bought it anyway as I figured I could use a wrap or two of electrical tape or a piece of rubber to fill the gap. In the end, it clamps down tight on the cylinder without doing anything so that was a nice surprise. I mounted it on the rear wall above the U-Joint cover. At first I thought I could get the bracket to fit on top of the rectangular frame tube at that spot and just drill/tap all four corners. The bottom holes were drilling into the edges of the tube, so I had to bring it down a bit, and used rivnuts through the aluminum at the bottom, and tapped the top holes for 10-32 screws. I just filled the extra holes I drilled with some JB Weld and it will all get covered up with carpet anyway.



    Other that installing the fire extinguisher, not much to do at all on the car until after paint. I did receive an updated tune file from Lund. After loading the new tune, I was asked to add a WOT from 2500 to 5000 rpm in my next data logging session. I did that this morning and sent the file back to Lund. I suspect we are really close to the full WOT dyno test, probably after the next tune update I expect to get back on Monday.

    It's fall but here in Texas it's still in the mid-90's. It is supposed to drop to the 60's by next Friday. Can we at least get a couple weeks of actual fall weather before winter arrives, please? I want to drive the car without sweating!

  42. #395
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Feb 2018
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    Frisco, TX
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    Fully titled and registered

    Earlier in the week I received my Texas title in the mail and on Friday I received my plates. It's fully titled and registered now!



    Today I did my first "field test" of the 3.5" poker table cup holders. I'm happy to report they hold a Chick-Fil-A medium soft drink with straw and a Mac-N-Cheese with no issues. The cup did tilt under heavy acceleration but it didn't fall over.



    I also did another data logging session for Lund. This time they asked for a WOT from 2500 - 7200! It took a couple loops around the service road to finally get on it without any traffic (especially cops) and I hit about 80+ in 2nd gear, that was fun.

    I parked it on the street near my house and took this photo today. I can't stop looking at this thing


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