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Thread: Oil and filter?

  1. #1
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    Oil and filter?

    Ok all, I know there will be alot of different opinions on this but I am looking for some insight as to what the best concenious is on oil filters and oil for our 818s, of course the car is stored for the winter so a bit of spring and fall driving with most of it during the summer, summer here is 25-40 deg Cel with good amount of humidity. I dont plan much if at all track days most of it will be agressive road driving and stop and go

    I have been reading alot of good things about Rotella T6 5W40 so thats on the top of the list. the big thing seems to be filters, I figure you cant really go wrong the the factory filter but is anyone have any other filter suggestions ie WIX. mobile 1 , just wondering if there is another filter that might be a bit bigger and more filtering area or better at filtering smaller microns.

    please let me know your opinions. thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Hey Lumpyguy.
    I use the Rotella T6. It was recommended buy "Turn In Concepts". They are the go to guys for Subaru performance in these parts.
    I used a canton block on the engine, then out to a remote oil filter (with pressure and temp sensors) through a Large wix racing oil filter and then back to the engine through a liquid/liguid heat exchanger. If you going with the stock location, I would get a Subaru OEM filter and make sure to shield it well from exhaust header heat.

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    Something to keep in mind here is that any 'racing' filter is made for just that. Oil/filter should be changed after every event. If you're not to that level, you're not really 'racing' despite what the marketing on the side of the filter box might lead you to believe. A 'racing' filter is going to filter down to ~90-100 microns (K&N for example in 90). OEM filters down to 5 microns. That is a HUGE difference in filtration! Another thing to consider is that while the OEM filter is small is size, it's big on filter density (area). It also has the usual Subaru oddities for specs. IIRC there are only 3 filters that actually meet the OEM filter specs, and one of them is OEM. If you change your filter regularly (less that 3,000 miles for a street car, and less for track car) you will NEVER clog an EOM filter and it will NEVER have enough pressure drop to be of any concern. We recommend only OEM despite it being a street car or 1,100whp Suby powered land-speed car. I've come across no other that works as well in so many varying conditions/applications.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by killerbmotorsport View Post
    Something to keep in mind here is that any 'racing' filter is made for just that. Oil/filter should be changed after every event. If you're not to that level, you're not really 'racing' despite what the marketing on the side of the filter box might lead you to believe. A 'racing' filter is going to filter down to ~90-100 microns (K&N for example in 90). OEM filters down to 5 microns. That is a HUGE difference in filtration! Another thing to consider is that while the OEM filter is small is size, it's big on filter density (area). It also has the usual Subaru oddities for specs. IIRC there are only 3 filters that actually meet the OEM filter specs, and one of them is OEM. If you change your filter regularly (less that 3,000 miles for a street car, and less for track car) you will NEVER clog an EOM filter and it will NEVER have enough pressure drop to be of any concern. We recommend only OEM despite it being a street car or 1,100whp Suby powered land-speed car. I've come across no other that works as well in so many varying conditions/applications.
    Please cite where you found the K&N Filter is a 90 micron filter. Yes, the K&N inline filters for -AN lines are in the 90 micron range, they say right on the website the inline filters are available from 25 to 100 micron, but I've never seen or heard of the spin on oem replacement K&N filters being anywhere near that large. I'm no K&N fanboy, the only time I use their racing filter is when I know I'll be changing the filter at a long racing week and the welded nut on the can makes it easy to do that quickly.
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  5. #5
    Sgt.Gator's Avatar
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    Lumpyguy, regarding your original question, I generally try to avoid the "best oil" question. That question usually generates an endless debate over oils. I'm a bit surprised it hasn't set off a firestorm here. If you go to the NASIOC, Legacy GT, or Corvette forums you will find threads with 40 pages of arguments about Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Lucas, Shell Rotella, it's ENDLESS! If you want to lose yourself in oil discussions wade thru 540Rat's blog where he tests them. OMG! https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

    You'll also find people who swear Mobil1 will destroy your turbo. The guy that rebuilds my turbos includes a written warning not to use Mobil1, or at least he used to. I've tried to educate him the problem is not Mobil1, it's the GF-5 spec because the GF-5 requires the reduction of zinc and phosphorous to increase catalytic converter life.

    Here's my take on the whole issue and the oils I use.

    1) ALL GF-5 rated oils have reduced zinc and phosphorous. Amsoil, Shell, Mobil 1, Pennzoil; if it says GF-5 it has the government mandated reduction. That's why I always look there first, I eliminate the GF-5 oils.

    Virtually all race oils have elevated zinc and phosphorous, but no detergents and other additives that you need if you keep the oil in your car for months and thousands of miles at a time. Do not use a race oil in your street car.

    So the happy median for street cars seems to be a detergent street oil with more zinc/phosphorous than GF-5 oils. For all my street cars I'm using Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 Euro Spec. It still has a good amount of Zinc (1100) and Phosphorous (1000). I buy it in the 5 quart bottle at Walmart. Usually $25 and often on sale for $22. The entire Mobil 1 product spec chart has been updated and is here: https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf

    For racing I use Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 conventional (they make a VR-1 synthetic, but it's too expensive for as often as I change oil on my racing budget).

    2) Blackstone Labs has said many times they see absolutely no difference between conventional and synthetic oils in their long term tests on fleets of cars and trucks. It's in their FAQ on their website. In fact they see little if any difference in any street oil. Here they do a brand test which luckily for us they chose the Subaru 2.5 Turbo EJ to use as an example, and the Shell Rotella oil you asked about is one the test oils:
    https://www.blackstone-labs.com/News...uly-1-2017.php

    So the whole discussion is probably pointless!
    Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 06-16-2018 at 03:54 PM.
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  6. #6
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    I have been using Mobil 1 0-50 Racing oil which has a high zinc and phosphorous content in my R for 2 seasons, it is not recommended for street use. As Gator mentions the Euro Spec Mobil 1 has worked great in my DD Turbo Mini for 130,000 miles.
    If any one is looking for Mobil 1 Racing oils we stock it and offer FFR folks a discount, PM or give me a call 270 777 4508.
    And as the report points out buy a premium oil and you are pretty safe.
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 06-17-2018 at 11:57 AM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member C.Plavan's Avatar
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    The Mobil 1 15w50 has great zinc/phos content also. Great for hot weather.
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