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Thread: Gears grinding when tranny "cold"

  1. #1
    mburger's Avatar
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    Gears grinding when tranny "cold"

    Once again asking for help/thoughts before I get ripped off once again by the local shops here in Punta Gorda. (the stories I could tell...)

    When my car is "cold", my clutch is to the floor and shifting from 1st to 2nd the gears grind like the clutch isn't pushed down.
    After several miles/minutes it's ok, no issues.

    Where should I start looking for this issue?
    When I say "cold", my garage is 80+ degrees here in SWFL in the winter.
    It seems it takes a couple of miles before the clutch works like it should.
    I'm at the point I want to use second - third when taking off (which really I can easily) so I don't grind the gears for the first few miles.
    This happened when I test drove it last April and I thought it was me being an idiot and not depressing the clutch enough.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  2. #2
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    You may just not be getting full disengagement of the clutch and it could just be a matter of cable adjustment. How much free play do you have at the top? Is it difficult to engage reverse from a dead stop?

    Jeff

  3. #3
    mburger's Avatar
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    Hey Jeff,
    Well, I notice when I'm at a dead stop I hear/feel a clanck when going into reverse.
    30 years ago (the last I drove a standard) my M21 would sometimes need me to let up a bit on the clutch to engage the gear, but I know that is life with a standard transmission.

    How do I check the free play at the top?
    Sorry for the dumb questions.

    If i had to guess, the cable needs adjustment because not much has been done to this car until I "rescued" it and there is most likely some clutch wear.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  4. #4
    Member cwrandolph's Avatar
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    What fluid do you have in your transmission? Should be Dexron II or equivalent.

  5. #5
    mburger's Avatar
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    Don’t know but I will have it drained and replaced tomorrow when it’s on the lift for rear spring replacement.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  6. #6
    mburger's Avatar
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    Seems to be a little play at the top, so I'll adjust the cable and also drain/fill the transmission while the springs are installed.
    Thanks again!
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  7. #7
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    If you can shift 2-3 without issue even when "cold", sounds like 2nd gear synchro may be on its way out?
    By the way, I have driven here in the fall when temperatures are sub-freezing with no issues...synthetic oil (Royal Purple Synchromax) is my choice but there are others of similar formulations available.

  8. #8
    mburger's Avatar
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    I’m hoping it’s not syncros. I think the body has to come off to get the tranny out.
    Perhaps I’m wrong about that.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    On a MK1 without the transmisssion tunnel bracing, the trans can be lifted out through the interior

    http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...4445495809.jpg

  10. #10
    mburger's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pic Derald - very helpful. Where there's a will there's a way I guess! Better than removing the body for sure.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  11. #11
    Member DVANSLEEN's Avatar
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    Trans grinding

    Quote Originally Posted by mburger View Post
    Thanks for the pic Derald - very helpful. Where there's a will there's a way I guess! Better than removing the body for sure.
    Mine has been doing that for years,1st to 2nd grind when cold. I never has gotten any worse so I just take it slow until oil warm up. I guess the trans will need new synchros. at some point.

  12. #12
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    I think GM syncromesh is the preferred trans lube. Change the lube first.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  13. #13
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    A t5 should come out the bottom easily. It’s gotta go up in the back, back, down in the front then out.

    I pulled my t5 out the mk4 that way.

    Mk1 might be different. Although if no trans tunnel top bracing, it’ll come out the top easily. I pulled my old mk2 t5 out that way once.
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  14. #14
    mburger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    Mk1 might be different. Although if no trans tunnel top bracing, it’ll come out the top easily. I pulled my old mk2 t5 out that way once.
    Thanks, Derald posted a pic of how it can come out through the top.
    I’ll start with proper cable adjustment and drain the fluid and add the good stuff and see how it goes from there.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  15. #15
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Railroad View Post
    I think GM syncromesh is the preferred trans lube. Change the lube first.
    No, not for a T-5, use what it was designed for, Mercon-Dexron ATF.

  16. #16
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Redline makes Mercon-Dexron ATF for the T5: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Cheers,


    John
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  17. #17
    mburger's Avatar
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    Changing the fluid tomorrow with Mercon-Dexron ATF. The guy that replaced my front lower control arms with the FFR arms somehow screwed that up and had the left front low so that got fixed today by someone else. I’m told the rear is out of alignment by .4 degrees. Looking at BMR adjustable rear lower control arms to get that resolved. $$$ My car has PS and I gave them the alignment specs, camber -0.5 to -1.0 and caster 8 degrees and total toe-in of 1/16” which of course they didn’t do so that is getting redone. Sigh.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  18. #18
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    I had a Mustang years ago that did the exact same thing. Clutch dust had built up on the input shaft and the clutch disc would not come away from the flywheel smoothly when the clutch was pressed down. I can imagine rust or the wrong grease could create a similar issue. The grind is because the engine is still driving the input shaft. It would be easier to change the fluid, but sorry.

    HTH, Glen
    Coupe 0652 408 Windsor 510 hp TKO600-68OD 3.73 Traction-lok A/C and heat, Guardsman Blue with White stripes picked up 9/14 first start 7/10/15 go kart 8/15/15 registered, painted (body-on) 11/12/16 inspected and on the road 4/20/17

  19. #19
    mburger's Avatar
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    Thanks Glen.
    Fluid was changed today and it seems to shift better now. Seems like it drops into gear better/smoother. I need to put more miles on it to get a better idea how much it has helped.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  20. #20
    mburger's Avatar
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    Took the car to get gas and run an errand.
    I think it’s worse now. Until I’ve got a couple miles on it, even down shifting into 3rd will kick the shifter back at me or grind.
    After a couple miles it seems good.
    Looks like there is a new transmission or rebuild in my future along with a new interior after getting it out and back in. Very disappointed.
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  21. #21
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I have heard of issues with the stiff rubber shifter boot FFR supplies. Some have even had it pulling the shifter out of gear. Perhaps it's causing resistance when shifting, and it's not shifting cleanly into the next gear. Then, after driving a few miles the tranny heat causes the boot to soften up, and becomes more flexible.

    No doubt, the synchros would wear faster in 1st and 2nd, and may need replacing, but you don't have to do a compelet overhaul.
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  22. #22
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I'm still going with clutch adjustment or a stretched, ready to fail cable.

    Jeff

  23. #23
    mburger's Avatar
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    Thank you.
    If it’s coming out of the car, I may as well rebuild it and I may look into a mid-shift or whatever it’s called mod. I mean, things will be torn apart anyway so...
    Right now, I’ve spent so much on this car, I just need to drive it and enjoy it a bit and save for the rebuild, labor and parts.
    I’ll have questions on a new thread when it’s time to think about a possible shift linkage mod.
    Taking the car to a big show here in SWFL at a KIA dealership tomorrow morning early. But tonight I’ll enjoy a few shots of Jack and not think about transmissions! ��
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  24. #24
    mburger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I'm still going with clutch adjustment or a stretched, ready to fail cable.

    Jeff
    Sunday I am bringing my car to the one guy here in town I trust, 65 Cobra Dude. (Henry) I want to see the progress on his Coupe and he suggested I bring the car over. I’m hoping it’s as simple as you suggest Jeff!
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

  25. #25
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Henry and I are old friends! He'll help you sort it out. Tell him I'll see him in a few weeks

    Jeff

  26. #26
    mburger's Avatar
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    Will do!
    Mark
    Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.

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