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Thread: LSx Powered Coupe Build

  1. #1
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    LSx Powered Coupe Build

    My car finally arrived today! I'm anxious to get started to say the least. The next couple days will be spent sorting parts and verifying contents. After a quick look through the car and the packing list I already found I got the wrong springs for the coil overs and at least one of the aluminum panels was ripped off in transport (sheered the self tappers). Once I get everything sorted I'll be able to get to work.

    The Plan:
    This car will be primarily track oriented with much of it's time spent chasing cones and some occasional road course use. To me everything is a street car no matter how wild, so it's going to be driven as well. It'll be run in local SCCA events, Holley LS Fest, Goodguys Autocross, regional SCCA CAM events, and any other excuse I find to drive it mercilessly. The vast majority of my business is LSx based so I'll be going that route for power. The targets for this build will be under 2,300 lbs and 480-490 rwhp on my Mustang MD1100 chassis dyno.

    The Combination:
    Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit
    LS1 based 347 - Ported 241 castings, hydraulic roller, 12.2:1 compression, flex fuel, 0411 PCM
    McLeod or QuarterMaster aluminum mini twin clutch combo
    T56 Transmission
    3-Link
    Moser 8.8
    Koni Double Adjustables with R-model springs
    Power steering
    Windshield wipers (required for some street car events)
    Carpet kit
    Most likely 18x11 wheels all around to keep it square and allow the best selection of tires for class (200TW required)

    The Unknown:
    Gauges
    Seats
    Steering Wheel
    Brakes (Leaning toward Wilwood 14" Front and 12.88" Rear)
    Wheels (Forgeline is a leading candidate but American has one in their new AR Forged lineup that I really like)
    Color (Possibly BMW Santorini Blue)

    I'm waiting on a couple more parts before I can fabricate engine mount pedestals for the chassis. Thankfully I kept an old "ventilated" aluminum block I can use for mock up. Once I get those fabricated, find a location to mount some ballast, and add some chassis tie downs for the trailer it's off to powdercoat. I may end up drilling all the rivet holes before going to powder but haven't decided on that for sure. I need to put some thought into that as some panels are going to have rivet nuts and bolts to make for easy track side maintenance. I already got my block and rotating assembly back from the machine shop where everything was cleaned up, honed, and balanced. Assembly on that will begin shortly. Follow along and I'll do my best to update regularly.
    Last edited by nskaats; 03-25-2018 at 09:27 PM.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  2. #2
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    We all have that one friend, right?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  3. #3
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Here's a few pictures I moved over from my intro post. Wiseco 12cc dome pistons to get compression up to a pump gas friendly 12.2:1 that will respond extremely well to E85 when I run that. Rods are Callies Compstars that will easily handle the power level and 8,000 RPM or more. The valve covers are Holley pieces that will give it a bit more of a vintage look. Engine will be full of ARP studs throughout and King Bearings.
    Last edited by nskaats; 03-25-2018 at 09:13 PM.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  4. #4
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    Nice build plan. I can't say it for sure but have you looked into driveshaft length for a T56 with a live axle? On roadsters I believe it is pretty much a non-player. I don't recall how the coupe's added wheelbase impacts the driveshaft length so maybe it works.

  5. #5
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    Nskaats,

    A friend is building a Gen3 Coupe with a Windsor, T56 Magnum and new IRS. The drive shaft will be about 8" between the u-joints. And he's moving the motor forward a bit less than 2 inches. I would expect your drive shaft will be a similar length but I don't know how the solid axle changes the input lengths. Short driveshafts are not a big deal with IRS but are with a solid axle.

    I like your build plan. I even like the LSx plan. If Peter Brock can put a LS7/T56 in his Coupe that's good enough for me.

    I'm building a Challenge Car with the intention that it will be a streetable track car. I'm more geared to road tracks but may try autocross.

    Good luck on your build.

    Jim

  6. #6
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    The T56 length is always an issue, but I'm planning to move the engine forward a little bit anyway. Partially for that reason, partially for weight distribution.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  7. #7
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    I managed to inventory all of my components last night. I'm still missing quite a bit, most importantly the rivet spacing tool. I want to get all of the rivet holes drilled and chassis fabrication done so I can get this thing to powder coating. The other pieces I'll need to move forward are the passenger side engine mount bracket (C6 Corvette piece) and the lower control arms that haven't shipped yet.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  8. #8
    Senior Member Clover's Avatar
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    Congrats, I am going to follow this build closely as I think an LS in the Coupe should be wicked. The rivet spacing tool has holes drilled ever 3 inches on one side and ever 2 inches on the other side I think. I am guessing you could make your own very easily if you wanted.
    Last edited by Clover; 03-30-2018 at 09:57 AM.

  9. #9
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clover View Post
    Congrats, I am going to follow this build closely as I think an LS in the Coupe should be wicked. The rivet spacing tool has holes drilled ever 3 inches on one side and ever 2 inches on the other side I think. I am guessing you could make your own very easily if you wanted.
    I did not have that info, but I do now. I'm waiting to hear back from Dave. I have plenty to do in the mean time, but if it's going to be a while I can easily make my own.

    For those interested in doing the same conversion I do plan to compile a list of parts necessary to build. After taking some measurements this morning I do believe I'm going to convert my T56 to the forward shifter location. I think that would be a much better spot with my longer arms. I'm 6'2" with long arms for my size.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

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    Quote Originally Posted by nskaats View Post
    I did not have that info, but I do now. I'm waiting to hear back from Dave. I have plenty to do in the mean time, but if it's going to be a while I can easily make my own.

    For those interested in doing the same conversion I do plan to compile a list of parts necessary to build. After taking some measurements this morning I do believe I'm going to convert my T56 to the forward shifter location. I think that would be a much better spot with my longer arms. I'm 6'2" with long arms for my size.
    Have fun with the LS build! I built a Roadster instead of a Coupe but used a LS3/T56M combo and I LOVE it. The power is amazing, the size is very conducive to the space in a FFR, it's super light, and the aftermarket is endless. I'm thinking '33 next before a Coupe, but follow just about every LS build regardless of model.

    Keep up the good work I'll be following along!

    -TJ

  11. #11
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Updates!! The parts trickled in from Factory Five along with a couple other vendors over a few weeks so I got a chance to get started on this thing. I'm trying to get any cutting, drilling, or welding done before the chassis gets coated. So everything will be in place but not torqued down yet.

    The first order of business was to get rid of the Ford engine mount pedestals since I'll have no use for those. I have to admit it felt kinda good to cut Ford mounts out! The long awaited missing C6 engine mount bracket showed up so I'll be working on getting the engine in place over the next few days. I'll have to build a pedestal for the bushing to sit on that'll be around 2.5-3" up from the frame rail just from eye-balling it. The end goal is to set the engine as low as possible with the drain plug being dead even with the bottom of the chassis.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  12. #12
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    The front and rear suspension pieces finally all showed up so I got all of that in along with the Moser 8.8. There won't be a ton of changes made there yet aside from mounting tabs for ballast up front and making the chrome cover go away.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  13. #13
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    I also went with a new fuel tank, fuel level sender, and pump assembly. The factory pump got swapped out for a Racetronix 340 LPH pump and heavier wiring. The braided AN line is all E85 compatible and hung using billet P-Clamps that are mounted to the chassis using rivet nuts (I refuse to use self tappers on anything). I'm still working on running it through the tunnel up to the front of the car where I'll hang the regulator.

    Progress has been a little slow while parts trickled in, but I'm moving nonetheless.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  14. #14

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Bravo Fellow Dark Sider, Bravo!

    Steve's Stupid Question:

    How long do you think the drive shaft is going to be from U-Joint Centerline to U-Joint Centerline?

    Also, this site may be of use to you for headers, or NOT:
    http://www.schoenfeldheaders.com/imcaump-modified4.html

    Good Luck & Congratulations!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-30-2018 at 06:10 PM.

  15. #15
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Bravo Fellow Dark Sider, Bravo!

    Steve's Stupid Question:

    How long do you think the drive shaft is going to be?
    I think when I talked to Dan, he said his LSx coupe driveshaft was pretty short. Something like 8 inches. Being a solid axle car I'm doing a few things to avoid putting the u-joints at a high angle of misalignment. The first will be moving the engine forward a bit to move weight forward and add driveshaft length. Using the standard T56 helps since it's about an inch and a half shorter than the magnum. Running the heavier springs will also avoid excessive travel in the rear end.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  16. #16

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I'm 10.5" centerline to centerline (U-Joints) but had to move the engine pretty far forward to make it fit.
    Driveline and pinion angle was a mess on my MK-4 so pay close attention to those angles when you mock up your driveline.
    For the record, I am so excited to see an LS-powered Coupe with a 3 Link with the correct number of forward spinning gears.
    To me the LS is the perfect engine for these cars, bar none.
    (Sorry Ford Fans But You All Know How I Am!)

  17. #17

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    My suggestion is to get rid of or modify the factory tank. In a hard right turn, the fuel will move to the left side of the tank and uncover the pick up, starving the engine. You need something with a real collector box in it. Or you'll need to install a separate surge tank somewhere.

    You might be able to get away with a large Holley Hydromat. But you'll have to remove the stock baffle to use it.

    Also, I would use push-lock hose instead of braided. It's a lot easier to work with, and it's cheaper. But - most importantly - it's lighter. Since you're building a race car, adding lightness is a primary goal. You'll save 5-10 pounds on your fuel and oiling system.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    Member: www.MileHiCobraClub.com
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

  18. #18
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    My suggestion is to get rid of or modify the factory tank. In a hard right turn, the fuel will move to the left side of the tank and uncover the pick up, starving the engine. You need something with a real collector box in it. Or you'll need to install a separate surge tank somewhere.

    You might be able to get away with a large Holley Hydromat. But you'll have to remove the stock baffle to use it.

    Also, I would use push-lock hose instead of braided. It's a lot easier to work with, and it's cheaper. But - most importantly - it's lighter. Since you're building a race car, adding lightness is a primary goal. You'll save 5-10 pounds on your fuel and oiling system.
    I appreciate the input! I've actually considered all of the above and ended up going this route mostly for added weight. I'm still estimating a completed weight of around 2,300 lbs which will be 200 lbs light for class. It's difficult to add 200 lbs of ballast so I'm adding a little here and there, but most of it will be in lead form low on the front of the frame.

    I plan to run with a full tank at all times on autocross. By the time the car hits a road course it will have a cell in it for sure.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  19. #19

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Nick,

    How far forward would you have to place the engine in order to get the drive shaft to about 10-12"?

    I know the T56 is longer than the ZF 6-Speed that I'm running, but my wheelbase is 5" shorter than the Daytona and my differential (Dana-44 Style) is longer in the snoot by about 1.5" than the 8.8 Ford style pumpkin. What worked for my MK-4 (SBC) was to align the exhaust with side pipe exit location on the body. It gave me enough room to get the driveshaft length and pinion angle taken care of.

    How far can you scoot your driveline forward compared to the stock location for the Ford power plants?

    Steve

    PS: I just sent you a PM.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-30-2018 at 10:13 PM.

  20. #20
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    I can't really say since any evidence of the Ford mounts are long gone. I can't really use headers for reference either since I'm fabricating from scratch on those.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  21. #21
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Playing around with engine location a bit tonight. If I convert to the forward shifter location, this location puts the shifter right in the center of the hole. The primary target of sitting the oil pan level with the bottom of the frame should be easy for mockup, them move it up maybe 1/8" just for good measure. I'm still playing around with a few things. I plan to build some adjustability into the mounts so I can adjust driveline angles, etc.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by nskaats; 05-01-2018 at 08:02 PM. Reason: Updated Pics
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  22. #22

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Nick,

    Mock that baby up with the T-56 attached and you can figure out how long that pesky drive shaft needs to be.
    If the driveshaft is 10-to-14" then it will greatly reduce the angles at full droop and you can likely end up with no bind as well.
    Also, look at your pinion angle of your pumpkin (differential) to figure out at what angle you want your engine and transmission to sit at.
    Sorry to be a pain in the back of your front, but this drove me nuts because my pumpkin pointed down 2.0 degrees and my engine 2.0 degrees up.
    In the end I reworked a few things, shortened my lower control arms to 16 7/8" and moved the upper shocks back a bit to get all the angles perfect.
    My other ulterior motive was to better center the wheel within the wheel arch since the MK-4 rear wheel sits a bit aft of the wheel arch center-line.

    Steve

    Good Luck & Can't Wait To See Your Dream Come Together!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 05-01-2018 at 09:51 PM.

  23. #23

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    For a street car, the T56 is about the best transmission you can get. Good gear spread, smooth, strong, and inexpensive.

    But for a race car, not so much. It's big and bulky, and it's heavy. Even on the race track, you rarely use 5th, and never use 6th. You should really consider using a version of the T5. Smaller, lighter, and only 5 gears.

    Next winter, I'd like to pull the T56 out of my track car and replace it with a built T5 from Gordon. It will be smaller, and save me about 50-60 pounds. And I'll get a 5th gear that I can actually use.

    I know you want to add weight to meet a class requirement. But you can add as much ballast as you need, that's not hard at all. And you can add it wherever you want to get the balance of the car exactly where you want it. Got a little oversteer? Shift some weight to the rear. 53% on the right? Shift some weight to the left. It's an enviable problem to have.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    Member: www.MileHiCobraClub.com
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

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  25. #24
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Nick,

    Mock that baby up with the T-56 attached and you can figure out how long that pesky drive shaft needs to be.
    If the driveshaft is 10-to-14" then it will greatly reduce the angles at full droop and you can likely end up with no bind as well.
    Also, look at your pinion angle of your pumpkin (differential) to figure out at what angle you want your engine and transmission to sit at.
    Sorry to be a pain in the back of your front, but this drove me nuts because my pumpkin pointed down 2.0 degrees and my engine 2.0 degrees up.
    In the end I reworked a few things, shortened my lower control arms to 16 7/8" and moved the upper shocks back a bit to get all the angles perfect.
    My other ulterior motive was to better center the wheel within the wheel arch since the MK-4 rear wheel sits a bit aft of the wheel arch center-line.

    Steve

    Good Luck & Can't Wait To See Your Dream Come Together!
    This was an initial mockup based on measurements alone so I could order materials I need to make the pedestals. The trans will go in with it next time so I can finalize everything. Based on initial measurements I'll be around 10" from tailshaft to pinion flange. I may move it further forward and see what happens.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    For a street car, the T56 is about the best transmission you can get. Good gear spread, smooth, strong, and inexpensive.

    But for a race car, not so much. It's big and bulky, and it's heavy. Even on the race track, you rarely use 5th, and never use 6th. You should really consider using a version of the T5. Smaller, lighter, and only 5 gears.

    Next winter, I'd like to pull the T56 out of my track car and replace it with a built T5 from Gordon. It will be smaller, and save me about 50-60 pounds. And I'll get a 5th gear that I can actually use.

    I know you want to add weight to meet a class requirement. But you can add as much ballast as you need, that's not hard at all. And you can add it wherever you want to get the balance of the car exactly where you want it. Got a little oversteer? Shift some weight to the rear. 53% on the right? Shift some weight to the left. It's an enviable problem to have.
    I would consider something like a TKO600, but already have the T56 and I've built so many of them over the years it's nice to have some extra parts. Even being a racecar it's going to get some street miles including the possibility of doing One Lap of America. My other "racecar" is a 14.1:1 compression LS combo that sees street miles too. To me they're all street cars. So while being more of an afterthought, the overdrives wouldn't be a bad thing to retain since I'm not worried about losing weight.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  26. #25

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Thanks for the reply and I can't wait to see how you lay this sucker out.

  27. #26
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    It's been a few months since I've updated. Now that LS Fest is over and the rush on everyone else's projects, I've been able to get back on this beast. The pedal assemblies are in place and I managed to get a mockup trans to hang everything and fab some pedestals for the engine mounts. With the engine in place, I can put a straight edge across the frame rails and just barely contact the lowest point. It's as low as possible.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  28. #27

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    When Form Follows Function Things Just Seem To Turn Our Great!
    Looks Extremely Good & Extremely Simple!
    Told You I'd Be Watching!
    Good Luck!

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  30. #28
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Should be fun to watch. Subscribed.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

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  32. #29
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quick pic drop! Sheet metal mockup and drilling has begun. The engine bay and front end sheet metal are almost all complete. The cockpit is almost complete as well. I'll try to get more pics up soon.

    I've found one major PITA is the self tappers that were used to attach the sheet metal for shipping. Some areas won't be seen, which is fine. Others are very visible and really screw up my spacing (OCD trigger) so I get out the TIG to fill the hole in the aluminum and the chassis before re-drilling for a rivet.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

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  34. #30

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Glad you suffer from the OCD Gene because your car will turn out amazing because of it.
    Also, please keep posting pics so that I can muster up the courage to build one of these down the road.
    Until then, it's back writing tuition checks for Baby Go-Dad and swinging wrenches on my 85% completed Dark Side Dart MK-4.

    https://youtu.be/pI1y9UvANEM
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-30-2018 at 02:24 PM.

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    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    If you only knew how much I hate welding thin gauge aluminum. Most of my day to day fab work is chassis parts, turbo piping in stainless and aluminum, exhaust...things like that. I just don't practice sheet metal much so I don't have the patience for it.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  36. #32

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Nick,

    How well do you think a BBC with a Power Glide would fit?
    It could be the ultimate Street Drag Car that comes in a box.

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 11-30-2018 at 08:47 PM.

  37. #33
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Nick,

    How well do you think a BBC with a Power Glide would fit?
    It could be the ultimate Street Drag Car that comes in a box.

    Steve
    Not sure how well that would fit with a big block. It would be tight, but I'm sure it can be done. I'm not afraid to fab!

    That actually brings up a potential future project I've been considering. I think this chassis would make a great heads up drag car and I'm strongly considering doing it for some small tire class racing. I have in mind a small cubic inch single turbo lsx combo with a glide behind it. I could make 1,200-1,500 hp with ease. With my resources it wouldn't be an issue at all to get it down the track.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  38. #34

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I big inch SBC (Dart) and a Glide or Turbo 400 or maybe a Clutch-Assist G-Force 5-Speed would be a "Less Scary Option" for those of us who don't want to go that fast.

    While I'm 99% sure that I'll easily hit the 11's with my 383 MK-4, I'm equally sure that Gulfport Dragway will send me home since they abide by the IHRA rulebook.

    The Type-65 would keep those pesky safety folks off our collective backs which is why my old car was fitted with a 6 point bar.

    Good luck and I can't wait to see the other solid axel 6-Speed Factory Five hit the road.

    Just know that your car will be Way, Way, Way faster than mine will ever be.

    https://www.gforcetransmissions.com/productoverview.asp

    Good Luck Fellow Dark Sider!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 12-03-2018 at 11:35 AM.

  39. #35
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    I've been extra busy on customer projects and haven't had much time to update in here. While the heat in the shop is getting fixed, I figured now would be a good time to sit in the office and catch up on a few things. Most of the interior sheet metal is finished and we hung the body so I could start working things around that. I'd like to start fabricating headers soon as time allows (I even bought a new band saw at PRI for that job). I've also decided not to use the FFR side pipes as the pipe fitment in the flange is absolutely awful. I can only imagine how much power those would kill.

    A couple things I decided to change were brake lines and I modified the radiator duct. I decided to go with black coated AN hoses and bulkhead fittings for clutch and brake lines. All hung with billet P-clamps of course. I'll get pics of those later. The radiator duct I opened up holes to allow access to the control arm bolts so they can be serviced without removing any sheet metal. They interfered and wouldn't allow the sheet metal to sit flat anyway, so it seemed like a good idea. I'm still tossing around the idea of pitching the FFR radiator too. I'm not sure who produces it, but the quality leaves a lot to be desired.

    I think the next big step is going to be getting everything disassembled and getting the chassis to powder coat.

    I also started blocking some seams on the hood just to see how bad that would be. Thankfully not as bad as it looked. Though some of the panel alignment on the main body shell is so bad it'll require a lot of buildup and working to be respectable.
    Last edited by nskaats; 01-15-2019 at 10:32 AM.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

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  41. #36

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Fellow Dark Sider,

    How Long Did Your Driveshaft End Up Being?

    Steve

  42. #37
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    The birds eye view of the panels and the body sitting on the car is so helpful. It’s exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thank you for that shot!

    Why do you suspect FFR didn’t continue the panels down and cover the frame structure under the hood. Air flow? I am thinking about continueing and covering the frame structure entirely under the hood and extending the panels. What’s your thoughts?
    Last edited by P100DHG; 01-15-2019 at 02:58 PM.

  43. #38
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Fellow Dark Sider,

    How Long Did Your Driveshaft End Up Being?

    Steve
    I'm not sure off hand. I'll have to check for you but I think the length from tailshaft to flange is around 16.5-17"

    Quote Originally Posted by P100DHG View Post
    The birds eye view of the panels and the body sitting on the car is so helpful. It’s exactly what I’ve been looking for. Thank you for that shot!

    Why do you suspect FFR didn’t continue the panels down and cover the frame structure under the hood. Air flow? I am thinking about continueing and covering the frame structure entirely under the hood and extending the panels. What’s your thoughts?
    You're welcome. If you need any specific shots let me know and I'll try to get them. As far as the design side you'd have to talk to someone at FFR for that part.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  44. #39
    Senior Member smithtlw's Avatar
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    Awesome work. Thanks for sharing - I have an LS1/T56 slated for my genII coupe so I am watching closely. That corvette engine mount seems like a great way to go. It really simplifies the measuring.

    Todd

  45. #40

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by nskaats View Post
    I'll have to check for you but I think the length from tailshaft to flange is around 16.5-17"
    The lower control arms are 17 5/8" so your in and out movement of the yoke will be nearly non-existent!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 01-19-2019 at 07:05 AM.

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