How to Torque Front Hubs?

[Dlirium]

I know, it's probably been posted 1000 times, but YOU try searching for that info :-)

I'd sure appreciate any info on how best to torque the front hub spindle nut to the recommended 225-250 ft lbs per the manual. Cheater bar, clearly. But is it sort of like my grandfather used to tell me: "as tight as you can, then 1/4 more"? I assume some of you have come up with a good way...

Thanks for your help!!!

brent

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yeah, go to Autozone, Advance or one of the other big box discount parts stores and borrow the big 250+ pound torque wrench from their free loaner program.

Jeff

[BEAR-AvHistory]

I know, it's probably been posted 1000 times, but YOU try searching for that info :-)

I'd sure appreciate any info on how best to torque the front hub spindle nut to the recommended 225-250 ft lbs per the manual. Cheater bar, clearly. But is it sort of like my grandfather used to tell me: "as tight as you can, then 1/4 more"? I assume some of you have come up with a good way...

Thanks for your help!!!

brent

You really want to torque this bolt as 225-250lbs is not a tight then some more type of connection.

A wrench in this torque range will give you more then enough leverage to get it done without any guesswork.

[NAZ]

Torque wrench. There is no way to "feel" the proper torque -- use the correct tool on this critical nut.

[initiator]

250 lb-ft torque wrench is one of the big boy toys I bought specific for this build. $50-60 for low-end, $125-150 for decent quality, or $300+ for Snap-on. You don't want to be cutting corners on anything wheel or brake related.

[doddmoore]

I can add that to the list of tools I don't have but will need. It's hovering somewhere around 100 right now. *sigh*

[Papa]

No cheater bars! Torque wrenches are designed to give accurate readings with the length of the wrench factored in. You should not shorten or extend that length.

[Yama-Bro]

I borrowed a torque wench from my local Oreily Auto Parts using their loaner tool program. They also had the wheel hub nut socket to do the job. Don't forget to get that tool as well, if you don't already have one.

[Gumball]

Bought a used Snap-On version of the large torque wrench on eBay a few years back. There are good examples out there in the $175 - $200 range. Just make sure that it either has a recent recalibration certificate or you have it done once you buy the wrench.

[Dlirium]

Thanks All - these replies are EXTREMELY helpful! I really appreciate all the input, I will either borrow or buy the torque wrench and do it right!!

Thanks again
brent

[edwardb]

No cheater bars! Torque wrenches are designed to give accurate readings with the length of the wrench factored in. You should not shorten or extend that length.

Actually, that's not true if you're putting an extension on the handle. The mechanism measuring the torque (mechanical, electronic, whatever) is in the head of the wrench and doesn't know how long the handle is, where you're grabbing it, etc. It's just measuring the force at the socket itself. Many mfg's do recommend against using a cheater bar. Probably afraid of damaging the wrench, exceeding the capacity, etc. With a long cheater bar, it is possible to go right past the desired torque, miss the click, whatever. But doesn't change the function of the torque wrench itself. Now put some kind of offset adapter on the socket itself, like a crow's foot, and then things change. There are conversion charts, but I've avoided using those.

I've personally not had very good luck with the tool loaner program and parts stores around me. All the big names and I've tried several. I've found the tools are often pretty worn and not in great shape. Hassle of driving back and forth, running your credit card and then waiting for the credit when it's returned, etc. For really big ticket items maybe used only once, I guess. But I've generally used these "opportunities" to add to my tool collection. I found a middle of the road HD torque wrench at our local tool store. Not Snap-On quality, but not HF either. I think it was around $100. Also picked up the required sockets. If you have IRS, there's a big nut on that axle too. Of course a different size than the front spindle. I've never had any trouble getting the fronts to the required torque by orienting the wrench so I'm pushing down and putting my weight behind it. (No comments...) The IRS nuts are a little harder because the CV axle is free to turn. I wait until the wheel/tire is mounted and the chassis is on the ground with the e-brake on. That seems to work OK. For either, I haven't needed to use a cheater bar.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...The mechanism measuring the torque (mechanical, electronic, whatever) is in the head of the wrench and doesn't know how long the handle is, where you're grabbing it, etc...

Exactly! Same way it doesn't know whether the person grabbing it weighs 100 pounds or 300!

Jeff

[Papa]

Actually, that's not true if you're putting an extension on the handle. The mechanism measuring the torque (mechanical, electronic, whatever) is in the head of the wrench and doesn't know how long the handle is, where you're grabbing it, etc. It's just measuring the force at the socket itself. Many mfg's do recommend against using a cheater bar. Probably afraid of damaging the wrench, exceeding the capacity, etc. With a long cheater bar, it is possible to go right past the desired torque, miss the click, whatever. But doesn't change the function of the torque wrench itself. Now put some kind of offset adapter on the socket itself, like a crow's foot, and then things change. There are conversion charts, but I've avoided using those.

I've personally not had very good luck with the tool loaner program and parts stores around me. All the big names and I've tried several. I've found the tools are often pretty worn and not in great shape. Hassle of driving back and forth, running your credit card and then waiting for the credit when it's returned, etc. For really big ticket items maybe used only once, I guess. But I've generally used these "opportunities" to add to my tool collection. I found a middle of the road HD torque wrench out our local tool store. Not Snap-On quality, but not HF either. I think it was around $100. Also picked up the required sockets. If you have IRS, there's a big nut on that axle too. Of course a different size than the front spindle. I've never had any trouble getting the fronts to the required torque by orienting the wrench so I'm pushing down and putting my weight behind it. (No comments...) The IRS nuts are a little harder because the CV axle is free to turn. I wait until the wheel/tire is mounted and the chassis is on the ground with the e-brake on. That seems to work OK. For either, I haven't needed to use a cheater bar.

Lots of debate on the subject of "proper" leverage when using a torque wrench. Let's just leave it at that. The important thing is to get the hub nut torqed; don't swag it.

[Cyclotic]

Have a look at the CDI torque wrench, model 2503mfrm. It's made by Snap-On. I've had one for several years. the calibration has not drifted at all. It's also good for torquing lug nuts, head bolts, etc., so you will get lots of use out of it.

Never use a torque wrench to remove stuck nuts and bolts.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Agree with edwardb its worthwhile to buy a wrench. I use it all the time for wheel changes. The long handle make lug-nut torquing very easy.

[BB767]

I know it’s the luck of the draw but I had an excellent experience with my local Auto Zone.

Ordered the torque wrench in the morning, it was at the store that afternoon. It was big and beautiful! Looked like brand new aluminum, silver and gray, over 3 feet long, 3/4 drive. I would have liked to own it but $350 for one use was not justified. I could have tourqued that nut with one hand! Did have to purchase the socket but the price was reasonable and compensated for the free use of the wrench.

Just my two cents worth, it is possible to get a high quality loaner!

[dhuff]

A bar type torque wrench is sensitive to how you hold the handle, the force must go through the pivot in the center of the handle without the handle rotating and applying force at its edges.

pACE3-18611042enh-z7.jpg

A clicker type torque wrench does not care how you pull on the handle.

[shark92651]

Are the loaner torque wrenches calibrated regularly? That is what I would be worried about.

[Dave Howard]

There's only one way to properly torque the front hubs. Acquire a torque wrench that's rated for the torque you want to achieve. Acquire the proper sized socket. Righty tighty and boom. Done. For the northern crowd, these thing come on sale at Canadian Tire all the time. And for the number of times you're going to use it, you don't need Snap on quality.

Couple of things to be aware of when using a cheater. Most cheaters consist of a piece of pipe. Unless you're an engineer and have done some research, you don't know what the strength limits are of the pipe or the handle of the tool you are cheating. I've seen guys exceed the limits of both. On one occasion, the guy put a cheater on a valve wheel wrench. The wrench handle broke off while trying to break the valve free. Unfortunately, he was pulling toward himself. the cheater caught him on the chin and he knocked himself cold. Talk about a boatload of paperwork.

[Avalanche325]

Are the loaner torque wrenches calibrated regularly? That is what I would be worried about.

I really wouldn't worry about that. Reality is that you just need to be in the ballpark. There is nothing on a car that has a dead nuts torque requirement. It needs to be somewhere in a range. Any adjustable torque wrench, including high-end brands like Snap-on, are not perfect. They are all "in the ballpark" instruments. Extreme accuracy torque wrenches do ONE measurement only. You have a different wrench for every single torque level.

The other good thing is that when you borrow one, it will likely hardly ever have been used. I have had a couple loaner tools from my local Advance, and I was the first ever user.

A torque wrench that can do 250ft-lbs is going to be a rare-use item for 99% of the people here.

[CraigS]

I think that getting perfect torque is getting overblown here. The nut tightens the inner races of the bearings until they come into contact w/ each other. The there is no more movement. There needs to be enough torque to keep those races together under side loads generated in corners. The torque level needs to be less than whatever it would take to strip the threads. Between those two numbers there is a pretty wide range. If you weight 125# and have a two foot breaker bar, stand on the end of the bar. Done. Also bearing grease on the threads will help reduce torque loss through friction. A painted witness mark on the nut and the end of the axle shaft can't hurt to add confidence that nothing is moving in use.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Anecdotal comment regarding calibration; when I worked in the engineering lab for General Motors the government contract for the military test work we were performing specified that all of the torque wrenches had to be calibrated annually. Over 12 years, using probably more than 50 wrenches ranging from little single digit inch pounds to 6 foot long 1" drive 900 foot pound monsters I don't recall anything ever being out more than 2% and most never changed at all. As Craig and Avalanche mentioned most times in automotive use you'll see torque specs that are in a range that may spread as much as 10% high to low.

Jeff

[Dlirium]

Again, thanks all for the advice! Turns out a local FF Roadster builder has a torque wrench that goes to 250 that he graciously is allowing me to borrow, so I think it will go well. Good call on the auto-store borrow programs, I'll keep that in mind for other tools I may need "once"!

Awesome having such a great community of builders!

brent

[jroberts]

What about Harbor Freight torque wrench's? I see them on sale for $10. Are they worth it or dangerous?

[Jdav]

What about Harbor Freight torque wrench's? I see them on sale for $10. Are they worth it or dangerous?

I used them for my build with no issues. My father in-law (an engineer for diesel engine pistons) loves them and said he had guys in his shop compare calibration on his HF ones vs their expensive ones and HF was just as good.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Just a quick thought. Remember to unload the settings when you are done with the wrench.

[Avalanche325]

What about Harbor Freight torque wrench's? I see them on sale for $10. Are they worth it or dangerous?

I am not much of a HF fan. But there are some cases where their stuff is good enough or just as good as a name brand. Their torque wrenches are fine. I read dozens of reviews. People did accuracy comparisons with proper measuring equipment or sent them off for calibration. They are fine. One thing you should do for all adjustable torque wrenches is "let them down" after use. That means just turn the adjuster to 0.

Have you ever looked at HF digital calipers, and the Craftsman version? They are the exact same thing, different sticker.

[Avalanche325]

Just a quick thought. Remember to unload the settings when you are done with the wrench.

Oops. You beat me to it.