Tool time

[Fabb]

Well, my kit is arriving this weekend, and I am getting all the necessary tools and such. I already have several key tools, but wanted to see if folks have compiled the list and links to tools that are most valuable for building.

At some point reading thru here, I also saw it recommended to get a good quality tap and die set, so looking for recommendations. Metric or SAE? Particular brand for this? Also open to other key tool suggestions.

Thanks
-B

[wareaglescott]

When you are making your own hole you can make the decision Metric or SAE. I choose SAE

I like the low profile extended reach jack from Harbour Freight. Found out real quick at ride height a normal rolling jack will not work

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...ump-62310.html

Pneumatic rivet gun is a must have in my book as well.
Congrats on the arrival of your kit.

[RoadRacer]

See list here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ighlight=tools

I've used both metric and imperial tap/die sets so far - many seem to need running through to clean up. But I didnt get "good quality" - the normal HF worked well enough.

[Murd]

Clecos and cleco pliers. I think I have 100 1/8 and 10 3/16 but could have used more 1/8 for sure.

[bil1024]

A good cordless drill if you don't already have one with quality bits

[Al_C]

Dremel tool. Right angle for your drill driver like this one: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-R...RA50/203867866. both are very, very useful.

[JoeAIII]

Get a bulk pack of quality 1/8" drill bits, you will find they start to get dull and not make round holes, catch, or walk after a few panels each.
Do you have the f5 front hubs? Buy or borrow the socket for the spindle nut, and a 250lb torque wrench

[Jdav]

I was surprised as to how few new tools are needed to build one of these cars.
I believe that this is all I bought new:
hand rivet gun
clecos & cleco pliers
low profile long reach jack
jack stands
some specific socket sizes
torque wrenches
right angle drill adapter

I also bought harbor freight most of the time as a lot of these things you'll only use a handful of times. You can, of course, buy better quality, easier (pneumatic) and/or more specific tools, but I've found you can get by with these basics.

[DadofThree]

Get a bulk pack of quality 1/8" drill bits, you will find they start to get dull and not make round holes, catch, or walk after a few panels each.

Ordering #30 drill bits will make the rivet insertion easier. You can find them at mcmaster in short lengths (my preference).
https://www.mcmaster.com/#2896a543/=1c6l32x
https://www.mcmaster.com/#3584a193/=1c6l2l9
drop of 3in1 oil extends the life of the bits. Also, step drill bits are very handy. I got a pack from HF, and it's been good.

As for tools, some of the best tools I purchased where quailty wire strippers and wratchet crimpers. clecos are a HUGE help. I agree about the dremel, I use mine all the time.

But the BIGGEST help for me was taking the time to put my tools back at the end of the day. After a few months of this, I knew where every tool was when I needed it. I'll be it has saved me a full day of looking for tools over the 2.5 years of my build. Although there are more added in the drawers now, they are still categorized in the same spots and drawers. Even the remote control is still in the same place.

https://buildacobra.blogspot.com/201...organized.html

[AC Bill]

A punch spring tool was a great investment. Used to prevent drill bit wandering.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Comments on some of the replies and recommendations.

Pneumatic riveter---some guys love 'em, I don't. I bought one when I began my first car and used it for maybe 50% of the rivets. Second car I used it for about 10% (mostly I think just to see if my opinion had changed). Every one since has been done by hand. IMO, the pneumatic is bulky and cumbersome, it's a pain to drag the hose around and I like to seat the rivet and feel it pull by hand. I wound up giving it to a new builder who was going to buy one.

Drill bits---Plain ol' black oxide, no fancy cobalt or titanium. Use #30 rather than 1/8". Buy a Drill doctor and use it often...it will pay for itself.

Dremel---Absolutely! Get a quick change cut off wheel arbor and a big pack of reinforced wheels bacause you'll probably use that more than anything else.

Cordless drill and impact driver---Again, absolutely. Pick up 1/4" and 3/8" socket adapters and you'll rarely use a ratchet again!

Clecos---I've got 50 or so which works fine for me. You don't have to fill every hole but some guys like to so if it makes ya' happy go ahead!

Strippers/crimpers---I'll go for inexpensive tools on a lot of things but as Dad of Three Dave said, don't cheap out on these.

Lots more but that's a start!

Jeff

[Paparazzi]

A lift. You'll probably want one eventually and when you do, you'll regret not having had it during the build. I went hydraulic scissor lift, but clearly many options and everyone has their opinion.

[Clover]

Why did you have to go and say a lift? I had just decided that I did not really need one, even if I want one. I had just convinced myself that they are pretty expense, plus take up garage space. My wife is not upset with me yet but I swear you guys are trying to get me in the doghouse sometimes. Your avatar is even like the little guy on my shoulder that keeps telling me I "need" more power.

[flynntuna]

Why did you have to go and say a lift? I had just decided that I did not really need one, even if I want one. I had just convinced myself that they are pretty expense, plus take up garage space. My wife is not upset with me yet but I swear you guys are trying to get me in the doghouse sometimes. Your avatar is even like the little guy on my shoulder that keeps telling me I "need" more power.

Then you definitely don't want to see this lift...

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/spe...fts/sp-7x.aspx

[Paparazzi]

Why did you have to go and say a lift? I had just decided that I did not really need one, even if I want one. I had just convinced myself that they are pretty expense, plus take up garage space. My wife is not upset with me yet but I swear you guys are trying to get me in the doghouse sometimes. Your avatar is even like the little guy on my shoulder that keeps telling me I "need" more power.

Mine was from Home Depot - a Dannmar. Free delivery to the local branch, then a rental truck to bring it home. As said, my only regret is waiting until I'd finished my build!

Plenty of access from below and stows out of the way by parking over the top of it - it does need some lumber underneath to clear the mechanism, but it's not as obtrusive as a post lift if you're looking for high WAF. (Wife Acceptance Factor)

Pictures and the obligatory 'unboxing' on my blog.

Update: I've since removed the yellow 'arms' from the lift as the lift points line up perfectly with the car's rails. Just a block of 2x4 under each to protect the paint.

[Avalanche325]

I was actually surprised how little I was under the car during the build. Next house will have a lift though.

A couple things not mentioned:
Swivel head rivet gun. When you need it, nothing else will do
Rivnut tool - HF holds up fine. Refills from McMaster Carr.
Hole saws. I remember making several runs to Home Depot to get the right size during the build.
Tubing bender and flare tools. You don't have to go too expensive, unless you are doing stainless, but don't go too cheap either.
Torque wrench. Believe it or not, the HF special is fine. There are dozens of tests out there, and it is more then accurate enough for automotive work.

If I do another build, the first thing I am going to buy is a combination disc / belt sander.
There is also a little jig saw table that my friend has. It was awesome for cutting aluminum.

[phileas_fogg]

Then you definitely don't want to see this lift...

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/spe...fts/sp-7x.aspx

DAMMIT man! You're killing me...

[Clover]

How much is the lift? It seems to want me to put in my contact info to get the price which drives me nuts. I wish companies understood that when they try to get my contact info before giving me all the pertinent info, that I will just never have all the pertinent info and will have eliminated the company as a possibility as a result. They are not helping their sales team by doing this, they are costing their sales team opportunities. In the past I worked at a company that would ask for information to get a 30 day free trial. This was about 8 years ago but we used to track how many people got that far and how many actually filled out the form for free access. We were at only 12-18% of people who got to that page would give their contact info and they would get one month free. I bet this place has an even lower rate to get a price on a lift where the market has tons of options with prices.

[edwardb]

How much is the lift? It seems to want me to put in my contact info to get the price which drives me nuts. I wish companies understood that when they try to get my contact info before giving me all the pertinent info, that I will just never have all the pertinent info and will have eliminated the company as a possibility as a result. They are not helping their sales team by doing this, they are costing their sales team opportunities. In the past I worked at a company that would ask for information to get a 30 day free trial. This was about 8 years ago but we used to track how many people got that far and how many actually filled out the form for free access. We were at only 12-18% of people who got to that page would give their contact info and they would get one month free. I bet this place has an even lower rate to get a price on a lift where the market has tons of options with prices.

Bendpaks are sold through multiple channels. Just Google the model number and you'll find lots of choices. I had a Danmar MaxJax 2-post for a couple builds. Now have a new model MX-6 which seems to have some nice improvements. Bought mine from Costco of all places. It's a great lift option if you have normal garage height ceilings. With our new house and higher ceiling, sold the MaxJax and now have a full size Bendpak XPR-10S-LP 2-post. Bought that one through Summit Racing. Everyone's price was about the same, and usually are direct ship from the mfg anyway. Summit did a good job with the order and delivery. Couple buddies helped me stand it up and did the rest myself. Using it now for the Gen 3 Coupe build and it's awesome.

Until you've done one of these builds with a lift, you probably don't know what you're missing. It's not just about being able to get underneath, although that's obviously a big deal. It's almost more about always being able to put the work up where it's comfortable to work on. I have a little bit of a sensitive back. Can tweak it for seemingly no reason. Not bending over working all the time has helped a bunch.

The Garage Journal forum has a bunch of reviews and installation threads for lifts.

[CraigS]

I would not bother w/ a tap and die set. You will only need 3-4 sizes of taps, a tap handle, and probably no dies. I typed 'need' but that isn't even correct. Maybe 'want' would be more accurate. There are usually other ways to attach things and the frame tubing wall thicknesses aren't that great anyway.

[sbhunter]

I bought my 9000lb 2 post lift on Craigslist for $900 from a retired mechanic years ago. I was able to see it work before cash changed hands. Having said that, for this project I built my chassis dolly so the bottom of the frame of the car is 18” of the ground. Almost everything I’ve done so far has been from a standing position or sitting in a chair. My lift gets used too much for DD’s to tie it up for months. I guess I have too many well used vehicles, kids, and wives. Wait, not wives, that would be illegal and expensive, just one of those and I won’t describe her as well used either.

[JJ in Cbus]

I can agree with most of the suggestions mentioned above for a straight build. It was all the modifications and customizations that I started accumulating new tools. Sheet metal brake, Combo belt/disk sander, and the best of all was the port o band saw that I made a stand for. These tools were great for making clean cuts and bends and the sander was great for cleaning up the brackets that I made.

Band Saw.jpg

[AC Bill]

A Multi-step drill bit was very useful.

[BDHoneyman]

Some tools that I use regularly that have not been mentioned:

A 6" steel ruler (e.g.., Empire)-- more convenient than a tape measure
A deburring countersink (I bought the Naga kit NG9200). You'll need to deburr all holes before riveting for a proper set.
A rivet spacing tool (e.g., from Breeze: http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=552)

Less often used but critical at some points-- snapring pliers (e.g., from Lisle: LIL-49200)

-Bruce

[Fixit]

I'll agree w/ most of the above (even though I haven't even "turned a screw" on my kit yet - it's still in MA!).. but what I've gleaned from the other builders on here is this: This endeavor isn't "Plug-n-Play". You will have to fabricate, modify, and make some parts... this is assuming that you have a decent toolkit of wrenches, ratchets/sockets, and other stuff...that said:

My experiences with other builds or restorations have netted some must-have's or go-to tools...

Basic Shop Stuff...
- A way of getting the car SAFELY high enough to work underneath, that allows some serious tugging/pulling/torque'ing
- LIGHT, both in your shop/workspace & a portable... a very bright SMALL dropcord light (LED). (Something that won't give you a 2nd-deg burn when it unhooks and falls on your neck)
- A good creeper and stool. (or a combo-unit that folds/unfolds into both)
- Drip Pan / Cookie Sheet(s)
- A good, solid, bolted to the wall "ain't gonna move" workbench
- A 6" or bigger vise - securely bolted to the above workbench
- A supply of old rags/T-shirts, or paper towels
- Safety Glasses
- Fire Extinguisher
- Notepads & pencils

Shop Must Have's:
- A bench grinder - one side a fine-grit stone, the other a wire wheel
- A benchtop drillpress - nothing fancy, just a rig where you can repeatedly drill 1000+ holes, or chuck up a polishing bonnet/wheel
- A twist drill index - 1/16 thru 1/2 inch (reduced shank if your press/drill is 3/8")
- A "Uni-bits"/step-drills (Buy smart... don't get the all-in-one, buy two/several - one is zero to about 1/2", the other 1/2" to 1"+... you get finer "steps" between)
- A supply of sacrificial backing media - chunks of 2x4, whatever. Something to drill into, shim up with, whatever
- Clamps(!) A readily available supply of C-clamps, spring clamps, binder clips, ratchet/squeeze clamps, rubber bands...
- Straight-edges/scale/rulers... 6", 1-foot, and 3-foot metal. Invaluable for marking, scribing, scoring.
- Adjustable "combo-square" ruler - 6" and 12 or 18 inch.

Semi-Specialty (hand tools)
- Tubing wrenches. An inexpensive kit of the common sizes... SAE & Metric. You won't use them enough to justify "pro" level, but "hobbyist" level will save your bacon.
- Multi-size tubing bender - again not total cheapo, but something that'll give good results.
- DVM (Digital Volt Meter). You don't have to pop for a Fluke, just a good meter that has AC/DC volts, Impedance, and a continuity beep function. Probes with alligator clips are a bonus.
- GOOD electrical crimpers. Not the junk tool supplied with a $10.99 assortment pack of terminals.
- GOOD electrical wire-stripper. A dedicated tool for stripping wire - not a "Combo-tool" that is for both stripping and crimping.
- Files... A decent kit of rat-tail, Mill, and ******* cut files
- GOOD hacksaw - not the $4.99 Ouija-board hit-n-miss version - a good one, with a 32-TPI blade
- A "Mini-Hacksaw" blade holder - it's a little plastic doodad that clamps a blade into a hand-held/tight-spot holder.
- Tap & Die set - Nowadays you need two... SAE & Metric - from #6 to 1/2" SAE (and Metric equiv).
- Pop Rivet tool
- "Nut-Sert" tool
- Snap Ring plier (inside & outside version)


Now for the serious stuff...
Specialty Stuff (Hand-Tools):
- Inch & Foot Pound torque wrenches
- Tubing Flare kit
- Anything "Air"... Impact, ratchet, die-grinder, cut-off, Nibbler, Shear, Riveter...

Specialty Stuff (shop): (No, I don't have some of this, but I know guys who do!)
- Compressed Air - (If it won't supply 15cfm@95+psi it's not big enough.)
- Blast Cabinet
- Parts Washer Cabinet
- Metal-cutting bandsaw
- Metal bending brakes & shears
- English Wheel
- Stretchers & Shrinkers
- Bench lathe & tooling
- Bench mill & tooling
- Vehicle Lift
- Tire Machine
- Tire/Wheel Balancer

Now that you're scared to death... this is where the forum takes hold. Reach out to others in your area, and make a friend. Trust me... there are others that are much more terminally addicted to this goofy hobby than you, and have acquired the tools! Most of them (being good gear-heads) will gladly help another to be an addict!

[edwardb]

I'll agree w/ most of the above (even though I haven't even "turned a screw" on my kit yet - it's still in MA!).. but what I've gleaned from the other builders on here is this: This endeavor isn't "Plug-n-Play". You will have to fabricate, modify, and make some parts...

At the risk of stating the obvious, IMO this always the case. In my experience, how plug and play the build is depends on decisions made by the builder. At their best, I agree these builds aren't like assembling a big Erector set. There will be some challenges and "adjustments" required along the way. But a stock build, using the instructions and parts supplied by Factory Five, and using the configurations supported by Factory Five (an important caveat) can give a very good result with a pretty basic set of standard mechanics tools. Much of the bandwidth of this forum seems to be about mods, changes, customizations, non-standard part combinations, etc. (and I'm a contributor, I know) so it would be easy, especially for a first time builder, to get the impression these changes are mandatory. For the most part, they're not. They represent personal choice. Bottom line, how much you deviate from the stock design and build is going to affect what tools you may need. Especially when you start talking big boy fabrication tools like brakes, shears, English wheel, lathe, mill, etc.

[Boydster]

List of must have tools... I think most have been mentioned already. Depends on what you wanna do and how ingenious you are with the tools you have.

There's so many different things you get into on a project like this. I would suggest some good quality wiring strippers, crimpers and soldering iron for doing electrical. Tubing bender and flaring tool for brake and fuel lines. Dependable cordless drill with a spare battery for EVERYTHING... I have a 5 year old Ryobi that has performed flawlessly for the entire build, from #30 holes in aluminum to 3/8 holes in stainless roll bars to sanding drums for the body to carbide bits to act as a die grinder.

A few things that have really helped along the way, things I use all the time... several small steel rulers, one pref with a 90*. A good low height jack. Good lighting. Some type of hole deburring tool (can even use a larger drill bit, just use it). I am glad I got an air pop-riveter. Never got an angle head puller.

I bought a lot of things I didnt HAVE to have just to build, but they were tools that I could use later. Never had a drill press before, but picked up one on sale at Sears and it has been very nice to have. Invested in the FasTrax alignment tools but borrowed a set of turn plates. Must? Not at all.

It's surprising how little specialized stuff you really need to build one of these. I dont even have a bench grinder... a well stocked mechanics garage should do quite nicely with only a few additional items needed.

[Murd]

Something I don’t think has been mentioned are weatherpack connectors and the special crimping tool to go with them. Very glad I used these for all my wiring. I got the kit from Michael Everson and bought a bunch more connectors locally once I knew what I needed.

[FritoBandito]

My favorite tool of my build
1460597718_----20160410-124812798.jpg
Description from my website:

The clecos, rivets, drill bits, punch, rivet spacer, pliers, are all related fiddly tools and I decided I wanted them all in organized and in one portable container while I worked. This caddy worked great. One side was for the rivets I was working with as well as rulers, markers, and the rivet gun. The other side was separated into two spaces for the two different size clecos. I had more 1/8" clecos so they got the larger space which made room for the cleco pliers. My jobber drill bits set in the little wells on either end of the handle. Soo much better than drilling and riveting hardware and tools laying all over the damn place.

Mario
__________________
FFR MKIV #7608 Complete kit w/IRS
Dart 427 w/Pro 1 CNC 210cc heads, 490rwhp/459rwtq
http://www.mycobra.build #7608 Graduation Thread

[Fixit]

Yeah, the machine tools are a bit much for the hobbyist, but awhile ago I had the chance to visit a local guy Don. This guy's shop is a fabricator's dream.
He's building a car of his own design, using two Inline-6 Supra engines mated to a V12 crankcase he designed and made. When I saw it the car was in plywood bucks and he was rolling the sheet aluminum.
npuz8tfgec7aqospjw46.png