Hydraulic clutch

[John T]

Does this change involve modification of frame. I prefer not to have to do any welding. Also, what is the advantage if any? And I would probably appreciate a guess as to how much more expense?

Thanks again I appreciate you help.

[edwardb]

Does this change involve modification of frame. I prefer not to have to do any welding. Also, what is the advantage if any? And I would probably appreciate a guess as to how much more expense?

Thanks again I appreciate you help.

shark92651 pretty much covered it showing the available options. With one big caveat. Changing to a hydraulic clutch is a pretty easy mod if you're Mk4 is built with the Wilwood pedal box. No welding required. Just bring money.

The Wilwood pedal box is actually designed to use a hydraulic clutch, so it's a simple bolt in of the additional master cylinder on that side. Factory Five supplies some custom parts they designed to convert it to a cable driven setup, which you wouldn't use. The external slave setup pictured is from Mike Forte, and is a common setup when going hydraulic. He has various versions depending on the transmission you're planning to use. You can call him for details and price for your specific configuration. I've installed a couple of these and they're pretty straightforward. The internal hydraulic throw-out bearing isn't nearly as common for these builds, although quite common in the industry. The current Mustang uses one, for example. The concern with the internal throw-out bearing is that if it fails or needs to be serviced, the transmission needs to be removed. Same as replacing the clutch. For a Roadster, it's possible but not easy. Some just pull the whole engine/transmission assembly. I'm going to try that same Tilton internal hydraulic throw-out bearing on my current Gen 3 Coupe build. It's simpler and cheaper than the external slave setup and the Tilton part is supposed to be very high quality. But the new Coupe chassis would make getting the transmission in/out a little easier, even though I really hope that's not necessary. To say the least.

If you're planning to do a Mustang pedal box, not so easy to add a hydraulic clutch. They're only made for cable drive setups. As I understand, there are aftermarket kits and ways to install, but I personally have no experience with them so can't offer anything else.

Clutch cable over hydraulic is often discussed, but doesn't always have a clear-cut answer. The current Factory Five adaptation (compared to the much less successful previous version), a genuine Ford branded cable (important, there are differences), and proper routing of the cable that is direct and away from heat sources (like headers) works fine. A hydraulic setup solves any issues with routing the cable, and in theory should have less mechanical drag and be smoother to operate and with potentially less effort. But there are other variables, especially which clutch you choose, so it's not easy to cite comparisons.

[John T]

shark92651 pretty much covered it showing the available options. With one big caveat. Changing to a hydraulic clutch is a pretty easy mod if you're Mk4 is built with the Wilwood pedal box. No welding required. Just bring money.

The Wilwood pedal box is actually designed to use a hydraulic clutch, so it's a simple bolt in of the additional master cylinder on that side. Factory Five supplies some custom parts they designed to convert it to a cable driven setup, which you wouldn't use. The external slave setup pictured is from Mike Forte, and is a common setup when going hydraulic. He has various versions depending on the transmission you're planning to use. You can call him for details and price for your specific configuration. I've installed a couple of these and they're pretty straightforward. The internal hydraulic throw-out bearing isn't nearly as common for these builds, although quite common in the industry. The current Mustang uses one, for example. The concern with the internal throw-out bearing is that if it fails or needs to be serviced, the transmission needs to be removed. Same as replacing the clutch. For a Roadster, it's possible but not easy. Some just pull the whole engine/transmission assembly. I'm going to try that same Tilton internal hydraulic throw-out bearing on my current Gen 3 Coupe build. It's simpler and cheaper than the external slave setup and the Tilton part is supposed to be very high quality. But the new Coupe chassis would make getting the transmission in/out a little easier, even though I really hope that's not necessary. To say the least.

If you're planning to do a Mustang pedal box, not so easy to add a hydraulic clutch. They're only made for cable drive setups. As I understand, there are aftermarket kits and ways to install, but I personally have no experience with them so can't offer anything else.

Clutch cable over hydraulic is often discussed, but doesn't always have a clear-cut answer. The current Factory Five adaptation (compared to the much less successful previous version), a genuine Ford branded cable (important, there are differences), and proper routing of the cable that is direct and away from heat sources (like headers) works fine. A hydraulic setup solves any issues with routing the cable, and in theory should have less mechanical drag and be smoother to operate and with potentially less effort. But there are other variables, especially which clutch you choose, so it's not easy to cite comparisons.

Thanks, as you can tell I am a novice at this build. You input is very helpful.