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Thread: FF 33' Stage 1 Build Ideas and Suggestions

  1. #1
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    FF 33' Stage 1 Build Ideas and Suggestions

    Starting my 33 Stage 1 build

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    Hello FF Guys, Im Scott and this is my first kit project of any kind. Im extremely excited to get started and I should be getting the stage 1 in 5 to 6 weeks. I went with 3-Link rear suspension and MoserMoser 8.8” 3-Link Solid rear axle from FF. Powder coated chassis. I didn't upgrade the brakes to Wilwood though. The only thing Im still having issues with deciding is the engine. I want power but I don't want to not being able to hear my passenger while driving. Im thinking a 302 that may push 370 HP or a 347 Stroker. Any suggestions?

  3. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Quiet power? Go with a turbocharged platform. Turbos muffle the exhaust note and add power. The Mustang 2.3L EcoBoost crate engine produces 310HP and Ford Performance will sell you one as a package with all the controls for $8,600 -- not a bad price for a modern engine with a low impact environmental footprint. It's the same modern technology used in 2015-2017 Mustangs -- OEM quiet with most mufflers and enough power to be sporty in a light car.

    But wait a minute -- you're building a HOT ROD. That's an in your face loud and obnoxious muscle car designed to scare little old ladies, yuppies, and snow flakes and get approving nods from hard-core bikers you pass on the mean streets. Why and the world would you want to build a HOT ROD that you could carry on a conversation with a passenger? You want a car that is so fast and awesome that non verbal communication is the norm -- big smile on your passenger's face is worth a thousand words. Next you'll want A/C and cruise control to go with your cup holders and power seats.

    Have fun with your build -- it's a blank canvas that you can build your way and nobody can say it's wrong. The SBF is a great platform that is supported as are several other engine choices. Since it sounds like you're looking for a "street rod" I'd suggest you settle on a transmission choice first -- auto or stick and then select an engine that complements your transmission category which will still give you a large array of choices to select from. If you have experience with one particular engine / trans package you might want to stay with that to simplify the build. Also, the further off the reservation you get with engine and trans choices the more effort and cost you can expect. The kit accommodates several engines and transmissions so you should find a combo that fits your needs. Be advised that no matter how quiet you make your engine the car is still going to have way more NVH than one built in Detroit. When you're done you may have a Hot Rod Lincoln but it will never ride like or be as quiet as a Continental.

  4. #4
    Senior Member stack's Avatar
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    302 fits nicely. you can alway buy better mufflers and quiet it down.

    stack
    FFR MKI Roadster FFR2202K Built in 2000 sold
    FFR Hot Rod #39 under construction

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    Thank you NAZ. Great input. I do know I want the TKO 500 or 600 Manual. The last motor I had was a 327 with a 2 speed power glide in my 67 Camaro. Definitely not even close to the power I wanted, plus it was an automatic. I sold it awhile ago. Is it hard to put in the Mustang 5.0 or Coyote motor? Its more modern of a engine and I looked at some build videos and I guess there is some modification to chassis? IF thats too much I may settle for a 347 Stroker. I need 400 + HP. Thanks guys. This is great.

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    The coyote goes in with no modifications if you use one of FFR’s supported transmissions.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    My wife had a 68 Camaro with that 327 & Glide combo -- it was a slug. I had a 67 Camaro with a 350 and 4-spd and that was not a slug but would be no match for a 2500lb hot rod with 400 HP so you should be pleased.

    Going with that much power in a light car I'd suggest you go with the TKO-600 for a stick. The TKO-500 has a much shorter 1st gear that you really won't need unless you plan to pull a big trailer or pull stumps out of the south 40. But be advised that these cars have very little room in the footbox area and some folks find it too tight with three pedals. So if your shoe size is larger than 11 better set in one before you commit to a three-pedal car. At lease you'll know going if you gotta wear ballet shoes to drive it. I work in old uniform jump boots and can barely work the pedals and I've widened the footbox area. It's tight even with driving shoes but way better than the FFR version. Some go with an auto just for that reason.

  8. #8
    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    Get the power you want and order the rear exit exhaust. Myself, I am going with rear exit exhaust for most of the time and also having a set of dumps welded in. That way I can go open exhaust when I want to. (All the time, when SWMBO is not in the car.)

    You might also want to update your profile with your city and state. Might find there are folks around you that might be willing to help you out.
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TDSapp View Post
    Get the power you want and order the rear exit exhaust. Myself, I am going with rear exit exhaust for most of the time and also having a set of dumps welded in. That way I can go open exhaust when I want to. (All the time, when SWMBO is not in the car.)

    You might also want to update your profile with your city and state. Might find there are folks around you that might be willing to help you out.
    thank you

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