Forte's

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Rear End Suspension

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    92
    Post Thanks / Like

    Rear End Suspension

    My 33 will be used mainly for street cruising and some burnout sessions. No track. I opted for the 3 link because I heard the 4 link hops when burning out? And whats the difficulty of install from 4 link to 3 link? Thanks guys.

  2. #2

    Moderator
    RoadRacer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Manor, TX
    Posts
    2,235
    Post Thanks / Like
    The 3 link does have some more complexity than the 4 link, but it's a better handling setup. There are a lot of conversations around the banana bracket - weld or bolt-on, whether to add the VPM brace http://vpmcobras.com/3linkbrace.htm.

    But at the same time, it's not so complicated an install that should dissuade anyone from using the 3 link. I didn't weld, and did add the brace, and it's just a weekend's work to fit.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    92
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thank you.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    92
    Post Thanks / Like
    Does the kit come with Banana bracket or the brace?

  5. #5

    Moderator
    RoadRacer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Manor, TX
    Posts
    2,235
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by 33PizzaGuy View Post
    Does the kit come with Banana bracket or the brace?
    If you order 3-link you get the banana bracket as a bolt-on. Some weld it. The brace is bought from VPM (see my earlier link). A very common add-on purchase. You can see both starting around here on my build page https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post278874
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    43
    Post Thanks / Like
    The recommend the VPM brace. I have been running it on my MKIII for years.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    205
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have finally installed the Vintage Performance Banana Brace due to concerns I had about the banana brace bending. The biggest part of the installation was the removal of the rubber bushing in the axle housing. I could not source the correct size puller at my local O'Reilly Store but the counter guy had a video showing how one guy removed a rubber bushing from an arm that was out of the car. The rubber he was working with was not nearly as tough as the rubber on my axle. He used a drill bit to drill many holes and the rubber came apart. My situation in the car was lot tougher even on a lift, but using a small bit (1/4 ") to start and then a 3/8 " bit I eventually got 70% of the rubber bushing out. I could move the center sleeve around. Then using a hole saw that would fit over the center sleeve I got the rubber out easily. Now the outer metal sleeve had to be removed, using an air chisel I got to the outboard lip and a couple of shots the sleeve came out! My advise to all who are installing a 3 link system, remove the bushing from the axle before it is in the car or before the body is on. This makes the whole installation of the VPM Brace a lot easier.

  8. #8
    Senior Member HVACMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Village Mills, Texas
    Posts
    674
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by donshapansky View Post
    I have finally installed the Vintage Performance Banana Brace due to concerns I had about the banana brace bending. The biggest part of the installation was the removal of the rubber bushing in the axle housing. I could not source the correct size puller at my local O'Reilly Store but the counter guy had a video showing how one guy removed a rubber bushing from an arm that was out of the car. The rubber he was working with was not nearly as tough as the rubber on my axle. He used a drill bit to drill many holes and the rubber came apart. My situation in the car was lot tougher even on a lift, but using a small bit (1/4 ") to start and then a 3/8 " bit I eventually got 70% of the rubber bushing out. I could move the center sleeve around. Then using a hole saw that would fit over the center sleeve I got the rubber out easily. Now the outer metal sleeve had to be removed, using an air chisel I got to the outboard lip and a couple of shots the sleeve came out! My advise to all who are installing a 3 link system, remove the bushing from the axle before it is in the car or before the body is on. This makes the whole installation of the VPM Brace a lot easier.
    Check this out if you have to remove one in the future. https://www.cjponyparts.com/maximum-...SABEgJoA_D_BwE
    33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

FFMetal

Visit our community sponsor