How do you epoxy a stud to the inside of the body?

[cmcintyre]

I see that this is a need in several places and a lot of guys have done it.

Got all my glassing stuff as recommended by Blwalker105, been reading up and videos on techniques for layups, fillets, cutting etc. But no luck on how to prepare the inside surfaces for, for instance, installing a threaded stud for the rear of the roof or B pillar, wire bundle standoffs, or the scoops for side sail vents to the intercooler.

Nor for how one prepares the stud itself, though I'm guessing just a washer. Or a body washer and nut to lock it, then one (two, three....?) impregnated layers of cloth....with a hole in it....after stippling the surface...but not completely cured...

You see what I mean.

Many thanks

[flynntuna]

3m 2216 b/a epoxy gets good reviews

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...?t-115222.html

http://www.hillas.com/Categories/Epo...SABEgLRkfD_BwE

Its expensive but these studs need to be reliable.

[michael everson]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#studs/=1ca0nr0
I use these with a strong epoxy. I also sand blast them first to give the epoxy a better bite
Mike

[Papa]

I bought this JB Weld epoxy to do mine (haven't used it yet):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the studs that Mike and others have recommended and intend to use them to install the side louvers.

Product information:

J-B Weld ClearWeld Syringe

ClearWeld is a quick setting, multipurpose two part epoxy that provides a strong and lasting bond on most surfaces including tile, most plastics, ceramic, glass, wood and metal. ClearWeld is designed to cure with a clear, transparent bond when used at thicknesses of less than 15 mil. ClearWeld has a 1:1 mixing ratio, sets in 5 minutes and cures in 1 hour. With a tensile strength of 4400 PSI, ClearWeld sets to a hard, permanent bond.

Use on:
Automotive
Brick
Ceramic
Cloth/Carpet
Concrete
Epoxy and Adhesives
Fiberglass
Glass
Plastic/Composite/PVC
And more

Instructions

1. Prepare: Clean surface area of dirt, grease, oil, paint, or loose debris. For best results use a detergent or degreaser to first clean the surface, then roughen surface with file or coarse sandpaper to provide the best repair.
2. Mix: After removing the replaceable cap, press down on plunger and squeeze equal amounts onto a disposable surface and mix thoroughly.
3. Apply: Apply with appropriate tool in an even coat, weld bead or extruded shape as needed.
4. Dry: Sets in 5 minutes. Cures in 1 hour. If temperature is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, then set time is longer.

J-B Weld is proudly made in the USA

[Hindsight]

I sand the surface with a sanding disc, then thicken epoxy with a thickener like fumed silica, then place the flanged stud, then add one to two layers of glass cloth over the base (cut a square of cloth a few inches larger than the base of the side, poke a hole through it for the stud, then lay it over and press it in so it wets out). Haven't had a single stud come loose when doing that, but I have had them come loose when not adding the glass cloth overlay.

[cmcintyre]

Thanks, guys. As always, good info...

[flynntuna]

Here's a thread from the roadster crowd...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...599#post331599

[Presto51]

https://www.mcmaster.com/#studs/=1ca0nr0
I use these with a strong epoxy. I also sand blast them first to give the epoxy a better bite
Mike

Like Mike said I've used these with 3M 8115 works great

https://www.mcmaster.com/#studs/=1dn2oe2 Adhesive-Mount Studs

Ron