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Thread: Do I need AC?

  1. #1
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Do I need AC?

    While paying off my kit I am looking at the options I'm going to use. I've done maintenance and upgrading on all my cars my whole life but I am so far out of the league of most guys here it blows me away. Your build threads are incredible to read through, and I wouldn't attempt to do this without you all and my Father-in-law, who has done three frame-off restorations.
    I've gone with the Complete kit as well as a Blueprint engine. From the build threads I have decided to go with manual brakes since I will be using Wilwood brakes and this car won't go on track but be more of a driver. I've also decided to use power steering, as most have said they wouldn't build without it. I'm stuck on AC though. I live in MS and it gets so hot down here I can't begin to explain. During the worst part of it we go from AC houses, to AC cars, into our AC jobs, spending as little time outside as possible. It's not the heat it's the humidity though and that is why I am contemplating AC in the car with the soft top. But I worry it would have not be pretty powerful to cool that cockpit with the windows zipped and the heat building up from both footboxes. Is it better to just go without and let the wind blow? Fellow builders from the Deep South what have you done?
    I know it will be MUCH easier to build it that way than add it later, so there is that to consider as well.
    This isn't something I have to decide before the kit comes, but it changes the cost of the engine and I am a planner. I need that spreadsheet to be accurate before I leap.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  2. #2
    Senior Member wareaglescott's Avatar
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    I am in Alabama. I have no top and did not do AC. I basically just drive early in the mornings in the summer. I heard mixed reviews on how effective the AC is with no top. Ultimately decided against. Hasn't really limited my driving. I think at the peak temp/humidities in the summer the car will be pretty hot regardless of AC or not. My best strategy is just not to drive it then. This thing certainly isn't a 365 day a year car. At least for me it isn't.
    MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
    Build Thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
    PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides

  3. #3
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    ...and the heat building up from both footboxes...
    I can't help you with the A/C in a Roadster. No experience there. But a comment about this quote. I don't know if that's from your experience, reading the forums, or just what. But done properly, this doesn't have to be an issue. Affects these cars wherever they're driven. But would be especially the case in your warmer climate. Heat will have two sources. Radiated heat and air infiltration.

    With well installed insulation on the footbox walls, you can minimize the radiated heat. My choice is Lizard Skin on the inside of the panels, which others have done also. That along with the carpet and I've never felt that heat through the footboxes was an issue. But there are lots of other product choices and forum bandwidth on the subject. Some also put panels on the engine compartment side. Lots of forum posts on that as well. But I personally haven't found it necessary.

    For air filtration, make sure you get the aluminum panels completely sealed, and also the gap between the body and the footbox panels. Lots of discussion about this as well. Any air from the engine compartment will feel like a blast furnace, especially on hot days, and overcome probably any other measures you take. One step further, some guys install fresh air vents into the footboxes.

    Whether you do A/C or not, look at all of this as part of your build plan.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-05-2018 at 09:17 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  4. #4
    Slow but Steady Gale K's Avatar
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    Need? No
    Awesome to have? Yes
    One of the last Mark II's, FFR complete date 5/8/04, delivery date 5/23/04, donor-'93 Mustang GT. Yes, that is me in my Avatar. Paint done by Da Bat! It looks killer! Drive it like you stole it...

  5. #5
    PLATNUM Supporting Member
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    In Florida it is a must IMO.

  6. #6
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    Drive in the cooler mornings & evenings. The car will be happier, and you will be, too!

  7. #7
    doddmoore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I can't help you with the A/C in a Roadster. No experience there. But a comment about this quote. I don't know if that's from your experience, reading the forums, or just what. But done properly, this doesn't have to be an issue..
    This is great to hear. I have only had one experience riding in a cobra and it was awful on my feet. I emailed my friend to find out why. No answer yet but I assume it was lacking in insulation or not sealed properly. Thanks so much, this eases my mind. I am hot natured and was really worried about that.
    "Doddmoore," Mitchell Moore on facebook, Follow Tonks347Cobra on Instagram
    MK IV Complete kit, SB Ford 347, Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 500, Moser 8.8 Solid axle, Wilwoods, Power Steering
    My Build Thread: Tonks347, The Baker's Build
    Slow and steady wins the race.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by doddmoore View Post
    I've done maintenance and upgrading on all my cars my whole life but I am so far out of the league of most guys here it blows me away.
    There are many of us who started this project with about the same or even less experience than you. The build will get you up to speed and increase your self-confidence as you go. You'll be offering tips to the new guys in no time.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, currently a roller.
    Gen-2 Coyote, clutch, TKO600, midshift, and solid axle from Forte. Many pieces from Breeze and Replicarparts.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    It is a "AC" ***ra kit car!
    : )
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  10. #10
    2bking's Avatar
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    I live in Texas, it gets hot here. I have AC and the FFR premium top. The top is mainly to keep the sun off so stopping in traffic isn't miserable; I fitted the windows but have never used them with the top yet. The AC works really well for keeping a dry stream of cool air circulating around the cockpit. It doesn't cool like would happen in a sealed up car but will make driving in the humidity and heat a pleasant experience. It cools just enough to keep the sweat off.

    Edward nailed it, the key to keeping the hot air out is sealing the body to the frame and all the little gaps in the sheet metal. That and any kind of effective insulation on the cockpit panels will isolate you from the engine/exhaust heat. I didn't add any footbox vents and don't think they are needed when the sealing and insulating is done right. There is plenty of outside air circulating around. There may be a case made for the vents if driving with the windows in place but the top isn't well sealed so I thing the drafts would be enough. I have had several occasions where I was caught in a rain shower and the AC coming up through the defrost vents kept the backside of the windshield clear.

    If you decide to go with AC, make sure the engine can idle with the load of the compressor. I have the Coyote and it doesn't have any problem with the AC and Power steering load because the PCM maintains the correct idle speed.
    King
    Roadster #8127, ordered 7/12/13, received 9/11/13
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...4-Coyote-Build

  11. #11

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    When I had a daily driver cobra it had no top, so I cooked in Atlanta.. or got wet (crash helmet when it rained).

    Long traffic lights sucked, but unless you're grid-locked often the driving part even in 100deg was fine. You'll get a tan
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  12. #12

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    The Point Of A Drop Top Is To Drop The Top!

    I'm near NOLA and my old C4 rag top seldom gets the AC turned on.

    Seldom = when Mrs. Go Dad rides in it which is almost never.

    Do some power foot box vents and I think you will be fine.

  13. #13
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    AC or not depends on what your use plans are. If you are OK w/ not driving every time it's going to be 85deg, then you don't need AC. If you want a widely usable car do AC. If it's 8AM and you are planning a drive somewhere but will be driving home at 2PM and the forecast is for 90 deg, w/ AC you can take the cobra. W/o AC you probably will take another car. Of course the best use of the AC requires a top. I have a hardtop and it makes all the difference since I am in the shade.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  14. #14
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Nah!!!
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  15. #15
    Senior Member John4337's Avatar
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    I’m in South Florida and built mine with A/C, and happy I did so. It won’t keep you daily driver cool, but really is great with the top on and the windows in when you get caught in the rain. It would be a sauna in there without it. We’ve gotten caught several times and it’s worked great.

    John
    FFR #7388 - Mk 4 Complete Kit w/ IRS, Ordered 10/21/10, Delivered 12/8/10. 302 with FiTech and Under Car Exhaust, Heat & A/C, Rod Top. Hard top and shop built side curtains added 2023.

  16. #16

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory View Post
    Nah!!!
    Ditto From The Big Easy!

  17. #17
    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Yes, if you are planning a top.
    No, if no top and no summer driving.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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