How to install upper trunk panel

[genebaker]

I'm painted in a corner, having followed the FFR instruction manual. Looking for others who may have figured a good way out.

Having installed the cockpit rear main panel (with about a thousand rivets and silicone), it is now exceedingly difficult (impossible?) to get a drill into place to drill the holes for the upper trunk panel into the 3 inch frame tube immediately to the rear of the cockpit panel. FFR's suggestion: "Remove the cockpit panel."

I would love to find a reasonable path forward without removing the cockpit panel. Not only is that a fair amount of work, but I don't enjoy the thought of 50 drilled out rivets rattling around for eternity inside the frame.

Thanks! Gene

(Note that the Rev. 3X August '17 FFR manual has corrected this build sequencing problem found in earlier editions of the manual.)

[Murd]

Will a 90 deg drill adaptor get in there?

[CDXXVII]

I just witnessed a guy do the same thing on his build. I would not attempt to remove the rear firewall.

Look into a good panel adhesive and rivet the rest the best you can. Panel adhesive is used in automobiles instead of welding for many applications. Make sure the panel can sit flat before you apply the adhesive. Apply the adhesive and set some weight on it and rivet the rest you will be fine.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3241847&rt=rud

[phileas_fogg]

I agree with 427; don't even try to remove the cockpit rear main panel.

You might be able to use a 12" long bit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rd_i=256270011) to keep the body of the drill above the upper edge of the panel. Otherwise, go with the panel adhesive. Also, before you go to the trouble of trying to drill rivet holes, make sure your rivet tool has access as well.

Alternatively, you could fabricate an angled bracket that is secured to the trunk side of the cockpit rear main panel and sandwiches the lower edge of the upper trunk panel into place.

Cheers,


John

P.S. Heads up on another sequencing error in the manual: install the triangular inner trunk side panels BEFORE the long rounded outer trunk panels. Otherwise you can't access the bottom edge of the inner trunk panels.

[rich grsc]

A word to the wise, never rivet any panel in place till ALL the panels have been fitted and drilled. I know it's a little late now, but maybe someone else will be helped.

[Al_C]

I agree with Murd. Go for the 90 degree drill adapter (low profile) and a short bit and get as close as you can. It isn't a great situation, but you can get past it!

[i.e.427]

The forward support that you are drilling into is 3" wide (2" X 3"). Drill as far toward the rear to the back of the car, still being in the rectangular tube. We've done enough partially built cars to know it isn't ideal but is doable. We use a 90* Makita drill with a short #30 drill bit, sealant and then just rivet in place. You'll be fine, especially if you plan on doing heat/sound mat and carpet.

[MPTech]

I agree with Rich, STOP RIVETING, until you have everything mocked up (and preferrably a few miles for shake-out).
Invest in a bunch of Clecos (or even some sheet metal screws to temporary securing the panels).

[TexasAviator]

I did this, I just sealed it and riveted a "X" across the panel. Its sealed and strong