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Thread: Whitby Power Brake Frame Mod

  1. #1
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    Whitby Power Brake Frame Mod

    I am converting to power brakes and ordered the frame mod from Whitby a month ago and haven't got the part yet. Anyone have the directions where to cut the frame to instal the frame mod. I am almost to the point of fitting up the booster but need to cut the frame and only want to do that once.

    Thanks

    Norm

  2. #2

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    You could just skip the Whitby piece and do what I do.
    Cut the frame at 1 inch from the foot box and at 6 inches. Then buy another piece of tube that is 8 inches long and bolt it to the outside of the section you just cut out. Works perfect.
    mike




    Last edited by michael everson; 04-10-2018 at 05:22 PM.

  3. #3
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I do the same as Mike. Don't forget to space the booster 3/8" forward of the front wall of the footbox.

    Jeff

  4. #4
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    I looked at mine, but there is no way to get a good pic, or measurement of the cut closest to the foot box on my finished car. It might be best to give Jeff a call at Whitby.

  5. #5
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    This is what the frame mod looked like on the Mk3 I had a few years ago. Pretty easy to see where it's cut.



    To Mike and Jeff's point, it does clear the booster by a lot.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. I'll do as Mike and Jeff suggested.

    Jeff, I made a spacer out of 1/2 inch aluminum plate. That is what my measurements said I needed with my combination of a 95 pedal box and an 87 booster.

    For anyone contemplating power brakes, do it before the body is on! After is about as much fun as a root canal without anesthetic.

    Norm

  7. #7
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    Perhaps I can help. These are posts while I was trying to blog the build.

    Measuring
    http://buildacobra.blogspot.com/2015...rived.html?m=1

    Day 1 of install
    http://buildacobra.blogspot.com/2015...e-mod.html?m=1

    Day 2 of install
    http://buildacobra.blogspot.com/2015...-cont.html?m=1
    Last edited by DadofThree; 04-10-2018 at 07:22 PM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  8. #8
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    I would recommend waiting for the mod till you have the part so you can get an exact cut. Also Replica Parts has a spacer that helps to seal the rubber on the back of the booster instead of just making a spacer. The booster directions call for 3/8” but the spacer they sold me was 1/2”. Called them and they said it was fine but after trying it out the pedal was too close to the footbox wall and needed to be moved toward the driver. I milled the spacer down to 5/16” and that gave the pedal a nice resting position more inline with the clutch pedal and still not making contact with the 3/4” tube welded in by FFR to keep the pedal from moving forward. Good luck.
    JRL16
    Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.

  9. #9
    Member Kpt112's Avatar
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    Does anyone know what master cylinder and brake booster Whitby's is selling? I mean what car is it actually from? Just curious.

  10. #10
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
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    Instead of cutting the bar out, you can actually just cut a section out of the bar. Invert it and weld it back in. That way you don't have that odd looking jog in the bar.
    Worked on my Coupe.

    John
    Finished the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Sniper EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  11. #11
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
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    Finished the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Sniper EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  12. #12
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    I called Jeff at Whitby and they had not processed the order yet so I canceled it. I went with the mod suggested by Mike. Everything fits nicely. With todays weather I am thinking I should be building some sort of a snow machine.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Norm B; 04-16-2018 at 11:44 AM.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    Power brake mod completed. Took the car for a drive and the brakes are great. It can be done with the body on but, changing the pedal is a challenge!

    Norm
    Attached Images Attached Images

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