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Thread: Rear/front lights wiring help, pictures please :)

  1. #1
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Rear/front lights wiring help, pictures please :)

    Hello,

    Last night I started making working on rear end lights connectors. I ordered 3 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical connectors from Amazon.
    I started hooking up the orange light, seems to be working when turned the switch. Now on the red light...
    (My head hurts from other stuff, and I am confused with this wiring)

    I would really like to have some pictures! Can someone posted a pic/ link where I can see the wire connections? Nothing special, just basic setup.

    Thanks,
    Broku518
    Life is short, so start living it.
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  2. #2
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    No pictures but simply follow the colors!

    In the rear:
    The Ron Francis harness is set up so that all 4 lamps are illuminated for tail lights with one on each side used for brake lights and the other on each side used for turn signals. I prefer to orient them so that the uppers are brake lights for better visibility. When using that configuration:

    ---Tan harness wire at each corner is for tail lights and will go to the low element on all four light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

    ---Purple harness wire at each corner is for brake lights and will go to the bright element on the upper light assembly per side via the green lamp wire.

    ---Yellow harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

    ---White harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

    ---Black wire on all joins with the black harness ground.

    In front:

    ---Tan harness wire at each corner is for the amber parking/running lights and will go to the low element on both light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

    ---Dark green harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

    ---Light blue harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the light assembly via the green lamp wire.

    ---Black wire on both joins with the black harness ground.

    If you do that you don't need any stinking pictures!

    Jeff

  3. #3
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff!
    So far I wired the directional lights. They work fine, left and right. Also my emergency flashers work.


    One issue is with break light. It is on, and when step on break they turn off. ? weird, perhaps a bad brake switch, else?

    Thanks,
    Martin
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  4. #4
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broku518 View Post
    Thanks Jeff!
    So far I wired the directional lights. They work fine, left and right. Also my emergency flashers work.


    One issue is with break light. It is on, and when step on break they turn off. ? weird, perhaps a bad brake switch, else?

    Thanks,
    Martin
    Martin,

    Check the wire connections at the brake switch. If you got the same switches I did, then the clutch and brake wires should be on opposite ends of the switch. In other words, the clutch switch works opposite of how the brake light switch works. The details are in the RF harness instruction book.



    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 04-11-2018 at 08:40 PM.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Perfect, that was it! Brake pedal works fine Adjusted the switch a bit so it lights up on ~1/4" pedal press.
    I will work on low/high front lights tomorrow. Thank you.

    Martin
    Last edited by broku518; 04-11-2018 at 09:07 PM.
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  6. #6
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    okies. So my front headlights are wired and working, low and high. The blue light lights up when on high.
    Tested with multiple on/off and flipping switches at random to trigger some weird behavior. Everything is working as expected.

    There is a separate switch to turn low/high light. For some reason I was hoping this be incorporated in main switch.
    The dash dimmer is separate from main switch. I guess the GPS gauges comes with its own dial knob.
    Life is short, so start living it.
    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
    delivery date: 10/31/2017, first start 2/24/2018, title and registration passed 6/22/2018

  7. #7
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broku518 View Post
    okies. So my front headlights are wired and working, low and high. The blue light lights up when on high.
    Tested with multiple on/off and flipping switches at random to trigger some weird behavior. Everything is working as expected.

    There is a separate switch to turn low/high light. For some reason I was hoping this be incorporated in main switch.
    The dash dimmer is separate from main switch. I guess the GPS gauges comes with its own dial knob.
    Martin,

    I did a foot-operated headlight dimmer switch rather than the toggle in the dash.



    I also mounted the dimmer for the gauges in one of my lower dash braces along with the hazard switch and the speedo function/reset button.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 04-13-2018 at 08:11 PM.
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  8. #8
    Senior Member broku518's Avatar
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    Thanks Dave.
    I am thinking about relocating the dash dimmer on same bracket.
    I might as well place the low/high switch there. Simple and easy.

    Thanks,
    Martin
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    Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-in-the-garage!
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  9. #9
    RJD's Avatar
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    If you have the vintage guages, you don't need to mount the dimming knob. See page 59 of the Chassis Wiring Harness instructions. Essentially turn the knob full clockwise, zip tie the knob to the backside of the dash, then use the headlight switch to dim the guage lighting.
    MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.

  10. #10
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJD View Post
    If you have the vintage guages, you don't need to mount the dimming knob. See page 59 of the Chassis Wiring Harness instructions. Essentially turn the knob full clockwise, zip tie the knob to the backside of the dash, then use the headlight switch to dim the guage lighting.
    Unfortunately if you follow the manual, the main headlight dimmer will not dim the gauges, but will act as an all or nothing switch. I mounted the gauge dimmer in the dash support under the driver's side of the dash along with the reset button for the speedometer.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
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  11. #11
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJD View Post
    If you have the vintage guages, you don't need to mount the dimming knob. See page 59 of the Chassis Wiring Harness instructions. Essentially turn the knob full clockwise, zip tie the knob to the backside of the dash, then use the headlight switch to dim the guage lighting.
    You're right, that's what the manual says. Just checked it myself because it surprises me. But it's wrong. The Vintage gauges (Speedhut) will only dim with the potentiometer wired to the inverter. The dimmer knob on the headlight switch won't dim the Speedhut gauges. The knob will only act as an on/off switch. Most recommend leaving it fully counterclockwise against the stop for the courtesy lights. That insures the full 12 volts is going to the Speedhut lighting circuit and it's a short twist to turn the courtesy lights on/off if you have them wired to that circuit.

    If you want to dig into this further, Speedhut's website has a technical description of the lighting, why it requires the inverter (it only runs on AC), and why the separate dimmer is required.

    Edit: Papa and I posted at the same time. He obviously learned the same thing.
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  12. #12
    RJD's Avatar
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    Thanks Papa and Edwardb. Good info. Back to the garage I go!
    MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.

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