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Thread: Powder coat and POR plans

  1. #1

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    Powder coat and POR plans

    Putting my questions at the top:
    1. Am I forgetting anything? Or am I including stuff I won't actually use (I have the Coyote Fitment Kit + IRS).
    2. With the calipers, I was thinking of ordering decals to put Wilwood back on after. Does Wilwood sell them, or just buy aftermarket like these on Amazon?
    3. Pedal boxes, for things like the clutch quadrant assembly, should that be painted? POR or PC?
    4. What about the Door Latch spacers? I think EdwardB simply attached them before body painting and they got painted.
    5. The manual suggests PC for certain parts, yet some seem silly to PC, and are on my POR list, any concern? Like the quadrant stop and switch mount.



    I didn't realize how long the engagement with local powder coating places was going to take... After a couple weeks of back and forth, I think I have found the right crew and reasonable price. 20+ years experience, probably take them a week, and between $800-1000 depending on the details of final parts list and such. They also are happy to do my calipers in my accent color for another $200 or so. Seems reasonable.

    As I have been going thru this, I have read many other build threads that say "I should have included that on my PC list", so I have tried to do my best to be 1 trip and done, we'll see. Here's the list I compiled of stuff going to the powder coater.

    53 panels to Powder Coat:
    Part # Description
    10551 Footbox Outside Vertical Wall, PS
    10554 Footbox Outside Vertical Wall, DS
    10853 Footbox Top, PS
    10858 Footbox Top Outside Section, DS
    10905 Footbox Tunnel Side Vertical Wall, DS
    12273 Engine Harness Block Off Plate
    12407 Dash Harness Block Off Plate
    12806 Transmission Tunnel Front Vertical Wall
    13138 Footbox Front Vertical Wall, PS
    13139 Footbox Tunnel Side Vertical Wall, PS
    14733 Footbox Front Wall Patch Cover, DS
    15015 Footbox Top Outside, PS
    15523 Footbox Top Inside Section, DS
    15802 Wilwood Clutch Blockoff
    16061 Footbox Top Inside Cover, DS
    16277 Footbox Front Wall Panel, DS
    10559 Firewall
    10863 F Panel, PS
    10864 F Panel, DS
    10963 Firewall Extension, PS
    13647 Fuse Panel Mount
    16274 Coyote 2015 Computer Mount
    16484 Coyote 2015 Fuse Panel Mount
    B70561 Front Battery Box (Breeze)
    B32204 Fan Shroud (Breeze)
    RP101 Main Intake Cowl - Nose Opening (Replica Parts)
    10560 Trunk Floor, Upper (Front)
    12959 Trunk Floor Block Off Plates (x2)
    15011 Trunk Outside Wall, DS
    15012 Trunk Outside Wall, PS
    15222 Trunk Floor, Lower (Rear)
    15223 Trunk Side Cover (x2)
    RT101 Trunk Drop Box (Russ Thompson)
    10557 Cockpit Floor w/Tunnel Wall, DS
    10558 Cockpit Floor w/Tunnel Wall, PS
    10563 Transmission Tunnel Top
    10823 Rear Cockpit Vertical Wall
    10906 Transmission Tunnel Rear (U-Joint Access Panel)
    12274 Transmission Harness Block Off Plate
    12985 Footbox Dropped Floor, DS
    13247 Transmission Tunnel Rear Corner, PS
    13634 Footbox Dropped Floor, PS
    13642 Under Door Lower, PS
    13803 Under Door Top, DS
    14057 Transmission Tunnel Cover Block Off Plate w/Hole
    14582 Under Door Lower, DS
    14583 Transmission Tunnel Rear Corner, DS
    14584 Under Door Top, PS
    15020 Rear Cockpit Corner, DS
    15021 Rear Cockpit Corner, PS
    RP102 Underdash Filler Panel (Replica Parts)

    Notice I am not using certain parts because I am replacing with parts from ReplicaParts, etc. This is mainly just the Nose panels and a couple dash switch mounts.

    31 Additional Parts for Powder Coating:
    Part # Description
    33113 Bracket: Trunk Hinge Mount
    15639 Trunk Hinge Arm
    14788 Wilwood Brake Light Switch Mount, Steel
    16209 Wilwood Pedalbox Mount
    16210 Wilwood Pedalbox Rear Mount
    13972 Bracket: Gas Strut, 90 deg bent, Short
    13451 Frame Adjustment Plate, DS
    13452 Arm Support Plate, DS
    13520 Arm Support Plate, PS
    13946 Hood Mount Plate
    14006 Frame Adjustment Plate, PS
    15143 Long Arm, DS
    15144 Long Arm, PS
    25410 Arm: Short
    13531 Spacer: 3/16, Steel (Door Latch)
    15176 Lower Handle Assembly
    15661 Front Body Mount, DS
    15662 Front Body Mount, PS
    12470 QJ Bent Hook, DS
    12471 QJ Bent Hook, PS
    16000 IRS Swaybar Mount, DS
    16001 IRS Swaybar Mount, PS

    23 parts I am planning to simply paint with POR.
    Part # Description
    13653 Bracket: Brake Line Mount
    14495 Fuel Filter Bracket
    14689 Braided Brake Line Mount
    15170 Bracket: E-Brake Mounting
    15431 Accelerator Mount Bracket
    60175 Drive Shaft, 31 Spline x10.50
    15167 Fixed Gear
    15168 Handle to Ratchet Mount
    15169 Ratchet Tooth
    14689 Braided Brake Line Mount
    15016 Fuel Strap Block Off Plate
    16258 Clutch Top Travel Switch Mount
    16259 Clutch Bottom Travel Switch Mount
    16260 Clutch Pedal Switch Mount
    16262 Bottom Switch Clutch Quadrant Plate
    16122 IRS Center Section

    And lastly the 4 splash panels in Dupli-Color Bed Armor.


    Thanks again
    -Brian
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
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  2. #2
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Thanks for the list! Anyone POR’d all of their panels versus powder coating?

  3. #3
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    Don’t think I saw it but I got hood hinges and parking brake handle parts powder coated too. Basically if it’s bare metal get it done.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    Don’t think I saw it but I got hood hinges and parking brake handle parts powder coated too. Basically if it’s bare metal get it done.
    Great advice. The hood hinge is like 8 parts that I have listed individually. As for E-brake, I am sending just my lower handle assembly for PC. I plan to POR the other parts as they wont see much light.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member John Ibele's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Thanks for the list! Anyone POR’d all of their panels versus powder coating?
    POR actually is short for ‘Paint Over Rust’, which is a good way to remember that this product was formulated for metals which form iron oxide, so not designed for application on aluminum.

    Plenty has been written on this and the other forum about finishing options for aluminum. Add “site:thefactoryfiveforum.com” to your search string in your browser to search this forum.

    Options that many have used include powder coating, Shark-hide, anodizing, painting, or leaving natural, either as-is or buffed with a scouring pad. If painting, plan on using zinc chromate treatment, a self-etching primer, or PreKote for best results. I am using the latter since it has been shown to be as good or better than any other surface prep for paint, and with less personal or environmental hazard. Good luck.
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  6. #6
    Jazzman's Avatar
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    Take a piece of advice from a guy who powder coated everything: DON'T! I wasted a lot of money coating panels that will never see the light of day. Unless you are going for a show car and you want to put mirrors under your car to show how clean and finished every piece is, you will be wasting a lot of money on PC. If/when I do it again, here is what I would do:

    Pieces visible in the engine bay: Powdercoat to match your chosen color scheme. It's a nice touch, and makes the engine bay look finished. Remember the outside panels of the footboxes will never be seen unless you take off the body (or are doing a FlipTop!! ) Do the elephant ears and the filler panel for the PS elephant ear, the F Panels, the Firewall, the panel that goes below the dash and around both sides of the transmission tunnel, and the inside and front panels of the footboxes. Thats it.

    Cockpit panels: Don't bother! the inside of the cockpit will be entirely covered with carpet or other finishes. The underside of the cockpit can't be seen unless you a)raise the car and put mirrors on the floor, b) put the car on a lift, or c) flip the car upside down, in which case you will have much larger problems than uncoated aluminum panels!

    Trunk panels: unless you do not plan to carpet the trunk, you will never see either side of the trunk panels. carpeting the trunk is a nice finishing touch. If you don't plan to carpet anyway, what difference does powdercoat make in the trunk? Scuff it with a scotch brite and call it done. The outside of the trunk side panels might be seen if you take a flashlight, look just above the tires. Not sure it is worth worrying about, and I worried about seeing everything!!

    Rear elephant ears: Very difficult to see them after the car is complete. If you don't want to see the silver behind the tire if you really look for it, you may want to powder coat them. But in order to see them, your head must be less than 2" thick to get around the wheels and tires once they are in place! I am honestly not sure how much difference it makes.

    Hope my experience helps you avoid wasting money. I assure you we can help you find better ways to waste your money!!
    Jazzman

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  7. #7
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Take a piece of advice from a guy who powder coated everything: DON'T! I wasted a lot of money coating panels that will never see the light of day. Unless you are going for a show car and you want to put mirrors under your car to show how clean and finished every piece is, you will be wasting a lot of money on PC. If/when I do it again, here is what I would do:

    Pieces visible in the engine bay: Powdercoat to match your chosen color scheme. It's a nice touch, and makes the engine bay look finished. Remember the outside panels of the footboxes will never be seen unless you take off the body (or are doing a FlipTop!! ) Do the elephant ears and the filler panel for the PS elephant ear, the F Panels, the Firewall, the panel that goes below the dash and around both sides of the transmission tunnel, and the inside and front panels of the footboxes. Thats it.

    Cockpit panels: Don't bother! the inside of the cockpit will be entirely covered with carpet or other finishes. The underside of the cockpit can't be seen unless you a)raise the car and put mirrors on the floor, b) put the car on a lift, or c) flip the car upside down, in which case you will have much larger problems than uncoated aluminum panels!

    Trunk panels: unless you do not plan to carpet the trunk, you will never see either side of the trunk panels. carpeting the trunk is a nice finishing touch. If you don't plan to carpet anyway, what difference does powdercoat make in the trunk? Scuff it with a scotch brite and call it done. The outside of the trunk side panels might be seen if you take a flashlight, look just above the tires. Not sure it is worth worrying about, and I worried about seeing everything!!

    Rear elephant ears: Very difficult to see them after the car is complete. If you don't want to see the silver behind the tire if you really look for it, you may want to powder coat them. But in order to see them, your head must be less than 2" thick to get around the wheels and tires once they are in place! I am honestly not sure how much difference it makes.

    Hope my experience helps you avoid wasting money. I assure you we can help you find better ways to waste your money!!
    Thanks Bud. Exactly what I was looking for!

  8. #8
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    There is a wide variation in powder coating prices. I spent about 500 Canadian (only 300-350 USD) to do all Aluminum and steel parts for the car. In the grand scheme of things a pretty small expense. Some quotes I got were triple that, depends who you take it to and what they specialize in. If they have a small oven and do a lot of work for auto/motorcycle guys, they will be expensive. Find someone who does lots of fences, gates, big stuff. They can shoot and bake all or most of your parts at once which brings the cost way down.

    While much of it gets covered in carpet, you can still see the back side in the wheel wells of some, and yes underneath. Bare aluminum will oxidize, and will not look as well finished over time. While you might not care, a buyer very well might if you ever want to sell it. I feel it’s very cheap to protect everything from corrosion for the long term and a hundred or two spent now might bring far more and a quicker sale if you want to unload it down the road.

  9. #9

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    Spend a few bux and do your own powder coating. It's really not that difficult, and it ends up being cheaper and easier to do it yourself. The as you find other parts you make or modify, you can coat those, too. Anything that fits into a standard kitchen oven, you can coat yourself.

    I don't like installing uncoated steel anywhere, because you know it will eventually rust. I hate that.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    Anything that fits into a standard kitchen oven, you can coat yourself.
    Have you looked at the cost of a divorce lately?

  11. #11
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    Have you looked at the cost of a divorce lately?
    ....

  12. #12
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    Spend a few bux and do your own powder coating. It's really not that difficult, and it ends up being cheaper and easier to do it yourself. The as you find other parts you make or modify, you can coat those, too. Anything that fits into a standard kitchen oven, you can coat yourself.

    I don't like installing uncoated steel anywhere, because you know it will eventually rust. I hate that.
    Actually, this is a great idea and didn't know how inexpensive it was. I can get a small sand blaster and powder gun at HF for $100 combined. Add a used oven I can get on the cheap for $50. $150 plus powder and I can powder coat everything on the car.

    Anyone ever do wheels? I'm assuming that you just sandblast the clear coat off, clean and get to powder coating?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Actually, this is a great idea and didn't know how inexpensive it was. I can get a small sand blaster and powder gun at HF for $100 combined. Add a used oven I can get on the cheap for $50. $150 plus powder and I can powder coat everything on the car.
    This is what I did. I bought a used oven at a garage sale for about $25 and installed it in my garage for another $25 in electrical parts. I powder coat all kinds of parts for my vehicles and various projects.
    .boB "Iron Man"
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  14. #14
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Lots of guys have mentioned doing their own powder coating with not too expensive equipment and a garage sale oven. Thought about it myself a few times, but haven't taken the plunge. I don't know about everything on the car though. Some of the panels especially are pretty big. Way too big for any kind of garage sale home style oven. I suspect the same for wheels as well.
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  15. #15
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Lots of guys have mentioned doing their own powder coating with not too expensive equipment and a garage sale oven. Thought about it myself a few times, but haven't taken the plunge. I don't know about everything on the car though. Some of the panels especially are pretty big. Way too big for any kind of garage sale home style oven. I suspect the same for wheels as well.
    Was thinking the same thing around the larger pieces. I watched a video online and a guy was able to fit a 17" wheel in a residential sized oven. The exhaust, windshield frame and some larger panels would have to be sent out. I would think it would still be cost effective for all of the smalls?

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jazzman View Post
    Take a piece of advice from a guy who powder coated everything: DON'T! I wasted a lot of money coating panels that will never see the light of day. Unless you are going for a show car and you want to put mirrors under your car to show how clean and finished every piece is, you will be wasting a lot of money on PC. ...
    I agree Jazzman. I want the undercarriage to have some color and durability, so parts like the interior panels I am planning to PC on 1 side as the side that faces the interior will just be covered with heat/sound shielding. I have the broadest list here to include all potential items I want to PC or Paint/POR, and as I am doing all my part drilling I am deciding if its worth it or not on each part.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    Spend a few bux and do your own powder coating. It's really not that difficult, and it ends up being cheaper and easier to do it yourself. The as you find other parts you make or modify, you can coat those, too. Anything that fits into a standard kitchen oven, you can coat yourself.

    I don't like installing uncoated steel anywhere, because you know it will eventually rust. I hate that.
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Lots of guys have mentioned doing their own powder coating with not too expensive equipment and a garage sale oven. Thought about it myself a few times, but haven't taken the plunge. I don't know about everything on the car though. Some of the panels especially are pretty big. Way too big for any kind of garage sale home style oven. I suspect the same for wheels as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Was thinking the same thing around the larger pieces. I watched a video online and a guy was able to fit a 17" wheel in a residential sized oven. The exhaust, windshield frame and some larger panels would have to be sent out. I would think it would still be cost effective for all of the smalls?
    Bob, EdwardB, and Cv - I hadn't really thought about this option before... I started researching this last night, and it looks like fun and an excuse for more tools/toys... If I do wind up doing this it will be for smaller parts that I am willing to not have perfect. So my engine compartment pieces will still go to the PC along with stuff that wont fit in an oven. But this might be fun to learn this technique and be able to use in other future projects. We'll see.

    I definitely agree with Bob on the desire to make sure everything is protected and durable. I am also finding myself racing to make sure I don't miss a single part for the PC as I don't want to deal with the delays or costs, etc. But that's also causing its own kind of grief and I am still waiting for a few additional parts from FFR, Breeze, ReplicaParts, etc to go to PC...

    The guy doing my powder coating is also pretty cool and very helpful on picking the powder colors and all that, I expect I will wind up with extra from the work he does, that I could then use at home to do small parts or new/replacement/missed parts later...

    Thanks again for the input!
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
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    I’ve read it discussed on here a number of times that you won’t save any money only PC one side of a panel, the powder is not expensive, $20 did all my panels with some left over. Some have pointed out you might get charged more if he has to keep track of which side to do.

  18. #18
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    I’ve read it discussed on here a number of times that you won’t save any money only PC one side of a panel, the powder is not expensive, $20 did all my panels with some left over. Some have pointed out you might get charged more if he has to keep track of which side to do.
    You beat me to it. That's been my experience with several PC shops. Selective coating is the same cost or more than all over coating, e.g. both sides. Rationale: Powder is cheaper than the added labor. The oven time is the same either way.

    FWIW, put me in the camp of powder coating everything except parts that are completely buried, and there's only a couple of those. Door sill pieces are one example I can think of. I don't use lights and mirrors at car shows, but I still want the underside coated. A number of pieces are visible from the wheel wells. Even though some pieces get one side covered (e.g. cockpit carpeting) I don't consider any powder coating to be a "waste." But that's my opinion and totally get it might not be the same for others.

    Two hints: First, don't piecemeal the powder coating work. That will add to the cost significantly. I generally do a Roadster in two batches. First is the largest with everything except the splash guards, radiator surround, and maybe another misc. piece or two. Those are fitted during final body install, and then done while the body is being painted. Second, shop around. There can be a big difference in the cost depending on a number of things including how bad they want the work.
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  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    You beat me to it. That's been my experience with several PC shops. Selective coating is the same cost or more than all over coating, e.g. both sides. Rationale: Powder is cheaper than the added labor. The oven time is the same either way.

    FWIW, put me in the camp of powder coating everything except parts that are completely buried, and there's only a couple of those. Door sill pieces are one example I can think of. I don't use lights and mirrors at car shows, but I still want the underside coated. A number of pieces are visible from the wheel wells. Even though some pieces get one side covered (e.g. cockpit carpeting) I don't consider any powder coating to be a "waste." But that's my opinion and totally get it might not be the same for others.

    Two hints: First, don't piecemeal the powder coating work. That will add to the cost significantly. I generally do a Roadster in two batches. First is the largest with everything except the splash guards, radiator surround, and maybe another misc. piece or two. Those are fitted during final body install, and then done while the body is being painted. Second, shop around. There can be a big difference in the cost depending on a number of things including how bad they want the work.
    Good advice Murd and Paul. I hadn't thought of that.
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    Also keep in mind that a lot of the parts will need to be massaged a bit for them to fit correctly. And if you want some things to look good, you'll want to file off rough edges, casting flash, welding splatter, etc. You want to do all the clean up, fitting, and assembly prior to powder coating. Then take it apart, coat it, and put it back together.

    That's when the ability to do it yourself really comes in handy. You can prep and coat a small batch of parts in less than an hour.
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  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    Also keep in mind that a lot of the parts will need to be massaged a bit for them to fit correctly. And if you want some things to look good, you'll want to file off rough edges, casting flash, welding splatter, etc. You want to do all the clean up, fitting, and assembly prior to powder coating. Then take it apart, coat it, and put it back together.

    That's when the ability to do it yourself really comes in handy. You can prep and coat a small batch of parts in less than an hour.
    I got a line on a free oven, so I may be getting into the home powder coating gig.

    Another question I was looking for... The clutch assembly has a whole lot of bare metal parts, should those get PC? Or nothing on them? I don't know if anything would interfere with their assembly and operation.
    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
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  22. #22
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fabb View Post
    Another question I was looking for... The clutch assembly has a whole lot of bare metal parts, should those get PC? Or nothing on them? I don't know if anything would interfere with their assembly and operation. -B
    I assume you're talking about the several laser cut steel parts FF provides to convert the Wilwood pedal box clutch to a cable system. No need to powder coat IMO, and could easily affect how they go together as you mention. Depending on the application, powder coat can add quite a bit of thickness. I wouldn't leave them bare though. Not steel. Hit them with your favorite rattle can. Rustoleum, Dupli-Color, Eastwood, whatever.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I assume you're talking about the several laser cut steel parts FF provides to convert the Wilwood pedal box clutch to a cable system. No need to powder coat IMO, and could easily affect how they go together as you mention. Depending on the application, powder coat can add quite a bit of thickness. I wouldn't leave them bare though. Not steel. Hit them with your favorite rattle can. Rustoleum, Dupli-Color, Eastwood, whatever.
    perfect, thanks. And if I am planning to do hydraulic clutch are those parts not even used?
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
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  24. #24
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fabb View Post
    perfect, thanks. And if I am planning to do hydraulic clutch are those parts not even used?
    Nope. They go in the leftover parts box.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  25. #25
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    For the guys who have powder coated, how messy is it? I haven't priced anything out yet but am. Considering this route because I know it may be expensive. I have a fairly small garage and don't want to have a bunch of dust all over if this is messy.

  26. #26

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    Not much at all. I built a small wooden frame out of some scrap lumber to hold the oven rack. I cut open a large plastic bag for a backdrop to catch the over spray. I carefully roll up the plastic and put it in the trash. Sometimes there's a little overspray on the floor that I have to sweep up, but usually not. Total clean up is about 5-7 minutes.

    The garage door has to be closed when you're spraying. It's a very fine dust, and any bit of a breeze will will spread it all over. But then you have to open the door a bit when you're baking, because it really stinks.

    One trick to a good shine is to let it cool slowly. I turn the oven off and open the door a bit and let the parts cool slowly. If I have multiple batches to do, I plan the ones that don't really matter that much - like semi gloss - first so it doesn't slow me down. I save the tricky parts - like translucent over chrome - for last.
    .boB "Iron Man"
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  27. #27
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post
    Not much at all. I built a small wooden frame out of some scrap lumber to hold the oven rack. I cut open a large plastic bag for a backdrop to catch the over spray. I carefully roll up the plastic and put it in the trash. Sometimes there's a little overspray on the floor that I have to sweep up, but usually not. Total clean up is about 5-7 minutes.

    The garage door has to be closed when you're spraying. It's a very fine dust, and any bit of a breeze will will spread it all over. But then you have to open the door a bit when you're baking, because it really stinks.

    One trick to a good shine is to let it cool slowly. I turn the oven off and open the door a bit and let the parts cool slowly. If I have multiple batches to do, I plan the ones that don't really matter that much - like semi gloss - first so it doesn't slow me down. I save the tricky parts - like translucent over chrome - for last.
    Got a picture of your setup Bob?

  28. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    Got a picture of your setup Bob?


    Pretty simple, really. I cobbled it together out of scraps lying around about 12-15 years ago. I can put the rack on the top to hang things from. Or I can put it on the bottom to set things on. When not in use, it hangs on the wall out of the way.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
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  29. #29
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Cowan View Post


    Pretty simple, really. I cobbled it together out of scraps lying around about 12-15 years ago. I can put the rack on the top to hang things from. Or I can put it on the bottom to set things on. When not in use, it hangs on the wall out of the way.
    Thanks Bob!

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