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Thread: REAR 3- link ADJUSTMENT & JACKING & REAR SHOCKS

  1. #1
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    REAR 3- link ADJUSTMENT & JACKING & REAR SHOCKS

    OK (Best) to jack from the pumpkin - liked my MkIV better - jacking from the frame - feels safer.

    Second, no tires or engine yet, but is there a manual how (and what and why) to adjust the 3-link? Really confused with the adjusting bracket.

    Finally, the rear shocks (treaded adjustment cylinder) is really really close to the rear chassis brackets - normal ? and will change once I lower the car on it's feet?

    Thanks!

    Walter

  2. #2
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    Walter, what adjustment on the 3-link is confusing? You have pinion angle, lateral alignment, and if I recall a couple of LCA settings on the axle bracket and I don't remember if there were also a couple of track bar adjustments for roll center. I don't recall the rear shock body (part that has the coil adjuster) being close to the chassis mounts but they may have an interference fit on the axle mounts. If that's the case a hole saw will take care of that problem. Photos would help.

  3. #3
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    The attached images show how close the shock bodies are to the rear bracket about 1/32" if that???
    IMG_1640.JPGIMG_1644.JPG

  4. #4
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    Walter, that's an easy fix. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of what I've done to make more clearance here but I'll walk you through it. Think of this shock mount bracket as a piece of rectangle tubing and measure across the I.D. width. Select a hole saw ~1/4" smaller than this dimension. Measure down 1/4" from the top edge of the shock bracket and centered across the width. Mark and center punch then drill a small pilot hole (~ .060") and next enlarge this to 1/4" or the size of your pilot drill on the hole saw. Carefully use the hole saw to cut a large hole (it will actually be slightly more than a half a hole) and de-burr. Do not drill or cut into the axle tube -- just the shock mount. Touch-up paint to match your rear end and you will have sufficient room for your shock and it will look like OEM.

  5. #5
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    I’ll have to check again when i get home, but I think when I rolled my axle forward and got pinion angle right, it corrected that issue. The more you roll it forward, that clearance should open up I think.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    Iíll have to check again when i get home, but I think when I rolled my axle forward and got pinion angle right, it corrected that issue. The more you roll it forward, that clearance should open up I think.
    Even when it's all dialed in that area is really close, so making the hole saw cut is a good idea anyway.
    The top of the coils rub on the inner tub of the fenders too on some of the cars so it's tight all around.
    DB

  7. #7
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    I’ll go back and check that clearance, DB. Thanks.
    '33 Hot Rod
    Ordered: 3/25/17. Delivered: 5/6/17. 1st start: 8/24/18

    MK4 Roadster
    Ordered: 7/10/13. Delivered: 8/20/13. Completed: 10/26/15.
    I did everything except spray it. She ain't perfect, but she's mine.

  8. #8
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    IMG_0645.JPGIMG_0646.JPG These might help.
    Thanks,
    Andy

  9. #9
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    I had issues with my shock clearance which was compounded by my offbeat pinion angle.

    NOTE: My Driveline Angle Is Different Compared To The Typical Ford Powered MK-4's!


    In my case, I had to use shorter lower control arms and had to move the top of the shocks back a bit which can be viewed 40-50 seconds into the attached video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCngiKoopkA&t=22s

    Just remember to set your pinion angle 1st, then determine if you have shock clearance issues.

    Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-21-2018 at 12:19 PM.

  10. #10
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    I will go with the hole saw idea if setting the pinion anle doesn't work, or shocks still too close - thanks everyone
    BUT, it was mentioned to set the pinion angle first - I know how to adjust, but what am I setting it to? Keeping the driveshaft and pumpkin perfectly straight?

    Walter

  11. #11
    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo GoDadGo's Avatar
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    Here is a video that may help in case you want more information about U-Joint phasing, pinion angles and elliptical acceleration and deceleration.

    https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

    Good Luck!

  12. #12
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    if you have a smart phone you can you can down load an app from Tremec that uses your phone to figure out the angles, I have used it a number of times on different cars with great success, the best part is it's free.

  13. #13
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    Here is anothr one that works well and tell you if your in the appropriate range: http://spicerparts.com/calculators/d...gle-calculator

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