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Thread: REAR 3- link ADJUSTMENT & JACKING & REAR SHOCKS

  1. #1

    REAR 3- link ADJUSTMENT & JACKING & REAR SHOCKS

    OK (Best) to jack from the pumpkin - liked my MkIV better - jacking from the frame - feels safer.

    Second, no tires or engine yet, but is there a manual how (and what and why) to adjust the 3-link? Really confused with the adjusting bracket.

    Finally, the rear shocks (treaded adjustment cylinder) is really really close to the rear chassis brackets - normal ? and will change once I lower the car on it's feet?

    Thanks!

    Walter

  2. #2
    Seasoned Citizen
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    679
    Walter, what adjustment on the 3-link is confusing? You have pinion angle, lateral alignment, and if I recall a couple of LCA settings on the axle bracket and I don't remember if there were also a couple of track bar adjustments for roll center. I don't recall the rear shock body (part that has the coil adjuster) being close to the chassis mounts but they may have an interference fit on the axle mounts. If that's the case a hole saw will take care of that problem. Photos would help.

  3. #3
    The attached images show how close the shock bodies are to the rear bracket about 1/32" if that???
    IMG_1640.JPGIMG_1644.JPG

  4. #4
    Seasoned Citizen
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    679
    Walter, that's an easy fix. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of what I've done to make more clearance here but I'll walk you through it. Think of this shock mount bracket as a piece of rectangle tubing and measure across the I.D. width. Select a hole saw ~1/4" smaller than this dimension. Measure down 1/4" from the top edge of the shock bracket and centered across the width. Mark and center punch then drill a small pilot hole (~ .060") and next enlarge this to 1/4" or the size of your pilot drill on the hole saw. Carefully use the hole saw to cut a large hole (it will actually be slightly more than a half a hole) and de-burr. Do not drill or cut into the axle tube -- just the shock mount. Touch-up paint to match your rear end and you will have sufficient room for your shock and it will look like OEM.

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