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Thread: Ball joints

  1. #1
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Ball joints

    Hi,
    Does anyone know what kind or size the FFV front ball joints are.

    I will at least need a new rubber boot and possibly a new ball joint.
    I have been trying to remove the front spindle adapter so that I can put on the mk4 spindles when they show up. They don’t want to come off and I have been beating on the first one with the nut on the end. I then looked on line for the answer and saw that I need pickle forks or a hf ball joint removal tool.
    How much hammering on the ball joints will the bearings take ? Or should I replace the 1 that I have been beating on as a precaution, now that I know how to remove them.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Factory Five has been supplying Mevotech MK772 upper ball joints for some time now. Some (including me) have had issues getting those to screw into the UCA. But others have been able to get them to work. Moog K772's are arguably a better part, although not immune from installation issues either. Both come with boots, but the Energy Suspension 5.13102G boots are vastly superior. Highly recommended. If you want to go off the deep end with the upper ball joints, some of us have used Howe Racing 22320S ball joints. At $65 apiece, a big price jump. And that doesn't include boots. But it's a very nice part and never any installation issues.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-25-2018 at 05:55 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bren's Avatar
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    I can second Edward's suggestion of the Energy Suspension boots. I just recently changed mine out and they are vastly superior to the stiff blue boots that came with the kit. Mine had been wrinkled for so long that they were deformed. I think it was because I had them on for so long while the front suspension was in full droop during the build, but I'm not certain. Anyway, replace them while you're at it.
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    #8203, carbed 427W (611 hp), TKO 600, IRS
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice and part numbers.

    Done
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  5. #5
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    As you search for the upper BJs, once you get beyond the 'what make and model car do you have?' you will see that the 772 number is used frequently as part of whatever supplier number you are looking at. It is a good double check whether what you are looking at is correct.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  6. #6
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    Edward, I noticed the FFR stock upper ball joints are pretty rough moving the ball around, although one of mine is much better than the other. Do you find the Moog or Howe ball joints move much more freely/smoothly? And what are your thoughts on lower ball joints? Again, my stock lowers a rather stiff and I certainly wouldn't describe their movement as smooth. Thanks for the help! - Ryan -

  7. #7
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SnowCobra View Post
    Edward, I noticed the FFR stock upper ball joints are pretty rough moving the ball around, although one of mine is much better than the other. Do you find the Moog or Howe ball joints move much more freely/smoothly? And what are your thoughts on lower ball joints? Again, my stock lowers a rather stiff and I certainly wouldn't describe their movement as smooth. Thanks for the help! - Ryan -
    Also responded to your PM. The Moog ball joints are a little smoother than the FF provided Mevotech ball joints, and perhaps higher quality. Although it's debatable and I don't have any data. Both would feel differently after being driven. The Howe ball joints are in a different class than both and are smooth, tight, and free right out of the box. But they're also a lot more money. Does it make a difference? Certainly can't hurt, but I can't say because I haven't done a before and after comparison. My motivation for different ball joints was very basic. I've done two builds when the Mevotechs were supplied and in both cases I couldn't get them to screw into the upper control arm. Tried varies tricks suggested, all unsuccessfully. In every case the Howe parts went in without drama and fit perfectly. That made them a win for me. Any additional improvement to the suspension and ride is a bonus. I've never changed lower ball joints. They're pressed in and wouldn't be so easy to change. They will feel a little tight right out of the box. But will be fine once they get some miles on them.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  8. #8
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Ball joints in general are a tight fit and it's quite common for them to feel stiff when moving them by hand. Trying to move that tapered stud that is only about 2 inches long gives no leverage. I think that the manufacturers know they are a crude product so they make them tight and then they can wear themselves smooth. OTOH smooth is really nice so I have BJs similar to the Howes from QA1
    https://www.qa1.net/suspension/ball-joints
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  9. #9
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Is the hf removal tool you mention, a ball joint press?

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