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Thread: MKII hood instructions

  1. #1
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    MKII hood instructions

    Hi All,

    I have a serial #2176 roadster and just fitted the body to the chassis recently for the first time. The instructions talk about hood pins and latches but this kit seems to have a hinge assembly that attaches to a metal frame.

    Do you have any instructions on how the hinge is attached and also the metal frame to the hood? Pic URLs below

    Thanks in advance.

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/SNKKTwKbZkZBntcl1

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/26MaoHeBVT2DtNSd8

  2. #2
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Similar to my MKI, but I made my own steel frame. The hinged piece was called the "horseshoe" and was either laminated (my choice) or rivet, SS screw to the hood. The hinge and hood weight of the frame is supported by the body, also something I didn't do and made it supported by the chassis frame. I can take pics later tonight when I get home to show mine if interested.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  3. #3
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    Pictures would be great, thanks!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    My "hoop" is bonded to the underside of the hood with some 3M industrial epoxy, but after a few years of that I decided to secure it even better with hex socket head screws and Nylok nuts. I can take pictures tomorrow, just got home from the Huntington Beach Cruise-In so busy getting everything squared away at home . . .

    I might be able to find the original instructions that came with my hood hinge kit, let me look in my stuff for it.

    I can tell you that the front "horseshoe" part is secured to the lip that the hood drops down in too up front.\;
    upload an image

    and the front rad support:


    Sorry I don't have better pics.

    Doc
    Last edited by Big Blocker; 04-30-2018 at 11:40 PM.
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  5. #5
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    They say a picture is worth a thousand words - definitely true in this case. Now it makes more sense. Thank you!

    If you can find the original instructions that would be a bonus.


  6. #6
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    These are my pictures of how I secured my hood. I got my original manual out and there is NO place where it explained how to secure the horseshoe. When we were building ours, there were a lot of gearheads with great ideas and we all came up with input. Some riveted, some used SS screws and I just bonded mine. I also had to make my own circumference frame and welded it to the horseshoe then bonded the entire unit to my hood. The best way I can tell you to secure (however you choose) is to put the hood on the body where it's most likely to rest and attach your frame. You will need the body on the chassis to really make it work. Once that's done, it's a matter of physics and security how you want it to hinge. If you do it stock, F5 says to just use the two small screws in the leading drip edge to secure the plate to the body and three screws to the radiator top cross bar. In that respect, when you raise the hood, the weight and hinge section is supported mainly by the body with little help from the rear screws, making the entire hinge plate a "hinge". I added a cross bar welded in (as shown) which supports my entire hood to the chassis. I only use two small screws to located the hinge plate to the body. All depends on what you want to do. I've had my car on the road and track for over 19 years without a hood problem, even using the original hood "J" loop as you have. Hope this helps.

    IMG_3353.JPG

    IMG_3355.JPG

    IMG_3356.JPG
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  7. #7
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    What Weendoggy did by welding in a brace is the recommended procedure as the F5 install suggestions state that, the plate that pivots the "J hinge" pieces is screwed to the body - that's a stress point and will eventually crack the body at the mount points.

    Look at pictures of the later Breeze mount retrofit pieces and you'll see that Mark uses that same welded (or bolted in) brace for his kit. Without proper support (a brace) hood will bounce at highway speeds. It's doing so because the J hinges are made of 5/8" HOLLOW tube instead of solid bars (Breeze) and are "flexible" and they depend on the body to be unmovable - it's not.

    Mine came with a complete hoop from F5, not just the front "U" mount so I didn't need to weld anything. Bonded in the rear, bolted and bonded in front.

    GREAT! mod Weendoggy . . .

    Doc
    Last edited by Big Blocker; 05-01-2018 at 01:31 PM.
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

  8. #8
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    Thanks again guys, this is great information. Looks like I just need to make a modification to the horseshoe to align with the crossbar of the body. Maybe reinforce it too. I have the full frame from F5 so I'll plan on bonding that to the hood too.

    Here are some pics of it laying in place.IMG_1781.jpgIMG_1782.jpg
    Last edited by jsncrlsn; 05-02-2018 at 09:13 AM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsncrlsn View Post
    Thanks again guys, this is great information. Looks like I just need to make a modification to the horseshoe to align with the crossbar of the body. Maybe reinforce it too. I have the full frame from F5 so I'll plan on bonding that to the hood too.

    Here are some pics of it laying in place.IMG_1781.jpgIMG_1782.jpg
    One thing you may want to do is to use a couple of SM screws to hold the frame to the hood. Then you can take the hood off, laminate (or your choice) and fill the holes and finish the hood.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by weendoggy View Post
    One thing you may want to do is to use a couple of SM screws to hold the frame to the hood. Then you can take the hood off, laminate (or your choice) and fill the holes and finish the hood.
    Ah, good thought. That way ensure alignment before bonding. Makes sense.

  11. #11
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    I noticed this post is a bit old (I am a new member). Having a MKII also, I noticed substantial hood movement aft area of hood during aggressive driving/track use. I installed a simple "centering pin" on hood underside and engine compartment lip that the hood rests into. Keeps the hood from sliding left/right when you are "having fun". Though I would share the tip with you.

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