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Thread: Build Question MK4

  1. #1
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    Build Question MK4

    All, I'm at the point in my build where the manual is talking about installing floor panels. Would it be better to install brake and fuel lines first before putting down the panels ? I'm thinking I loose easy access to the frame once those panels are in

    Anything else I should be doing too before those panels are in ?

    Thanks
    Mark
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here

  2. #2
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
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    My opinion: wait as long as you can before you install the aluminum. You are correct that once those panels are in place, you'll have to do a lot from underneath the car. I have found it much easier to work on everything without the floor panels in yet. Finish off the panels in the engine bay before you install the engine, but wait on other aluminum.
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
    Complete kit / 2015 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS / Wilwood brakes / Mid-Shift mod / Power Steering / Heater and Seat Heaters / RT turn signal / Breeze radiator shroud and mount

  3. #3
    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I didn't silicon & rivet my panels until after my first summer of driving in gel-coat. I drove to London Cobra Show with sheet metal screws every other hole (860 mile round trip).
    No reason to be in a hurry. You can do it before you install your carpet, while your body is being painted.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

  4. #4
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    What they said!!
    FFR 5136 Started as a donor...donor guages, engine, trans,etc. Now...TFS street intake,stage 1 cam, GT40p's,24# injectors and 80mm MAF,70mm TB,Z-spec t-5, and PSE Halibrand wrapped with Nitto 555 G2’s. My ever evolving dream car!!

  5. #5
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    I install the driver front panel first. Make sure you use the correct one. Also make sure the passengers foot box in in before the motor goes in, the rest can wait.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  6. #6
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    That's basically where I am at this point. Driver front wall is in, passenger footbox is in, but outer wall is temporary. Manual was saying floors next...
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here

  7. #7
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    Cleco them all in so you can pull various panels out as needed for access.

  8. #8
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    Do absolutely everything you can without panels in. Try not to rivet them in until you are at the point where you can’t do the next step until it is in place.
    Read someone post ages ago that installing panels is the most mindles part of the build, and he saved it for when he need a break from the harder parts of the build. I would agree and tried to do the same.

    Just don’t put them on permanently until you absolutely have to and you should be good. Definitely you should have fully functional brakes fuel line, rolling chassis, possibly engine in before floors and rear cockpit aluminum goes in.

  9. #9
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    Oh and make sure upper trunk goes in before rear cockpit wall, manual was out of order on that, and the small side trunk panels before the big outside ones, also manual out of order

  10. #10

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    1. Consider running the rear wiring harness before you install the trunk floor and fuel tank.
    2. Also, you may want to drill the roll bar mounts before you install rear the cockpit aluminum.
    3. All of the plumbing; fuel, brakes, and hydraulic clutch lines were done after the aluminum was in place with minimal fuss.

  11. #11
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone for the feedback! At this point, only the passenger footbox is permanent along with the driver footbox front wall.
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here

  12. #12
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murd View Post
    Oh and make sure upper trunk goes in before rear cockpit wall, manual was out of order on that, and the small side trunk panels before the big outside ones, also manual out of order
    This is the one that I really consider a necessity. I didn't and it was a real pain drilling and riveting the upper trunk floor.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al_C View Post
    My opinion: wait as long as you can before you install the aluminum. You are correct that once those panels are in place, you'll have to do a lot from underneath the car. I have found it much easier to work on everything without the floor panels in yet. Finish off the panels in the engine bay before you install the engine, but wait on other aluminum.
    I agree with the comments regarding waiting as long as you can, and it paid off for me. A recent flywheel change was a lot easier coming from the top of the car, and I was able to because of the aluminum removal. Also, agree with the comment about drilling holes in the roll bar mounts before aluminum install. Just did that one myself. If it's your first build (as it is mine) the longer you can wait, the better off I think you'll be.

    Happy building,
    Dave
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  14. #14

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Also, consider doing the "Coupler Nut Trick" for your rear quick jack/bumper bolts.
    It keeps you from dropping the fuel tank to stick those suckers in.

  15. #15
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    Also, consider doing the "Coupler Nut Trick" for your rear quick jack/bumper bolts.
    It keeps you from dropping the fuel tank to stick those suckers in.
    Do you have a link to the "Coupler Nut Trick" ?
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here

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