Body Work/Prep 'Allowed' Before Painting?

[cv2065]

I've been exploring the paint side of the equation lately, and have confirmed what many have said around painting and bodywork, which is that many painters won't guarantee their work if they don't do the bodywork as well, which is completely understandable. If I were a painter, I probably wouldn't either.

That being said, what kind of body prep can I do that will shave some hours off of the final job before it goes to the painter without getting into anything that would affect a painter's warranty? I'm assuming that maybe roughing the entire body up, sanding the seams and maybe even filling them is not out of bounds?

[Papa]

I would not do any filler, primer, or any chemical application whatsoever without at least coordinating with your painter. Applying the wrong product will likely cause your painter more hours removing it than if you hadn't done anything at all. I plan to knock down the mold ridges and that's it.

[edwardb]

Your biggest opportunity for sweat equity savings is to clean up the body edges all around, the openings, get it mounted on the chassis, fit and hinge the doors, hood and trunk lid, mock up every single thing that attaches to the body. Includes all the lights, windshield, fitting the side pipes, bumpers, etc. My rule is nothing touches the body after paint that wasn't fitted and mocked up before paint. I wouldn't worry about the parting lines (aka "seams") because the painter will knock those off in about five minutes. I also wouldn't try to fill them. Standard rule is no product should be on the body.

Now, having said that, it has to be done right. With all due respect (and I say this to everyone because it was said to me...) you have the opportunity to increase costs by messing things up. A pro who's done these builds before can do what I described in a couple days, plus or minus. They could spend much more time than that fixing it if it's done poorly.

Note I've done the above on all of my builds. It's a lot of work for an amateur like me, but has turned out OK. I've told this story a number of times. My first Roadster when I explained to the painter what I wanted to do, he said fine but wouldn't give me the final quote until after I delivered it to him with my work done. He said it was "mostly OK" and saved him maybe 14-16 hours. Needless to say, I had way more time in it than that. The other two, I just waited until after I had done my work to go for the quote. Planning the same approach for the Coupe.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Jeff da' bat Miller, Ken "Streetrodpainter" Pike and I were just having this conversation last week. It's unanimous---as I've said to customers as well as on the forums I'd rather get them completely untouched. Just within the last few weeks I've gotten into a couple of them that the owners did some trimming and fitting which actually caused issues for me. I won't speak for the other two (although I have a pretty good idea what their answer would be) but my price is the same whether the owner has attempted to do preliminary work or left it exactly as it came off the truck.

Jeff

[cv2065]

Thanks guys. That helps. Guess I'll just get everything to mounted to fit and leave the rest to the professionals.

[j.miller]

A tip for you my friend. !. Trim even amounts off all edges. 2. When you put the part in place to be trimmed, look at the backside as well. (This is so you don't trim to much off any one edge and find you have inner panels hitting the jambs). #3 (most important) Have a shot of rum after trimming each edge.........4....by now the gaps should be looking pretty good !,,,,and if they don't, WHO CARES ! till the next morning. &7. Do not bond any brackets to the fiberglass IE hood hinge brackets, door latch spacers....etc (you will be taking away any chance of adding adjustment if you need it. OH! The rivets that come with the hood hinge brackets are too short. You need 3/16 X 5/8ths long to get through the bracket, fiberglass and aluminum mounting pad. You should have some in your kit.....da Bat.......MORE RUM !!

[cv2065]

A tip for you my friend. !. Trim even amounts off all edges. 2. When you put the part in place to be trimmed, look at the backside as well. (This is so you don't trim to much off any one edge and find you have inner panels hitting the jambs). #3 (most important) Have a shot of rum after trimming each edge.........4....by now the gaps should be looking pretty good !,,,,and if they don't, WHO CARES ! till the next morning. &7. Do not bond any brackets to the fiberglass IE hood hinge brackets, door latch spacers....etc (you will be taking away any chance of adding adjustment if you need it. OH! The rivets that come with the hood hinge brackets are too short. You need 3/16 X 5/8ths long to get through the bracket, fiberglass and aluminum mounting pad. You should have some in your kit.....da Bat.......MORE RUM !!

Thank you sir! I'll have to substitute a little Jack for the Captain and then chase with a box of pizza...It's a car party...

[Mark Eaton]

Miller! thanks for the excellent advise and I'll be substituting the true elixir of life (tequila) for the rum. Incidentally, since you and I talked in HB my wife has talked me out of doing my own paint and body work and instead hauling that thing down to So Cal to ... da Bat!! She knows me better than anyone and pointed out that I am WAY to impatient and will DEFINITELY screw it up.

So... gives me an excuse to buy a trailer because I'm not putting it on a damn Uhaul. More tequila!!

[j.miller]

I just don't know what to say....Ya try ta do a good thing, share your knowledge , impart a bit of wisdom and life lessons.....I specifically said "RUM" and here you have two jackwagons going with "Jack" and "tequila" . I SWEAR !You can just sit here on this forum and watch a North bound freight train jump the track and head East down a gravel road. It's like playing cards with my brothers kids !...da Bat

[flynntuna]

Speaking of Rum ,�� have you tried Tahitian Rum? Very good.��

[q4stix]

As a slight deviation from the conversation, what body modifications like changing the shape of the fender flares, moulding in a splitter element like Blown 5.0's Cobra, etc? Can we glass elements in? Is there a material preference or restricted materials?

[SDhemmings]

I have found that a nice single malt Scotch has assisted me well so far in the build. Once I get to body work I will by buying a case and storing it in the Garage!