Hello from the Middle East or good bye from the Middle East

[gnd_hog]

Wrapping up 4.5 Years working in Saudi Arabia coming this December - more than ready to get back home to Houston and just be home.

Contemplating 3 different builds (will pick just one based on inputs and gut feel eventually) for when I get back to good ole USA.

Picked the engine/tranny combo I want based on a lot of factors - mostly speed and durability. Saudi’s been good to me so need something to spend all this excess cash on.....lol

Going with Edelbrock’s supercharged 5.0 Coyote crate motor - full accessories and electronics, 785 HP and 660 torque - will be a twister.

Since I’ve gotten old and lazy - an automatic is in the plan - a Lentech 6R80 rated for 1200+ HP with a Quick 6 pro controller - and very nice torque converter from Circle D Specialities right here in Houston - well right there at home in H-Town. Paddle shrifters from Twist Machines - with some sort of floor shifter. Looking to get into competitive track/strip racing with this car.

Build will be all about Performance so contemplating either std MK4 or Challenge Car or straight up ‘33 hot rod - based on which will be best setup to keep all that power in check for both playing at dragstrip or track.

Fitting the 6R80 in will require some customization in any of those kits - but should be worth it in the end. Caught up on more than a couple of threads here about the 6R80 tranny behind a coyote.

So inputs on which way should best route to go to put some new technology into some old school looking cars mush appreciated. Leaning to Challenge car at moment as frame should be the most rigid of the three choices.

[NAZ]

Whichever car you pick that will be awesome power. And speaking of all that power; if you truly are looking to drag race your car that will easily put you in an ET / speed bracket that will require some serious modifications or risk getting kicked off the track after your first pass. That much power is fun but not practical for a street only car so you're going to be very disappointed if you can't blast down the track to "see what she'll do" every now and then. I'm just wrapping up a street legal race car build in the form of a FFR 33 Hot Rod and can tell you that you can forget about letting all that HP loose on the strip with a FFR chassis, or any other FFR chassis for that matter. That much power in a light car will easily break deep into the nine's and all NHRA affiliated tracks will require a certified roll cage and a whole list of other mods to go with it. And the FFR chassis on most if not all their cars will not meet the minimum requirements to weld a roll cage to. So if you're serious about running your car on the strip better get an NHRA rulebook and start studying it closely. And the more mods you do to your "kit car" the more it will cost you and the longer it will take.

So plan ahead and have fun with your build.

[gnd_hog]

The challenge car frame should meet roll cage requirements - anyone have any experience here dealing with NHRA requirements? Most of rules that went through quickly don’t look too bad - once roll cage issue is cleared up.

Spent several years drag racing Harley’s - had a ‘99 FXST that wasn’t too shabby - one of the first B motors to hit the strip at the time.....rules are rules, just have to understand and follow them....

And yes low 9’s is target.....maybe with Nitrious adder - high 8’s.....

[NAZ]

I've spent the last two-years becoming intimately familiar with NHRA rules and working with my Division's Tech guru while building my car.

Search the net for NHRAracer.com and on the left side you will find a link to the rules. You have to be a member to view all of them but I think a visitor can view the ET section and the general requirements section where you will find rules on roll cages. I believe I have the only FFR car with an NHRA certified roll cage for 8.5-second and slower. If you want to get an idea of what I had to do to achieve that go to the Album Gallery and look for FFR 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage. The biggest challenge is meeting the frame requirements that the roll cage is welded to. The frame has to be either 1.625"x.118" round tubing (mild steel) or 2"x2"x.058" rectangular steel tubing minimum. Note that if the car is a open cockpit or convertible you'll need a full funny car cage and that's just not practical on a street car. Oh, and the minimum frame standards also apply to a simple roll bar but roll bars don't need a certification but they do have to pass a tech inspection each time you go to the track.

[Clover]

Congratulations for finishing up over there. I tried to move overseas for work right after college but that did not work out to well for me. At least it was a good learning experience for me but I sure wish I came home with a pocket full of money like you.

I don't think you listed the kit, so maybe you are not interested in it but I would think the Type 65 Coupe-R may be a good starting point. It has a full cage that I know is approved for SCCA and NASA wheel to wheel racing. It also has the added benefit of a bit longer wheel base. I have never dragged raced any factory five car, however, they seem to be traction limited to me so the longer wheel base may help.

[NAZ]

Clover, the Type 65R is the next car I want to build. It is a very cool looking car that should make a very fast track car and awesome street machine (but not a drag racer). The cage is supposed to be SCCA compliant but that won't help you with NHRA -- different rules and NHRA would not cert a roll cage built to SCCA minimum standards as the min tube size and cage configurations are different. Also the Coupe has a 17" shorter wheelbase than the 33 Hot Rod and is ~150 lbs heavier. But traction is not wheelbase dependent, it has more to do with tires and suspension set-up. But wheelbase has a big effect on weight transfer under acceleration. And a 2500 lb 33 Hot Rod (weight includes a 200 lb driver) with 660 lb feet of torque that will run in the low nines would accelerate at more than 2.3-G's and transfer more than 1000 lbs to the rear axle (depending on the CG height) -- and that would be a wild street car for sure. A 2650 lb 65R with the same engine, driver, and CG height would launch at 2.2-G's and transfer 200 lbs more to the rear axle. So I expect I could set-up either wheelbase to hook up with the proper suspension adjustment. But the 33 Hot Rod would be a better choice for a drag racer.

[gnd_hog]

Per FFR - the coupe R is their stiffest frame - I will be doing far more NASA events than NHRA or even taking car to dragstrip on a regular basis. Looks like NASA SU class for sure......so I know what races there....

Working with outside builder to fine tune all the build details before kicking off this project.

Coupe-R with all the bells and whistles for track racing - drive Train setup looks to be Coyote paired with 6R80 - supercharged engine with stand alone controllers for both engine and transmission. 1000 HP will be within reach....

[gnd_hog]

FFR 65 Coupe-R kit selections below

60459 powder coat
60360 gauges
15440 coyote engine/trans mounts
60375 driveshaft - will need modified
60330 traced only cut outs
14262 std seat - will replace
16138 PS kit - but not needed
12066 std front control arms
60738 2015 IRS kit
15946 AODe adapter to IRS
60627 spoiler
60621 nose ducts
60622 rear ducts
15830 wipers
16563 battery cut off - weatherproof
16116 front sway bar
15998 IRS rear sway bar
60372 aero vents
15432 coyote accelerator kit
16237 IRS rear brake kit


IRS Center, spindles and hubs 3.27 ratio from LR

Optional parts from FFR
60472 - type 65 front aero bumper
80844 - 818 front canards
80718 - 818 carbon fiber front splitter


Ford coyote crate 9.5 to 1 CR part # M-6007-A50SCA

twin turbos 62mm - with custom exhaust

AEM Infinity series 7 ECM
100+ lb/hr injectors

Lentech 6R80 1200 HP build
Quick 6 Pro controller
cooler fitting adapter kit

SPI spec flex plate

Lokar ESS6R80HB 4” floor shifter -

Twist machines shrifter - steering wheel mount D9 paddles black polished with 6 bolt adapter

Circle D specialities - 258mm Pro billet 1C converter with 3 disk lock up, 3000-3200 stall

Wheels 18x9(?) front and 18x11(?)rear
Volk racing lightweight

Tires Toyo Proxes R888 295/30 R18 front and 335/30 R18 rear

Billet front control arms from LR

EPAS Electric power steering variable assist from JEGS #563-1012
Wilwood brakes from LR
Shocks from LR
Dry sump oil system from LR
Hayden trans cooler from LR - bypass model 11x11
Sparco Ergo seat X2 - from LR
Sparco R 353 steering wheel
Fuel cell with EFI pickup and fuel deliver system (pump, regular, filter) from LR
Paint and misc. from LR

Motor will be set up like this one 3 maps to flip flop out - gas, E85, race fuel

http://www.mustangandfords.com/proje...coyote-part-2/

Levy Racing doing build - about to give him green light to go - comments?

[gtaroger]

Welcome back! I will be watching for your build. Roger

[tcollins]

Look up Nolan Wright...he has a type 65 coupe with a supercharged Coyote and is from Texas. Just met him at HB, very cool car...it was the original FF prototype with a new chassis.

Nolan Wright.JPG

[gnd_hog]

Will definitely look up Nolan - I’m all about leveraging good things others have done and also learning what not to do......

I see a MTB in your profile pic - I am not long removed Cat 2 racer on the road and on the track.....needless to say, will just be riding to stay fit for some new kinda of racing.....

Also there’s a build thread in the 65 coupe forum that’s been started.