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Thread: Holley HP EFI help needed - BACKFIRE

  1. #1
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Holley HP EFI help needed - BACKFIRE

    Does anyone have experience with this system? The car starts and idles but when RPM's come up it starts backfiring and missing. Mice got into the engine harness. I've inspected the harness engine to computer and repaired chewed sensor wires. The throttle body has 2 electrical connections to it and the wires are unaffected, as far as I can tell.

    I need to connect diagnostics to the system, which I've never done. What software and hardware is needed?

    Does anyone have an online training reference?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  2. #2
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    There are no diagnostics for the Holley. Connect a laptop and use the software (free) to view the system.

    What type of fuel system? Stacks? TB? Is the timing controlled by the HP? When you connect the laptop check your fuel map and do some data logging to capture the problem, especially if you can replicate it.

    It's a good system and should be able to find the problem, even if it's just a tuning issue.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  3. #3
    bobl's Avatar
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    I have quite a bit of experience with this system. I’m Currently running it on my stack injection system. First thing to do is download the software to your laptop. Go to Holley.com support HP efi. You also will need access to the ecu to plug in a usb cable. Once you have the software installed, the help section will have tons of information and wiring diagrams. There are several versions of firmware available. I’m guessing you have V2 or maybe V3. V4 is pretty new. Once you get one installed and connect to the ECU you can view what version is installed and make sure you have the correct one. Next would be to view all the sensors and make sure everything looks correct. If nothing is obvious make a data log as you run it. If you want you can email it to me and I’ll look it over. I’ll be happy to walk you through things over the phone if you want to give me a call once you get the software downloaded. 512 6590706.

    Bob Lloyd
    Last edited by bobl; 05-07-2018 at 11:20 PM.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

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    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Do you have the hand controller that came with the system, and if so, what type? Is it the small 2x3" unit or the 3x5" LCD. If you have the small unit, the latest software (ver. 4) will not work with that and you'll need to use the laptop and upgrade the firmware unless you know what version is on the ECU. You'll know if it's an issue because if you use ver. 4 software and the ECU is less, it'll give you an error message telling you so. If you know the ECU version, d/l the correct software version from www.holley.com Also, don't forget to do a TPS auto reset if you upgrade the software on the ECU. The engine won't start until you do.

    Another quick check is to put the ECU in Open Loop. If the engine seems to run fine, it's a sign the O2 sensor is bad. You have to be sure your AF table is in good shape and I'm guessing the car ran fine before. This is kind of a limp in mode so if your AF table is good and the learning has been done, the engine should run pretty good. Then, get a new O2 sensor (some are proprietary from Holley). Be sure to put the ECU in closed loop when done.
    Last edited by weendoggy; 05-08-2018 at 07:56 AM.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  5. #5
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Have you found the issue?
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I'm coming at this from zero experience so please bear with me.

    I had to do some digging but found the CD that came with the EFI. It is version 2.2.0.3. The ECU has never been updated.

    Is there an upgrade path I need to follow or should I just install the software I have?

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  7. #7
    bobl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    I'm coming at this from zero experience so please bear with me.

    I had to do some digging but found the CD that came with the EFI. It is version 2.2.0.3. The ECU has never been updated.

    Is there an upgrade path I need to follow or should I just install the software I have?
    Install from the CD. It should match the version that's in the ECU. You can update any of it from the Holley site if you later want to. What you have should work and allow you to diagnose your problem.

    Bob
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I don’t have a CD player in my laptop so I downloaded and installed version 2.2.0.4 from Holley. I’ll hook it up to the ECU tomorrow I get my first readings.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  9. #9
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    I don’t have a CD player in my laptop so I downloaded and installed version 2.2.0.4 from Holley. I’ll hook it up to the ECU tomorrow I get my first readings.

    If the ECU is OK, you just load the software on your laptop and connect to the ECU.

    Have your laptop plugged into power when doing so if the ECU has to be reflashed with software/firmware. The firmware is in the d/l file. Hopefully the "mouse" problem didn't turn the ECU into a brick. You can use a regular mini-USB cord to connect to the ECU. Once done, the two should talk. If you have to reload the firmware as described from scratch, you will NOT have any tune saved in the ECU. You'll have to start with a saved one (hopefully you did that) or maybe start with a pre-programmed one that's close to your engine specs.

    I guess I should ask if you have the Stealth, Terminator or Sniper. The Sniper uses it's own software and is not the same as the HP line. i.e. separate ECU=HP EFI : attached ECU=Sniper

    If you need extra help, let me know.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  10. #10
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I got a chance this weekend to hook up the ECU to my laptop.

    First "error" I got was this:



    But I was still able to sync to the ECU and download it's settings.

    As has been the case during this, the car started right up with no throttle input and idled, seemly ok, but with a little backfire fart right when it lit. Subsequent starts didn't do this.

    I then captured this on my gauge screen:



    Fuel Pressure from the harness is not hooked up. Oil pressure currently goes directly to the gauge.

    I sent the images to Bob Lloyd (BobL) and we had a conversation about it. He mentioned the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) reading -40 F(!) and he mentioned that the reading would cause all sorts of havoc once the engine was anywhere but off idle. He suggested I change the mapping on the Coolant Temperature enrichment table to 100% across the board. At -40 the mapping was set to 150%.

    Now the mapping looks like this:


    He also suggested the plugs are probably fouled. I'll pull one or more tonight to check.

    I'm hoping this will fix the issue, but I need to get 2 sensors into the system, that aren't hooked up yet for some reason. Also, in speaking with both Bob and Mike forte, I'm not sure that the fixed I made for the sensor wiring is good enough. So even if the motor fires and runs correctly now, I'm going to still replace the harness.

    I also want to integrate the sensor that is causing the issue, but there doesn't seem to be a port for it. Bob mentioned that the ECU should be driving the fan but I think it is currently being driven by a 2 wire harness sensor? I need to figure out what's going on there to see if the engine harness coolant sensor needs to be used instead? <-- notice the question mark

    Thanks Bob for your help this weekend! Hopefully I'm now on a path back to a working roadster (well this one anyway. I haven't ripped out ol' 5369's ECU yet to see what's going on there, but that's a different thread)

    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 05-21-2018 at 01:01 PM.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  11. #11
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Researching the Coolant Temperature sensor, I see this on Holley's site:



    I have that 2 wire set up in the car already. I thought one of the 2 unused 3-wires sensors was used for this?



    (the other is grey/orange/black)

    Time to break out the schematic...

    EDIT Grey wire plug is Oil Pressure, Purple wire plug is Fuel Pressure...

    I wonder if I wired the coolant sensor backwards??
    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 05-21-2018 at 03:00 PM.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  12. #12
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Hi David,

    You need two coolant temperature sensors. One drives your temperature gauge, and the other feeds information to the Sniper system. Because the sensor provides a temperature-dependent resistance, you can't just piggy back off a single sensor.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Hi David,

    You need two coolant temperature sensors. One drives your temperature gauge, and the other feeds information to the Sniper system. Because the sensor provides a temperature-dependent resistance, you can't just piggy back off a single sensor.


    John
    I have 3. Gauge, CTS, Fan(?)

    On the passenger side the black/white wired one is the gauge.

    The yellow/black I believe is going into the Ron Francis harness to drive the cooling fan



    You can see the line repairs on the one on the driver's side. I believe this is the CTS plug (brown wire)

    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 05-21-2018 at 06:00 PM.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  14. #14
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    For you EFI gurus, how do you feel about this as the fuel pressure sensor?
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/554-102


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  15. #15
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    That's what I have. Works great
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Cobra Colorist. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017

  16. #16
    bobl's Avatar
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    Yes definitely use the Holley sensor. It's a direct plug and play.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    For you EFI gurus, how do you feel about this as the fuel pressure sensor?
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/554-102

    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  17. #17
    bobl's Avatar
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    The Holley wiring color code is brown for the CTS signal and black/white for the sensor ground. So the sensor you spliced the wires on appears to be the CTS. There has to be an open in the harness somewhere. Maybe the splice? I think it would still read ok if the wires were reversed since it is just reading resistance.

    Bob
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  18. #18
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobl View Post
    The Holley wiring color code is brown for the CTS signal and black/white for the sensor ground. So the sensor you spliced the wires on appears to be the CTS. There has to be an open in the harness somewhere. Maybe the splice? I think it would still read ok if the wires were reversed since it is just reading resistance.

    Bob
    NO, it won't still read because you're sending the "sensor signal" directly to the "sensor ground out" of all the other sensors. This will have effect on the other sensors. You MUST fix the wiring first.

    FYI, you don't need to run either the fuel or oil senders, the system will just give you the ERR message. It does't effect operation. It is a good idea to install the fuel pressure sensor because you will see what the pressure is if you use a screen (easier) or laptop (must be connected all the time).
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I pulled a plug before starting last night:



    Fouled?

    I also get this when I first attempt to connect to the ecu. What does it mean?:



    After I sync by pulling or pushing the tune from the ecu they all go green.

    I also ended up going over all the tables to try and zero out all the cooling parameters. Don't worry, I saved a copy to work with. I got to witness the changes and their effects on the motor but in the end I decided I was wasting my time. I need to fix that sensor. So this AM I'm on the Holley site looking for either plug parts or a new plug if it has at least a 1' lead.



    PS I've uploaded the wiring schematic but it's too obnoxious to post. Here's a LINK.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  20. #20
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Grrr. Backordered until next month:
    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/570-215

    I'll head down to the local electronics shop and see if they have those pins.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  21. #21
    bobl's Avatar
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    I believe that is a standard GM type plug. You can find them online or at some part stores.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  22. #22
    bobl's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=weendoggy;326326]NO, it won't still read because you're sending the "sensor signal" directly to the "sensor ground out" of all the other sensors. This will have effect on the other sensors. You MUST fix the wiring first.

    I respectfully disagree with this. The CTS just reads resistance and is not grounded to the block. When running an engine on the dyno, I have on many occasions inserted a resistor into the connector to fake a temp reading to the ecu. Polarity does not matter.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  23. #23
    bobl's Avatar
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    That plug is seriously fouled. I would replace all of them.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    I pulled a plug before starting last night:



    Fouled?

    I also get this when I first attempt to connect to the ecu. What does it mean?:



    After I sync by pulling or pushing the tune from the ecu they all go green.

    I also ended up going over all the tables to try and zero out all the cooling parameters. Don't worry, I saved a copy to work with. I got to witness the changes and their effects on the motor but in the end I decided I was wasting my time. I need to fix that sensor. So this AM I'm on the Holley site looking for either plug parts or a new plug if it has at least a 1' lead.



    PS I've uploaded the wiring schematic but it's too obnoxious to post. Here's a LINK.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  24. #24
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    You can get them here. Make your own, or buy one with pigtails. NOTE: These are a pull-to-seat. Meaning, the wire goes in from the back, connect the terminal and pull the terminal "back" into the plug.

    https://www.eficonnection.com/home/p...tri-pack-150-2

    https://www.eficonnection.com/home/p...nector-pigtail

    You should also UPDATE the firmware.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  25. #25
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobl View Post
    That plug is seriously fouled. I would replace all of them.
    I thought so, and picked up a set of platinum Autolites yesterday. Still need to gap them, and I want to fix the sensor before installing them.

    Thanks!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  26. #26
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by weendoggy View Post
    .../You should also UPDATE the firmware.
    I'll do that today, after checking to see if my local supplier has those pins. Thanks for the link!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  27. #27
    Senior Member weendoggy's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=bobl;326353]
    Quote Originally Posted by weendoggy View Post
    NO, it won't still read because you're sending the "sensor signal" directly to the "sensor ground out" of all the other sensors. This will have effect on the other sensors. You MUST fix the wiring first.

    I respectfully disagree with this. The CTS just reads resistance and is not grounded to the block. When running an engine on the dyno, I have on many occasions inserted a resistor into the connector to fake a temp reading to the ecu. Polarity does not matter.
    I'll agree with you as long as the other sensors aren't connected to the same circuit return. If he did his wire correction before the ECU, it won't be correct.
    I'm just a victim of a thousand physic wars!
    www.weendoggy.com/cobra.htm

  28. #28
    bobl's Avatar
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    I think I would hold off on the firmware update until you get it running correctly. It ran before so it should not need the update to run again. Otherwise if it still doesn't run correctly you won't know if the firmware update introduced a problem or it already existed. Once it runs as before definitely update everything.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    I'll do that today, after checking to see if my local supplier has those pins. Thanks for the link!

    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  29. #29
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    How do I remove the pins?

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  30. #30
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Success!

    Today I sourced a new plug and spliced it into the harness.



    I used ferrells that stepped from the pigtail 16 gauge wire to the 22 gauge harness wire. I put 2 layers of heat shrink tubing to make sure everything is sealed:



    ...and I immediately got a proper CTS reading when the software synced!:



    So I fired her up with the fouled plugs still installed. She wants to run!

    https://youtu.be/VV3bX4MfDdI

    Then I installed new Autolite platinum plugs and fired her again:

    https://youtu.be/lXYNwKJljr4

    I'm testing her tomorrow and it's looking good!

    THANK YOU EVERYONE!

    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 05-26-2018 at 12:26 AM.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  31. #31
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Glad you got the issues sorted; congratulations!


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage

  32. #32
    bobl's Avatar
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    Good deal. Glad you got it sorted out.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  33. #33
    Forte's Parts Connection
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    Good news David,
    Was the pigtail not making a good connection? If so I should report this to Holley.
    I hope you have it cured.
    Mike Forte: Forte's Parts Connection / Framingham, Mass. 01702 / 508 875 0016 / [email protected] / www.fortesparts.com / Facebook Instagram: @fortespartconnection Est: 1981 dealing performance parts to build your dream car. A REAL SPEED SHOP with parts, price & knowledge. Developer of the early Ford & FE Tremec and Mustang firewall adjustable quadrant kits, external slave clutch release conversions & cable release conversions. Tremec Elite, FORD RACING & QUICKTIME DISTRIBUTOR!

  34. #34
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Not TOTALLY sorted.

    I still have a backfire coming from the driver's side. Exhaust gasket?

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  35. #35
    Itchief's Avatar
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    I would check the firing order just to verify that nothing got changed when you replaced the spark plugs

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  36. #36
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Rick, the wires are marked but I'll double-check. The backfire happens usually at idle or just off. It DOES NOT happen during deceleration.

    It happens randomly, between just a few seconds and a minute-plus. Always on the driver's side.

    Here are some screenshots for the experts to interpret:







    Last edited by David Hodgkins; 05-28-2018 at 07:10 PM.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  37. #37
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    David

    If the firing order is correct and looking at your spark plug how long has it been since you replaced your ignition wires

    You may have one cylinder that is not firing properly and the unburned fuel is igniting in the exhaust causing the backfire

    Try using a multimeter to check the resistance of the ignition wires on the drivers side to see if they are all close to the same resistance if one is a lot higher than the others that may be causing your problem

    Good luck

    Rick
    Last edited by Itchief; 05-28-2018 at 09:09 PM.
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

  38. #38
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    Glad to see you figured out the data logger. I assume that the backfire occurred during these logs? I don't see anything that jumps out. Does it pop out the exhaust just idling? I would check the timing with a light. You should be able to enable static timing from the menu or at least make sure the light agrees with the display. The distributor could be slightly out of phase.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  39. #39
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Doesn't the ignition timing look out of whack?

    I think I'll do as you suggest Bob and have a look with a light. I hate breaking out the light b/c it's hard to find a 12v post but if I'm careful I should be able to hang the positive light connector off the starter...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  40. #40
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    Timing shows to be around 25 in the timing table and on the dash display. I can't tell from the data log snapshot. If you want, email me the datalogs you have and I'll study them. I don't normally run near that much timing at idle but if it ran good before then I would be looking elsewhere for a problem. [email protected]
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 3.55 gears, Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

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