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Thread: Potential First-Time Builder

  1. #1
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    Potential First-Time Builder

    Hey Everyone,

    I'm excited to start this journey of building our FFR cobra and have no idea where to even begin. I have more questions that i know to ask and trying to find someone local or within a couple hours drive that I can meet, see their build, and ask all the questions. Of course if anyone has advice I'm happy to hear it! Biggest question is to go Complete Kit or just the Base Kit...not sure which direction to go for a donor car if i go that route. Is it cheaper to go with a donor? Anyway, I have a ton of question and look forward to meeting everyone, thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member shark92651's Avatar
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    Where is local for you? Most likely there will be at least one member here or a club that is close to you. I decided to go complete kit and all new parts, but I don't really have space for a donor and would rather build a brand new car, at a higher cost, than to go through the extra work of pulling parts from a donor. Everyone needs to evaluate their own situation, goals, and budget however. Welcome to the forum.

  3. #3
    Senior Member bil1024's Avatar
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    Depending on the donor, always cheaper to go base / donor if budget is a concern, I've done 3 donors and managed to keep in budget

  4. #4
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Welcome! Check these threads. They address some of the key points:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Complete-Kit

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...nybody-do-both

    Let us know your location. I'm sure there are owners/builders near you willing to entertain a visit.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  5. #5
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I've built both. It really comes down to how closely you plan to stick to the "recipe" and whether your priority is weighted more to time and convenience or dollars and cents. An additional factor is the builder's level of experience and familiarity with all of the components and processes involved. Personally I think the complete kit is a better bet for a less experienced builder however even for those who are beginning with a broader base of automotive background if you don't stray too far into upgrade land leaving many of it's standard parts unused the complete kit makes a lot of sense. With the complete kit package all of the parts WILL work together right out of the box. What I mean by that is over the years we've seen lots of guys waste time &/or money on what they thought was great deal on a donor or components only to discover that the parts they found do not work together or with the chassis. When FFR says "complete" they really mean it; all the way down to some of the small and simple stuff such as horns, starter solenoid, hoses & clamps. For some the hunt is part of the fun if you have the time and knowledge about what you're shopping for but just to keep apples to apples remember, when you're looking at sourcing parts and components elsewhere be sure to factor in shipping charges &/or the cost of your fuel to chase around town getting them. The time involved to do so is perhaps not so much of an issue when building for yourself but is something I have to consider when I'm building for a customer and in that situation the scales definitely tip in favor of the complete kit. When you take it all in the overall end cost differential is pretty minimal.

    Choosing a donor if you opt to go that route is a whole different topic for another thread but in my opinion unless you are able to come across an exceptional car to use it is not the viable option that it was "back in the day"; basically the bulk of the compatible cars (even the mod-motor versions) are getting pretty long in the tooth and most of the harvested components & parts would be in need of significant rehabbing.

    Jeff

  6. #6
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    You may want to consider a weekend at the Build School in Howell MI. ALL your questions should be answered and you should be able to come away with a complete build plan. Money well spent.

  7. #7
    Senior Member gtaroger's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum. Roger

  8. #8
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forums!

    I started with a donor and eventually did a complete 180 and my only "Donor" parts is Cobra brakes with one track day on them (Basically new, lol) and a custom built rear end with one day on it. OOPS!

    BUDGET: Hard to stay on. Lots of unknowns and items you add. If you go COYOTE, don't forget the install kit comes with 2 pages of items you still need to buy so plan to spend another $2-3K.

    I am glad I went "donor" because I've recouped about $3,000 on selling the used parts and shell, but I'm happy I'm almost all new parts.

    It's really up to you. Let us know where you're from and ask away! Good Luck and God Bless man! Welcome to the show!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  9. #9
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBabyBadger View Post
    If you go COYOTE, don't forget the install kit comes with 2 pages of items you still need to buy so plan to spend another $2-3K.
    To be fair, a whole bunch of the parts on that list are required for any engine choice: Transmission, bell housing, clutch, clutch fork, throw-out bearing, alternator, starter, fuel pump and multiple fuel line parts/connections, intake and air cleaner, oil pan... You get the idea.

    The point is a valid one though. The final price for any engine choice needs to include everything, and it can certainly add up.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-21-2018 at 02:23 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  10. #10
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    To be fair, a whole bunch of the parts on that list are required for any engine choice: Transmission, bell housing, clutch, clutch fork, throw-out bearing, alternator, starter, fuel pump and multiple fuel line parts/connections, intake and air cleaner, oil pan... You get the idea.

    The point is a valid one though. The final price for any engine choice needs to include everything, and it can certainly add up.
    Agreed and I wasn't trying to insinuate FFR misleads you, but they don't warn you of the extra items, and it's a LONG list. Anyone considering a budget should be made aware. Just my 2 cents, so he has all the information to decide properly.
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  11. #11

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    I am a first time builder and went with the bass kit. If I was to do it again I would go with a complete kit without question. The amount of time spent going to the hardware store for bolts, nuts etc... is time consuming and does add up. Many builders told me the same thing but thought I knew better.

  12. #12
    Senior Member KDubU's Avatar
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    Welcome! My recommendation is go with the complete kit as I think it makes most sense. Unless of course you have a really nice donor already, then the base would be a good choice.
    Kyle

    Complete Kit pickup 09/05/2015, 351w, QF680, 3.55, 3-Link, 15" Halibrands with MT's, Painted Viking blue with Wimbledon white stripes on 03/15/2017. Sold in 08/2018 and totally regret it.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Hacksaw84's Avatar
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    I am working on a base kit with a bunch of options but I would recommend the complete kit unless the budget is your number one priority. Tracking down and cleaning parts eats time and can add frustration. Even though mine is a base kit I didn't buy an actual donor, its all piece parts. Mainly b/c I am doing a coyote and the newer IRS.

    #1 Piece of advice is to read through several build threads. The info might be overwhelming and not make sense at the time but its a great start. Edward (from above) has an excellent one.
    #2 Go to some event where you can see lots of cobras at once. The London Cobra show is coming up. I also toured FFR and talked to Tony Z, that was helpful.
    #3 Wait for black Friday. Usually this is Factory Five's best sale. Saved me a bunch. In the mean time try and figure out exactly what you want. What engine/trans? What type of rear (4 link, 3 link, or IRS) Power Steering? 1 or 2 roll bars? There are a lot of options (especially if you are going base kit)
    #4 If you do go the donor route buy the digital manual and pre-read the build process (also good for a non donor).

    Also, when you place your order its actually only a $1000 deposit. You can still modify the options (within reason). I had not figured everything out when I placed my order.

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