BluePrint Engines

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 39 of 39

Thread: Rounded off my brass drain plug in Radiator

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like

    Rounded off my brass drain plug in Radiator

    Blah....

    I put sealant on the brass plug at the bottom of my radiator (and must have thought that the world would end if one drop ever escaped by this plug). Live and learn.

    I cannot get this thing loose! Now I've stripped it into an ugly circle.

    Any tips to get this thing loose from you guys who have been working on car much longer than myself? I've tried 12pt wrenches (not soon enough though) and the latest try was with vice grips. No luck. This sealant is the same one I used on the head bolts. Permatex thread sealant.

    I've thought of cutting a groove in it to get a screw driver in there. But with the soft metal I'm not sure that it would work. Looking like my only option right now.

    Thanks,

    2018-05-16_08-33-59 by D. R., on Flickr
    Last edited by DadofThree; 05-17-2018 at 10:45 AM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    try heating up the aluminum with a torch lightly then trying it with visegrips.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Placitas, NM
    Posts
    1,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    Try a small pipe wrench or get a set of these.
    http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...FYiQaQodGv8BSA

    They have 6 sharp teeth that will cut into the part your trying to remove.
    I have a set of them that I had to use once, works very well.
    Shop around, prices vary. Not sure if Harbor Freight sells them too.

  4. #4
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,003
    Post Thanks / Like
    Pipe wrench.

    Jeff

  5. #5
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    North Bay, California
    Posts
    302
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just use a set of vice grips... it "shouldn't" be wrenched down that tightly. It's brass...
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2014 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    thanks for the replies. I'll give some of them a shot tonight.


    Quote Originally Posted by TheBabyBadger View Post
    it "shouldn't" be wrenched down that tightly. It's brass...
    I learn the hard way
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  7. #7
    Master Builder
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    724
    Post Thanks / Like
    Leave it and drain rad by removing lower rad hose.

  8. #8
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    2,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    As a machinist I spent years removing broken bolts and pipe plugs after mechanics mutilated them. What was often a tough extraction became extremely difficult to impossible because they either didn't know how to tackle the job and just forced their way through or didn't take the time to do it right and made matters worse. So do yourself a favor and take it to a machine shop and have a machinist remove it before the job gets prohibitively expensive.

    Now if you just can't leave it alone then I'll give you some tips to making this a success. Before you further damage what's left of the hex head take the time to carefully drill a small hole (say .070" or so) in the exact center and as straight as possible. Yes now that the head is mutilated that will be difficult but it has to be in the center. What you are doing is setting yourself up to drill it out with a tap drill if your other attempts are unsuccessful. I long ago lost count of how many mechanics drilled a hole off center attempting to use an easy out and when that didn't work wanted me to fix it for them. To find the center I sometimes have to select a nut slightly larger than the plug and lay it over the damaged part to visually center it. From there you can use a transfer punch to make a ***** mark in the center of the glob you have left.

    I'll leave you with two keys to making this work: 1. finding a tool that will securely grip what's left of the hex head. That may require you to file or grind flats on the part protruding to get a tool like a vice grip to securely hold it. 2. apply 500F or more heat (more is usually better as long as you don't apply so much you damage things) to the bung area only as quickly as you can. This will do two things; expand the bung making the fitting looser and breakdown the sealer. You want to minimize the heat transferred to the plug as it will expand and make the fitting tighter. The best tool for this is a small tip on an oxy-actelyene torch as you can quickly heat the bung and focus the heat on the bung and not the plug. You want to quickly heat the bung and attempt to turn the plug right away before it starts to expand. Once the plug gets hot it's too late and you have to let the area cool before trying again. If all you have is a propane torch from Chepo Depot then your best bet is thermal cycle the area several times. Heat it to 500F or more and then let it cool before repeating. And only attempt to turn the plug once everything cools. The two metals expand at different rates and repeating this will usually loosen the connection. A water soaked rag will help to cool the are faster.

    If unsuccessful then it's time to drill out the plug and at that point you will be glad you took my advice on drilling a pilot hole while you could still mark the center.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by first time builder View Post
    Leave it and drain rad by removing lower rad hose.
    I've been doing that. Not a fan.



    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    As a machinist I spent years removing broken bolts and pipe plugs after mechanics mutilated them. What was often a tough extraction became extremely difficult to impossible because they either didn't know how to tackle the job and just forced their way through or didn't take the time to do it right and made matters worse. So do yourself a favor and take it to a machine shop and have a machinist remove it before the job gets prohibitively expensive.

    Now if you just can't leave it alone then I'll give you some tips to making this a success. Before you further damage what's left of the hex head take the time to carefully drill a small hole (say .070" or so) in the exact center and as straight as possible. Yes now that the head is mutilated that will be difficult but it has to be in the center. What you are doing is setting yourself up to drill it out with a tap drill if your other attempts are unsuccessful. I long ago lost count of how many mechanics drilled a hole off center attempting to use an easy out and when that didn't work wanted me to fix it for them. To find the center I sometimes have to select a nut slightly larger than the plug and lay it over the damaged part to visually center it. From there you can use a transfer punch to make a ***** mark in the center of the glob you have left.

    I'll leave you with two keys to making this work: 1. finding a tool that will securely grip what's left of the hex head. That may require you to file or grind flats on the part protruding to get a tool like a vice grip to securely hold it. 2. apply 500F or more heat (more is usually better as long as you don't apply so much you damage things) to the bung area only as quickly as you can. This will do two things; expand the bung making the fitting looser and breakdown the sealer. You want to minimize the heat transferred to the plug as it will expand and make the fitting tighter. The best tool for this is a small tip on an oxy-actelyene torch as you can quickly heat the bung and focus the heat on the bung and not the plug. You want to quickly heat the bung and attempt to turn the plug right away before it starts to expand. Once the plug gets hot it's too late and you have to let the area cool before trying again. If all you have is a propane torch from Chepo Depot then your best bet is thermal cycle the area several times. Heat it to 500F or more and then let it cool before repeating. And only attempt to turn the plug once everything cools. The two metals expand at different rates and repeating this will usually loosen the connection. A water soaked rag will help to cool the are faster.

    If unsuccessful then it's time to drill out the plug and at that point you will be glad you took my advice on drilling a pilot hole while you could still mark the center.

    Thanks for the write up. I'll give it a shot.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  10. #10

    Moderator
    RoadRacer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Manor, TX
    Posts
    2,235
    Post Thanks / Like
    ..and then use something like ARP thread sealer, which doesnt set? That's what I use on almost everything.

    https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-9904/10002/-1
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Posts
    405
    Post Thanks / Like
    Another alternative if you dont want to fight the plug........I do not have a drain port in my radiator, so I use a coupler in the lower radiator hose that is similar to this:

    https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performa...51155/10002/-1

    The one I have is a discontinued moroso, but it is the same concept. Has worked very well for 16 years.. Be sure to confirm your hose size.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Uh oh....

    2018-05-17_09-39-41 by D. R., on Flickr
    Last edited by DadofThree; 05-18-2018 at 08:23 AM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  13. #13
    Papa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    5,594
    Post Thanks / Like
    Perfect for an extractor bit now.
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  14. #14
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    2,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    That hole looks a bit bigger than .070" -- that's why the part snapped off. So take Papa's advice and try an easy out next but use a square easy out for soft metals and drive it in deep. You also still need to use heat. The easy out will either work or not -- if the tool won't hold don't keep turning it and hog out the hole. Like getting stuck in the snow if the wheels spin any at all don't keep spinning them or you make it worse. The next step will be to use a tap drill and if you hog out that hole you will drill off center and damage the aluminum threads.

  15. #15
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,837
    Post Thanks / Like
    If you have enough protruding out, you could try cleaning it up and JB Weld a nut onto the end. Let it set then use a wrench to remove it.

  16. #16

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    1,381
    Post Thanks / Like
    If it were me, I would stop right there. The odds of removing the rest of that plug and not damaging the radiator are pretty slim. I can just see you torquing on that easy-out and pulling the bung right out of the tank.

    Drill and tap that hole in the brass for a NPT and leave it at that. Tapping brass is not easy, either. be careful you don't crack it.

    If you really insist on getting that out of there, start drilling out one size up at a time. Eventually, you'll start getting in to the threads. Then you can start attacking the sealant with some solvent.
    .boB "Iron Man"
    NASA Rocky Mountain, TTU #42, HPDE Instructor
    BDR 1642: Coyote, 6 Speed Auto, Edelbrock Supercharger
    Member: www.MileHiCobraClub.com
    www.RacingTheExocet.com

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    165
    Post Thanks / Like
    didn't listen, you have to heat the aluminum and it will expand faster than the brass and you will be able to get the plug out. I have done it a lot.

  18. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    75
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by DadofThree View Post
    Uh oh....

    2018-05-17_09-39-41 by D. R., on Flickr
    That's a good thing! Now you found the center and already have a hole. Get the right size easy-out and your set.
    FFR MK4 Delivered 5/15/2018 - First Go Cart 10/5/2019: https://youtu.be/kPK89IgWJ0g
    2015 F150 Coyote 4x4 - 2017 Shelby GT350R - 1969 Mustang Convertible - 1962 Falcon Ranchero 302/T5/3.80s
    IG: @sandmans_ford_garage

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    After shearing the brass off, I'll be surprised if an easy out can remove it.

    Obviously I can't leave something well enough alone. I'll try the easyout first.

    If it doesn't work; If I were to drill this out and unable to save the aluminum threads, couldn't I just tap the hole in the alum bung one size up? It looks like there's enough aluminum there to do so.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  20. #20
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Head of St Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    956
    Post Thanks / Like
    Get a big square tip easy out that just fits in the hole. You can help it grip by taking a machine file and filing the hole square. I have actually filed a broken water jacket plug on a BMW diesel sailboat engine so that my 3/8 drive ratchet extension would fit. Heat the outside edge of the bung in one spot only, on the right side in the picture above, use a small hammer to just tap the end of the easy out while trying to turn it. The hammer taps act like an impact driver and helps break the sealant free.

    In my opinion, if the above method doesn't work, you have two options left.

    1) Take it to a machine shop and have them drill it out and tap the bung for a bigger plug. This is most likely easier for you but more expensive.

    2) Gradually drill the hole larger. Make sure you have a drill stop on your bit to stop it from catching on the brass and drilling a hole in the other side of the rad. Once you get real close to the threads stop drilling and switch to a small round edged machine file or a sanding drum on your Dremmel tool. Work carefully and slowly until you see sealant or the edge of the aluminum threads. I wear 1.5 magnification reading glasses when doing this kind of work. Soak the area with a solvent that will dissolve the sealant. If you don't know what solvent to use, paint a few spots of the sealant on a piece of scrap aluminum. Let it set up and try different solvents. I am willing to bet that grease and wax remover (mostly acetone) will be best. If not try everything from WD40 to paint remover. Let the area soak overnight.
    Next take a dental pick and start pulling the brass out of the threads in the bung. Re tap the bung to clean the threads and install a new plug. Use non hardening sealant or teflon tape.

    Hope This Helps

    Good Luck
    Norm

  21. #21
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    2,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    OK Dad, this will be the last piece of advice from me. Review my suggestion on post #14 and follow it. If you don't have a way to heat the bung don't bother as you won't get that brass plug out of there without lots of heat. Without heat I would jump to the next step and use the proper size tap drill for the NPT size plug. When you drill out the plug with the proper tap drill (assuming you drilled in the center) there will be nothing left in the hole except some brass in the aluminum threads. A tap drill is the minor thread diameter so it's like drilling in the center of a bolt and all that is left is the threads which would look like a Heli-Coil insert if you know what Heli-Coils are. Remember earlier I suggested you mark the center of the plug and drill a ~.070" pilot hole in case you had to drill out the plug? Using a dental pick you can carefully remove the brass that's left in the aluminum threads and then run a pipe tap through the hole to clean it up.

    As for drilling out to the next size, it's a good thought but totally depends on how big the bung is. The next size pipe thread may be too large to leave sufficient wall thickness. You would have to measure the bung and make that determination. But if you followed my recommendations you would have a high probability of success. If you really screw this up you will have to take it to a machine shop or well equipped welding shop to have a new bung welded in.

    Good luck.

  22. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks NAZ and NormB.

    NAZ, I really do appreciate your input and your help.

    SUCCESS!! It took one man to hold the radiator and me with a cheater on the 3/8" wrench. It never slipped, so I kept pulling on the wrench until it broke free. (I didn't have a square one available)

    20180518_123144 by D. R., on Flickr

    20180518_124020 by D. R., on Flickr

    20180518_124033 by D. R., on Flickr
    Last edited by DadofThree; 05-18-2018 at 12:01 PM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  23. #23
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Corona del Mar, CA
    Posts
    6,058
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    7
    Good Job!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  24. #24
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Vancouver Island BC Canada
    Posts
    1,877
    Post Thanks / Like
    That was lucky..what a PIA though..sheesh..

    My Campion boat has a brass drain plug on the transom, for draining the bilge. I've never used a sealant on it, and it never leaks, so probably best to skip it all together on the new plug.

  25. #25
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Head of St Margarets Bay, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    956
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well done!

  26. #26
    Papa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Parker, CO
    Posts
    5,594
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good work! Now flush all those shavings out of the radiator before hooking it back up to your engine!

    Dave
    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
    (Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)

    Delivered: 6/17/2017
    First Start: 12/30/2017
    Completed: 12/7/2019
    Legal: 1/30/2020

    Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
    Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
    Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread

  27. #27
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Myrtle Beach, SC
    Posts
    2,108
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nicely done Dave!! I was watching with interest, as you have some similar but competing suggestions coming at you!

    Congratulations on getting it taken care of. It kind of reminds me of your whole build frankly. You have encountered a number of struggles at various points in the build, sometimes with, and sometimes without advice form the forum. Either way, you worked your way through the problem, and kept going!

    Awesome. The Hot Rod Power Tour will be a piece of cake for you now! Keep up the great work!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  28. #28
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,837
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice work Dave! Those little setbacks can be aggravating, but makes the end result even more satisfying!

  29. #29
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Jax Beach, FL
    Posts
    2,103
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good job. The fun meter usually goes pretty low on the scale when something snaps off. I am glad you were able to recover.

    OK, time to tell on yourself. What tool were you using when it rounded off?

  30. #30
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    OK, time to tell on yourself. What tool were you using when it rounded off?
    Open end wrench.

    I looked for a plastic one to take its place but ended up with a brass one again. I just found a better fitting to use that I remembered seeing laying around.

    20180518_182028 by D. R., on Flickr
    Last edited by DadofThree; 05-18-2018 at 05:30 PM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  31. #31
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Blackberry Township, IL
    Posts
    2,653
    Post Thanks / Like
    Good job.... and good on you for not letting it beat you.

    And with that drain fitting, you'll have this issue behind forever.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

  32. #32
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by WIS89 View Post
    It kind of reminds me of your whole build frankly.
    Thanks Steve. This comment cracked me up because it's so true!

    I was just thinking, as putting on the radiator, that my next build (if the DW allows it) would actually be much quicker. I've built this car three times already! I keep saying to friends that first I build it the wrong way, then a better way, then the right way. The next build will be quicker because it will be equivalent to a Fourth Build!

    Okay, gotta get back down stairs.
    Dave

  33. #33
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Myrtle Beach, SC
    Posts
    2,108
    Post Thanks / Like
    Dave-

    I am glad you laughed; I hoped that you would! I really like you analysis of this being your third build. I love it.

    In all seriousness, congratulations on not letting the setbacks get the best of you. I have enjoyed following along with your progress!

    Now, go finish up so you can make the power tour.

    Regards,

    Steve

  34. #34
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Medford, Oregon
    Posts
    753
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hurray!!!

    Dave, thanks for posting this thread I learned a ton from all the great advice you received. I share your sentiment and feel like I am building my car three times because I have to redo so many things. That's part of the fun.

    I am curious though, what kind on thread sealer/goo are you going to put on the new fitting? PTFE like the ARP? Anti seize compound?

    I am hoping NAZ and Norm B will chime in here...

    Mark
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  35. #35
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    2,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mark, there are true sealants and then there are things like Teflon tape which are't sealants at all and have no place in automotive use. There are as many opinions on what products to use as there are users of those products. Having worked with threaded fittings for many years I've done research on sealants and tried many with varying degrees of success. There are many good sealants on the market but for the last forty-some years my go-to pipe thread sealant continues to be Loctite PST or Loctite 5671 -- both are great for actually "sealing" tapered pipe threads and especially stainless threads which are notorious for galling. A few years ago I switched from the paste in a tube to their Quickstix applicators (look like large chapstick) which are easier to use a less messy. Both of these sealants have a mild anaerobic thread locking component which helps ensure your fittings stay tight but does not lock them in place like red thread locker -- you can still remove and reuse fittings.

    Many years ago I attended a presentation by Henkel, the parent company of Loctite. The technical guy did a presentation of many of their products and one was Loctite PST (Pipe Sealant with Teflon) and instantly sold me. He took a sch-40 1/2" pipe and cut across the tapered threads leaving a large groove in them.. Applied a short bead of PST and hand tightened a pipe cap -- no tools, no vice -- just by hand. The other end was threaded into a fixture he used to pressurize the pipe to several hundred PSI. The hand tightened damaged threaded joint held pressure. Now I'd NEVER believe that if I had not seen it with my own eyes. He gave out samples of several products and PST was one of them. I've been using it for four decades now and never ever had a problem sealing NPT fittings with this stuff.

  36. #36
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Eaton View Post
    Hurray!!!

    Dave, thanks for posting this thread I learned a ton from all the great advice you received. I share your sentiment and feel like I am building my car three times because I have to redo so many things. That's part of the fun.

    I am curious though, what kind on thread sealer/goo are you going to put on the new fitting? PTFE like the ARP? Anti seize compound?

    I am hoping NAZ and Norm B will chime in here...

    Mark
    Last time was thread sealant, and this time it's antisieze. I believe that I just wrenched down on it too tight last time. This time I threaded in by hand, then turned it with the wrench a half turn before calling it good. If it leaks, it's not a concern. I can fix it.

    20180519_132440 by D. R., on Flickr

    20180519_132452 by D. R., on Flickr

    20180519_132517 by D. R., on Flickr
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  37. #37
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Medford, Oregon
    Posts
    753
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Mark, there are true sealants and then there are things like Teflon tape which are't sealants at all and have no place in automotive use. There are as many opinions on what products to use as there are users of those products. Having worked with threaded fittings for many years I've done research on sealants and tried many with varying degrees of success. There are many good sealants on the market but for the last forty-some years my go-to pipe thread sealant continues to be Loctite PST or Loctite 5671 -- both are great for actually "sealing" tapered pipe threads and especially stainless threads which are notorious for galling. A few years ago I switched from the paste in a tube to their Quickstix applicators (look like large chapstick) which are easier to use a less messy. Both of these sealants have a mild anaerobic thread locking component which helps ensure your fittings stay tight but does not lock them in place like red thread locker -- you can still remove and reuse fittings.

    Many years ago I attended a presentation by Henkel, the parent company of Loctite. The technical guy did a presentation of many of their products and one was Loctite PST (Pipe Sealant with Teflon) and instantly sold me. He took a sch-40 1/2" pipe and cut across the tapered threads leaving a large groove in them.. Applied a short bead of PST and hand tightened a pipe cap -- no tools, no vice -- just by hand. The other end was threaded into a fixture he used to pressurize the pipe to several hundred PSI. The hand tightened damaged threaded joint held pressure. Now I'd NEVER believe that if I had not seen it with my own eyes. He gave out samples of several products and PST was one of them. I've been using it for four decades now and never ever had a problem sealing NPT fittings with this stuff.
    Thanks NAZ,

    So the loctite pst comes in the squeeze tube and the 5671 is the chapstick version. And you say to use them on all pipe fittings, meaning anything that carries fluid? Like my fuel lines and brake lines and hydraulic clutch lines? I have several "unions" in my brake lines which are double flare type. Should I put it on the tube nut threads?

    Thanks and I don't mean to hijack this thread,

    Mark
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  38. #38
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    "The High Country", beautiful Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    2,443
    Post Thanks / Like
    Both come in Quickstix. Check out the Henkel website and review the PST products and their intended uses. The PST works for most chemicals used in automotive but DO NOT use any sealer on inverted flare brake fittings -- they are designed to be assembled without sealant. Use thread sealer on tapered threads and straight threads that screw into water jackets (head bolts, water pump bolts, etc.).

  39. #39
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Medford, Oregon
    Posts
    753
    Post Thanks / Like
    Got it, thanks
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Breeze

Visit our community sponsor