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Thread: Upper Radiator Hose, Coyote

  1. #1
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    Upper Radiator Hose, Coyote

    I was plumbing my FFR radiator to my Coyote engine using the supplied stainless flex hose, adapters, clamps, etc.
    Where the upper hose connects to the engine, the plastic neck on the engine has no barb. I am able to get a good fit with the hose and a clamp, but I can just see this thing blowing off when things get hot and under pressure.

    Any advise or ideas on keeping the hose from unseating itself.

    Second issue, I need a part number or source for the glove box door finger handle. The door fit is too snug to open it with something to pull on.

    Thanks for any help.
    Last edited by Railroad; 06-01-2018 at 07:28 PM.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    If you purchased the controls pack with your Coyote, there should be an upper rad hose included. It used to be included years ago. If not, purchase an upper rad hose from Ford. Cut the hose, using the end that attached to the water pump/thermostat outlet. Use the FFR supplied SS flex hose and adapters clamps to make the transition from the Ford rad hose to your radiator.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Barrel's Avatar
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    I received the upper radiator hose with the control pack as Dave has mentioned, (way back in 2011). If you have to purchase one you will find that the end that attaches to the water pump/thermostat outlet is keyed, and thus orientated for the Mustang. It is a"plastic" fitting and will still seal the connection without the key. I just ground the plastic key down so the the hose could then be rotated through 360 degrees at the water pump/thermostat outlet and orientated to the "33 radiator. No need to use the SS flex hose and it looks very neat . If you PM me I will be happy to forward you some photographs through an email. I can no longer post photos on the forums with photo bucket.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Barrel's Avatar
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    Sorry Railroad. I missed the fact that you are building a roadster and not a '33 Hot Rod. Perhaps it may still be of interest any way but I apologise for this mistake.

  5. #5

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    Heres is how I do them. I also cut the key off of the ford coupler. Pretty sure I made all this with what was supplied with the Coyote package and the FFR supplied hose.







  6. #6
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    If you are using a MOROSO (or equivalent) or stock FORD Mustang burp tank you can use a stock FORD hose with the quick coupler.

    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  7. #7
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    Thanks to all for the help. Mikes picture and encouragement to recheck the Coyote parts box got me straightened out. I had the hose with connector as Mike. It is good to have someone keep me from messing up.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    Heres is how I do them. I also cut the key off of the ford coupler. Pretty sure I made all this with what was supplied with the Coyote package and the FFR supplied hose.

    Cutting to key to rotate the coupler? Good idea!

  9. #9
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    I ran up to the barn and put my hands on the hose/connector to make sure I had it. I did not look into the key and notch system. I understand how rotation helps orient the hose. Thanks again guys.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

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