Headers for Chevy 383

[MBB Larry]

I know it has been asked in years past, but maybe a new Vendor?? I am ordering my Kit and am looking for Headers with a Blueprint 383
and Dual Exhaust in my 33. Seems that the heat is the issue with appearance.

[reckerd]

I am trying to figure out the headers for my 383 as well. I bought the Summit G9005 headers and they are so close to fitting but just a tad bit back on the passenger side.
IMG_1975.jpgIMG_1974.jpg It is also right above the round frame. I am starting to think I am going to have to have them custom built.

[NAZ]

Have y'all tried the shorty headers recommended by FFR? Summit Racing SUM-G9005 or Flowtech 11102 is what's listed in the SBC installation supplement available on the FFR website "Parts" section under "Instructions" in the 33 Hot Rod table.

I had to make my own to exit out the side of the engine compartment as there is just not enough room to install adequate headers for my SBC. Can't remember for sure now but I think there's only enough room to snake 2.5" tubing through the chassis and I'm running 3.5" collectors and mufflers. And since I couldn't fit store-bought mufflers I had to make those as well.

[NAZ]

reckerd, I just reread my post above and realized that the headers in your photos are the recommended Summit headers. Wow, my bad. Summit has a great no fault return policy so you could exchange these for the other recommended header.

However, looking at your photos closer the headers look like they will work but you say they are too far to the rear and the comment about them being right above the "round frame" (assuming this is the 1.5" round tubing running from the firewall to the front???) but I don't see a conflict with the chassis in your photos. Seems you may have a few options before giving up on these. Can you make the exhaust pipe to the collector fit the way the headers are installed now? A tweak here or bump there? If not, will moving the engine forward a bit resolve the fitment issue? There is room to move the engine forward & aft a bit or even up some if needed. Can't go too much or you'll affect the driveshaft fitment. Will header flange spacers help relocate the header enough to make the connection? Do you really need custom headers or just a modified exhaust to collector pipe which is much less expensive? Or will shortening the collector or changing the angle help?

If you don't have the means to do this work yourself a muffler shop may be able to help. Many do custom exhaust systems and have experience with one-off systems. Having custom headers made is surely an option but can be an expensive proposition. You may want to brainstorm other ways to work your way out of the fitment problem before going the full custom header route. Perhaps I've given you some ideas or nudged you to think of another idea to try.

[MBB Larry]

Did you ever figure out your Header issues?? I just ordered my FF 33 Kit yesterday and Blueprint 383 Carburated. I also checked on Ceramic coating headers, which is about $300.

[GoDadGo]

Have you looked at the stuff offered by Sanderson?

https://www.sandersonheaders.com/san...category_id=26

https://www.sandersonheaders.com/san...category_id=26

They've got a lot of shorty headers that might work.

[TDSapp]

I am trying to figure out the headers for my 383 as well. I bought the Summit G9005 headers and they are so close to fitting but just a tad bit back on the passenger side.
IMG_1975.jpgIMG_1974.jpg It is also right above the round frame. I am starting to think I am going to have to have them custom built.

Reckerd,

I thought the same think when putting in the FFR suggested shorty headers in. The collector seems to be right over one of the frame members. But low and behold the part that FFR sends to connect to the header not only drops it down but has a twist in it too and moved it right around that part of the frame. Here is a picture of mine and you can just see the part connected to the collector.

Did you ever figure out your Header issues?? I just ordered my FF 33 Kit yesterday and Blueprint 383 Carburated. I also checked on Ceramic coating headers, which is about $300.

Larry,

One warning on getting the ceramic coated headers with a new motor. Summit Racing, and\or the company that supplies them, will not cover the headers if used for breaking in a motor. Since during that initial tuning the headers can get very hot, like cherry red, it can ruin the ceramic coating. I bought the same ones from Summit but they are only painted, which burns off during the first few runs. They cost me $119.00, and I figured after I get the motor broke in I could have them ceramic coated.

[JimLev]

Pretty sure you mean ceramic coated, not powder coated which will also burn off.

[TDSapp]

Pretty sure you mean ceramic coated, not powder coated which will also burn off.

Whoops... Correct.... Ceramic coated.

[NAZ]

Tim makes a good point -- if your timing is retarded some when you first start the engine it can burn the coating before you can even set the timing correctly. When retarded the fuel charge is still burning when the exhaust valve opens and concentrates a lot of heat into the headers. If you're running a conventional ignition system (not a CD system like MSD and others make) you can static time the ignition before starting the engine and avoid this issue.

Here’s the drill (remember, this will NOT work with an MSD CD system): Turn the engine over until #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke and the timing pointer is set to whatever base timing your engine builder suggests. The easiest way to find the compression stroke is to pull the plug and plug the hole with your finger while intermittently jogging the engine over. When your finger is blown out of the hole you’re on the compression stroke.
· Pull the #1 plug wire and attach it to a plug and ground the housing of the plug. Us old timers will usually use a coil wire for this but if this is new to you it’s easier to use a plug.
· Turn on the ignition (to the run position -- you're not starting the engine).
· Loosen the distributor and rotate it retarded a bit (clockwise as viewed from the top) then slowly rotate it counter clockwise until you get a spark on the plug.
· Tighten the distributor and the engine is static timed. You will check the timing with a light once you fire the engine and adjust as necessary. Remember to pull & plug the vacuum advance hose when adjusting base timing.