Thought I would ask here after watching videos on youtube and reading blogs, but still cant find the answer.
First, this is not for the 818, but my sons WRX. We did a complete respray and I am done with the wet sanding ( 1200,1500,2K ) and moved to the DA polisher.
I shot a Chromabase paint with Nason clear. After using a orange pad and M105, I followed with a black pad and M205.
The shine is just not there ? no where near as shiny as before we sanded it.
I have not thrown paint since 2002 on the Cobra using a siphon feed, I used a HVLP on this one.
I dont recall having this much trouble the last time, is there something I am missing ?
these pics are before wet sanding ( front view ) and the truck after sanding/polishing
Too much reducer
Too fast of a reducer
Too much hardner
Not enough wet sanding
Tried to cut the clear too soon
Without knowing how you mixed it, it's kind of a crap shoot. I run a collision repair facility in Northern CA and I've never heard of Nason Paint... so it's probably not the best clear to being with. Let us know if you figure it out!
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Too much reducer
Too fast of a reducer
Too much hardner
Not enough wet sanding
Tried to cut the clear too soon
Without knowing how you mixed it, it's kind of a crap shoot. I run a collision repair facility in Northern CA and I've never heard of Nason Paint... so it's probably not the best clear to being with. Let us know if you figure it out!
Reduced 4-1 with Hi-temp 2k activator
Keep sanding ? haven't cut through the clear yet ( no color on wipe )
It has been 48 + hours since we finished ( 8 pm sat night )
My only thought is the hi-temp activator was purchased because the forecast had us in the mid / upper 80s - then it rained and was about 70 when we put it on.
Thought I would ask here after watching videos on youtube and reading blogs, but still cant find the answer.
First, this is not for the 818, but my sons WRX. We did a complete respray and I am done with the wet sanding ( 1200,1500,2K ) and moved to the DA polisher.
I shot a Chromabase paint with Nason clear. After using a orange pad and M105, I followed with a black pad and M205.
The shine is just not there ? no where near as shiny as before we sanded it.
I have not thrown paint since 2002 on the Cobra using a siphon feed, I used a HVLP on this one.
I dont recall having this much trouble the last time, is there something I am missing ?
these pics are before wet sanding ( front view ) and the truck after sanding/polishing
Any advise form the pros ?
Thanks
"E"
Try the fingernail trick? Take one of your fingernails, tap on the clear coat, if it can make some sort of impression, the top coat is not hard/ cured.
When these two staged paints came out they did not have the sanding grit down pat, like they have it today, so maybe the 2K paper is too rough on this type of clear. Try a spot with 3K grit and then hit it with the buffer.
Of course YMMV
Ron
"May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"
Try the fingernail trick? Take one of your fingernails, tap on the clear coat, if it can make some sort of impression, the top coat is not hard/ cured.
When these two staged paints came out they did not have the sanding grit down pat, like they have it today, so maybe the 2K paper is too rough on this type of clear. Try a spot with 3K grit and then hit it with the buffer.
Of course YMMV
Ron
Ron,
Tapping leaves no mark, however I did leave an impression when I did push into it. Will hunt down some 3K and try in the morning.
I stopped by the shop that restored my coworkers 65 Fastback Stang. He asked step by step questions, and came to the conclusion.
He has done body/paint since the 60s - he said " the foam pads are not heating the new clear coat - you gotta use a wool pad ".
I stopped and got a 3m pad and WOW - what a difference.
I checked the surface temp with a laser thermo and saw a 20deg difference.
Here is what I got as a result - the left is what I started with, the right sided is done with M105, then finished with M205 and a black pad.
This is a daily driver, so I dont mind a couple of blemishes.
I just finished up this one a couple of weeks ago (how 'bout them legs ):
Same as I do them all---Five Star Clear, cut with 1500 then 2000, Wizards Mystic Cut compound using a rotary buffer with a blended wool pan @ 1,800-2,000 RPM.
I picked up a polisher from HF, figured I didn't need a real expensive one if I only use it every few years.
I knocked down the peel with 1200,1500,2K - ( my hands are spent ) - I used the Meguires M105 with the wool pad at 1000, then 1500 rpms.
Finished with the Black pad and M205.
Happy with what I got out of it.
Now I see why these "Paint Correction" shops charge what they do -
^Yes, it's a very time consuming process but the results are always outstanding. I used detailing on the side to put a down payment on our first home. Could easily spend 25-30 hours on a car in rough shape.