BluePrint Engines

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: painting advice

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    105
    Post Thanks / Like

    painting advice

    Thought I would ask here after watching videos on youtube and reading blogs, but still cant find the answer.
    First, this is not for the 818, but my sons WRX. We did a complete respray and I am done with the wet sanding ( 1200,1500,2K ) and moved to the DA polisher.
    I shot a Chromabase paint with Nason clear. After using a orange pad and M105, I followed with a black pad and M205.
    The shine is just not there ? no where near as shiny as before we sanded it.

    I have not thrown paint since 2002 on the Cobra using a siphon feed, I used a HVLP on this one.
    I dont recall having this much trouble the last time, is there something I am missing ?

    these pics are before wet sanding ( front view ) and the truck after sanding/polishing

    Any advise form the pros ?

    Thanks
    "E"
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Senior Member TheBabyBadger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    North Bay, California
    Posts
    306
    Post Thanks / Like
    Could be several things:

    Too much reducer
    Too fast of a reducer
    Too much hardner
    Not enough wet sanding
    Tried to cut the clear too soon

    Without knowing how you mixed it, it's kind of a crap shoot. I run a collision repair facility in Northern CA and I've never heard of Nason Paint... so it's probably not the best clear to being with. Let us know if you figure it out!
    Gen3 Coupe - SOLD Arrival: 6/21/18 SOLD: 4/12/2019
    Current Vehicle: 2014 SRT Viper (modded to the moon), 2022 TRX, 2022 RS6, E46 LS3 M3
    Current Projects: Superlite/RCR GTR ***FOR SALE***
    @madd_wrapps on IG or www.maddwrapps.com

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    105
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBabyBadger View Post
    Could be several things:

    Too much reducer
    Too fast of a reducer
    Too much hardner
    Not enough wet sanding
    Tried to cut the clear too soon

    Without knowing how you mixed it, it's kind of a crap shoot. I run a collision repair facility in Northern CA and I've never heard of Nason Paint... so it's probably not the best clear to being with. Let us know if you figure it out!


    http://products.axaltacs.com/dcat/us...ct/498-00.html

    Reduced 4-1 with Hi-temp 2k activator
    Keep sanding ? haven't cut through the clear yet ( no color on wipe )
    It has been 48 + hours since we finished ( 8 pm sat night )

    My only thought is the hi-temp activator was purchased because the forecast had us in the mid / upper 80s - then it rained and was about 70 when we put it on.

    Thanks for the reply
    Best wishes.
    "E"

  4. #4
    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Leesburg, VA
    Posts
    1,624
    Post Thanks / Like
    You may want to wait about a week to let the clear coat fully cure.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Presto51's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Catonsville, Maryland
    Posts
    578
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Innkeepr View Post
    Thought I would ask here after watching videos on youtube and reading blogs, but still cant find the answer.
    First, this is not for the 818, but my sons WRX. We did a complete respray and I am done with the wet sanding ( 1200,1500,2K ) and moved to the DA polisher.
    I shot a Chromabase paint with Nason clear. After using a orange pad and M105, I followed with a black pad and M205.
    The shine is just not there ? no where near as shiny as before we sanded it.

    I have not thrown paint since 2002 on the Cobra using a siphon feed, I used a HVLP on this one.
    I dont recall having this much trouble the last time, is there something I am missing ?

    these pics are before wet sanding ( front view ) and the truck after sanding/polishing

    Any advise form the pros ?

    Thanks
    "E"
    Try the fingernail trick? Take one of your fingernails, tap on the clear coat, if it can make some sort of impression, the top coat is not hard/ cured.

    When these two staged paints came out they did not have the sanding grit down pat, like they have it today, so maybe the 2K paper is too rough on this type of clear. Try a spot with 3K grit and then hit it with the buffer.

    Of course YMMV

    Ron
    "May you be in heaven a full half hour before the Devil knows you're dead"

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    105
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Presto51 View Post
    Try the fingernail trick? Take one of your fingernails, tap on the clear coat, if it can make some sort of impression, the top coat is not hard/ cured.

    When these two staged paints came out they did not have the sanding grit down pat, like they have it today, so maybe the 2K paper is too rough on this type of clear. Try a spot with 3K grit and then hit it with the buffer.

    Of course YMMV

    Ron
    Ron,

    Tapping leaves no mark, however I did leave an impression when I did push into it. Will hunt down some 3K and try in the morning.

    Thanks,
    "E"

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    105
    Post Thanks / Like
    Badger,

    I stopped by the shop that restored my coworkers 65 Fastback Stang. He asked step by step questions, and came to the conclusion.
    He has done body/paint since the 60s - he said " the foam pads are not heating the new clear coat - you gotta use a wool pad ".

    I stopped and got a 3m pad and WOW - what a difference.
    I checked the surface temp with a laser thermo and saw a 20deg difference.
    Here is what I got as a result - the left is what I started with, the right sided is done with M105, then finished with M205 and a black pad.
    This is a daily driver, so I dont mind a couple of blemishes.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,083
    Post Thanks / Like
    What machine, compound and speed are you using?

    I just finished up this one a couple of weeks ago (how 'bout them legs ):



    Same as I do them all---Five Star Clear, cut with 1500 then 2000, Wizards Mystic Cut compound using a rotary buffer with a blended wool pan @ 1,800-2,000 RPM.

    Good luck!

    Jeff

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    105
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nice legs Jeff ! lol

    I picked up a polisher from HF, figured I didn't need a real expensive one if I only use it every few years.
    I knocked down the peel with 1200,1500,2K - ( my hands are spent ) - I used the Meguires M105 with the wool pad at 1000, then 1500 rpms.
    Finished with the Black pad and M205.
    Happy with what I got out of it.
    Now I see why these "Paint Correction" shops charge what they do -

  10. #10
    Senior Member metros's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NoVA
    Posts
    1,064
    Post Thanks / Like
    ^Yes, it's a very time consuming process but the results are always outstanding. I used detailing on the side to put a down payment on our first home. Could easily spend 25-30 hours on a car in rough shape.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor