Received my kit early May and making some slow progress, been too excited to work on it to take time and post some pics. Anyway I will post my progress to date and hopefully keep this part up.
In Canada we need to order some (a lot) of the parts in a Canadian kit to allow us to bring over the border so I also had some of the parts earlyIMG_3181.jpg
Wanted to powder coat front end parts and powder coater didn't want anything to do with pieces(ball joints) having grease on them. found it easy enough to grind the welds and remove ball jointsAttachment 87532
received parts back from powder coating and started on front end, realized I had 2 drivers side lower control arms IMG_3453.jpg
Contacted FFR and they sent me 1 for passenger side, I removed ball joint and powder coated myself as this will fit in small oven I have. Happy with results and will now work on completing front end IMG_3474.jpg
getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in IMG_3430.JPG
seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?
getting ready to place firewall, a little hesitant as I want to make sure everything lines up with body. I was thinking of temporary putting main body in place but think I will need to at least put a couple of screws in IMG_3430.JPG
seems to be some talk of fitting problems but I think a lot might be old post, anybody have any input?
Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!! IMG_3430.JPG
Thanks AJT
I did get the body on temporary and fit to the firewall, I did need to shape passenger side of fire wall to get a good fit in the indentation of the body. All seems to be straight and balanced side to sideFirewall.JPGTemp body fit.JPG
The flange bearing for the steering comes through the firewall but is located against part of the frame, this is preventing the firewall from sitting flat. has anybody come up with a solution, I am probably powder coating firewall and think this bulge will show.Firewall flange bearing.JPG
The flange bearing for the steering comes through the firewall but is located against part of the frame, this is preventing the firewall from sitting flat. has anybody come up with a solution, I am probably powder coating firewall and think this bulge will show.Firewall flange bearing.JPG
Highly suggest you make sure the frame is level side to side and front to back. Set the bottom of the firewall (area between the two clamps that have the one with the orange tip, see picture) flush with the frame member at that location, make sure that bottom end is level as well. If you don't then you will be trimming (I used a belt sander) to "massage the top of the firewall to fit exactly the indentation on the body. This will also make sure that the bottom lip of the body on each side sits flush or just below the frame on each side of the firewall and the door openings. If I do it again I would have prefit the body and the firewall together per the Assembly Guide with the correct measurements which would have saved me a lot of fit problems before hand. I would also flush fit (no gaps around the doors) the fiberglass doors at the same time as well. FFR have made some changes which help this alignment based on some of the polder kits however some attention should be paid attention to when setting this up, this is in my eyes, the most critical part of the build as it sets up the rest of the body and parts. Have fun!!
PS> Clecos will be your best friend and WELL WORTH the investment!!! IMG_3430.JPG
If you do it that way the cowl will not be level, The body mold is not symmetric and the PS of the body needs lifted 1/4 off of the
chassis to make up for that. Set a 4' level centered on the cowl just behind the firewall with blocks under each end to clear the
rounded body shape and check it out. A lot of the 33's when done look wonky from the front because of that issue. You can do
a search about notching the bottom of the firewall and find a few threads on this detail. Once you have the cowl/body level and
the chassis level then you can notch and fit the firewall up against the body with a belt sander etc. That plus plumbing the radiator
properly will hide/prevent the wonky front view on the 33.
If you do it that way the cowl will not be level, The body mold is not symmetric and the PS of the body needs lifted 1/4 off of the
chassis to make up for that. Set a 4' level centered on the cowl just behind the firewall with blocks under each end to clear the
rounded body shape and check it out. A lot of the 33's when done look wonky from the front because of that issue. You can do
a search about notching the bottom of the firewall and find a few threads on this detail. Once you have the cowl/body level and
the chassis level then you can notch and fit the firewall up against the body with a belt sander etc. That plus plumbing the radiator
properly will hide/prevent the wonky front view on the 33.
Dale
Hey Dale, this is why I levelled the frame, then aligned the body to the frame and then made sure the body was nice and level across the top of the cowl otherwise it slopes from the passenger side to the drivers side when looking at it from the front of the car. it also helps to maintain the centerline of the car with the radiator grill. I will see it better in the next few days as I set my hood and under nose lip and align it to the radiator grill as well. Its a game but once all fit, the body work and fairing should go quickly. I would say this has been the hardest part of the car, aligning all the fiberglass components so they look right and are true to each other so you cant visually see that anything is off. Still love doing this even if its challenging as I know this will be my unique build!
Hey Dale, this is why I levelled the frame, then aligned the body to the frame and then made sure the body was nice and level across the top of the cowl otherwise it slopes from the passenger side to the drivers side when looking at it from the front of the car. it also helps to maintain the centerline of the car with the radiator grill. I will see it better in the next few days as I set my hood and under nose lip and align it to the radiator grill as well. Its a game but once all fit, the body work and fairing should go quickly. I would say this has been the hardest part of the car, aligning all the fiberglass components so they look right and are true to each other so you cant visually see that anything is off. Still love doing this even if its challenging as I know this will be my unique build!
Thanks guys
So from deciphering this if I level the frame and level the cowl I should be good on the front, I will look for 2 symmetrical points on the back end to also measure to or level to.
for the front drivers side I did need to replace the 8" line supplied with a longer one all I could get was a 20" so I added a loop and all worked out.
cable clutch system will be removed and replaced with master cylinder for hydraulic clutch slave so lots of room above pedal box
going to temp mount a reservoir so I can test the lines, once engine in and tin on back there will be minimal access to these lines. after engine in I will decide on a reservoir, I have seen a few 3 joined reservoir units.
with ever set up being a little different its not as easy as looking up a set size. seems pretty tight to go with a maximum 11" on back as per FFR. with the IRS spindle moves a lot closer to body when car lifted. I am pretty set on 10" with a 4 1/2" backspace.
The 6 piston front caliper also limits style of wheels to get clearance. still waiting on some feedback from US Mags (I did choose a Foose wheel but it would not clear the Wilwood 6 piston caliper)
I borrowed a friends winter wheels for a mustang to help figure out clearances and also made some wood wheels. Wood wheels really helped getting measurements
I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.
I have been struggling with the same issue for my setup with bike fenders and the IRS. Looks like 17" is the smallest that will fit over the 12.88" brakes. Been struggling with what the maximum backspace the rear wheels can have.
17" is the smallest rim size recommended by FFR. I ended up with 18" and can see how 17" would have been the tightest. I also have an IRS and front floating fenders. You will need to shim the fenders in the front accordingly. I ended up with 18x10 in the back and 18x9 in the front and the floating fenders just fit over the tire in the front.
So the manual states that if you're using fenders the max for the rear is 11 inch width, 6 inch backspace and 315 tread. Ignoring for a moment that a 315 tire is over the max size for an 11 inch wide wheel, what's wrong with going with the 11 in width and 6 inch backspace numbers? Steve
It probably depends on which rear end you are using. I have the 2015 IRS, and a 6" backspace would put the inner rim of the wheel into the bodywork for sure, and maybe into the chassis. I am running 305/35-20 tires on 10" wide wheels with a 4" backspace.
If the IRS is so different wonder why they don't have numbers in the appendix for that option.... Something to bug them about at the build class
I hadn't seen that calculator before, good find.
Looking at the tire specification page for the BFG Comp 2 A/S that I bought, a rim width range of 10-12.5" is shown. https://www.discounttiredirect.com/b...-2-a-s/p/29866 Granted, it's at the bottom of the range - but if the tire manufacturer is good with it then so am I. I also like the way it looks.
Also, FWIW, the Build School is not affiliated with Factory Five Racing. That's good, in that they can give you unbiased opinions about kit shortcomings and tips on alternate assembly methods not described in the build manual. Not so good is that they have no direct influence over the build manuals or product designs, although they do have a close working relationship with FFR that does lead to some cross-fertilization of ideas. I highly recommend going. It's well worth the time and expense IMHO.
with everyone having slightly different setups every little detail changes things
Seeing Keith go with a 10" rim 305 tire and 4" backspace makes me confident that a 10" rim 275 tire and 4 1/2" backspace will work.
with the IRS when car is lifted and suspension hanging the tire will come in closer to inside of wheelwell. As mentioned it would be nice if FFR put out specs for when setup includes IRS
Front has equal clearance for bicycle fenders, from measurement with tape measure backs will sit nicely with outside of fenders and clear inside. Will check when body on how much clearance from inside of wheel well, 10 will work not sure if the 11" would
Painted back side of firewall, floor boards and other parts with lizard skin. did 2 coats of sound barrier and 2 coats of heat barrier. found product excellent.
Ended up getting a painter to do the firewall after seeing results from my attempt with a spray bomb, highly recommended to get a professional finish on it unless you have spray equipment at homeFirewall install.JPGFirewall 2.JPG
CVOBill
MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater
Front grill installed, threw hood on to see the look front grill.JPG
With radiator installed I ran the hoses, as I am not installing a heater I assume I can just run a hose from water pump to intake manifold. heater hose 1.JPGHeater hose 2.JPG
Can anyone confirm this is good, I,ve seen some people loop the 2 contentions from the water pump and not sure if that was right.
Will need to do some fiberglass work on transmission tunnel, a lot taken out but with TKO 600 I do have room. With this I am just to say comfortable with room for 3 pedals